Naf's Update thread

[Nafs Asdf]

Woot, the bumper and lip got paintified today! :D
Left it to dry up, gonna go pick it up from the garage tomorrow and install it all.


That's my girls brother doing the paint, I cant be trusted with a paint gun :P

http://img111.imageshack.us/img111/1715/paintingbumper.jpg

[AccordB20A]

thats mint man. looking good cant wait to see pics of the completed product. your car has come a long way

[Nafs Asdf]

Behold, the bumper and lip has been installed!

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/4999/paintedlip1.jpg
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/4290/paintedlip2.jpg
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8/paintedlip3.jpg
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/6361/paintedlip5.jpg
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8360/paintedlip4.jpg


The cat liked it too ;)

Still have to figure out the license plate, wish I didn't have to put it on.

[2ndGenGuy]

Damn that looks good! Even the cat did a double-take was like DAYUM son! Don't put on the front plate! F that!

[AccordB20A]

i like it. and nice cat :)

and WOOOOO your thread got my 5000th post

[MessyHonda]

for me i dont really like colored style lips but on yours it does not look bad

[Hazwan]

Sexy!

[A18A]

looks staunch!!

[Nafs Asdf]

Damn that looks good! Even the cat did a double-take was like DAYUM son! Don't put on the front plate! F that!

Yeah, still I think I'll be a good law-abiding citizen and put it on. Don't want any unnecessary hassle.


i like it. and nice cat :)

and WOOOOO your thread got my 5000th post

Thanks and congrats :D


for me i dont really like colored style lips but on yours it does not look bad

thanks, I think... ;)


Sexy!


looks staunch!!

And more thanks :)

A closer pic of the paintjob, think it turned out damn good.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/5232/theshining.jpg

[epic1400cs]

Fabulous!!!

[Nafs Asdf]

Fabulous!!!

Thanks, tried to get some measurements of the ground clearance, but the yard being gravel and not really level makes it kinda hard to get clear numbers. Anyways the numbers where between 16 and 20 cm, but need to take better ones on level ground someday.


Today I changed out the faulty (or so I thought) ALB sensor for the one I got from A18, but still got the error code from the ALB ECU. So I went and bought a multimeter and started checking things out. Turned out the old sensor was within specs, and so was the new one. Wires also checked out all right.

Next thing to check for by the shop manual was the pulser air gap, but I have no idea how to check it or what it should be. Didn't find anything on it in the manual. I remember thegreatdane saying that it shouldn't be an issue unless there's something seriously bent, and doesn't look like there is.

After that the only thing the manual suggests is faulty control unit. Which could of course be the case. Some previous owner had removed the ALB warning light, so I switch it out for the emergency blinkers light to see how it behaved.

The ALB light should come on when the ignition is turned on, and should go off when the car is started. So I cleared the codes (the ALB self-diagnostics only takes place at speeds over 10 kph, so it shouldn't detect any errors before you start moving) and started the car but the ALB light stays on. So there is something else wrong.

All fuses look good, so either there are some faulty wires, either of the fail-safe relays are shot or the control unit is fried... Guess I need to start hunting for open/shorted wires, any tips on how to go about this?


Oh yeah, also fixed a little thing that's been bothering me. My cruise control button wouldn't turn off, it was stuck in the on position. Took it out and just pressed the button in and out for a few minutes and sure enough, it started working again. Think it had just seized up a bit from not being used.

[epic1400cs]

When you start your motor, at stand still, do you hear any pumping noise from the ABS compressor? When I bought mine, ABS was working, and the compressor does pumping about a minute, then when it reaches certain pressure, the compressor stops pumping. If you don't hear the compressor pumping, either fuse in the engine room is shot, compressor is shot or something is shot I guess. In my case was opposite, after few years, the compressor started pumping forever like rabbit as there seems to be fault somewhere so I decided to kill the ABS by removing fuse in the engine room, and in the cabin plus remove warning light in the dash. I am no ABS pro so I don't know more than this. About Honda ABS from this period, either NSX or Legend online forum in US has good info but sorry I can't find the link.

[Civic Accord Honda]

nice!!1

[Nafs Asdf]

http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/7112/wheeloff.jpg

I found out that I'm retarded.

There is no pulser gear ring on the right side CV joint, someone must have replaced it with a non-ALB one at some point. Which would explain why my diagnostics stop at "check pulser air gap"... That would explain the sensor error code, but still need to figure out why the ALB light doesn't go off after starting the car.

epic1400cs, do you have the underhood fusebox diagram for ALB models? As mine is gone and I have no idea which fuse and relay is which.

Checked the right side too, and that one has the pulser. I'm about to replace that one tho, but I checked the new joint I have and the pulser is different. They have different number of teeth.

I know the ALB system was changed from 87 to 88 and apparently I have a CV joint for the earlier version. Shop I bought it from said it was for 87-90, they must have got it wrong.

There's a chance I might be taking a shot at changing out the left side joint tomorrow anyway, cause the old one is clicking pretty bad. The ALBs aren't going to work until I can get a new joint for the right side anyhow.

[Nafs Asdf]

Didn't get the joint chnged today, but I found what seems to be the right joints on UK ebay. I asked the seller and the ALB rings have 50 teeth, I think the wrong one I have has 100 teeth. So I think I'll order a pair of those.

