ok im planning on pulling the engine out of the accord and it will be my first engine pull that ive been responsible for doing. i have no idea where to start so if anyone could tell me wat i need to do to pull it out any help would be appreciated
ok im planning on pulling the engine out of the accord and it will be my first engine pull that ive been responsible for doing. i have no idea where to start so if anyone could tell me wat i need to do to pull it out any help would be appreciated
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
there were a few write ups here about giving you a clue...here's one of them https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7316
You want to download the service manual and read the section on pulling the engine very carefully. Then follow it to the letter.
http://honda.roadpwnage.com/manuals/...-1989-full.php
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Follow the manual, and make sure you label all your vacuum lines and wires so you aren't looking at diagrams trying to remember where where they all go . You might want to label your fuel lines and coolant hoses as well. Good luck .
ok thx for the help and links but on another note ive been wanting to do a 5 speed conversion and i see this as the perfect opportunity to do so. but anyone have an idea of what ill need to do to do the swap correctly?
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
You will need, transmission, clutch/pressure plate, flywheel, starter, clutch cable, pedals, shifter, shift rod, torque rod/shifter plate, and possibly a few other things. I'm sure there is a good write up on the swap somewhere. I have all the parts in my LXi that I'm stripping down and using most of the interior and all the stuff for the EFI. The transmission does has 289,000 miles, so I would suggest you check local junkyards for one (not worth the shipping costs for one that will be needing a rebuild), but if you want the other stuff PM me.
Because I'm bored, I'm going to write up what I normally do, kinda in this order.
Turn the key to ACC
Plug mp3 player into stereo
Turn music up
Remove the bonnet (4 10mm bolts, window washer hose)
Remove air intake piping (2 10mm bolts, the rest should just come off by hand)
Undo throttle cable (12mm nut)
Remove distributor/unplug wire(s)
Undo clutch cable (if manual)
Undo engine ground from gearbox (10mm bolt)
Undo speed sensor (1 10mm bolt)
Undo the fuel feed line from the fuel rail (17mm nut)
Undo dog bone mount (1 19mm bolt)
Undo the fuel return hose (spring clamp)
Undo that red hose from the throttle body
Undo cruise control actuator vacuum hose from manifold
Undo brake booster hose from intake manifold
Undo power steering hoses from pump/undo the whole pump from the motor
Undo ground cable from the body to the rocker cover (10mm bolt)
Unplug engine loom from right side of engine bay
Unplug engine loom from the battery area
Undo alternator charge wire from fuse box (1 screw)
Undo air con pump (4 12mm bolts)
Undo radiator hoses from engine (spring clamps)
Undo heater core hoses from the engine
Undo black box from firewall (2 10mm bolts & unplug)
Undo cruise control actuator & unplug (2 10mm bolts)
then after all that fiddely stuff from there has been removed, loosen the front wheel nuts, jack the car up off the ground as high as you can, support the
car on jack stands, block wheels, etc..
remove front wheels
undo the shifter cable from gearbox (should only be a few 10 & 12mm bolts) if auto
undo the shift linkages (1 10mm bolt holding the stabilizer to the gearbox & 1 12mm bolt on the shifter which is easier to access from the top) if manual
unbolt the exhaust down pipe from the block & manifold (2 12mm nuts & 3 or 4 14mm nuts on the manifold, usually rusted stuck lol)
undo the axles. For this I usually loosen the lower ball joint nuts (17mm, with a split pin usually) then hammer away at the control arm to shock it loose from the ball joint then lift the hub off the control arm. after that, decide if you want to undo the axles from the inner cv joints, or remove the whole axle & cv joint from the gearbox. if you remove them from the gearbox, drain the oil/ATF first, if not, then just loosen the bands around the cv joints. After that is done, pull the hub outwards to get it out of the gearbox/cv joint. if you decided to undo the axle from the cv joint, be sure to have something clean layed out on the ground to catch the bearings lol.
with the axles out of the gearbox, put the hub back in the control arm, and put the 17mm nut back on
install front wheels
put car back on ground
remove battery (normally 2 10mm nuts on the terminals & 2 10mm nuts on the holder) bubai music
remove the battery tray (4 or 5 10mm bolts)
get your hoist ready
tripple check everything between the car & the motor is out of the way, I probably didn't mention everything
undo the front & rear engine mounts (2 14mm nuts)
bolt the chain to the lifting points on the engine (1 at the front right of the engine bay, the other on the gearbox behind where the clutch cable goes. make the chain go behind the distributor, instead of in front)
connect the hoist to the chain on the engine, slightly to the right side of the motor, so it lifts out on a angle. put a screw driver or something in the chain if you have to
start lifting the engine till the slack is gone
make sure the chain isn't going to be putting stress on anything you dont want it to
unbolt the side engine mount (2 14mm bolts & 1 on the side)
lift it up slowly & keep checking to make sure nothings gonna catch on anything
celebrate
If you want more space in the engine bay to work with, you can also remove the radiator & its support. That would free up lots of room.
I probably missed some stuff, but you get the idea.
pro tip, if its an auto, make sure to disconnect the shift cable... or you can be like me and lift a car up with it....
that is one stout ass cable!
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
i just pulled and reinstalled a motor w/ another member last week and a18a did a pretty thorough job of describing the process. two-three people working makes it a heck of a lot faster and easier, as long as they know what they're doing. so what i'm really saying is get a helper
yea i need to find help because nobody around here knows what theyre doing .... the main problem is neither do i...
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
If it's your first time pulling an engine, I'd recommend you not throw the tranny in to the job too. It's makes for a much bigger project and if something doesn't work right at the end, there will be too many places for the problem to be. I did the swap while I was also rebuilding my engine. It took me a year to get it all done and when I went for the first start and the power was all dead, I was like "oh God now what." Just get the engine going and then tackle the trans after you get all the engine bugs worked out.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
you make a good point on the whole problem pinpoint issue... but i really want to try to get some georgia members down here to help me and teach me a few things. anyone interested in trying to round up a few people?...
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
ok another question... does the transmission have to come out with the engine or can i put a jack under it and just unbolt it from the engine?
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
it doesn't have to, but it's a hell of a lot easier if you leave it on the engine
ok thanks for the advice hopefully i can get around to at least pulling the engine sometime soon but i got hit in the face with even more school dues to pay including 700$ for community service... WTF i have to pay to do coomunity service!!!??? and thatll put a big dent in the money for my engine
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
ok i let this thread die but tomoro i will start unbolting and removing what has been listed... i will need help along the way so plz every1 whos been helping try to keep up to date on the thread... thx for the support let cross some fingers
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
Don't forget to take lots of pics.. they help when stuff is going back together..
yup my camera is about to get used more than ever and hopefully i can get this done right without destroying my car...
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
^you can just take your time and document, thats the most important thing.
1986 Honda Accord Lx-i
~~NGK~~Silvania~~MSD~~Pioneer~~MSW~~Bosch~~DC Sports~~115WHP 116WTQ
ive got a binder full of paper and notecards and a camper to store parts and keep organized... plus a good break place.
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
another question:
where are the best lift points on the engine...
or how should i position the chain?
pics would be helpful if any1 has some
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
Get into the manual. It's all in there. Proper lift points, proper procedure, proper order for unbolting everything. It's a goldmine.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
i put the chain to that obvious one on the top of the motor that bolts to the head, and the other end to one of those ones on the gearbox, and lift it up on a angle like this
i had a manual but it got soaked so i gotta buy a new one... but any suggestions as to which manual to look for? or just anyone from autozone or advance ect....?
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
is the throttle cable on the manifold? the reason i ask is because my nut is only 11mm not 12.... and where is the gearbox? is the ground in the pictures the right one?
throttle cable?: http://a.imageshack.us/img695/62/1000471o.jpg
ground?: http://a.imageshack.us/img188/2293/1000472la.jpg
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
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