Gude head package

[LiTtLe xOx BitT]

GUDE PERFORMANCE HEAD PACKAGE

The Gude performance head package is a matrix of technology, no stages or up grades, just the proven best! Starting with the advanced high velocity port and reverberation step philosophy, developed by Bill Gude and well proven over the past 30 years of import racing. Couple this with the famous Gude performance Bullfrog camshafts and high velocity throttle bodies, and you have a sure winning combination, well proven again and again for performance and reliability.

1. Intake ports are ported to create maximum velocity then rough cross hatched to provide better fuel atomization, which increases combustion efficiency providing increased power both at low and high rpm.
2. Exhaust ports are ported to relive internal pressure quickly, yet provide enough velocity to scavenge well, insuring a full fresh fuel and air charge will be delivered to the combustion chambers, not diluted down with left over spent gases from the last firing.
3. Head surface is milled them hand lapped to create a multi directional #32 micro Finish surface, this leaving hundreds of micro ridges to be crushed down by the steel gasket forming a super micro barrier for better gasket sealing.
4. Intake to head ports are purposely mismatched or stepped to fight unwanted reverberation and to reduce boundary layer effects improving port flow.
5. Valve seats we have tried 3 angles so called 5 angle, and many other valve and seat combinations, we have found that the factory angle on the valve is overall the best and that the blended radius parabolic valve seats pioneered by Gude performance provides the most horse power and longevity on most Imports.
6. Valve guides in most cases we have found that shorting the valve guide is helpful and will promote increased flow while still maintaining excellent valve control.
7. Valve springs all Gude performance camshafts are designed to operate to extreme rpm on stock valve springs, we spent countless hours designing and developing profile which will not require a high pressure valve spring which can cause added friction and valve stem failure due to the high loading of stiffer springs vale stem failure will usually cause major engine damage..
A few exceptions we will up the spring pressure, on 1.8 Acura Integra if the engine rpm is to exceed 7600 rpm, also the 92 to 95 dx will require springs above 7000 rpm.
8. Camshafts Gude performance Bullfrog or Stinger cams are included with all Gude head packages, all cams are ground to precise tolerances, and are of the famous Gude profiles. Gude poured out all 30 plus years of experience, into designing cam profiles that are stable at extreme high rpm with stock or light valve spring loading, this increasing horse power and engine reliability, as high valve spring loads can case excessive wear and result in total valve stem failure destroying a expensive engine.
Dyno Test WHP 1.6 stock engine makes about 96 hp and the torque is 87 ft pounds. With the Gude Head Package 144/147 hp 118/119 ft pounds. An average stock 2.0 engine has about 107 hp and 111 lbs of torque. With the Gude Head Pack and our long tube Gude Header the hp jumps to 181 and Torque. is 163 both engines are daily drivers with great gas mileage.



GUDE PERFORMANCE
ADDS UP TO 50 HORSE POWER
BULLFROG AND STINGER HEAD PACKAGES
ABSOLUTELY THE MOST POWER PER DOLLAR ON THE PLANET
A WINNER ON THE TRACK OR STREET, DYNO TESTED AND PROVEN TO
PERFECTION, RELIABLE, GOOD GAS MILEAGE, WORLD CLASS POWER.
TO ORDER CALL 951 244 3533 951 245 7577
A. PORTED POLISHED HEAD WITH RACING VALVE GRIND AND HIGH COMPRESSION CHAMBERS . B. BIG BORE THROTTLE BODIE.
C. BULLFROG / STINGER RACE CAMS. D. FLOW PORTED INTAKE MANIFOLD. E. RE-PROGRAMED COMPUTER.F.VALVE SPRINGS
MAKE MODEL KIT INCLUDES PRICE / CORE

HONDA .
ACCORD 1985/1989 A.B.C.D. $1550.00 / $ CALL

[reanimator420]

cool are you going to buy? i dont think i will pay for anything more expensive then what i paid for my carlol

[LiTtLe xOx BitT]

Yea, im going to get it, its going to take a little time to get the money up though.

[reanimator420]

well if you did then go turbo after that then it over for us catching you.lol i read it again and sounds like it would be worth it but damn that price

[EducatedFool]

I'm gonna have to buy a fuel injected 3g when I get out to Portland and save up for that..... that s**t is sweet :D

[lostforawhile]

can that package be adapted over for carb use? I was thinking it would be sweet with webbers

[3gn86lxi]

lol......I just sold half ot that package!!! But mine was the 86-87 stuff.

