Springs and Antiroll Bars + What's Available

[apache07x]

All sorts of springs on ebay. Summit Racing has anti sway bars. I just bought a kit 2 days ago from them with oversized bars. Comes with all of the mounting hardware too.

[j3wman]

actually that's all that this implies. The sleeve style coilover setup (more accurately the coilover conversion or sleeve) works, but the full-bodied coilovers (including the shock) will not work as they are entirely different lengths. Welcome to the board. Pull up a chair, stay a while, this is one of the best resources out there for the older honda's, and hands-down the best (if not the only) for the 3G.

Theyre different lengths but do they bolt up?

[gp02a0083]

No, absolutely do not heat the springs. By doing this, you change their tensile strength and make them more brittle. You will be far more prone to cracking your springs if you heat them up.

If you have no other choice, yes, a cut spring is far safer than a heated one. Be sure to replace all your shocks with new because the spring rate is increased when you cut the spring as well, so you'll need (at the very least) a new set of shocks to keep the car from bouncing down the road like a rubber ball.

Listen to mark, springs are made from spring steel after heating the metal up near 400F it will change structure into mild steel

[Matt's3rdGen]

This is an old thread but I was hoping I could get some help. I'm replacing my stock struts and springs with KYB excel-g struts and H&R sport springs that lower the car "1.5-2.0 inches on average" It sounds like this will cause camber issues that alignment can't fix, is this true? Also would extended top hats be a good idea, or will the stiffer springs compensate?

Since posting this I've read extended top hats won't fit a stock strut properly and required a coil-over type springs like ground controls or ksports. If this is true I guess I won't be needing them, huh? Any help appreciated, thanks

[lostforawhile]

This is an old thread but I was hoping I could get some help. I'm replacing my stock struts and springs with KYB excel-g struts and H&R sport springs that lower the car "1.5-2.0 inches on average" It sounds like this will cause camber issues that alignment can't fix, is this true? Also would extended top hats be a good idea, or will the stiffer springs compensate?

Since posting this I've read extended top hats won't fit a stock strut properly and required a coil-over type springs like ground controls or ksports. If this is true I guess I won't be needing them, huh? Any help appreciated, thanks

http://www.cheddasauto.com/

[Fixedit]

I asked MOOG what their spring rates are on those variable springs:

"No problem! Here are those spring rates:
CC221- 170 Rear Variable Rate Coil Springs - Pair. MOOG MOOG-CC221
CC248- 279 Front Variable Rate Coil Springs - Pair. MOOG MOOG-CC248

I also included the links back to those springs, they will come in a pair. Let me know if you need anything else or would like to place an order, we'll be happy to help! Have a great weekend."

So fronts (CC248) are 279 and rears (CC221) are 170, hope this info helps

EDIT Nevermind I didn't realize the spring rate info was in the original post about the MOOG springs, I didn't see it on their website so I went ahead and asked them. It must not show all of the product details on the mobile version of the website

[gp02a0083]

I asked MOOG what their spring rates are on those variable springs:

"No problem! Here are those spring rates:
CC221- 170 Rear Variable Rate Coil Springs - Pair. MOOG MOOG-CC221
CC248- 279 Front Variable Rate Coil Springs - Pair. MOOG MOOG-CC248

I also included the links back to those springs, they will come in a pair. Let me know if you need anything else or would like to place an order, we'll be happy to help! Have a great weekend."

So fronts (CC248) are 279 and rears (CC221) are 170, hope this info helps

EDIT Nevermind I didn't realize the spring rate info was in the original post about the MOOG springs, I didn't see it on their website so I went ahead and asked them. It must not show all of the product details on the mobile version of the website

with this being said most springs available for the fronts are linear, with limited few being actually progressive. The rears typically are usually all progressive.

I have used the Moog springs in the past with my Bilstien steup.

CC246 compared to the CC248 have different installed spring heights 11" vs 9" with max load raitings of 484 lbs and 1100lbs respectfully. this changes things a bit, however I have used the CC 247's
as far as the rear CC221 they are raited at a 387lbs load raiting at the 170 lb/in with a 11" installed height.

[L3G10N]

Anti-roll bars made for the third generation Accord:

FORMAT
[brand]
F: [bar diameter], [ratio]
R: [bar diameter], [ratio]
The ratio compares a bar’s torsional stiffness to the stock stiffness of the 88-89 fuel injected car’s bars. This ratio is calculated assuming all bars have the same geometry as the stock parts (same lever arm twisting the bar).

Stock 86-87
F: 20.5mm (approx 13/16”), 0.69
R carb: none
R fuel injected: 12mm (approx 15/32"), 0.73
Stock 88-89
F: 22.5mm (approx 7/8"), 1.00
R carb: none
R fuel injected: 13mm (approx 1/2"), 1.00

If you have updates, other information that you think should be added, or any questions about what is listed here post them below and I'll make changes as required.

I will not do your research for you. You are as capable of contacting the manufacturer as I am if you are curious about a particular product.

Just a quick correction. Carbed Hatchback might have rear sway bar. In fact, all my 4 hatchback S(canadian) I had, all had rear swaybar.
My 86 that I still have, do have rear sway bar also.
Not upgraded by anyone before. Came stock like this