High Output Alternator

**DeathRat** · 05-21-2004, 10:11 PM

Okay now that I have my neon & LEDs, I've noticed after about an hour at night, that my "Charging" light comes on now.

I've tested the whole system during the day & all is fine. I'm even running a truck battery for more back up power. The question I have is this >>>>>> Is there a direct bolt on higher output Alternator for the A20A1????

With all my LEDs, Neon & High Wattage bulbs.....I'm sucking the alternator dry. It's presently the stock 65Amp, which is fine during the day (lights are off). I've looked into a custom built & custom mounted, but that's like $500 CAN!!!!! :thumbdown What OTHER choices do I have? Can I run a different Honda Alternator from another model & year?

**smufguy** · 05-21-2004, 10:19 PM

well if u would have hit the search you would have gotten your question answered, even before u asked it. Well anyway, lemme fill you in. Green Mean alternators are high output alternators made to replace the stock alt. THe Mean Green alts put out upwards of 100 amps and they are about $300 to $400 USDM.

You can also get a 4th gen accord alternator which is 80 amps, i have this alternator, and drop it in. The lower bracket is perfect fit, but the tilt of the alternator is akward so the top bracket wont line up and hence u gotta make it fit. Besides, you need a different belt for this mod with the 4th gen alt.

**DeathRat** · 05-22-2004, 06:45 AM

Originally Posted by smufguy

well if u would have hit the search you would have gotten your question answered, even before u asked it. Well anyway, lemme fill you in. Green Mean alternators are high output alternators made to replace the stock alt. THe Mean Green alts put out upwards of 100 amps and they are about $300 to $400 USDM.

You can also get a 4th gen accord alternator which is 80 amps, i have this alternator, and drop it in. The lower bracket is perfect fit, but the tilt of the alternator is akward so the top bracket wont line up and hence u gotta make it fit. Besides, you need a different belt for this mod with the 4th gen alt.

The aftermarket Alts, I was already aware of...hence the $500 CAN up here!

I was looking for more info on brackets though (maybe I should have refrased my question better, sorry) & thanx for that info.

I'm looking for about 105Amps MIN, perfer about 120Amps. This way, all my electrical needs can be met (present & future).

I can get aftermarket Alts made up here. The problem arises with the "STATOR" & the "MOUNTING". The Stators I can get are larger than the stock Honda ones & the Honda stock case doesn't give much room in there. The mounting of a HO Alt is an entirely different issue. I rebuild my own alternators usually, but the custom fabricating of the brackets, I'm not so good at though.

**Bloodlust** · 05-22-2004, 07:46 AM

FYI Mean green alternators can be found at:

http://www.mean-green.com/products/alternator.html

I have one myself, my lights still dim but I havent fried it yet so thats a good sign.

**DeathRat** · 05-22-2004, 02:54 PM

Originally Posted by Bloodlust

FYI Mean green alternators can be found at:

http://www.mean-green.com/products/alternator.html

I have one myself, my lights still dim but I havent fried it yet so thats a good sign.

Thanx Bloodlust....BUT I'm looking more for Mounting Alternates, as I have mentioned in my second post.

**customandsound** · 05-22-2004, 04:43 PM

you can do what i did in my monte..... i mounted 1 in the stock place and i got a140 amp 1 wire gm mounted where the ac compress use to go ....i am thinking about doing it to my accord .... i started to mount the neon's on the interior and i still need to do the engine bay and the underside ...... now if i can figure how to hook a smoke machine up so it blow's under i will have some thing going

**Justin86** · 05-22-2004, 05:27 PM

you could get it built up at certain shops for cheaper

**AccordEpicenter** · 05-22-2004, 08:12 PM

i got a 140 amp rewound alt off one of the guys on ebay... it supported a 1250wrms system and neons with no dimming but itd have to be revved to 1500-2000rpm for full output, it puts out next to nothing below 1000rpms...

**Justin86** · 05-22-2004, 10:11 PM

yea anything better then stock. MY shit dims with just my HU and infinity speaks, it drives me crazy but it does look kind of cool cause they dim with the beat.

**DeathRat** · 05-22-2004, 11:28 PM

Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter

i got a 140 amp rewound alt off one of the guys on ebay... it supported a 1250wrms system and neons with no dimming but itd have to be revved to 1500-2000rpm for full output, it puts out next to nothing below 1000rpms...

Did it bolt straight in?
Any manufacturer on it?

**Elijah** · 05-23-2004, 12:04 AM

Talk to the guys at A1 starters and alternators. They have worked some magic for me before. We used to get them to do alot of customers alternators. When we upgraded things.

**smufguy** · 05-23-2004, 06:54 AM

I believe the secondary alternator in place of the AC compressor was already talked about. I wonder how an alternator would fit, without any mod or even line up to our stupid ac bracket, good thing i still have it. BUt its still more rotatinal equipments. I want an high output alt too.

**DeathRat** · 05-23-2004, 07:07 AM

Originally Posted by Elijah

Talk to the guys at A1 starters and alternators. They have worked some magic for me before. We used to get them to do alot of customers alternators. When we upgraded things.

I dealt with Cooper Bros. here on the South Side before as I trust their work & advice. The Alternator itself isn't the issue really, as I CAN make anyone work if had too. The Brackets are the REAL issue here though. If it was a RWD, I would just add another Alternator to the trans tail shaft as they do in Nascar & be done with it by now.