And a pic, washed and waxed it today. Still haven't gotten around to mounting the license plate...

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/6043/waxed.jpg

[Tomisimo]

Man I like your car.. look sexy indeed..
I wish I had money to respray my car

[Rendon LX-i]

sexy

[Nafs Asdf]

Man I like your car.. look sexy indeed..
I wish I had money to respray my car


sexy


Thanks, wish I had the money to respray this one (again) too. Cause the bumper came out so much better than what we managed last time with the whole car. Maybe in a year or two.

[ESDEEZ]

I love ur car so much.... :D

[Nafs Asdf]

I love ur car so much.... :D

yay :)


Got the license plate mounted.

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/1764/plate1.jpg

[Tomisimo]

Yes I see a mate surface there on the bonnet, You can try and wet sand it with P2000 sand paper. and polish it after.
But it looks sexy anyway!!

[Nafs Asdf]

Yes I see a mate surface there on the bonnet, You can try and wet sand it with P2000 sand paper. and polish it after.
But it looks sexy anyway!!

Yeah, there are some spots like that. Pictures do a pretty good job of hiding it tho, as you mentioned yourself.

I've been thinking about doing a bit of sanding/polishing on it, just afraid I'll go through the paint.

[Tomisimo]

BTW have you seen my photoshoot thread?

Well if you afraid to sand true, dos it 2 cote or one cote of paint and clear?

[Nafs Asdf]

BTW have you seen my photoshoot thread?

Well if you afraid to sand true, dos it 2 cote or one cote of paint and clear?

Yeah just forgot to post in it, looking good :)

There's no clear coat on it. Thing is when we painted it, the first time (think we did three coats) it come out so damn bumpy that we sanded it back down. And of course some spots got sanded more than others. Then we painted it again and got almost two coats on before we ran out of paint, which is why it didn't come out that good. Another coat of paint and it would've been a lot better. Had to leave it like that because we didn't have any more time, we only had a week to do all the rust and body work and the paint.

But to answer your question, some spots have maybe 4 coats and some at the most two...

[Tomisimo]

I see.. well than rather save some money and repaint it again, and clear it on top, 2-3 cotes. so you have some play with sanding and polish later on.. Thats why I'm gona doo, after all rust repairs.

[b20a86lude]

dude that is sick do u knw if that . lip would fit one 2nd gen prelude?

[Nafs Asdf]

I see.. well than rather save some money and repaint it again, and clear it on top, 2-3 cotes. so you have some play with sanding and polish later on.. Thats why I'm gona doo, after all rust repairs.

The paint used doesn't need clear coat, the bumper wasn't cleared either and that came out real nice.

I've been thinking to try the sanding/polishing if I can find 2000 grit paper somewhere, the highest I've got is 1200 and that's not fine enough. Probably gonna test doing it on something small like the fuel door first.



dude that is sick do u knw if that . lip would fit one 2nd gen prelude?

Probably not without modification. Couldn't say for sure.

[Tomisimo]

same shit here, cant find finer than 1200 also.. I want to polish my tail lights and clear those, but for plastic you'll need 1200first and 2000 for finish. and no luck.. Hmm, maybe US have some?

[Nafs Asdf]

same shit here, cant find finer than 1200 also.. I want to polish my tail lights and clear those, but for plastic you'll need 1200first and 2000 for finish. and no luck.. Hmm, maybe US have some?

I've found a webshop here in Finland that's got it, can't remember what it was tho. Need to google it up again some day.

[markmdz89hatch]

same shit here, cant find finer than 1200 also.. I want to polish my tail lights and clear those, but for plastic you'll need 1200first and 2000 for finish. and no luck.. Hmm, maybe US have some?

of course we do. it's a pain in the ass to find sometimes, but it's around, and cheap enough.

[epic1400cs]

epic1400cs, do you have the underhood fusebox diagram for ALB models? As mine is gone and I have no idea which fuse and relay is which.
Hope it helps - took pic from right side of the car. Right hand side of the picture is the front. My car is 3dr Aerodeck but I am pretty sure this is same as 4dr cos as you can see it list rear power window that doesn't exist on Aerodeck.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/3136/1861/7838430259_large.jpg

[Nafs Asdf]

Thanks man, that's great! :D
The aerodeck should have the same label (I checked the EPC), yours is an 89 too right?

Went and took a pic of the fusebox to compare, everything seems to be in place. Altho the ACG and injector fuses have been replaced with too large ones (20A). Gonna have to get some with the right amperage for those.

http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/7541/fuses.jpg

Edit: need to do a flip-up headlight conversion and get AC so I can fill all the holes in there ;)

[epic1400cs]

Thanks man, that's great! :D
The aerodeck should have the same label (I checked the EPC), yours is an 89 too right?

Went and took a pic of the fusebox to compare, everything seems to be in place. Altho the ACG and injector fuses have been replaced with too large ones (20A). Gonna have to get some with the right amperage for those.

Edit: need to do a flip-up headlight conversion and get AC so I can fill all the holes in there ;)
No problem. Yes, mine is 89, too. If everything is there for ALB, I would check the fuses with electric tester just on the safe side - tiny crack on the fuse can't be visible but still manage to cause a trouble.