[EducatedFool]

it says to tell them if you have A/T or M/T, and Carb'd or FI

[gfrg88]

can that package be adapted over for carb use? I was thinking it would be sweet with webbers


hmmm, thats a good idea. it should work, just use the head with all the carb parts on it. i want some webbers, but i cant figure out how to work on carbs :hs:

[Versanick]

save up for a turbo.

the gude package treats me very well, but today a kid with a d16 with a dsm turbo in an EG hatch showed me how easy it is to make 300hp.

i promise you'll be happier saving up for a turbo setup. I promise.

[EricW]

Or do both. I have both but haven't installed them yet since i don't have the fuel management ready.

[crazykamper]

wow, sounds like a hellof a package, but im not really lookin to put more money into the head, than what i bought the car for. lol. maybe a paint job will be first. lol.

i say go for it, if uve got the money, get that, then turbo it, or get turbo, then that. lol.

[gfrg88]

Or do both. I have both but haven't installed them yet since i don't have the fuel management ready.

oooh that sounds nice. cant wait till i see your car done and some numbers, thats what i have planned until i can save up some more money to build the bottom end :thumbup:

[rjudgey]

Hmmm i've got that kinda power with a stock modded header and downpipe still intalled. Pretty cheap price if thats everything you get with it but i'd still say theres room for improvement on there stuff although it is not overpriced they still have to limit amount of time spent modifying the head and inlet manifolds at that price if i were to fo a head package it would cost easy twice that in labour time alone can take me 50-70 hours to get the head package perfect from carb/TB to the exhaust manifold.

[LiTtLe xOx BitT]

It says with a long 4-1 header and the head package it puts out 181HP and 163 torque on a 2.0 motor. I have a 4-1 header plus CAI, Cam gear, and full exhaust. I would be putting over 200 HP with this set up. Then if i had the bottom end bored and upgraded the fuel system and ignition system i dont think ot would be too hard to get around 250HP.

[killa_16]

WOW! i was gona save up 4 a t3 runnin around 7 psi and buy/find all the needed parts, but if i get this package its a lil cheaper and i dont have to search 4 n e thing, the turbo can wait so wen i do get it i can run around 12 psi

[gfrg88]

WOW! i was gona save up 4 a t3 runnin around 7 psi and buy/find all the needed parts, but if i get this package its a lil cheaper and i dont have to search 4 n e thing, the turbo can wait so wen i do get it i can run around 12 psi

youll be putting out more hp with the t3 ;)

[ZackieDarko]

hmmm this sounds really intresting

im looking to buy a WRX but maybe it can wait if i can get this thingy hmmm

[gfrg88]

hmmm this sounds really intresting
im looking to buy a WRX but maybe it can wait if i can get this thingy hmmm


dont get a wrx!!! i think theyre played out.........

[rjudgey]

You talking about Subaru??
250Bhp would be achievable but you would have to have a hand finished perfectly machined head with every known tweek done to it (pretty much what i do to my own heads) with the biggest valves possible squeezed in there you'd be looking at a considerable amount of money and time invested in finishing the head to the highest degree probably be cheaper to do a course and buy some books and tools and do it yourself, i can allways give you some pointers get some scrap heads an play with those till you perfect your skills.

I still think the Gude head package is expensive if you have skills with your hands e.g. good with painting, modeling, DIY, woodwork you can easily turn your hand to head work with the right tools if you don't have these then it's a no go, but most the time all you really need is a Dremel with a narrow flexible shaft, a dentist drill with a speed variable foot controller is even better but more costly unless you can find one secondhand. The rest of the stuff you can get done by a reliable machine shop like the head skimming, valve seat machining, guide reeming and pressing etc.

Or if your lazy and have cash to splash get the Gude head package and then go over the entire package with a magnifine glass and refine every little bit so that it's perfect. If they can do a package with 33mm inlet valves, and 37-38mm exhaust valves that would make things definately more interesting. With these size valves making the A20 hit 200bhp would be easy work and would be still very driveable, once you start nearing 230bhp-250bhp which is only possible with the bigger valves start becoming less driveble as the camshaft needed will be quite wild very lumpy idle and won't like idling less than 1200rpm, also the powerband would be high up not giving you much below 4000rpm that coupled with a lightwieght flywheel will make it easy to stall.

