we are in process of removing alt on 89 carb.
how in the heck do you get this thing out?
we have all the bolts off, plugs off, etc but are not sure how this thing can get out.
it doesnt seem to be able to slide out through the top. any ideas/tips how?
do you have to take the axel off? if so how?
also another possibility is the alt bracket and slide out through wheel well area?
please give me some ideas
thanks!
on carbed accords you have to drop driver side axel to get some room to remove the alternator.
good luck droping axel.
Alex.
How do you drop it?
any tips/how to?
not sure how to get it off, we have the tire off, brake caliper moved out of way.....now what?
I had to remove my drive shaft to get mine out. Later I found out some ppl were able to remove it by taking it along the firewall to the passenger side But I had no suck luck. Luckily my driveshaft needed to be replaced anyways.
Here is howto do a driveshaft, no need to touch the caliper.
1. Break the Hubnut loose with car on ground. You need to remove the hubcap first. Use a 32mm socket and a breaker bar.
2. Jack up car and put it on a jackstand and remove the wheel.
3. Drain the transmission Oil.
4. Remove the damper fork pinch bolt at the top of the fork and the lower control arm bolt. The damper fork is what the driveshaft goes through, it holds the spring assembly to the lower control arm.
5. Remove the lower ball joint nut, it is on the outside bottom of the lower control arm, there should be a cotter pin through it, replace the pin when it is all over (very important). Then use a hammer to remove the lower control arm from the knuckle.
6. Pry out the knucle off the end of the driveshaft.
7. DO NOT PULL ON THE DRIVESHAFT! or it will be fucked. Pry it out from the tranny with a large screwdriver.
8. Reassembly is reverse. be sure to use a torque wrench. The upper fork bolt is 32 ft/lbs, the lower fork bolt is 47 ft/lbs, the lower ball joint is 39 ft/lbs and the hubnut is like 120 ft/lbs (do that withe the wheel on, hubcap off, on the ground. Top off the tranny fluid.
if you have any questions consult this manual: http://www.pauldesign.ru it has pictures.
Last edited by k-roy; 12-22-2003 at 09:05 PM.
------------------
actually he doesn't have to remove it from the tranny.
all he has to do is remove it from the wheel hub and and move it to the side.
i have done it million times.
Alex.
on mine I've been able to jack up the car to the point where I can slide it out from underneath, between the axle and the firewall I think it was. It's just that you need to elevate the car to the point where the axle is at an angle where the clearance becomes optimum, it's kind of an exact fit, you may have to play with it.
Otherwise you gotta do what Honda says and take out the damn axle which isn't too hard but just increases your chances of breaking something.
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
I tried that first POS, with no luck.
------------------
u don't have to remove the axle u can just unbolt the master cylinder and slide it over towards the passenger side the alternator will slide right out through the top...
4 is more
me
*quote* - RustyHo88
if you want to leave the car intact, you can simply loosen those motor mounts, and raise the engine a few cm. worked for me.
but arent there some "hard lines" attached to the master cylinder? and youre sure it will slide out on a carbed car?
we have tried the slide firewall meathod and the jack up the car method with no luck.
we started to take the axel off but had to stop and will have to re-convenine later.
You can remove it from the top. You will have to remove a ton of carb stuff from the intake manifold, and also lift the engine up a few inches, but it is do-able. Start by removing and tagging everything on the drivers side of the intake manifold. then, put a jackstand underneath the engine of the car. loosen the drivers side motor mount bolts just a little bit, and start lifting the engine with the jack. We only had to lift the engine 1-2 inches to get the alt out. Although I must say, sliding it along the firewall only took me 20 mins the next time, while lifting it out from the top took me a couple of hours. Good luck.
the hard lines on the master cylinder allow you to slide it over and the only thing i had to take off was the air cleaner i have a carbed and i have done it twice with two different cars it isn't that hard and i think it beats taking out the axle..
4 is more
me
*quote* - RustyHo88
if you want to leave the car intact, you can simply loosen those motor mounts, and raise the engine a few cm. worked for me.
It's not that hard. Remove the air cleaner so you can see. Remove bolt from heater hose bracket on firewall. Now take it out from passenger side, under the heater hoses. Done it personally (I've got a DX with AT and AC.); search the archives if you don't believe it.
This is how we did it. It was a pain in the butt but it did come out.Originally Posted by joebeets
Thanks alot to everyone that replied.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks