http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/...eparation.html
Nice install page, just apply some things they did to our car.
Even shows crank trigger mod
http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/...eparation.html
Nice install page, just apply some things they did to our car.
Even shows crank trigger mod
- llia
I was thinking about using MS on my hatch. However, the stock EFI setup isn't that bad.
If I was to use MS, I would use coilpacks instead of a distributor.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
i would have to agree with carotman, coilpacks would work a lot better.
i am sure you can still use stock efi distributor for TDC and cylinder position sensors.
Alex.
i was considering a stand alone fuel managment.. but i think im going to go with an apexi air/fuel controler.. easier i think.. piggy back the stock ecu..whats the reson for not using the vacume advance dizzy with mega squirt?
timming control.Originally Posted by Honda_Quaalude86
to retard the timming using a managment system? to prevent detonation? so when it needs to be reatarted it does it by its self? i think i understand..
that would be the senario in a turbo application...Originally Posted by Honda_Quaalude86
the afc will only control fuel, and limmit you on injector size and capable hp.
For the price of a safc and a btm you can get a fuel/spark management system and have 100% control over everything.
Originally Posted by 89turbo'ed
safc/BTM will give you control of everything, but they have their limits. thats why im going megasquirt instead. it might take longer to setup, but ive got the time and patience for it.
the problem with BTM is it will retard the timing by a set amount per pound of boost, so theres not so much fine tuning about it. and ive never used an safc before, but im guessing its the same thing with fuel and trims it every 100 rpm or so which isnt too fine
The most hp gain i have ever heard of using a safc/btm is 200, and the biggest injector would be dsm 440's.Originally Posted by newaccorddriver
as far as safc settings they are user defineable at 500 rpm increments,witch is decent.. I agree that it would be nicer to fine tune to 250 rpm increments.
I am running the commander 950 on my accord and it is definable to 1 rpm increments.
It is tunned at 250 rpm increments at low rpm and 500 rpm at higher rpm.
i initionally used the safc/btm set up and acctually found it easier for the laymen to use and tune effictively..
I acctually had good gains using it, but it was time to step up..
I have heard that the megasquirt was good but i have not done much research on it.
Originally Posted by 89turbo'ed
im taking on the big challenge of exploiting megasquirt to its full potential next spring hopefully. if it proves successful, then hopefully others will follow...
Will this work for the turbo setup? Opinions?
-Harvey
I believe you will still have to change the distributor or run some other form of ignition control.
Originally Posted by EricW
nope, we got what we need for ignition control. just search that website
damn that stuf looks real complicated...might just get a SAFC like i was originally thinking...the tunability with the megasquirt seems to be pretty extensive though. has anyone ever used megasquirt on a 3G before?
-Harvey
I just skimed it real quick, I didn't really get into any of the details.Originally Posted by newaccorddriver
Originally Posted by EricW
simply put, we need a reluctor and a variable reluctor sensor. our distributors have that built into it. the ONLY thing we need to do is disable our vacuum advance which just means pulling those 2 vacuum lines off of it
I talked to a megasquirt dealer a few weeks ago and told him about my setup that i want. He said he can sell us ASSEMBLED (so you dont have to put it together, thus eliminating the complicated part...) anyway an assembled unit for fuel control for $320....and setup for ignition control for only $30 more. plus a wiring hardness for your laptop and your looking at about $380 or so. He also did some research on our dizzy and said we do INFACT have everything for ignition control. I told him i wanna run about 12 to 15 psi daily and he megasquirt is prefect for a more cheap/realible source for tuning. Plus you get to do it yourself which i personally think is badass. I suggest this route to ALL!!!!
Updated...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2230226
Was just looking over the MS ignition control page, and it's really pretty simple. The MS can fire the coil directly so all it needs is the signal from the reluctor in the distributor to get base timing. For maximum tuneability though you would want to disable the normal vacuum AND the mechanical advance, since MS can do both. For vacuum advance you just disconnect the vacuum. For mechanical advance you could modify the weights or just replace them with some spacers or something.
C|
we actually have mechanical advance? i thought all our stuff was vacuum based? i kinda need to know how to disable it now then.. unless i can tune around the mechanical advance as well
Originally Posted by newaccorddriver
thats when the OBD1 comes in.....its all electronic
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
There is vacuum advance AND mechanical advance. Mechanical advance uses little weights that swing out and advance the reluctor as RPM increases. Basically you could just cut the weights down so they won't swing out.
C|
so its centrifugal advance as well as vacuum advance? would i be able to weld the sensor down so it doesnt advance itself? ive taken apart a distributor already and noticed that its only the sensor that actually moves
First I should mention, I'm talking about the Tec distributor here. I've never taken a Hitachi apart. Look at this pdf, section 26-6 (page 500):
http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/SvcMan/62SB002.pdf
The vacuum advance moves the stator, which is right below the pickup coil. The centrifugal advance is farther underneath. The governor weights push on the rotor shaft and it turns the reluctor in relation to the main shaft. There are lots of ways you could lock it down; hack up the weights, weld stuff together, whatever works.
C|
does anyone have a guide on how to take apart a distributor? i kinda need one so i can see if its got centrifugal advance built into it
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