A good all round package would be A20 Head big valve conversion lots of head work (Gude if you want), definately a must Aftermarket Inlet manifold with as long as possible trumpets and large bore TB, or ITB's or Webers with custom inlet manifold with very long runners and trumpets with or without a good airbox depends on how noisy you want to be!! At least a 275 degree cam with 10-11mm lift but going upto 285 or 290 would still be pretty easy to drive just sounds a bit lumpy!!

A Good long 4-2-1 custom header (or DC sports) then mandrel bent 2.25" exhaust system if you can complete straight down the middle approach is best or maybe side exit if you want to keep stock location you'll just loose a few bhp to the couple of 90degree bends that will have to be put in.

Running a Higher CR ratio would benefit a lot but you could do this the simple way by using stock A20A3/4 pistons, deck the block a little, and skim the head a little, using flat bottomed custom valves will help as well as the stock ones have dishes in them. Even just a .5-1 increase in CR combined with the rest of the mods will give a good boost. But obviously some forged pistons say go upto 83mm with hand gapped rings adn a re-bore with a bit more breathing space as forged pistons expand more than cast going with a custom flat top (flat top is best) with just three valve reliefs done per piston so you have two pairs each or you could have them make two sets of four wiht the exhaust valve pocket in a different side of each pair then mix and match keep as spare or sell on to someone else. You 'd be easily able to hit 11:1 with the above maybe even upto 12:1 but head gasket life starts becoming an issue, if you use Felpro racing blue gasket you can withstand upto 11:1 for quite a long period of time anymore than that expect to change gasket every 15-30K miles depending on how hard you drive if your track racing only change it every couple or races to be safe.

If your running ITB's or Plenum then your definately going to need an aftermarket ECU and ignition package easiest and best is to go with Electromotive or if on a budget Megasquirt. If with carbs then just get an O2 sensor and a mixture gauge so you can see how lean and rich your running across the rev band, this will help jet the carbs properly.

If you have a B20A it's a lot easier to hit 200Bhp and you can leave most the valves alone too all you need is some hedwork i've developed some wicked mods for around the valve guide area on the inle and exhaust side, combined with valve finishes and new seats cut, this will give you easily 200bhp combined with some head and deck skimming to raise CR ratio and some better camshafts.

If your B20A wants more, then look at 34mm inlet valves maybe 35mm might go in but might need new seats, the biggest mod would be to use 30mm exhaust valves easily fit on the old seats tried with A20 inlet valves that drop straight in but you cna't use these as there not made from good quality stainless steel. Some set of custom exhaust valves with 30mm size and maybe just using some re-profiled stock 33mm inlet valves would still be a good package with headwork. Anyways bigger valves, bigger cams, forged pistons flat top (Type R ones apparantly fit?) with higher CR ratio, ITB's, Webers, or aftermarket plenum style with bigger TB, exhaust header and system, ECU etc. and you'll have 230-250bhp potential pretty easily.

If anyone is insane enough to want more it's goign to get real expensive to find that extra bhp and it's going to involve custom titanium pins, rods, valves, valve train, and probably a custom made crank with a longer throw and being lighter were talking pure race with potential to hit 300bhp like the King motorsport engines and Mugen race engines in Europe. But were talking $tens of thousands for just parts to be custom made in titanium so for the purely insane only!!

[mkymonkey]

you guys are probably going to call me stupid but does anyone have pictures of this stuff done? Do you Ryan or Eric? i would like to see what a head with this package looks like.

[EricW]

I'll try to get some pics later, after i get off work.

[rjudgey]

Yeah some real closeups of the combusion chambers and the ports would be really cool you can compare them to the pics of my heads on my cardomain site then.

[3gn86lxi]

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d45/3gn86lxi/PICT0419.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d45/3gn86lxi/PICT0417.jpg
These are of the two parts of the kit that I sold. It was for 86-87 though, I only had the T/B and intake manni. You guy missed out on it, could have gotten it SUPER cheap from me.

[TJX]

I have those now. They are probably the best mod I've done to date.

