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alright, i searched for a lil bit but i was just wondering... how much does a higher compression really help? i mean if you were to do an all engine build how much does compression really help? like if i go up to 10.5:1 or 11:1 along with the rest of my engine build will I really see more acceleration or power?
Last edited by sinisterfuzzy; 09-15-2006 at 09:32 AM.
in general, it helps quite a bit, but not very many people with A20's have tried this. the a20 isn't exactly an NA powerhouse. but for good allmotor motors, like K and B series, high(er) compression is a great way to make power.
keep in mind that with high compression you will need really good fuel, and careful tuning, just like a boosted car. its by no means a 'quick and reliable' way to make power.
but in general its a really cheap way to make a good solid increase in power. (cheap in terms of cost of headwork and supporing mods, vs the cost of domed pistons alone lol)
thanks for the info, but here is my complete (just engine) build that i'm thinking of right now. what sort of compression should i run for this?
Colt Cams Tri-Flow
Titanium Valve Spring Retainers
Racing Springs
.5mm Oversized Valves
Valve Guides
Valve Guide Seals
Headwork
Engine Balancing
Cylinder Hone
Block Decking
Shot Peened and Polished Rods
i'll probly be running this on a weber 38 and 2.25" or 2.5" exhaust.
p.s. i know i've posted about 5.6 million different engine builds but this one i'm pretty sure i like, i've talked to a few engine builders and such i think i'm gunna stick to this one so which compression would be alright for this set-up?
Last edited by sinisterfuzzy; 09-15-2006 at 09:02 AM.
nobody can make up your mind for you.
do you want to run premium gas and take your car somewhere to pay and get it dyno tuned?
i am very conservative when it comes to being safe rather than radical. the shop I went with reccomended no more than 9.5:1 on stock engine management. I ended up going with 8.4:1 since I am boosting.
hard to say what you 'should' do, but a 11:1 setup would probably be lots of fun, but u will need to be very careful with it.
I'm also going to run the Colt Cams tri-flow. Did you decide which stage cam you were going to run with? It sounds like with your build you'd probably be safe running it in the Stage 2 powerband. The stage 2 tri-flow cam is from 3500-7500rpm I believe. With all that bottom end build and top end build, it sounds like you'd be okay.
I've also read a few things about titanium engine parts. I hear that titanium is very strong, but is brittle and tends to wear out faster. It's good for racing applications where people are rebuilding engines all the time, but for longevity, I've read it's not the best. I may be wrong on this though...
Hmm, 11:1 would be good but you'd need at least 95 ron octane to run properly, 12:1 you'd need at least 98-100 ron.
As far as pistons go stick with flat top and only have a single valve relief cut for the exhaust valve, and have the deck cut and head skimmed a little to help. As far as your valve sizes go don't mess about with only .5mm increase in size waste of time you can run 33mm inlet valves and 37mm exhaust Valves this will give a huge boost in performance as you'll be able to cut some wicked valve seats and back cuts onto the valves.
yeah, i was planning on getting it dyno tuned, and i don't have that big of a problem getting premium gas and if all i really need to run is 95-97 octane I could get some of that Torco accelerator.Originally Posted by bobafett
as for those valves, where would i get those valves, and what would I tell the machine shop dude in terms of what size to make them? depending on the size of my paycheck tommarow i might be ordering my valves verry soon.
how much does the stage 2 run? and if i wouldn't go with Ti parts would i be safer getting some Aluminum retainers wouldn't be as strong as Ti.
and as for this whole build anyone have any ideas on what my performance would look like on 95 octane gas (everyday) and then like 100+ (track nights)? and would i have raised my redline at all?
do you mean i can't just beat on it everyday? what do you mean by be careful, if this build means that I am seeing some serious performance gains i'd be extremely cautious to make sure it lasted.
Last edited by sinisterfuzzy; 09-07-2006 at 06:36 AM.
and am i going to want to get forged pistons? and has anyone else on here gotten any?
lol you probably dont want to try to run 95 octane for every tank of gas. do u know that race gas is like what $11-$12 per gallon now? i would stick with the highest CR you can go on pump gas. which is probably 10.5 ish....
and i dont mean that you cant beat on it, but its all in the tune. if you do a nice conservative tune, and your AFR's are in check, you can do whatever you want... but its not going to be cheap keeping good gas in there. $20 extra a tank doesnt sound worth it to me.(or whatever it would cost to actually raise octane from 92 to 95).
forged pistons and rods might be nice if you want a lighter rotating assembly, or just a motor that can resist heat and detonation better, so that a sloppy tune or a weird tank of gas might not blow up your motor. there is just a larger room for error with the stronger forged pistons.
it shouldn't cost that much if you add some of this to premium. one of those brings 5 gallons of 93 octane to 107. So if you added like 3/4s of one of those to a full tank you should be alright, right? but how significant would the difference be between 10.5:1 and 11:1? if it's not that spectacular i might as well just go with 10.5, rjudgey made it sound like different valves then what i planned would make a great increase.
Last edited by sinisterfuzzy; 09-07-2006 at 08:42 AM.
^edit
just get these PISTONS ....thoes are cheap.... and it raices your cr to 10.3 its not a bad boast at all.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
hm, how much did he want for those? i might need to pick those up...
he wanted 300 for the car....and 250 shipped for the pistons...the car is worth it tho.... just the flywheel is worth it...hahaha
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Also, don't get confused between "RON" and the US ratings for Octane. rjudgey was using RON when he said 95-100. In the US we use the average between RON and MON, which are standards used elsewhere in the world.
RON is typically higher than the US octane rating... so 87 octane in the US is usually about 91-95 RON. So 95-100 RON is typically our premium gas here (92 octane).
Heres more info, interesting read:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
It's costing me about $205 shipped both ways. When I spoke with the Colt guy on the phone he was very helpful. He said that Honda cams are the strongest cams made. He said that aftermarket cams are junk compared to an OEM Honda cam. He won't regrind aftermarket cams for Hondas either, and that he would rather someone go to the junk yard and pull an OEM cam for regrind because of how durable they are. He guaranteed mine for 5 years at least. Here is the info they e-mailed me with:
he wanted 300 for the car....and 250 shipped for the pistons...the car is worth it tho.... just the flywheel is worth it...hahaha
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
and i just called up Gude and asked them, they said with there head they sell for the car you can run 91 octane gas on 10.8:1. and since i'm pretty far away from gude couldn't i just have a machineshop up here work the head to run that?
and btw S&S still makes headers for us right? they were still on there website they're $350 or something so they should be teh shit right?
Last edited by sinisterfuzzy; 09-07-2006 at 10:34 AM.
well rjudgey said that their heads were just basically cleaned up, that they werent the best. sooo i dont know
I read in Hot Rod a long time ago that each point in compression increace you can expect 4% increase in HP. on a V8 putting out 350 HP thats 14 HP on our 2l about 5HP fully modded maybe 10 HP I doesn't sound like much but with P&P and a good cam 11 to 1 could give you 20HP over 9.3. Thats a big jump for a four banger. Since Higher Comp pistons don't realy cost much more than stock its cheap HP but No more Cheap Gas EVER!!!
Mods:
CAI
Teg Tranny
Accel SS Coil/ Wires/ NGK plugs
Auto up and down on both windows
Drop springs and shocks
2.5 inch cat and exhaust/ Cherry bomb turbo II muffler... yes it's LOUD!!!
do you guys think with my build up i have listed here i could maybe hit 14's at all? and if i can't what else do i need to get there?
here's the complete build...
Weber 38
S&S Header
Custom Cam Gear
Engine Components
Forged Pistons
Oversized Valves
Racing Springs
Colt Cams Tri-Flow Stage 2
Titanium Valve Spring Retainers
Valve Guides
Valve Guide Seals
Machine Work
Headwork
Oversized Valves Installed
Engine Balancing
Cylinder Hone
Block Decking
Shot Peened and Polished Rods
Transmission
Stage 2 Pressure Plate
Stage 2 Clutch
Flywheel Lightened, Balanced, Resurfaced
what size was rjudgey talking about for the valves?
Last edited by sinisterfuzzy; 09-07-2006 at 01:19 PM.
integra hybrid conversion? is that the gear box thing? how hard is that to do?
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