About the number of the tooth on the drive shaft, indeed there are two types. You might be able to find out which one is for yours from EPC by typing in your chasis serial number but not sure. may be honda dealer parts dept. might be able to confirm? When I did mine, I simply count the number of it.

AC would be nice! Does 4dr saloon EXi (A20A4 injection) appear on ebay or jy for parts in your country? EXi tend to have AC fitted from factory. I am not sure if you will need it in your area though!

[Nafs Asdf]

No problem. Yes, mine is 89, too. If everything is there for ALB, I would check the fuses with electric tester just on the safe side - tiny crack on the fuse can't be visible but still manage to cause a trouble.

About the number of the tooth on the drive shaft, indeed there are two types. You might be able to find out which one is for yours from EPC by typing in your chasis serial number but not sure. may be honda dealer parts dept. might be able to confirm? When I did mine, I simply count the number of it.

AC would be nice! Does 4dr saloon EXi (A20A4 injection) appear on ebay or jy for parts in your country? EXi tend to have AC fitted from factory. I am not sure if you will need it in your area though!

AC is freaking rare on older cars around here. It's really only a couple months a year that's hot enough to want it.

I'm pretty sure the older models have 100 tooth ABS joints, and the 88-89 have 50. The one on the car had about twice as wide teeth as the new part I had. Which by the way I was able to return for a full refund :). They would've had the right joint too, or been able to order it but I had already found them for half as much on UK ebay. Ordered two of those so I'll get both sides done.

I haven't asked at the Honda dealership, but I doubt they'd know anything. Would probably have to order the thing for 250 euro and count them myself.

The ebay ones cost £50.40 shipped for two, so not a bad price.

Well I spent a couple hours going through the ALB shit, I'll post something about that in a while. I could use some tips on checking wires and fuses with a multimeter tho, all I know how to do is check for continuity... Don't know if there's something else I need to check.

[epic1400cs]

I remember mine were 50 tooth, too, so should be the same I hope. Good luck!

[Nafs Asdf]

Thanks :)


As I said, I was messing around with the ALBs today or well, did the trouble shooting for the ALB light not turning off. Which goes as such:

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/8575/albtroubleshooting.jpg

Ok, so the plug seems to be stuck in there pretty good. In fact it was quite hard to pull out.

ALB 2 fuse looked good

There was continuity in the white wire between the control unit and ALB 2 fuse. I assume this means it's ok, if not please correct me.

But then, I didn't get continuity from the fail safe relays and no. 17 fuse. Which is the front left power window fuse. The ALB wiring diagram doesn't show how they're connected, so I looked up the power window diagram. From what I understand the circuit I need to check goes through the ignition but that's beyond what I comprehend.

I need some car electronics 101, please.

Here are the wiring diagrams.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3820/albwiring.jpg

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3513/windowdiagram.jpg

[AccordB20A]

fack im glad i dont have ALB. Just make sure that fail safe relay is good thats why my old cars ALB light was on.

[Nafs Asdf]

fack im glad i dont have ALB. Just make sure that fail safe relay is good thats why my old cars ALB light was on.

My problem is that the light is on after i start the car even when not showing any error code (self-diagnostics don't kick in before you go 10 km/h). The light should go off, but doesn't. And the only error code I get after driving is the front left sensor because I got the wrong CV joint.

Yeah, I gotta look up how to check the relays again, remember seeing it in one of the manuals.

[Nafs Asdf]

Is there such a thing as a diagram over where the different ground points are located? I've got a hunch (most likely way off but wanna check it anyway) that the G7 point in the above ALB circuit might not be grounded.

Would be great if someone had a diagram that would show where it's at.

[Nafs Asdf]

Repainted my side and rear window trim today, and well... There was both success and failure.

Rear trim turned out good, car's dirty tho.
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/6504/winf.jpg
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/4601/win2s.jpg


But then, fail... :rant:
I learned my lesson. DO NOT USE SILICON SPRAY!
At least not near stuff that will be painted later, I had used it on the rubber stripping, and the trim got it's share too it seems. So I'll have to strip off the paint someday and go at it again.

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/9163/failm.jpg
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/6633/fail2.jpg

[Tomisimo]

umm agreed.. but before painting normally you use silicone stripper. non alcohol substance. to avoid that. Well just sand it down and do it again :)

[AccordB20A]

Mint but fail, at least it can be fixed. nice sony rear speakers

[Nafs Asdf]

Well I got the sudden urge top polish up the cam sensor a bit more :D

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/8126/polished4.jpg

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/1305/polished5.jpg


Also did a bit on the lude dizzy.

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/3428/polished6.jpg



I've a new cap and rotor on the way for the dizzy, when I get it I need to get myself to swapping over the electronic ignition, which kinda scares me as I have no real idea of what I'm doing. Well most of the stuff is pretty straight forward, but the ecu wring confuses me. Also need to figure out how to re-pin the ecu plugs.

[thegreatdane]

when the car is started or the ignition is on make sure each black wire from the fail safe relays have ground connections. Put one of your voltmeter probes to the battery positive terminal and the other to each fail safe relays black wire. You should see 12v.

There is a mistake in the trouble shooting diagram. fuse 17 has nothing to do with alb. it's supposed to say fuse no. 12 and blk/yel wire.

according to my wiring diagram ground 7 is located in the front left of the engine bay. May not be correct though as the ground diagrams are from '87 and your ALB is from '88.

[Nafs Asdf]

Thanks, I've been waiting for you to come in and rescue me. Need to try those out.

Tried polishing up the visors (well one of them so far), turned out pretty nice. Couldn't really see anything through them before.


Before (wrong side but they all looked the same):

http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/636/beforeziw.jpg




After:

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/2054/photo5n.jpg
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/8905/photolja.jpg
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/6669/photo2nua.jpg
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/2709/photo3s.jpg
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/7742/photo4orn.jpg

[epic1400cs]

The visor looks great! Did you polish with rubbing compound with machine or by hand?
Mine has similar frosty surface plus many tiny cracks all over. I may need to spray clear to get rid of those cracks.

[Nafs Asdf]

The visor looks great! Did you polish with rubbing compound with machine or by hand?
Mine has similar frosty surface plus many tiny cracks all over. I may need to spray clear to get rid of those cracks.

I used this (http://www.woodnwhimsies.com/Micromesh%20Sanding%20Set.html?__utma=1.2138645974 .1249725111.1249725111.1249725111.1&__utmb=1&__utmc=1&__utmx=-&__utmz=1.1249725111.1.1.utmccn%3D%28referral%29%7C utmcsr%3Dpaypal.com%7Cutmcct%3D%2Ffi%2Fcgi-bin%2Fwebscr%7Cutmcmd%3Dreferral&__utmv=-&__utmk=15451191).
Then used some car polish/wax I had laying around to finish it up. No need for clearcoat.

[AccordB20A]

i love it

[Tomisimo]

yea, but it will be best to protect those with clear cote.. it will not fade as fast.

[b20a86lude]

o my ga i love the fact that u reapinted ur moldings what did u use also id like to know wat u did to poilsh up ur crank sensor please let me know im intrested step by step

[Nafs Asdf]

o my ga i love the fact that u reapinted ur moldings what did u use also id like to know wat u did to poilsh up ur crank sensor please let me know im intrested step by step

Thanks, but could you please try to put together a bit more coherent sentences, and use more real words? It's a pain to have to read through every one of your posts three or four times before I puzzle together what you're talking about.

About the polishing, I used the micromesh stuff I posted a link to a couple posts back. First use coarse sandpaper or a wire brush or whatever you got handy to get the 20 years of crap off of it. Then I think I used 240 and 320 grit paper before going through the different grits of the micromesh sanding down the scratches from the previous grit with the next one. When you get towards the higher grits you get that mirror look. Then I finished it off with a car wax with polishing compound in it.

This is really the first thing I've ever polished up like this so I might not have it all figured out. I'm pretty much just going by trial and error and seeing what works and what doesnt. Before I bought the micromesh I tried a bunch of different approaches, but this one seems the best so far.

[Tomisimo]

yes.. but fingers get sore after this.. I tried that before on my bike

Here is what is on christmas list :P
http://www.elexp.com/tools/3956.jpg
se that handle with torq tube? This is most genious invention that is for this job..

[Nafs Asdf]

yes.. but fingers get sore after this.. I tried that before on my bike

Here is what is on christmas list :P
http://www.elexp.com/tools/3956.jpg
se that handle with torq tube? This is most genious invention that is for this job..


I've got one of those (not a dremel, a cheapo one) with the extension thing and I think most of the stuff in that pic. But there's nothing in there that would polish it up as good as I got it with the micro mesh. I did spend a bunch of time with that too, the first pics I posted of the polished cam sensor were after I did it with the dremelwannabe.

[Tomisimo]

thats because usually it sels with grinding kit not polishing kit, but if you have polishing wool wheels with polishing paste and micromesh fine sand paper rools, you can do anything, you want believe places you can polish and get to.. and yas, everything else but Dremel SUCKS, by my own experiance..

[AccordB20A]

i r need a dremel!

[Nafs Asdf]

when the car is started or the ignition is on make sure each black wire from the fail safe relays have ground connections. Put one of your voltmeter probes to the battery positive terminal and the other to each fail safe relays black wire. You should see 12v.

There is a mistake in the trouble shooting diagram. fuse 17 has nothing to do with alb. it's supposed to say fuse no. 12 and blk/yel wire.

according to my wiring diagram ground 7 is located in the front left of the engine bay. May not be correct though as the ground diagrams are from '87 and your ALB is from '88.


Fuse 12 to blk/yel wire checked out, and I got 12+ volts on each fail safe relay ground. So what's left is either wires to the warning light are shorted or the ecu is fried. Need to take out the gauge cluster and check those wires.

