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Thread: 32/36 DGEV Needed

  1. #1
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    32/36 DGEV Needed

    Hello!

    My baby brother purchased a 85 Accord. Someone started the Weber conversion and then gave up.

    The adapter plate is on the manifold... We have accumulated a decent book of helpful literature on the swap...

    Now all we need is the carb and filter!


    Wanted! 32/36 DGEV electric choke. Must be ready to install!


    If you are in CO or a neighboring state we'd be happy to meet you. or, we'd be happy to pay shipping costs.

    We'd like to get this running asap so don't be shy!


    Thanks,
    Jake



  2. #2

    2ndGenGuy's Avatar
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    Re: 32/36 DGEV Needed

    They're only like $175 new. I would not mess around with a used one, as they are not quite OE quality, IMO. I've wasted too much time buying crappy used ones that didn't work. Carbs Unlimited or Redline Weber should be able to help.

  3. #3
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    Re: 32/36 DGEV Needed

    Quote Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy View Post
    They're only like $175 new. I would not mess around with a used one, as they are not quite OE quality, IMO. I've wasted too much time buying crappy used ones that didn't work. Carbs Unlimited or Redline Weber should be able to help.
    Hi Guy,
    Thanks for the response.
    I am totally turned off of Redline Weber.. a few phone calls- no return calls. Emailed them too, never heard back!

    I will look into Carbs Unlimited right now.
    Thanks for the info!

    Any advice for a couple idiots doing the swap?

    I know with an Auto (which my brothers car is so unfortunately equipped with) the throttle linkage can be tricky- any wisdom to share?

    Thanks again for the reply,
    Jake

  4. #4

    2ndGenGuy's Avatar
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    Re: 32/36 DGEV Needed

    Never ordered from Redline before... bummer to hear about that. I always use Carbs Unlimited, since they're local to me. I have bought numerous carbs and parts from them, so I can recommend!

    My first advice would be to take your time with the install. Be very thorough. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. The adapter plates have a tendency to leak if you over tighten them. Replace any old vacuum lines. One little crack or leak, and your carb will never run right.

    Do your best to get your base timing set right first. It's hard when the carb doesn't run right, but do your best. Before you do any tuning, your engine, manifold and carb must be up to full operating temp.

    Download the Weber Lean Best Idle PDF. It tells you the exact steps on how to tune your carb. Follow it exactly, it will tell you if you need to go up or down a jet size on the idle jet.

    The idle jet circuit is what your car will run on 95% of the time driving it around. Don't mess with any of the other jets until your car is idles smoothly and and has no drivability issues. The main jets are pretty much just for high RPM and full throttle usage.

    Again, take your time with the tuning. Getting the idle dialed in can take a couple hours. Dedicate some time and be very patient, if you change jets, write it down. I never wrote down anything, and so I can't ever remember it.

    Also one of the things I didn't know for the longest time was the location of the idle jets. None of the diagrams are very good at showing where it is. No need to take the carb apart. The idle jet is underneath a brass, flat head screw on the side of the carb. You unscrew the cap and pull the jet out of the cap.

    Take note of what size the jet is that comes with it too. The jet kits sometimes will come with idle jets that are (for example) 40, 45 and 50 and the carb might come with a 50. That doesn't do you much good if you need to go up a size to a 55. Jets are not cheap.

    Oh yeah and about that throttle cable, the best thing to do is pull the linkage off of the stock carb, and drill or notch out the hole so it fits over the Weber throttle shaft. You might have to adjust the TV cable (the one that goes to the transmission) once it's all set up. And make sure you have a really strong return spring. If the spring is weak, the throttle won't snap shut all the way, and you'll get lean conditions when you shut down the car, and it'll diesel and backfire. The backfiring will inevitably blow one of your vacuum caps off, and you'll wonder why the car runs like shit. :P

    Anyways, hope that was informative, and good luck!

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