Manifold Egrodomy

[2oodoor]

Ok no turning back now, Im cutting this manifold out to have true JDM flare. No Egr or evidence of one.
does anybody know if the vacuum tree is threaded, will it come out because I need to get a good weld across there and I think it may be in the way. I may wind up making another tree on the side and weld up that hole instead of the EGR hole. I am cutting out the plemum divider and opening up the hole then welding an aluminum plate over it to accomadate a different type carb. Pics of that part later
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[IMG][/IMG]

[2oodoor]

everything so far was done with a sawsall and great care, I am going to trim off as many uneeded bumps as I can so this should be easier to put on and take off the B20A. I am trying to access a milling machine tomorrow.
Can't remove too much material in some places or it could warp.

[2ndGenGuy]

Man that's going to look like the hotness. I wish I could find that other one I saw that had that done... It looked damn nice. You gonna run a dremel up in there after you weld it to port it all out nicely?

[2oodoor]

oh yes, it is going to get real ugly before it looks pretty
I should have taken a before pic, I removed a lot today. That dark line is carbon from the egr channel. All of that will be smooth and polished.

[Ichiban]

If you have the capability to do all this repair work, why not just make your own manifold? Seriously, what do you need? A flange and some bent aluminum tubing. The existing manifold is pretty simple, a plenum, a 90 off of each side, then the reverse of a 2-1 collector to the flange. With aluminum, it's pretty easy to fill and shape to get your desired flow paths.

[2oodoor]

it is just for one carb at this point, that is why I want to use this hull. I am really not changing too much on it. I am concerned about the coolant flow a little though.

[A18A]

you sure chopped that up

[2oodoor]

a little grinding later, and a small sample of using a surface prep tool. Still have sanding and shaping to do, then it is off to welding and retapping some holes.
[IMG][/IMG]
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[Oldblueaccord]

Tell me its gonna be a Holley 2 barrel!


wp

[2ndGenGuy]

Damn dude that's gonna look sweet. You should hit the whole thing up with the grinder and smooth it all out real nice like.

[2oodoor]

Tell me its gonna be a Holley 2 barrel!


wp

I really wouldnt mind trying that, using a percys metering block maybe.
Which one, 350 or 500 cfm?

[Oldblueaccord]

Whats the cfm use of our motors?

I think the 500 cfm is cheaper then the 350 but i have not looked in a longtime.



http://www.4secondsflat.com/Carb_CFM_Calculator.html


wp

[A20A1]

Nice work. I was using a grinder on mine and the aluminum just clogged the disk.
So I pulled out my biggest, really course flat file and it tore into the aluminum.

I used brass barbed fittings for the vacuum hoses and relocated all the vacuum lines to the rear. Nothing was threaded so I added threads, drilling and ghetto tapping the threads using the brass fitting.

A while back I read some negative stories about the percy adjust-a-jet but who knows how it will work, I would still try it if I had the money.

[2oodoor]

I am going to try some different grades of prep disks. I used a fine tooth file to do some shapeing and the alum gets caught in the file and gouges real bad. I have a slap file somewhere made for lead, maybe I will try that when I get around to the other sides.
[IMG][/IMG]

[2ndGenGuy]

Holy shit roo! That shit is looking good! Nice work man!

[turabaka]

Damn man. that looks good.

[greentee76]

Looks real nice. I thought maybe this was for one of the webers but it sounds like you are going a different direction. Cool!

[itzdave]

sounds like a good plan...

[Ichiban]

I am going to try some different grades of prep disks. I used a fine tooth file to do some shapeing and the alum gets caught in the file and gouges real bad. I have a slap file somewhere made for lead, maybe I will try that when I get around to the other sides.

use chalk to lubricate your file, it really reduces pinning.

[2oodoor]

Still need to be watersanded and polished a little. I need to set a carb on it to see how much clearance there is for throttle shafts and stuff before I weld on the carb flange. I removed quite a bit of material. I left a small part of the divider there to give gas a place to soak instead of puddle, we will see how that works,

[IMG][/IMG]

[greentee76]

You're putting the weber on this I assume?
Have you thought about just drilling and tapping for the carb studs rather than using an adapter, or are you saying that you're going to weld the carb itself to the manifold?
Anyway looks real sharp!

[2oodoor]

You're putting the weber on this I assume?
Have you thought about just drilling and tapping for the carb studs rather than using an adapter, or are you saying that you're going to weld the carb itself to the manifold?
Anyway looks real sharp!

yeah Im gonna weld the carb itself on... blehhh
no I just looked at it, I need to just use the top part of the adapter plates and weld it. gonna bolt it first though.
Yep going with the weber just for the time being, to get this motor going. The hard part of milling and shaving the manifold is done and I can always go and modify the carb flange.

[greentee76]

yeah Im gonna weld the carb itself on... blehhh

Yeah I really did think that was what you meant.(At least I was hoping that wasn't what you meant)

[A20A1]

I moved the PCV vacuum port to the rear, that way with everything gone I can eventually lay over a polished shield made of aluminum to cover the entire manifold and weld it on below and before welding on the 4bbl adapter.

I figure a shield will help show off the carb more and hide the manifold and the junk below when people look down the hole in my hood that will need to be there to fit the carb on. The shield would also double as a mounting point for any hood scoop. As an added touch I want to acid etch "3GEEZ" into the shield between the carb and valve cover... as long as it turns out okay on a piece of scrap. I can't acid etch nicely onto the manifold as is and have it centered and visible the way i want, so having a flat shield gives me more options to do things like placing custom text.

My only trouble with the whole idea is if I will still be able to access all the bolts/nuts to tighten he manifold down.

[88Accord-DX]

Damn, that looks nice. Good job on it. I was curious, is that piece of aluminum stock welded in there or did you fill that hole in with that aluminum stuff you had filled in on the weber base plate. You know, the ones with what looked liked aluminum foil on weber pics you had a while back?