[MessyHonda]

i hate how the visors fade back...i have yet to find something that will last longer than 2 months

[b20a86lude]

nice keep it up

[Nafs Asdf]

Been a while, finally got something done. Got rid of the squeeking from the front right suspension, changed the uca and bushings. Still need to get the danm cv joints swapped and the front should be noise-free. :D

No pics, so use your imagination. ;)

Getting the UCA out went fairly smoothly, except for my shitty ball joint remover not wanting to cooperate, but got it to work after cursing a bit. Was surprised at how easily the nuts and bolts came off, but that joy only lasted until I tried to get the bolt out of the collar. Took it's fair share of wd 40 and abuse to get it out. Which kinda sucked since I didn't have new ones (only had the arm itself and the bushings), but I cleaned the bolt up and got it going through the collar without too much obstruction. Also had to reuse the end seals and o-rings, the o-rings looked fine but the seals had seen better days. Anyhow, greased 'em up real good before putting it all back together.

One thing I didn't manage to do was getting the long bolt out of the anchor bolt... That bitch was stuck like it was welded there. So I had to assemble it with the two of them stuck together, wasn't easy to get the two anchor bolts aligned when tightening it down. The one on the nut side would move with the lock nut being tightened, while the one on the bolt side wouldn't, and if I did move it the nut would unwind... I kinda got them there finally, just hope I got it tight enough.

Putting it back on the car was a simple enough deal, went just fine.

Payed 30 euro for the uca (555) at a parts store and 8 euro a piece for the bushings (don't know the brand, but made in japan at least). I know you guys get OEM stuff for that price, but around here that's about as cheap as it gets :(.

And yeah, I know the bolt and seals and nuts and everything should be replaced but I don't feel like going to Honda and paying probably around 5 euro each for the nuts, 15 for the bolt, and god knows how much they'd charge for the seals, end caps, collar and o-rings, wouldn't be surprised if they'd sum up to around 50 euro...

[Nafs Asdf]

Woot, updateage.

Well, not really... I just replaced my windshield washer nozzles for some unpainted ones (they were painted with the rest of the car). Think they look better now. It's dark outside so no pics of them now.

And yeah, me and a buddy tried replacing my CV joints but couldn't get past the lower ball joints. Just bent the shit out of my ball joint puller (cheap POS). So I picked up a better quality one and we're gonna try again later.

And the JDM PJ5 ecu/electronic advance ignition project is moving slowly forward. Bought a (almost) complete wiring loom from someone parting out a B20, along with extra ecu connectors from an A20, mostly to get a picture of how the wiring's set up and to have spare connectors and stuff.

But as I'm a total noob to this, I don't really know what the best way to go about this would be. And the fact that the car is daily driven also poses a problem. Can't just rip shit out and tinker with it for days/weeks.

What I have ahead of me is: Replace old dizzy/cam sensor with new along with the new ignition module, remove EGR, remove useless shit in black box, modify ecu plugs (or make a conversion harness) to fit the JDM ecu. I figured since I'm ditching the EGR I should get the wires I need to add for the ignition from that, so I won't have to add any new ones.

If you see something I've forgotten, please tell.

So... I think I know what needs to be done, but I don't have all the details figured out.
A pinout for the PJ5 (BA1 lude) ecu would be great (probably doesn't exist).

Any tips on de/re-pinning the ecu connectors is greatly appreciated. And I need to figure out which wires go where under the hood too.

[Nafs Asdf]

And a random pic of the car.

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/8441/randompic.jpg

[Hazwan]

That sir, is SEX!

[Mellexx]

That sir, is SEX!

What he said^^ :D

[Civic Accord Honda]

very nice my good man

[AccordB20A]

i hear your car runs on the pj5 lude ecu now, might be time to install the dizzy and ignitor and have the electronic ignition side of the ecu working too :)

[Nafs Asdf]

Thanks guys :)


And yeah, it "runs" on the PJ5 ecu ;)

Well it does run, but of course it's not going to run good with all the other stuff missing. So I'm swapping the original back until I get the rest sorted out. Was good testing it tho. Missing all the stuff I guess threw the ecu into quirks mode, since it limits the revs at 4k rpm, and ran pretty choppy too at around 2k rpm. Also Idled at over 1k, and started dropping the revs to almost 0 and lifting them back up after warming up.

[markmdz89hatch]

I really really like this car. Very nice, and love how clean it's kept. Good luck on all that ECU stuff.

[Nafs Asdf]

Thanks Mark :)


Here's a couple pics of the ecus, quite a difference.

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/4657/ecu2a.jpg

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/8850/ecuu.jpg

The EDM ecu is a PH3-X04. KX model, which confirms that this car is indeed from Switzerland originally. The bottom plate where the ecu screws on in the car was nice enough to have the right holes for both ecus. :D

While I had the seat out I took the opportunity to vacuum all of that crap out, so no bitching about it being dirty. ;)

[Nafs Asdf]

Took the spoiler off the A16 (it would've come off by itself sooner or later anyway) and I tried it on on the B20. And I think I like it... I always thought it looked kinda naked after I took the rotted ducktail off of it, and now it's all dressed up again. Well kinda, need to get some double sided tape or something to stick it on there with, in the pics it just lays on top of the lid.

What do you guys think?

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/8717/spoiler3m.jpg
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/4998/spoilercl.jpg
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6961/spoiler2v.jpg

[markmdz89hatch]

me likes.

[2drSE-i]

Me too!

[Nafs Asdf]

:) As soon as I get it cleaned up and get something to stick it on there with, I'll put it on.

Killed a some time with a sketching app I got for the iphone... It's kinda hard to draw with a brush 1/10th the size of the finger you draw with ;)
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6853/hondasketch.png

[markmdz89hatch]

:) As soon as I get it cleaned up and get something to stick it on there with, I'll put it on.

Killed a some time with a sketching app I got for the iphone... It's kinda hard to draw with a brush 1/10th the size of the finger you draw with ;)
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6853/hondasketch.png

Dude, someone smashed the mirror right off your drivers side.

Nice sketch man, I like it.

[Rendon LX-i]

LOL^^^ i just noticed that mark........What a wonderful car man.

[AccordB20A]

cool stuff dude, and about that ecu, its not its original case, the other one was rusted, hence why it doesnt have the OEM MT stamp on the ECU

[Nafs Asdf]

cool stuff dude, and about that ecu, its not its original case, the other one was rusted, hence why it doesnt have the OEM MT stamp on the ECU

ok, is the part with the serial/part number on it still original and just the cover has been replaced?

[Nafs Asdf]

LOL^^^ i just noticed that mark........What a wonderful car man.


Dude, someone smashed the mirror right off your drivers side.

Nice sketch man, I like it.


Haha, yeah I noticed... I had it on there but must've erased it by mistake.

Thanks guys! :D

[Nafs Asdf]

Woot, finally got the CV joints replaced. No more clicking :D

The left joint came off after a few taps with a hammer, but on the right one we had to switch to plan B after about an hour of trying to hammer it off. Plan B was to bust out the angle grinder, 5 mins later the joint was loose. Other than that everything went just fine, old ones out - new ones in. Oh, and I think I might be related to superman... I opened up the spindle nut on the right side with one arm (weaker one too), sitting on the floor in front of it. So either I was born on krypton, or the spindle nut was somehow loose as hell, might be why I had been feeling a bit of play when jiggling the wheel back and forth.


Put my winter tires on at the same time, so now the car looks slightly more boring, sporting stock and not so clean wheels. Gonna look even more boring when I put the center caps on.

Anyway, a pic... I apologize for it being even crappier than usual.
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/4098/winterwheels.jpg

[AccordB20A]

pooo gay heavy oem wheels they weigh a tonne ow

[Nafs Asdf]

Put the spoiler on today, left to see if it'll stay on... The instructions on the tape said not to use in under 10° C, and it's like 3 degrees outside. Felt as if it stuck pretty good tho.

And pics:
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/362/photor.jpg


http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/6089/photo2zd.jpg


http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/729/photo3q.jpg


http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6026/photo4t.jpg


http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/3279/photo5wy.jpg


http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/6206/photo6cl.jpg


http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/656/photo7n.jpg

[markmdz89hatch]

very very nice

[Tomisimo]

I like that spoiler allot!!

About your wheels, you can have my also original 14s, but they look way way better than those you have on now..

[Nafs Asdf]

very very nice


I like that spoiler allot!!

About your wheels, you can have my also original 14s, but they look way way better than those you have on now..

Thanks guys, I'm pleased with it myself too.

I know the wheels are in horrid shape, but they ride fine. Would need to be polished up a bit. Tom, you're welcome to bring those wheels over anytime ;)

[thegreatdane]

Looking real good! I'm not sure if I'm too big a fan of that rear spoiler though. Are you planning on painting it?
Did you ever get that ALB crap working btw?

[Nafs Asdf]

Looking real good! I'm not sure if I'm too big a fan of that rear spoiler though. Are you planning on painting it?
Did you ever get that ALB crap working btw?

Actually I thought I'd keep this one black, and it'd be a bitch to paint it since I blasted it with silicone spray after cleaning it... Let me guess, the one time I leave something black you want it painted? ;)

The jury is still out on the ALB crap... Haven't gotten around to checking all the wires yet, think were I left off was with the wires to the gauge cluster. After that it's pretty much just ecu failure left as the cause according to the manual. Of course I don't know if the hydraulic parts work either, but that shouldn't have anything to do with the ALB light as it's not giving any codes.

That reminds me, I need to reset the ALB ecu and check that the code for the front right sensor went away with swapping on the correct CV joint.

[Tomisimo]

Well I use to drive tru finland once a month, but I'm way up north, between Sweeden and Norway, you know that strech from Karesuando to kautokeino.. I can grab my wheels when I'm down south, I ment wheels from my gray car.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k313/Tomisimo/My%20Honda/Fotka074.jpg
they are 14s, with center cups but they were off because I had to long bolts, it didnt cleared them.. some polishing and paint, they will look way better than those, Corvete inspired you have now..

[Nafs Asdf]

Yeah, might be a bit too far from here. Anyways, I have been thinking about getting some new wheels for next summer, gonna need new tires too as the ones I have are running on their last leg.

Here's a set I've been looking at... There's a couple of mint sets of them for sale but the asking prices are pretty steep, 600/750 euro. Both would have decent tires on them tho.
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7825/pa240039.jpg

If I do get these or any other wheels I'll probably make the summer wheels I got now my winter wheels.