Looks like some $$$ is gonna have to be spent on R&D right away after all.....

**AccordEpicenter** · 05-23-2004, 08:30 AM

it was a stock alt that was rewound, so it was like replacing it with a stock alt. I cant remember the guys name on ebay... It worked well but put almost nothing out at less than 1000 rpms, and im sure 140amps was a cold value, warm itd prolly put out 120amps or so

**blahblahblah** · 06-30-2004, 11:17 AM

what did it do under 1000rpms? Atlest as much as stock right? ....I got a 3farad cap for my system and a Yellow top batt....But I have neons, modded fog lights, strobs, (in the works)2 Screens, and a PS2 to run......I dont have this in yet. Just making sure its all going to work right the 1st time.

**AccordEpicenter** · 06-30-2004, 01:42 PM

Umm it barely put out anything, so the battery light would come on if the car was left at idle with the lights on for a half hour or more... when youre rolling thru town even with the system drawing 100amps and your lights on including neons... nothing dimmed even with no caps at all... thats what we call good grounds and good cabling with sufficient alternator size

**HostileJava** · 06-30-2004, 01:58 PM

Other then audio systems and heavy duty Fog/Headlights you should not need to upgrade your charging systems to handle LED's/Neons/LCD's, or anything else of that nature, they draw very little current to begin with and really are negligable. If you are having problems with only these low current devices running then there is somthing wrong with your charging system.

**Ludi Mali** · 06-30-2004, 02:41 PM

not sure if you've done this yet, but it stopped my 1100wrms system from dimming my lights with just a diehard battery.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...c;f=5;t=007801

**DeathRat** · 06-30-2004, 06:16 PM

I have the problem after my H4's are on for more than a hour or so it seems. I've tried it with & without the LEDs & neon on too. My guess it's the H4's (55/100W) bulbs. I don't have any sort of problem during the day if the headlights are off at all either. I am using the stock wiring harness for the headlights at present, but that shouldn't effect the charging system. The Alternator just can't seem to keep up with the power the H4's are requiring it seems. :thumbdown

I'm still looking into other alternatives for the Stock 60/65Amp Alternator replacement too. I feel a mininum of 120Amps should be sufficient. I just need to find a way to mount a larger Amp Alternator in it stock Alternator's place though. The wiring harness, I can modify easy enough to make it work on ANY Alternator I choose. I need "Custom" Mounting Brackets!

PS: I'm already using a Battery from a Full Sized Ford Crown Victoria ALREADY!

**HostileJava** · 06-30-2004, 08:05 PM

Well even if there on hibeam all the time your only drawing about 14 more amps then stock so if you can make that difference up some how you should be good.

**DeathRat** · 07-01-2004, 08:59 AM

Originally Posted by HostileJava

Well even if there on hibeam all the time your only drawing about 14 more amps then stock so if you can make that difference up some how you should be good.

I don't even use the highbeams at present though.

The Alt light comes on when idling below 1000 RPMs (95% of the time).

I'm planning on moving the battery to the trunk soon, but want this problem solved first though.

**DeathRat** · 07-01-2004, 09:02 AM

Originally Posted by smufguy

You can also get a 4th gen accord alternator which is 80 amps, i have this alternator, and drop it in. The lower bracket is perfect fit, but the tilt of the alternator is akward so the top bracket wont line up and hence u gotta make it fit. Besides, you need a different belt for this mod with the 4th gen alt.

Does the 4th gen utilize any other higher output alternator?

**smufguy** · 07-01-2004, 09:46 AM

Originally Posted by DeathRat

Does the 4th gen utilize any other higher output alternator?

mike (bloodlust) got a mean green alt ,which is an upwards of 300 bux and his is like 120amps or something. U can also get ur stock alt rewound to math the amperage ur looking for, its not that hard. Besides, i dont know of any high output alt that the 4g uses. The only problem i have so far is the top bracket bolt keeps snapping off. I use the house hold carrige bolt. the shitty alloy crap. But im looking to get a galvanized steel or even a stainless steel bolt that would be awsome. I might end up making a different bracket for the alternator tentioner from either the block to the alt or the firewall to the alt. Im not sure. So yeah, it should be good.

**DeathRat** · 07-01-2004, 06:59 PM

Originally Posted by smufguy

mike (bloodlust) got a mean green alt ,which is an upwards of 300 bux and his is like 120amps or something. U can also get ur stock alt rewound to math the amperage ur looking for, its not that hard. Besides, i dont know of any high output alt that the 4g uses. The only problem i have so far is the top bracket bolt keeps snapping off. I use the house hold carrige bolt. the shitty alloy crap. But im looking to get a galvanized steel or even a stainless steel bolt that would be awsome. I might end up making a different bracket for the alternator tentioner from either the block to the alt or the firewall to the alt. Im not sure. So yeah, it should be good.

Try finding a GRADE 8 BOLT instead of that Grade 3! It doesn't have to be stainless, as most are just GRADE 5's! Grade 8's are the hardest bolts around (used as head bolts, etc).

I can a custom Alt here for just under $500 CDN already, but the brackets have to modified to allow it to bolt in.

**smufguy** · 07-01-2004, 08:19 PM

one thing that bolt neads to take is side loading. Not axial loading. The stock braket bolt is my tensioner bolt now and i just have a carrige bolt passin thru the bracket and the top alternator hole to get the tension right.

But i got ur specs on bolts, ill try to find it.