[mkymonkey]

yeah we could have gotten it cheap from ya but because its for 86-87 3geez...it wouldnt do any good to me :(

[rjudgey]

That TB could have had countersunk screws put in which would have increased air flow even more??? Seems strange that they didn't bother. Also the outside edge of the TB mouth could have been knife edged which would give a smoother entry into the TB from the induction piping.

Inlet manifold is just machined to be matched to the head it originally came from the machine marks only go in a couple of inches into the inlet manifold ports before you start seeing casting marks again.

If you haven't had your head worked on the first thing i would do to help would be to round of the edges of the inlet ports and open them up to like a trumpet shape, the diameter of the ports should be slighty larger than the inlet manifold that Gude has done. Also i'd fit some countersunk screws into the TB spindle and knife edge the entry to the TB as well. Those little mods should see at least a couple of bhp more. Also you can have the inside of the inlet manifold sand blasted which will help smoothen up the areas that haven't been touched.

Most your increase in power is just coming from the fact that you have a Bigger Butterfly and probably a Cold air induction kit fitted to it.

Would be good to see some close ups of the headwork if these pics are anything to go buy i'd reckon on plenty still left to do to improve upon the head itself as well.

But as i said before the guy's haven't done a bad job they do as much as they can for the money this kinda stuff costs loads in time which unfotunately isn't cheap. For example a engineers time is about £60 an hour average and if you have £1200 pounds worth of headwork done he's worked ont aht for roughly 20 hours which is only 2.5 days i spend on average about 60 hours not even including the cost and time involved for someone skimming the head, cutting new seats on valves, pressing in new guides, and chemical cleaning. If someone was to go to the same lengths as i do on a head you'd be footing a £3600 bill so into dollars works out about $6000 for one head. Obviously you'd be looking at custom big valves, perfect finish on ports and the best shape, perfect blending into the chambers, etc. etc.

All that Gude are doing is moddifying the bits that make the most difference, e.g. bigger TB, matching the manifolds, valve seats, and the finish to the ports (just to make it look good) But thats all that your $1500 dollars is going to buy and for that it's a good deal. The rest of the head doesn't gain as much flow for your money as the above so they leave it alone and concentrate on above only.
P.S. if they can do bronze guides get them done they last and fit so much better than cast ones and they help take the heat away quicker than cast iron too.

[EricW]

Pics!!:rockon:
http://www.knology.net/~ericrw/Gude%20head%20package%20resized/head.jpg
http://www.knology.net/~ericrw/Gude%20head%20package%20resized/intake%20valves%202.jpg
http://www.knology.net/~ericrw/Gude%20head%20package%20resized/exhaust%20valve.jpg
http://www.knology.net/~ericrw/Gude%20head%20package%20resized/head%20close%20up.jpg
http://www.knology.net/~ericrw/Gude%20head%20package%20resized/inside%20intake%20plenum%202.jpg
http://www.knology.net/~ericrw/Gude%20head%20package%20resized/Intake%20manifold%20close%20up%202.jpg
http://www.knology.net/~ericrw/Gude%20head%20package%20resized/intake%20manifold%20inside%20runner%202.jpg

There are 21 pics total,
the rest are HERE (http://www.knology.net/~ericrw/Gude%20head%20package%20resized/)

For any other specific pics let me know and I will take them.

[mkymonkey]

awesome! thanks eric

[Cheeseburger]

that looks hot

[rjudgey]

As confirmed on what i said above. Thanks for the pics, looks like most the money goes towards making the bigger TB butterfly. The head is barely touched, the inlet manifold is barely matched to the inlet ports, the inlet ports are as is, fancy valve seat job, some work on the exhaust valve guide ramp nothing extravagent just machine metal out the way. The combustion chambers is whats shocked me the most there left completely stock, they've not deshrouded the valves, blended the seats into the chamber roof horrible machine lips and casting marks everywhere, and worse of all they've lopped at least 1-1.5 mm off the head they've got it skimmed so much that there's now loads of squish all round the chamber which will cause Head Gasket fatigue and also detonation. I know this cause on my early heads i took loads of the head surface and didn't bother matching the chambers to the bores only to encounter lodas of H/G issues and detonation problems. As soon as i had modified the chambers bang problems all gone.

Tricky one now that i've seen pics i'd definately not have anything done by them except the bigger throttle body but then you could allways get an aftermarket ITB setup or B16/18 inlet manifold with bigger TB.

How big is the Gude TB 60mm?? Still worth considering as the stock inlet manifold is pretty good just needs sand blasting inside to smoothen out a bit.

Any other Head Guy's got any opinions it's such a shame i'm not that side of the water to be able to do anyones heads i reckon i'd give a lot of so called head people in the States a good run for there money!!

[87preludeA20A3]

Hey yeah i'm bringing back a dead thread... but i have some guestions for you guys... Maybe ERIC can answer them.... What valves did they use in your head to make them larger... I was measuring valves tonight and noticed the exhaust valves are 1.5 in and the intake valves are 1.3 in... Did Gude just put all exhaust valves in your head... If so is there going to be any head gasket sealing issues that you may encounter... And if not do you know the specs on the valves that you have (stem size and face size, etc)... I'm looking in to doing this on my head but i need specs first obviously..... Do you think there will be any flow issues with the intake valves not being shrouded, and being so close to the chamber wall like they are on the head.... These are my questions, please help if you can...

[A20A1]

Yeah you can remove half the shaft on the TB and it'll still hold up

[EricW]

I don't know anything other then what the web gude web site has on it since i bought the head from JohnnyO.

[DDRaptor]

I know increasing the diameter of the flow passages makes a huge difference i have done it in many of paintball guns, but coming from my measly ~100hp to 180 seems kinda high don't you think i would be think around 30 at most.

THis is defitnely something i have to look into.

[MessyHonda]

yeah i agree...you will not get a 80hp bump unless you rebuild the whole engine with an increased compression. ddraptor is right....30hp should be a good with a gude head package....anyways i want to see some dyno runs.

[FyreDaug]

Holy shit 1550? Thats US? Man thats crazy, for the amount of work they did you could do it yourself and save time. Maybe it wont be "professional" but itll cost you like 300 bucks

[MessyHonda]

Holy shit 1550? Thats US? Man thats crazy, for the amount of work they did you could do it yourself and save time. Maybe it wont be "professional" but itll cost you like 300 bucks

you can get a h22 droped in with 1600 bucks.

[gfrg88]

you can get a h22 droped in with 1600 bucks.


where at??? let me know cause i would definately give up 1600 bucks to get a h22 dropped in......

[87preludeA20A3]

I don't want to sound like a jerk.. but does anyone have any answers for my questions... I want to do this on my own in my school cylinder head class but i need info first... Eric do you have the head in use now? can you get specs from it or not?

[rjudgey]

If you check out my cardomain site that will give you some ideas on what to aim at as far as head work and chamber work goes, as far as valves, i use exhaust valves on all 12 valves, but the inlet valves are reduced from 35mm to 33mm which is a 3mm increase over stock size.
In my next heads i'm increasing the size of the exhaust valve from 35mm to 37mm but these have to be custom made but theres only four so it won't cost much.

[87preludeA20A3]

rjudgey What is your car domain, can you post a link to it for me...? That info helps alittle thanks...

[DDRaptor]

Hey If i were to just bore out the heads and not enlarging the valve sizes. THis mod could be done without a Lathe correct. ?

also what would you use to clean the valves cause in the pics there still some deposits on the valves.?

[rjudgey]

You can't really clean them, you can try sonic cleaning or maybe leaving them to soak in strong anti de-grease and then scrubbing with steel wire brush, this works okay on the inlet valves but the exhaust valves the only way to really clean those is to put them in a lathe and use wet and dry whilst rotating round there maybe some stronger stuff for industrial use but i doubt you can buy over the shelf.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/281725

Pics on here of everything i've done.

[87preludeA20A3]

I just had another thing pop into my head.. What valve springs are used in the intake side of that Gude head... Just use the exhaust ones like you use the exhaust valves....??? Thanks for the cardomain i'll check it out now... Man rjudgey you are an inspiration to me... You have done so much work to better your ludes and make your cars into something.. Awsome work keep it up and i hope to achieve what you have someday...

[rjudgey]

You can't use the exhaust springs on the intake because the intake retainers are only single springs as stock. If you hunt down a 2G accord head with ET1 engine code most of those of double springs all round which you could use instead on stock size inlet valves.