[thegreatdane]

Actually I thought I'd keep this one black, and it'd be a bitch to paint it since I blasted it with silicone spray after cleaning it... Let me guess, the one time I leave something black you want it painted? ;)

lol I cant help it. I just have to be mr. opposite :D
I can see painting it now would make a mess though haha. I guess the reason I seem to think painted would look better is because of the german edition25 sedans that all had color matched ducktails which looked pretty pretty


The jury is still out on the ALB crap... Haven't gotten around to checking all the wires yet, think were I left off was with the wires to the gauge cluster. After that it's pretty much just ecu failure left as the cause according to the manual. Of course I don't know if the hydraulic parts work either, but that shouldn't have anything to do with the ALB light as it's not giving any codes.

That reminds me, I need to reset the ALB ecu and check that the code for the front right sensor went away with swapping on the correct CV joint.

Damn that cursed ALB system! Well it's a pretty basic system so you should be able to find the cause.
Have you checked all ECU grounds and positives? (check at the ecu connector)
Have you tried running the pump motor manually?
have you tried activating the solenoids manually (in and out) and also measured their resistance?
Have you tried yanking out all 3 related relays and tested them?
Have you checked the alternator signal at the ecu?

[Tomisimo]

I cant see any pick of your wanted wheels.. Yea I have a same problem, I'm planning on new wheels for summer, but well see, if I can manage that, i have a neat idea for what I want but it depends on how deep the pocket is.. I have to by new winter tires now, and I dont want nothing cheap when it comes to tires, as you know, here up north you need good ones. So Hakka 5 it is.. but they run me 120Ero a piece.

[Civic Accord Honda]

get thoses new summer wheels!! they be hella fresh :D

i like the spolier! looks good ^_^

[Rendon LX-i]

^^amen

[Nafs Asdf]

lol I cant help it. I just have to be mr. opposite :D
I can see painting it now would make a mess though haha. I guess the reason I seem to think painted would look better is because of the german edition25 sedans that all had color matched ducktails which looked pretty pretty


Damn that cursed ALB system! Well it's a pretty basic system so you should be able to find the cause.
Have you checked all ECU grounds and positives? (check at the ecu connector)
Have you tried running the pump motor manually?
have you tried activating the solenoids manually (in and out) and also measured their resistance?
Have you tried yanking out all 3 related relays and tested them?
Have you checked the alternator signal at the ecu?

Yeah, I know. Mine had the color matched ducktail and apart from being all rotten it was pretty. I did think about painting it red, but when I test fitted it I thought it looked good being black so I left it like that.

About the ALBs, I'm not exactly sure what I've done. I've gone through the steps on troubleshooting the ALB light from the shop manual, which mainly just seems to be to check if the wires are ok.

How do I check all these things you listed?

[Nafs Asdf]

I cant see any pick of your wanted wheels.. Yea I have a same problem, I'm planning on new wheels for summer, but well see, if I can manage that, i have a neat idea for what I want but it depends on how deep the pocket is.. I have to by new winter tires now, and I dont want nothing cheap when it comes to tires, as you know, here up north you need good ones. So Hakka 5 it is.. but they run me 120Ero a piece.

Strange, it's hosted on imageshack so don't see a reason why you wouldn't see it. They're OZ Superturismo WRC's.

Yea, I know about needing good tires up there.


get thoses new summer wheels!! they be hella fresh :D

i like the spolier! looks good ^_^


^^amen

Thanks :)

[Nafs Asdf]

A bit of an update on the ALBs...

I reset the ECU and there was no more codes, so the CV joint replacement fixed that. But the ALB light is still on continuously.

We got our first snow last night, not a lot but the roads were a bit icy at some places when we were out with the car a while ago. So there was an icy spot just before an intersection, and as I braked the brakes locked up... And damn was I surprised when I suddenly got kickback from the pedal, as the ALB light is still on meaning the ALB system should not be in function. It felt kinda weak and a bit sluggish, maybe it's just the fact that the system isn't quite as good as on newer cars, could also be that the ALBs need bleeding. Sucks that it can't be done without the special ALB checker, which also could verify that the hydraulics work like they should. Guess I should ask what the local Honda Dealership would charge to check it out and replace/bleed the fluids.

Need to do some more testing as it gets colder and more icy here, it got pretty sunny now so this first "winter" is melting away.

Still the ALB light being on is strange, maybe it is just a short in the gauge cluster or the wires going to it after all. Have to look into that a bit more when I got the time.

[markmdz89hatch]

I don't mean to sound stupid, but can you confirm the master if topped off? I wonder if it could just be a little low on fluid. Good to know the ABS/ALB kicked in when you needed it though.

[Nafs Asdf]

I don't mean to sound stupid, but can you confirm the master if topped off? I wonder if it could just be a little low on fluid. Good to know the ABS/ALB kicked in when you needed it though.

Both brake fluid reservoirs are topped off, the alb fluid looks pretty yucky but should be enough of it there anyway. I need to get the fluids flushed, but I wanna figure out the alb light before I take it to get that done.

[thegreatdane]

Yeah, I know. Mine had the color matched ducktail and apart from being all rotten it was pretty. I did think about painting it red, but when I test fitted it I thought it looked good being black so I left it like that.

About the ALBs, I'm not exactly sure what I've done. I've gone through the steps on troubleshooting the ALB light from the shop manual, which mainly just seems to be to check if the wires are ok.

