progress on the oil cooler project.
the blower is now mounted to the cooler shroud,by some aluminum adaptors i made, this entire assembly will fit nicely where the battery is now,along with the coolant overflow tank. this is a small high velocity blower,it will be activated by a temp switch, so when the filter adaptor starts sending oil to the cooler at about 185 degrees, the switch will turn on the fan,for a small blower,this moves a LOT of air
[img]
i forgot to mention,the cooling air is going to come from the hood scoop. once the other carbs are in place, my existing air intake tube and air cleaner will not be used anymore, i'll build a scoop tray that is attached to the bracket,that now braces the air intake tube, i'm going to look for a cheap cold air intake on E-bay,then use the nice looking tubing to fabricate the piping back to the blower.
where did u get that blower ?
<-- 89 LX-i -->
E-BAy it has a gm part number, the GM number is 90 493 287 , it has a sticker over the gm number that is 370047-aa 06-25-97 . it's a bosch blower, the bosch number is BPA 12 V 0 130 007 810 with YQ in large letters. hope that helps.Originally Posted by drago742
I would say mount it right behind the grill area or bumper opening-I like the sheetmetal work but the blower is a little meh for me imo
will the blower have problems if it rains??? sucking up water or something like that? or do you not drive the hatchy in the rain, also is there an exhaust pipe aswell to get the heat back out of the engne bay? but still seams like a "cool" project (pun intended) lol sweet work
nice
well it mounts where the battery is now,i'm moving the battery. i'll just pull in ar from under the scoop is all. you really don't need a pipe to get heat back out of the engine bay, you just blow it out the cooler and it's pulled down and out,just like heat from the radiator. that bit of heat under the hood won't hurt anything,the main idea is to remove it from the oil itself and cool the oil.
what made you decide to use a quite capable oil cooler like that? I have seen them like that on air cooled engines, and some not so stout on like trucks and police cars. It is very impressive project but I thought oil needed to reach operating temps to work best. I do see where the A20 has had oil seal issues from cooked oil but I am not sure if it was from lack of maitenance or is it oil getting too hot because of the engines oiling system design.
I am not knocking it, I just was curious about the concept and is it something I need to do at some point...
how hot does the oil get? when i rebuild i want a oil temp guage.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Hmm yeah, what IS the optimal oil temp range for these engines? Is there a spec in a Honda service manual somewhere?
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...ght=oil+cooler
some Honda engines use a small cooler
I did a search and it seems to be an open, debate as to it being a worthy modification.. now that was not my intention to open that back up Lost...
I think of my D15 civic and some things I learned along the way. The thermostat was stuck open on it for evidentley a long time. That caused sludge to start forming because it was not warming up properly. Also the cylinders can start to go egg shaped if the engine never reachs optimal temp.and is continuously run for hours that way. Now that is coolant temp, oil temp would be a little different.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 09-13-2007 at 11:41 AM.
thanks i was lookin for something like that to try some idea my friend tought of
<-- 89 LX-i -->
the oil filter adaptor i'm getting has a thermostat, when the oil is below 185 it bypasses the cooler, the valve starts to open about 185,and at 200 degrees all the oil is routed through the cooler. you need the oil to reach a certain temp because it needs to burn off moisture that is a normal byproduct of combustion. 185 to 200 is a good operating range. cooler oil is always a worthwhile modification, that 20 degree drop is a huge improvement for the engine. it also helps keep your oil pressure up while idling and in stop and go traffic, the hotter the oil gets,the thinner it gets. i've never heard of the egg shape thing,but of course sludge forms,because the crap in the oil can't burn off. if your pcv system is malfunctioning,it can also cause sludge to form, because the stuff boiled out of the oil isn't pulled out of the engine. I got the cooler because it was a freebee, it's an aircraft cooler, a couple of the fins were bent, so it can't go on an airplane. it was marked junk,but i pressure tested it and it's fine. more pics coming shortly.
You should get me one of those....looks like a nice thing to have!
1986 Honda Accord Lx-i
~~NGK~~Silvania~~MSD~~Pioneer~~MSW~~Bosch~~DC Sports~~115WHP 116WTQ
almost done,deceided to pull air in from the factory air location under the fusebox,going to modify it slightly is all.
Cool, a little too much for me, but great work! What did you use for the filter adapter? I'm using this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hayde...QQcmdZViewItem It was the only one that I could find with an internal thermostat.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
the one i'm getting is from oreilies, I looked it up in thier catalog, and the recomended filter that goes with it, screws right on to an extra oil filter base i have perfectly, so i know it will fit. if the oil filter fits the other side of the adaptor is a mirror image of the filter. it might have been a hayden if i think about it. that same adaptor fits a lot of japanese cars. it's actually pretty easy to find because a lot of hondas use this same filter including a lot of ludes. I think my wifes 98 even uses the same filter if i remember correctly. you also have the option of using an oil filter relocation kit. and an inline oil cooler thermostat. that moves the filter out from the back of the block.
OK i test fitted it in the location,this is about where it would sit after removing the battery to the hatch area. I need to pull the fender and remove the plastic restrictor thing for the intake,then bolt a flange to the area where the hole is. I think I'm going to run AN hard lines,then flexible lines from the filter adaptor to the hard lines. the cooler is fixed anyway,only the lines attached to the engine need to move. a lot of those wires will get moved with the battery. especially the wire for the amps,it will only need a short line. I have a battery disconnect solonoid from an airplane,this would cut off the battery with a switch. that way the battery is always off when the car is off.
OK i test fitted it in the location,this is about where it would sit after removing the battery to the hatch area. I need to pull the fender and remove the plastic restrictor thing for the intake,then bolt a flange to the area where the hole is. I think I'm going to run AN hard lines,then flexible lines from the filter adaptor to the hard lines. the cooler is fixed anyway,only the lines attached to the engine need to move. a lot of those wires will get moved with the battery. especially the wire for the amps,it will only need a short line. I have a battery disconnect solonoid from an airplane,this would cut off the battery with a switch. that way the battery is always off when the car is off.
Looks Great
2004-2011?
looks cool man
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
looking good tim
That looks awesome installed!
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
well it's not installed yet,but thats exactly what it will look like when it is. except for the hose being hooked up to the opening in the inner fender. i do have to add a couple of hymn joints to brace the top of the cooler,no big deal,and do all the bracketry to hold the radiator hoses in place and the mounting bracketry. I emailed a guy i saw on a ford forum,who is selling a moroso battery box,the good sealed one, for only 50 bucks,they are normally 100 bucks new. so i can get this battery relocated. going to take a while,i am VERY ticky about running high current cables inside of the car. so everything has to be fused and very carefully run to get power back up to the front. once i get that done, I can get the cooler mounted up there permantly and start running oil lines.
more work on the oil cooler, stupid rain,the blower is in place now i just need to wire it
Last edited by lostforawhile; 09-22-2007 at 03:31 PM.
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