How do I check all these things you listed?

Lol weird that it's actually working and you didnt find out until now. And it's actually preventing the wheels from locking up? The pedal kickback should be substantial so if there's only little then you'd be right to get that stuff flushed through with new brake fluid and get whatever air is in there out.
You might be lucky that the honda garage will let you rent or borrow that star trek control panel because it's such an old tool that never gets used anymore.
You COULD do it manually without it I suppose. You just have to study the shopmanual to see how everything works so you know when and which solenoids you have to activate when running the pump motor.

About that list, is everything gibberish to you or just some of it? Do you understand the basic electrics stuff on how to use a voltmeter, ohmmeter and such? Because then I can explain the parts you dont understand a bit further. I dont want to start with how to use a voltmeter lol

[Nafs Asdf]

Lol weird that it's actually working and you didnt find out until now. And it's actually preventing the wheels from locking up? The pedal kickback should be substantial so if there's only little then you'd be right to get that stuff flushed through with new brake fluid and get whatever air is in there out.

Well it's doing something... I might have to go find a dirt road to test it more, cause now it's looking like it's gonna be some time before the real winter gets here. What it felt like was that the wheels did lock up, and then the ALBs kicked the pedal back twice. Couldn't say for sure it did enough to unlock the wheels. I'll need to try more lock-braking to find out if it's really doing anything.


You might be lucky that the honda garage will let you rent or borrow that star trek control panel because it's such an old tool that never gets used anymore.
You COULD do it manually without it I suppose. You just have to study the shopmanual to see how everything works so you know when and which solenoids you have to activate when running the pump motor.

Yeah, I've been hoping that too. But mainly I just hope that they have the thing in the first place.

Well I guess it might be possible to do it manually too, but I'll leave that as a last option for if a) they don't have the ALB tool anymore, or b) they'd charge me up the ass for it.


About that list, is everything gibberish to you or just some of it? Do you understand the basic electrics stuff on how to use a voltmeter, ohmmeter and such? Because then I can explain the parts you dont understand a bit further. I dont want to start with how to use a voltmeter lol

Well none of it is gibberish, I understand what you say and know what I need to do in theory, but when it comes down to sticking the probes of the multimeter somewhere I don't know where to stick them and what exactly I want to measure.

So I guess what I need is "set multimeter at ohm/volts/amperes/whatever, put probes 'here' and 'here', is the reading 'this'? If not do 'this'.

And as for the pump motor/solenoids, I guess I need to connect 12V to them to test them out, but same thing there. Where do I connect + and - and do I need to do anything else? And same for the relays, which pins do I check what at and so on...



And now for something completely different.

Was browsing through my pics, and saw I had some shots from about the same angle from both 1.5 years ago when I ot the car, and more recent times. So I thought I'd put together a before and after kinda thing, feel free to share any thoughts on whether it's gotten better or worse. :)

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6974/beforeaftero.jpg

[Nafs Asdf]

And one more from the front.

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/3113/beforeafter2.jpg

[Mellexx]

Your car looks great :D I typically don't like white rims but they look great on your car.

[Nafs Asdf]

Thread continued here (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70871).

Figured I'd put a link in here to tie things together.

[stezie]

Lovely car, well done... I only had time to look at your first few pages and noticed you said this on your first page..

- Retractable antenna isn't working, the motor is turning but nothing happens.

Have you sorted this yet, because I know what wrong.. its simple to put right, just real awkward to get at..

I don't have any pics so will try to describe by word.. if anything is unclear just ask.

First of, the re-tractor cord for the aerial is coiled around, in what can be described as a bowl, and that bowl is turned by the electric motor. What happens is that water can travel down the re-tractor cord to the "bowl" and cant get out because the drain pipe is blocked with years of crud. This crud can then cause the "bowl" to corrode.

You will need to pull out the electric motor, and take apart the bowl and give it a good cleaning, there is a good chance that the bowl is heavily corroded and is touching the sides, hence why it wont turn with the electric motor. All you hear is the clicking of the motor right??

you wont like where the aerial motor is though.. it is up on the bulk head, behind the dash, right above the fuse box. I had to unplug all the wires to the fuse box and remove the fuse box before I had access to the electric aerial motor.

It is a bit awkward to get at, but at least all the plugs are different, so you shouldn't get any mixed up and it took me about an hour to get the motor out, about 1 or so giving it a good clean and then about another 1 putting it back in.

[Nafs Asdf]

Yeah, that was 2 year ago. Havent really given the antenna much thought since then. Ive just read that its a pain to get to and since it's not a big deal to shove it in / pull it out the few times I need to I've just left it be.

I'm not sure mine has the same problem as your. The motor sounds perfectly fine, it doesn't click as you said. It sounds perfectly normal it just doesn't move. I'm sure the antenna being quite a bit bent doesn't help either.

[stezie]

Ah ok, if you can move it in and out by hand and the motor spins freely then the re-tractor cord has been broken/or disconnected from the motor itself im guessing.

[Nafs Asdf]

Yeah, that sounds about right. Maybe I'll look into it once the snow is gone and things warm up. Which by the way things are looking is gonna be around mid-July. :rant: