Naf's Update thread [Archive] - 3geez.com - Classic Honda Accord & Prelude Forum

Nafs Asdf

04-14-2008, 11:55 AM

I wanted to have one of these threads too :)

First off, some info about the car for those who haven't read my introduction thread.

It's a 1989 2.0-16 4W ALB, originally imported to Finland from somewhere in Europe, the car is the French type according to the plate in the engine compartment but might just as well originate from any of the surrounding French-speaking countries (update, I'm almost certain it's Switzerland)... The engine is a B20A8, which means it's got emissions components unlike the Finnish version (B20A2), and thus a bit less power. Other differences are exhaust manifold and compression ratio. Only thing it really lacks accessory-wise is A/C, other than that it's got pretty much all you can get. Cruise control, power windows/locks/mirrors/steering, seat heater, ALB, headlight wipers... That should be most of it. With about 270,000 km on the clock, I'm guessing she's got a mid-life crisis coming on?

So, here we go.
She needs a good wash, no good doing it yet with the weather we've been having here. In the past three weeks or so the snow's melted three or four times and snowed back a few days later. Also needs a paint job, right now the both rear wheel arches are just red primer... Probably gonna be a while 'til I can afford that though. Still a bunch of rust to get rid of. Had her patched up enough so I should get her through inspection which I need to do within a month.

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/2/14042008554wd7.th.jpg (http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=14042008554wd7.jpg)

Also, thanks to a flat tire it's got a new wheel I found in my trunk. ;)
OEM spare, for ca5 accord/ba4 prelude. By the looks of it, it had never been used before.

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/7761/14042008553op9.th.jpg (http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=14042008553op9.jpg)

Then it flapped it's wings and took off...

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/3862/14042008555qu5.th.jpg (http://img253.imageshack.us/my.php?image=14042008555qu5.jpg)

After we got it to settle down, me and a buddy were trying to figure out which part of the front right speed sensor (for the ALB system) wasn't working. So we checked the shop manual for troubleshooting (I know it's the front right speed sensor because of the control unit throwing me the code), first thing it said to do was "disconnect wire harness from speed sensor". Well, after scratching our heads for about half an hour without figuring out where said wire harness was, we gave up and poked around with some other random things on the control unit. Needless to say, we didn't come out of the experience any smarter.

Does someone know where the sensor harness is? All we found was the wires running from the sensor inside the car (nothing to disconnect, just solid wire going from the sensor through the hole in the wheel wall), and the connector which connects all of the wires to the ALB ecu. Of course I forgot about taking pictures in the process.

Gonna try and get some more pics later. I need to take some pics of all the rust spots (and a hole or two) that needs to be fixed (for own reference if nothing else), and of the parts that have been fixed. Just sucks that I don't really have any excess money to use on the car, would love to get her in tip top shape. I guess I should just learn how to weld and shit...

I guess this'll have to do for now, need to go to sleep and take a shower... In reverse order.

PS. did I write all that? o.O

Here below I'll be updating what I have done, and need/want/dream to do.

Done:

Body work
(had a guy do this for me, I need to learn to weld some day)
- New right rear wheel arch panel, was completely gone with rust
- Rust hole in the side skirt in front of the right rear wheel fixed.
- Left rear wheel arch patched up, a bunch of rust here too
- Area below filler cap fixed, had a rust hole
- New sheet metal on both sides behind the rear wheels (the ones where the bumper's attached), as everything else these were also gone with rust

Other:
So far not much done, I've changed the oil and replaced the drivers door doorstopper (or whatever it's called) the old one had broken off.

Replaced the cracked bumper light cover with a less cracked one...
Got some new trim for the part that was cracked (wrong color)
Changed transmission oil

In the process of figuring out what's wrong with my ALBs.

Got it through inspection :)

Changed valve cover gasket and the seals around the spark plug holes. Also made an attempt at adjusting the valves.

Fixed my idle problem (maybe), adjusted the FITV so that atleast it doesn't try to warm up at 2k RPMs when it's already warm. Hopefully this will help with the roaming idle too, which seems to have almost disappeared before when I replaced the coolant.

To do:

- Fix up my summer wheels (on hold for now, had to put them on earlier than I planned because I didn't want to spend money on fixing the winter tire that got a flat... there's always next year ;))

Body work:
- Inner rear wheel arches
- Rust spots here and there... Hole below the right taillight, rust around the hinge of the rear left door, various spots on the trunk lid, bottom rear corner of the rear right door, some around the antenna, and a bit on the edge between roof/sunroof... I think that's most of it. Update: after taking a hose to the car and most off the crap coming off of it, I found a whole lot more rust :(
- And even more rust found inside the rear bumper, not sure how much, but I can pull out one of the fog lights without screwing it off... the mounts are all gone, and I think a lot of the bumper mount is too. Also similar things inside the front bumper, a lot less tho.

- Retractable antenna isn't working, the motor is turning but nothing happens.

- Cruise control on/off switch doesn't switch off (better than the other way around I guess)

- Rear bumper hangs crooked (about a centimeter), front bumper is a bit weird at places too.

- Fix the exhaust up, preferably a completely new system

- Fix the ALB

- Paintjob

- Win the lottery

- A bunch of the moldings need replacing, why do these rust anyway?

- Suspension making noises (front right)

- CV joints don't sound good

forrest89sei

04-14-2008, 12:45 PM

Very Nice :thumbup:

thegreatdane

04-14-2008, 01:45 PM

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/4243/14042008230647cs8.th.jpg (http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=14042008230647cs8.jpg)

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/6664/14042008230843xj5.th.jpg (http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=14042008230843xj5.jpg)

You want to be looking at connector 236 and 225.

rock on 2.0i-16's!

MessyHonda

04-14-2008, 06:37 PM

not bad at all

Pico

04-14-2008, 06:44 PM

Beautiful

Nafs Asdf

04-14-2008, 10:08 PM

You want to be looking at connector 236 and 225.

rock on 2.0i-16's!

Thanks, that should help. What manual are those pics from?

Can't really tell from those pictures though, are those located inside the car or in the engine bay? If it's in the engine bay I'm either blind or they're well hidden behind something...

ghettogeddy

04-14-2008, 10:11 PM

Nafs Asdf

04-14-2008, 10:25 PM

Yeah, I got those... Never seem to find what I need with all the supplements to look through though.

Hash_man_Se_i

04-14-2008, 10:32 PM

Car looks good... unfortunately most of us dont have ALB in our cars, being in north america... so those manuals are probably your best friend. Good luck with the rust repair and such... heated seats must be cool, i love those in winter.

Nafs Asdf

04-15-2008, 07:39 AM

Hmm, I got good and bad news. Good is I found the connector, bad is the sensor is working (at least if I did the tests right). And how's that bad you might ask... Well, it means that it's the pulser, or the gap between the pulser and sensor that is wrong and I have no idea on how to fix that. I'm pretty sure there was some special tools involved too. Or if it isn't that, it's the control unit which I suspect isn't very cheap.

Anyways, updated my first post with some thing's that's been done and more that I need to do. Kind of a reminder list for myself, but feel free to give any pointers on any of the things I've listed.

Nafs Asdf

04-15-2008, 12:12 PM

Ok, so here's some pics.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7373/15042008582.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008582.jpg)
The guy who did the body work was supposed to replace the flex pipe too, but I don't really know what he did there... Looks pretty ghetto to me.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5412/15042008588.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008588.jpg)
Cruise control switch just won't go off...

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8366/15042008576.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008576.jpg)
Name tag. There's the "type (france)" thingy too

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5344/15042008586.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008586.jpg)
Got a blown bulb...

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1885/15042008580.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008580.jpg)
Cracked bumper light

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9687/15042008564.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008564.jpg)
Evil stuff

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5339/15042008569.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008569.jpg)
Backseat maybe?

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/892/15042008571.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008571.jpg)
B20A

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4031/15042008568.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008568.jpg)
Front interior, leather steering wheel

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7758/15042008567.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008567.jpg)
And some more of the interior...

The interior has been kept pretty tidy, but is also in need of a wash. It's dusty as hell.

Nafs Asdf

04-15-2008, 12:20 PM

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/8439/15042008573.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008573.jpg)
Pic of the block

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4086/15042008570.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008570.jpg)
Cracked trim...

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/4466/15042008558.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008558.jpg)
Rusted rear right inner wheel arch, I'm also missing the cover thing that goes in there.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/6872/15042008561.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008561.jpg)
fixed...

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/38/15042008563.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008563.jpg)
Rear left wheel arch, got the plastic thingy there so just stuck my hand under the car and shot it blindly

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/2201/15042008560.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008560.jpg)
also fixed

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3655/15042008557.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008557.jpg)
Big hole fixed, door still rusty.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3999/15042008559.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008559.jpg)
The badge is in bad company :(

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9372/15042008556.th.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/my.php?image=15042008556.jpg)
Whole arch replaced here.

thegreatdane

04-15-2008, 01:12 PM

Thanks, that should help. What manual are those pics from?

Can't really tell from those pictures though, are those located inside the car or in the engine bay? If it's in the engine bay I'm either blind or they're well hidden behind something...

I have this collection which includes the wiring diagram manual :)

http://www.honda-klub.dk/vis.php?527bba59407d77a16595c906fa7211b8

To check the wheel sensors you measure their resistance while the connector is disconnected and you also check for continuity to ground from either one of the sensor wires -there shouldnt be any. (If you have a scope you can do a little more advanced diagnosis as well). Also insure that the ABS pulser ring is not missing a tooth or broken so that it can spin freely round on the axle. Dont worry about the sensor gap, that wont be an issue unless your sensor is dangling by its wire next to the wheel...

Good to see you are getting some rust taken care of!

MessyHonda

04-15-2008, 05:03 PM

i want your engine and trans..haha

Nafs Asdf

04-15-2008, 11:15 PM

Thanks for the responses :)

I'm pretty sure I got the sensor resistance measured right, and it was within specs. But how should I check the connectivity? (I did something, but I have no idea if I did it right)

Messy, find me a rust free car with everything else in good shape and I'll trade you my engine and tranny for it ;)

thegreatdane

04-16-2008, 01:15 PM

with your ohm meter connect one probe to one of the sensor wires and the other probe to ground next to the sensor. there shouldnt be any continuity at all.

AccordB20A

04-16-2008, 05:34 PM

hey. cool cars dude B20A for the win!!

2drSE-i

04-17-2008, 10:24 AM

its an Accord Type fR lol

Civic Accord Honda

04-17-2008, 10:39 AM

i really like that interior!

Nafs Asdf

04-17-2008, 11:03 AM

its an Accord Type fR lol

I think it probably would have been if they made Type R's back then ;)

Ended up changing to my summer tires yesterday, because of the flat. Didn't feel like paying to get it fixed right now. That puts my plans for the wheels on hold, but I figured how it looks is one of the least important parts atm. Washed off the worst crap of it today, and found a bunch more rust. :thumbdn:

I also think that something in the front right suspension is giving up. It makes a sort of crunching sound when I press it down, also does it while driving. I'm sure the nice inspector guys are gonna have something to say about it. :(

My gearbox is really giving me a hard time getting into first, and sometimes second too... Need to get the oil changed asap and hope that it helps. Otherwise I'm looking at even more trouble. :(

thegreatdane, I think I did the test right now. No continuity, so that would mean the pulser ring is probably bad? Can I check it somehow without having to pull apart everything?

Also my exhaust feels like it's in worse shape now than before it was "fixed", gonna have to ask the guy what he really did to it.

My phone battery was dead too, so no pics. Gonna get some tomorrow, it's an SUV now with the bigger wheels on it ;)

russiankid

04-17-2008, 11:36 AM

Good looking project as well as progress. I looked at your engine bay, and what is that reservoir that is between the battery and shock tower?:wtf:

Civic Accord Honda

04-17-2008, 11:47 AM

Good looking project as well as progress. I looked at your engine bay, and what is that reservoir that is between the battery and shock tower?:wtf:
i think thats for ALB

Nafs Asdf

04-17-2008, 11:47 AM

Thanks, I guess it's becoming more of a project than it was meant to be. The body seems to be in a lot worse shape than it was supposed to be, and new things keep popping up all the time. Need to have a good rant at my dad (bought it from him). I'm using it as a daily driver too, which makes everything more difficult.

And that's the ALB break fluid reservoir.

Nafs Asdf

04-18-2008, 06:56 AM

Here are the pics as promised :)

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/6340/18042008599tp9.th.jpg (http://img356.imageshack.us/my.php?image=18042008599tp9.jpg)
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3410/18042008596kc3.th.jpg (http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=18042008596kc3.jpg)
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/1521/18042008598bf6.th.jpg (http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=18042008598bf6.jpg)
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/5811/18042008593ac8.th.jpg (http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=18042008593ac8.jpg)

It's clean(er)-ish! ;)

Hazwan

04-18-2008, 07:40 AM

Nice. I like the wheels.

Nafs Asdf

04-18-2008, 07:48 AM

I like em too, just too bad they're in terrible shape :(

Nafs Asdf

04-18-2008, 11:43 AM

Tried to clean up the interior a bit today, think it's more dusty now than when I started... No matter how much I vacuumed there was just cloud after cloud of dust coming out of the seats... However good I wipe the dust off the dash or something, the instant someone sits in one of the seats the dust's there again. :(

I guess 20 years worth of dust is a lot...

Nafs Asdf

04-19-2008, 06:22 AM

Nafs Asdf

04-20-2008, 10:44 AM

Gonna take it to inspection tomorrow if I have time, I'll be lucky if I pass tho. If I fail I'll have a month to fix everything they find lacking. :nervous:

Also just remembered another problem (not significant, but still). My clock and cigarette lighter only work from time to time. I've noticed that they work when the car has stood for a couple days, but after I drive it for a day they won't... Could someone give me some ideas of where to start looking for the problem? I'm guessing on some wire problems, but with the way they are going on and off seems strange.

thegreatdane

04-20-2008, 12:29 PM

More on the suspension, I'm hearing various noises from all four corners. Not a lot but some crunching and whining. So I guess I should start looking into getting new springs and shocks, preferably with a couple centimeters drop.

And what kind of prices would we be talking about for this?

What other parts would be good to get replacements for? I don't really know a lot about suspension.

I think my rear brakes need replacing too, the hand brake doesn't really work well. And I've tightened it a bunch.

Again any tips on any of these would be much appreciated. (I will be searching for the info too, but I figured since this is my thread I can ask whatever ;))

Also, would changing the timing belt be something I could do myself? Bare in mind I have almost no experience with this stuff, most of what I do know I've learned in the two month's that I've had this car. I think changing the belt would be a good idea, cause if the sticker on it is from when it was last changed, it's over 100,00 km ago. And since just about everything seems to be giving up on me, well I just don't want that thing to break :nervous:

Noises from the suspension can come from all sorts of places other than the springs and shocks. Balljoints and bushings can be worn out. So inspect everything for play. But I assume that will be done for you when you are taking it to the inspection anyway.

The rear brake calipers tends to seize up in the e-brake mechanism in our sort of weather conditions. Usually you will need to replace the calipers. Dont adjust the e-brake by tightening the cables, the reason the cables have attained slack is because the calipers are seized so the e-brake lever arms on the calipers wont retract fully. When you remove the slack in the cables that's just another reason they wont be able to retract and you have a greater risk of the calipers binding/hanging since you can now with force from the e-brake make the lever arms on the calipers travel a little bit further than before but they still wont retract.
These sort of calipers are a pain if they arent maintained properly with lots of lube.

You can do the timing belt yourself just take your time and follow the shop manual. You might be cursing some over the space (or lack of it) you have to work with though. And be sure to have an impact gun next to you to remove the crank pulley with.

Gonna take it to inspection tomorrow if I have time, I'll be lucky if I pass tho. If I fail I'll have a month to fix everything they find lacking. :nervous:

Also just remembered another problem (not significant, but still). My clock and cigarette lighter only work from time to time. I've noticed that they work when the car has stood for a couple days, but after I drive it for a day they won't... Could someone give me some ideas of where to start looking for the problem? I'm guessing on some wire problems, but with the way they are going on and off seems strange.

They share the same grounding point but also together with lots of other components, so if nothing else is acting up then that's probably not the issue. Are you sure the cigarette lighter problem appears simultaneously with the clock problem? They dont share the same positive cicuits. Maybe it's just the clock itself. Unless it's the dimmer function that's not working?? Btw. is it the cigarette lighter itself or the light around it that's not working?

Nafs Asdf

04-21-2008, 07:08 AM

Just came back from the inspection... And I'm dissapointed.

The one time I actually want the guy to find what's wrong I get perfectly clear papers. :huh:

Didn't really have anything to say other than my drivers side headlight is directed a bit too much to the left. And that the right side cv boot should be replaced (it had leaked grease or something). That was it. So no help on the various noises I've been hearing. And nothing that I have to fix.

Also here are my results from the suspension, break and exhaust tests.

Suspension (I have no idea what these numbers mean)
Front Left 71%
Front Right 77%
Rear Left 60%
Rear Right 68%

Brakes (kiloNewton?)
FL 1.8 kN
FR 1.8 kN
RL 0.7 kN
RR 0.8 kN

Handbrake
left 0.7 kN
right 1 kN

Emissions (idle, didn't do higher rpms)
CO% 0.09
CO2 11.6
HC ppm 74
O2 4.7

As for the clock/cigarette lighter issue, I can't say for sure they're related. But the last time I used the lighter was also when the clock was working. And when the clock hasn't been working, neither has the lighter. And I haven't even noticed if there is a light around the lighter... All I know it doesn't work and that it did when the clock did, when I push the gizmo in it won't heat up. What could I do to find out what the problem is?

Nafs Asdf

04-21-2008, 09:11 AM

I just poked a bit around the clock, and suddenly it started working again. And the lighter might not be broken after all, it's just taking it's time. Seems to have forgotten how to pop out too. Did it once however when I was just trying it, almost jumped up in my lap, dangerous thing.

I'm gonna fiddle around with them some more tomorrow.

The light however (if that plastic ring around it is supposed to light up) doesn't work.

2oodoor

04-21-2008, 09:20 AM

BITESIZE

04-21-2008, 10:26 AM

Shine your tires and take one more picture.:rockon:

Nafs Asdf

04-26-2008, 09:45 AM

Shine your tires and take one more picture.:rockon:

I'll do that next time I wash it :)

In the mean time, some minor updates.
I got some parts off of my parts car, well not mine but I can take anything I want from it. It's my girlfriends brothers old car that he smashed a couple years ago.
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/9365/24042008610dr2.th.jpg (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=24042008610dr2.jpg)

The parts car, white -86 EX. Too bad it's got blue interior, need to paint that piece of trim I got from it if I want it to match mine. Also need to fix up the mirrors, they take a ton of force to get to fold and the screws holding the pieces together are so rusty that when I tried to open them, the screwdriver just spun around breaking the heads. Only really need the outer plastic covers, but they need a good wash, lubing and paint.
http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/598/24042008613yo6.th.jpg (http://img76.imageshack.us/my.php?image=24042008613yo6.jpg)
http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/6317/24042008611ad7.th.jpg (http://img177.imageshack.us/my.php?image=24042008611ad7.jpg)

Still going to at least get the radiator from it, it should be pretty new. Think it was replaced just before the crash. Don't think much of anything else on it would do me much good, it being an A20A and carbed. Could someone give me a quick rundown of which parts are the same on the A20 and B20?

Also changed my tranny oil, seems to be a bit smoother now. 1st is still a bit problematic at times, and reverse will grind if I don't switch into first before. But I didn't think those things would go away with just the oil change anyway. I used Mobil (I think, my memory is giving up on me) super s or something, 10w-40.

I'm getting more and more annoying sounds from the front right. If I push it down it makes the sounds, and when I take off it does it (more if I turn the wheel, less if I just go straight). Doesn't seem to do it when I'm going faster. Don't know really how to describe it, it's sort of like a crunching sound. I'm thinking it might be some joints that are not lubed up adequately. A big part of the underside of the engine and car is very greasy (pretty thick black stuff), would it be probable that it's the joints leaking and splattering it all over? At least one of the rubber boots has a hole in it.

That's it for now, any comments are welcome! :)

A18A

04-26-2008, 09:58 AM

just make sure that radiator hasnt been damaged

Nafs Asdf

04-26-2008, 10:17 AM

I just looked at it quickly and it seemed ok. But of course I'll check it more thoroughly when we take it out.

Nafs Asdf

06-06-2008, 12:44 PM

Been a while, haven't really had any time to do anything :(

Other than finding more stuff that needs fixing. Ordered a new timing belt and tensioner today, but when I drove off from the dealership the check engine light came on.

Got home, counted blinks on the ECU and it's the coolant temperature sensor. Was gonna test it to see if it's the sensor or wires, but my multimeter has gone AWOL.

Anyways, while randomly poking at stuff again, hoping that somehow a miracle would happen and everything would be fixed I noticed that my fan is not working. Had the engine running for a good 10 minutes at least, and didn't come on once. Also can't remember if it's ever been working, just haven't noticed it before.

Would that be connected to the sensor or a problem of it's own?

Also is it safe to drive the thing?

forrest89sei

06-06-2008, 12:54 PM

Nafs Asdf

06-06-2008, 12:59 PM

What I'm worried about is the temp gauge not reading right... I guess I need to flush the coolant and see what happens.

thegreatdane

06-06-2008, 01:19 PM

not entirely correct. there's one sensor for the ecu and one sensor for the water temp gauge.

The fan is activated by its own thermoswitch which is mounted in the bottom of the radiator.
Try checking that and the fuse for the fan.

nothing happens not having a working fan, as long as you are not letting it hold still with the engine running for more than 3-5 minutes. As soon as the car is moving the air will cool the radiator sufficiently.

Nafs Asdf

06-06-2008, 01:41 PM

Almost forgot one thing...

Is the ECU supposed to keep flashing after you pull the fuse?

The manual said to reset it by pulling the ECU fuse for 10 seconds, so I did that. Put it back in and it still flashed.

Thought that maybe I didn't have it removed for long enough, so I pulled it again for a few minutes this time. Didn't do anything.

So then I tried turning on the ignition with the fuse removed, and it just kept flashing. o.O

Nafs Asdf

08-17-2008, 08:18 AM

Time for an update :)
Me and my girlfriends brother spent all of this week working on it, and now it got paint!

Although the result is far from perfect, my buddy turned out to be pretty good with the paint gun, but I shouldn't be let within 10 meters of one (I just did the mud flaps, and thankfully only them ;)).

It also turn out a little bit flat as we ran out of paint because of screwing up the first try. Had big ass runs and orange peel, so we sanded it down and shot it again, turned out decent I'd say. Only a couple very small runs and some small orange peel.

Of course there are about a gazillion small dents we forgot, while doing the body work. They just didn't show when it was sanded down, but once it gets some shine they become all too visible. Also we didn't sand down the runs from the first try good enough, so you can still see them from certain angles.

But all in all I'll have to say I'm satisfied about how it turned out considering our tight schedule (we both had the week off, so it had to be done by today, or it would've had to wait for a long time and I need the car), and our limited knowledge about painting cars.

All badges and the ugly round side markers got shaved in the process.

Supplies, paint and gas for the trips to the garage (about 30 km from where I live) cost me around 3-400 €. But for a "real" paint job I'd probably have to pay around 2000 €. The paint is an OEM color, R51 phoenix red.

Here's some pics of the result, any comments or thoughts are welcome.

http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/684/17082008693qs8.th.jpg (http://img390.imageshack.us/my.php?image=17082008693qs8.jpg)
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/5203/17082008692.th.jpg (http://img95.imageshack.us/my.php?image=17082008692.jpg)

2oodoor

08-17-2008, 11:52 AM

looks pretty good to me, good work

AccordB20A

08-17-2008, 01:49 PM

Now if this guy was to buy a set of JDM B20a gold top cams and ecu and convert to eletronic ign would the engine put out 160HP????? Not trying to make a sale im just intereted to know:)

bullard123

08-17-2008, 04:11 PM

Wow that looks hot man! I love that color

86ccord

08-17-2008, 04:24 PM

wow... ive always enjoyed seeing red accords like ours.. love that car man.. looks good

MessyHonda

08-17-2008, 05:10 PM

looks good

Pico

08-17-2008, 05:17 PM

Very Nice Work

Nafs Asdf

08-17-2008, 09:57 PM

Now if this guy was to buy a set of JDM B20a gold top cams and ecu and convert to eletronic ign would the engine put out 160HP????? Not trying to make a sale im just intereted to know:)

Probably not since I'd still have all emissions components, would need to get rid of those too ;)

However one thing that I'd really need before next inspection is the JDM front corner lights. I think they might not like my shaved side markers. Or I'll just have to tape on some aftermarket ones.

Civic Accord Honda

08-17-2008, 10:01 PM

looks really good!!

Nafs Asdf

08-17-2008, 10:14 PM

Thanks for all the comments :)

I'll try to do a more detailed write-up when I have more time on my hands.

AccordB20A

08-18-2008, 12:18 AM

Probably not since I'd still have all emissions components, would need to get rid of those too ;)

However one thing that I'd really need before next inspection is the JDM front corner lights. I think they might not like my shaved side markers. Or I'll just have to tape on some aftermarket ones.
what type are you after? i have some 1986-1987 JDm ones lieing around.

I dont think you would have any different emission stuff from what my engine has. it looks the same as my gold top apart from the rocker cover being black. and the fact you have vacuum advance and mines eletronic.

Nafs Asdf

08-18-2008, 01:05 AM

what type are you after? i have some 1986-1987 JDm ones lieing around.

I dont think you would have any different emission stuff from what my engine has. it looks the same as my gold top apart from the rocker cover being black. and the fact you have vacuum advance and mines eletronic.

I'm looking for the same type of corners that thegreatdane has on his, to get rid of the ugly reflectors.

As for the emissions stuff, mine has EGR and cat. And some other stuff I can't remember. Which is the downside of it being imported and not being the finnish model, as they don't have those. The upside is that I don't think it has been registered as having low emissions, so I should be able to legaly remove all of it. But I guess I'd atleast need an ecu from a car without them.

thegreatdane

08-18-2008, 02:14 AM

Wow great improvement! Evrything in one color does a lot!
I like the color!

Howcome your front grille is chrome, did you swap it out? 2.0i-16's have black front grilles.

Nafs Asdf

08-18-2008, 02:25 AM

Wow great improvement! Evrything in one color does a lot!
I like the color!

Howcome your front grille is chrome, did you swap it out? 2.0i-16's have black front grilles.

Thanks :)
It's actually the same color as the original, now it just looks like it's supposed to ;)

The grille was chrome when I got the car. I'm pretty sure the car has been in a front end collision at some point in it's life, when we were sanding it down the dust from the front end came out a different color than the rest. Also the headlight wiper motors have been replaced (they have accord -88 written on them and the car is an -89). So that's probably why the grille is different.

Nafs Asdf

08-27-2008, 08:41 AM

Now if this guy was to buy a set of JDM B20a gold top cams and ecu and convert to eletronic ign would the engine put out 160HP????? Not trying to make a sale im just intereted to know:)

I started thinking about this, what exactly would it take to do this conversion?

On another note, took a swing with a white tire marker at my mudflaps: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66007

AccordB20A

08-27-2008, 12:11 PM

hey man those corner lights i got are for a popup light. i dont seem to have any fixed headlight ones lying around anymore:(

i also noticed your edm b20 doesnt have a header like the JDM one does so theres another power killer. if you got a header, jdm cams ecu and got rid of that vac advance i recon you would be getting closer to 145-150 HP at the flywheel (depending on your motors health)

Nafs Asdf

08-29-2008, 12:07 PM

So what's needed to do the conversion, as in what parts and what has to be done? Don't think I can afford to get any of it right now, but I'm curious. Also if I got a JDM ecu wouldn't I get rid of the EGR and a bunch of other useless stuff? (Getting an ECU from a Finnish model would do that too, but I'd be stuck with vacuum advance)

And some pics :)

http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/3484/interiorfu4.jpg

Did some tidying up inside of the car today, outside is too dirty to take pics off. Been raining a lot the past weeks and our yard is surrounded by birch trees so it's full of gunk and whatever it is they drop to make tree-babies.

Here's some from before and during the new paint.

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/3451/12082008686tv0.jpg
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/668/12082008681zp4.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/2344/14082008690ds9.jpg

Hazwan

08-30-2008, 05:12 PM

New paint looks sweet :thumbup:

Nafs Asdf

09-12-2008, 07:39 AM

Time for some updates :)

Well for some time I've been getting the check engine light every now and then, giving code 6 ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor. So I thought wll I'll go to a parts store, pick one up and change it, and that I did. Then the next day I get the CEL and same code again... Do some research and find out it was the wrong temp sensor, the one I changed was just for the temp gauge, and not the one feeding info to the ecu.

After investigating on what the thing was on the board, and reading that parts store would probably not have them, I went to the local honda dealer to get a price on the part. 85 euro, for a damn temp sensor... (120 ish USD) Well, I didn't order it, but I got the part number and when googling for it I saw that the A20 has the same one as the B20 (local JY has a bunch of A20's but no B20), so took a trip to the JY. Three accords later I had the part in my hand (first two had no engine in them ;)). Went to the manager and asked him what he wanted for it, he asked me what it was, I said temp sensor, he said 2 euro, I was happy.
Switched 'em out before leaving the junkyard and I think I noticed the car run a bit better and had more power in the upper RPMs. Might just be one of these 'it's in your head' thingies too.

Another thing that I noticed after switching the sensor was that the engine warms up a lot more than earlier, never seen the temp gauge rise above half way before. A while back I figured my fan wasn't working because it hadn't come on once for as long as I've had the car, but as it seems it's just been that the car has never been warm enough. Now the fan does come on as it should.

This got me thinking that somehow the faulty sensor caused the ecu to adjust stuff so that the engine never got hot, which seems a bit odd to me. And any input on this from anyone who actually knows something is very welcome. :)

Well there was some good news, and now for some bad. When installing the first (wrong) sensor I apparently managed to break one of the vacuum 'taps' (don't know if this is the right word) on the thermovalve which is in the same area. (Also priced this at the stealership, was around 80 euros too)

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/1777/02092008707md3.jpg

So need to fix that, think I'll just get it out and glue the tap back on it. Problem is that it looks like the coolant pipe under it is too close so it won't turn unless I break of the other one too. :(

Also what should I do with the vacuum line that was connected to it while I use the car before I have time to fix it. Right now I just got it plugged, I'm hoping this isn't harmful in any way.

And now for something completely different...

I was thinkin about what thegreatdane said about 2.0i-16's having a black front grille, and thought mine should have one too. But I didn't want to paint it since that doesn't really work well on chrome (and didn't want to buy one since I didn't know how it would look) so I got some flat black vinyl and taped it on.

And a pic (both pre- and post photoshop, guess which is which) ;)

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/5932/11092008716copygr6.jpghttp://img528.imageshack.us/img528/3403/11092008716mm7.jpg

Camera Phone ftw!

codyJDM

09-12-2008, 07:48 AM

:redx: can't see the pics and I want to!

Nafs Asdf

09-12-2008, 09:05 AM

I can't see them either... Unless I'm logged in to google.
Hang on a min, and I'll put em up somewhere else.

Nafs Asdf

09-12-2008, 09:09 AM

And I guess a daytime pic would be more descriptive ;)
I'll get one up later.

AccordB20A

09-12-2008, 01:34 PM

i think you should convert your car to electronic dizzy / jdm ecu then you wont need vacuum line sensors and crap like that

A18A

09-12-2008, 05:33 PM

hey i like that black** grill

Nafs Asdf

09-13-2008, 12:18 AM

i think you should convert your car to electronic dizzy / jdm ecu then you wont need vacuum line sensors and crap like that

If you tell me what I need to know/do for it and ship me the parts for cheap, then yeah I'll do it. :)

AccordB20A

09-13-2008, 01:00 AM

how good are you at wiring? it involves a little bit.
probably would cost 100 to ship an ecu, ignitor and dizzy over to you

Nafs Asdf

09-13-2008, 07:19 AM

Don't know how good I would be with wiring as I've never really done any... I'd be interested to give it a shot tho, but I guess I would need some really detailed instructions.

And 100 of what kind of money, and is that with the stuff or just shipping?

AccordB20A

09-13-2008, 12:33 PM

i would say $130-150 USD would cover the parts and shipping. \

Nafs Asdf

09-13-2008, 11:32 PM

So that's around 100 euro then... Any chance you could find me a pair of jdm corners for fixed headlights too?

Before I make the decision to buy it, could you give me a more detailed description as to what has to be done, other than just unbolting the old parts and putting on the new ones. Like what I need to wire, and what will be obsolete on my B20A8 after this (vacuum stuff I presume, but what of it). And if there's anything else I need to know.

AccordB20A

09-14-2008, 12:13 AM

Ill have to do some research into your B20A8 and see what you have now and what you will need to convert to a JDM b20a Dizzy
Your current dizzys wires to to the coil right, Like a carb A20A?

and your cam sensor has a plug with 4 wires right?

Nafs Asdf

09-14-2008, 01:07 AM

There's a pic of my engine bay on the first page of this thread, looks like it's 4 wires coming from the cam sensor. I'll go outside and check it in a min to be sure.

Also in the shop manuals I think it's the '88 supplement that has stuff about the A8.

AccordB20A

09-14-2008, 01:10 AM

oh okay great. also what are the rules for emissions in your country, is there any.. if there isnt i suggest you remove other things from your motor too :D

Nafs Asdf

09-14-2008, 01:18 AM

Hmm, the emissions rules are both strict and loose-ish depending on if the car in question is classed as having low emissions or not. Which usually depends on if the car has a cat or not (for pre '91 cars, as newer ones I think are required to have teh cat). Thing is that since the finnish 3g models didn't have any of the emissions components, as mine does, it wasn't registered as having them either when brought to Finland in the early 90's. So as far a I know I could remove all of it. I'm hoping this doesn't come up and bite me in the ass later. ;)

Nafs Asdf

09-14-2008, 01:43 AM

Went outside and looked at the wires to make sure, there's indeed 4 coming off the cam sensor and the ones from the dizzy go to the coil.

Nafs Asdf

09-14-2008, 09:57 AM

As promised, a day-time pic of the front :)

http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/3838/14092008719tc8.jpg

thegreatdane

09-14-2008, 11:11 AM

cool, that's a sexy 2.0i-16 right there! Would look best if you paint the front lip black again though together with a lowering I think. And I think your antenna has the usual bent to hell disease :p

Nafs Asdf

09-14-2008, 12:02 PM

cool, that's a sexy 2.0i-16 right there! Would look best if you paint the front lip black again though together with a lowering I think. And I think your antenna has the usual bent to hell disease :p

Thanks :)
Do you mean the top part of the bumper, or the lip under it?

I totally agree about the lowering, it needs it. Just that quality springs/struts cost more than what I've paid for the car, which feels kinda stupid, and it's not something I can really afford. :(

But now for some things I've been planning to do. I don't like how the license plate covers up the bumper, so I'vee been thinking about relocating it to the lower right side as in the pic below (also gave the thing a lowering for the heck of it ;)).

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/8361/plans2mz8.jpg

And a photoshop of some other plans. When painting the car the license plate holder in the back got painted red too, which I after looking at it for a while have decided should not have been painted. Really think it looks a lot better in black, I feel like it's somehow part of the cars identity and it works so well with the dark rear lights. So that will be repainted at some point.

Also been thinking about painting the chrome trim around the windows black, or maybe I'll try doing it like the front grille with vinyl...

Added a stripe to the side too, I've seen some 3gs with this kind of OEM stripe where it says honda in the back. Thought I'd do the same but instead make it say "accord 2.0i-16" or just "accord" or the numbers or something.

Can't really decide on what I want to do with the rims. Every other day I want them black and every other some other color (gold and white are the main ones). I think white would look pretty hot tho.

And yeah, think the windows got tinted a bit in this pic too.

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5711/plansyj6.jpg

thegreatdane

09-14-2008, 12:43 PM

just the bottom lip. I like the bumpers being one coloured. Just needs a few black pieces here and there, so like you say, it would probably be a good idea with the license plate frame in black again also.
I'm not a fan of the pin stripe though lol. But i think it would look cool if you did this but with 2.0i-16 DOHC instead in white lettering :)
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6826/sideqm5zt4.th.jpg (http://img222.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sideqm5zt4.jpg)

AccordB20A

09-14-2008, 01:22 PM

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5711/plansyj6.jpg

that picture right there is FUCKING awesome. so yeah do it. just looks real tidy like it should be in a showroom.

if you bought that JDM B20A ignition stuff you would have to pretty much match wire colours, cause one of the sensors in the cam sensor will now be located in the dizzy and the other located in another cam sensor i have to send you, and also in the dizzy is another sensor that controls the electronic ignition i belive, Hey thegreatdane can even help youi out i belive he would have done it haveing pre owned euro b20a1,2 powered cars also :)

Nafs Asdf

09-16-2008, 11:14 AM

One down, more to go...
Painted the license holder black today :)
Didn't get it on there before it got dark tho, so another sucky night pic. :(

http://img53.imageshack.us/img53/3819/16092008724mw5.jpg

The white rims will probably not happen 'til next summer, time to change to the winter wheels soon.
I'm still contemplating on whether to do the pinstripe or not (more leaning towards doing it atm). But the chrome trim around the windows I do want to be black, just don't know how I'll do it. Either I slap on some flat black vinyl, which I'm suspecting won't stay there once it's starts raining/snowing (think the grille won't stay black for too long for the same reason), or I paint it which might go to hell too since I've heard chrome isn't too god to paint on.

forrest89sei

09-16-2008, 11:47 AM

do you have this in a 800X600 or 1024X768?
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/5711/plansyj6.jpg

Nafs Asdf

09-16-2008, 09:06 PM

do you have this in a 800X600 or 1024X768?

Nope, sorry :(
I have the original pic in a larger format, it's somewhere in this thread too. Made that modified pic smaller so it would look better. I could try and make another bigger one if you really want me to. :)

A18A

09-16-2008, 09:49 PM

love the fat wheels!

AccordB20A

09-16-2008, 11:16 PM

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/5126/b20aelectronicignitionsj0.jpg

heres a nice large image on how to get the electronic ignition working

the rest of the job will be just matching wire colours and should be straight forward

Nafs Asdf

09-17-2008, 10:30 AM

heres a nice large image on how to get the electronic ignition working

the rest of the job will be just matching wire colours and should be straight forward

Hmm, after staring at that and the shop manual for a while it all starts to make sense (I think). :) So from what I gather I would be using my existing wire harness, but will need to add wires to B5, B10 an B12. Is this correct?

But what is the IMA? Is it called something else, as I can't seem to find anything by that name.

Here's the contents of the B20A8 black box, anyone of those?
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/3908/b20a8vacuumem2.jpg

cause one of the sensors in the cam sensor will now be located in the dizzy and the other located in another cam sensor i have to send you, and also in the dizzy is another sensor that controls the electronic ignition i belive
Didn't really get what you meant with this... How many cam sensors will I need? o.O

Oh, and what's the other stuff you were suggesting I'd remove?

And a better pic of the rear end. (damn birds don't like my car:rant:)
http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/9004/rearsk5.jpg

AccordB20A

09-17-2008, 11:30 AM

anything labelled EGR can go as the ecu doesnt support it. so vac lines 14

Only pipes you want going into your black box are 5, 21 and 14. 21 is for the map sensor and if you really think you must keep that white air valve on the intakje manifold by the egr pipe 5 and 14 do that. i removed it from mine. remvoe ignition control solenoid valve, check valve ,egr solenoid valve from the black box and plug the appropriate pipes.

But what i did was remove the whole black box and that frequency valve beside it. pull the black box apart and pull out the map sensor and mount it on the firewall. then adjust your idle again and it will run.

with the whole charcoal cannister rubbish i just hooked the pipe that comes out of the throttle body straight top the one that goes into the firewall to remove it.

AccordB20A

09-17-2008, 11:36 AM

http://imagehost.wohdog.sytes.net/Uploads/2008-9-1873613diagram.JPG

this will help with your dizzy wiring. the colours wont be the same exactly but yeah

Nafs Asdf

09-17-2008, 12:21 PM

Yeah, that cleared it up a bit :)

Still got a bunch of questions, but I'll save those for tomorrow, bedtime now.

Nafs Asdf

09-18-2008, 10:34 AM

Hmm, I'm getting confused here now... I've been looking at the ECU pinouts posted on these boards, and if they are correct, something's not adding up. And if they're wrong, could someone fix them? The following assumptions are made thinking that they are correct.

I'm assuming you would be sending me a 86-87 (goldtop right?) ECU, as the 88-89 one would have EGR. The 86-87 pinouts have B5 as empty, while it's the ignition timing input on the 88-89 ECU. Also the 86-87 one doesn't have an O² sensor.

The ECUs without emissions have a 'CO adjusting pot' at B20, I have no idea what that is, but if I'd convert to the goldtop ECU wouldn't I need one of those too?

As for removing stuff, I think I'd probably start off with leaving everything that's supposed to be there, and just toss the stuff that's not needed at all. At least I don't want to be removing anything before I have a full understanding of what the thing does and what it won't do when removed. And right now with most off the vacuum thingies I have no clue as to what the do.

AccordB20A

09-18-2008, 01:30 PM

dunno what a CO adjusting pot is, i dont have one so i take it its nothing. their is an oxy sensor on the b20a its probably not there cause edm b20a2 doesnt have one and that diagram is a copy of the b20a1/2 diagram with the electronic ignition installed. might wanna fix that sometime.
The oxygen sensor is the same pin on all the ecus i belive so if your motor has one now it will be in the right place to go in the right pin the the gold top ECU

Nafs Asdf

09-22-2008, 10:40 AM

do you have this in a 800X600 or 1024X768?

Now I do :)

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/uploads/ebcf922406.jpg

AccordB20A

09-22-2008, 04:17 PM

:) :) :)

Nafs Asdf

10-05-2008, 12:30 PM

Painted the chrome trim around the windows today, and also the base of the mirrors :)

http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/692/blacktrimnu4.jpghttp://img353.imageshack.us/img353/9205/blacktrim2ue4.jpghttp://img128.imageshack.us/img128/682/blacktrim3bs5.jpg

A18A

10-05-2008, 01:10 PM

i quite like what you did with the mirrors there!

AccordB20A

10-05-2008, 02:19 PM

Yeah it looks ncie with the black on red

Nafs Asdf

10-07-2008, 11:06 AM

Thanks guys, I'm pretty pleased with the outcome myself too :)

Hazwan

10-07-2008, 02:51 PM

Looking good :thumbup: I like the shaved look and the black+red combo.

Nafs Asdf

02-19-2009, 07:52 AM

Been a while, don't really have any real updates either so I thought I'd go with a virtual one. ;)

I'm getting the JDM corners and front lip from AccordB20A, along with the JDM ignition stuff and ECU. So I thought I'd do a mockup in photoshop of how the car might look when I get the stuff. :)

So here it is:

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/8186/lipit8.jpg

And the original pic for comparison:
http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/682/blacktrim3bs5.jpg

Tomisimo

02-19-2009, 08:50 AM

Nafs Asdf

02-19-2009, 09:18 AM

nice.. now that when you get your corners you can swap those lights in the bumper to the clear USDM once... I like that line you did in phptoshop there with Honda in the rear.. you can just mask it up and paint on there.. would be a killer...

Don't think there are any clear bumper lights for the 86-87 bumper. I'd like to do something with them tho, not sure what yet.

If I go with that pinstripe on the side I'll probably do it with vinyl or something, easier than to paint it on and a lot easier to remove in case I fuck it up. Was thinking maybe I'll do one across the lip too, should match pretty good.

AccordB20A

02-19-2009, 12:36 PM

I like!!!11

custom make a clear bumper light is the best way, just remove the orange lense and replace it with a clear one, and colour the bulbs accordingly

Nafs Asdf

02-19-2009, 12:59 PM

Yea, might have to give it a shot when summertime comes.

Nafs Asdf

04-01-2009, 09:42 AM

Now if this guy was to buy a set of JDM B20a gold top cams and ecu and convert to eletronic ign would the engine put out 160HP????? Not trying to make a sale im just intereted to know:)

Haha, looking through old posts and I noticed this... Kinda funny how the ecu, distributor and cams are on their way now.

Wanna give me the money to dyno it after I install the stuff? :D

2ndGenGuy

04-01-2009, 09:52 AM

Nafs Asdf

04-01-2009, 10:25 AM

Dude, I love that white stripe idea! Definitely do it! Looks damn good! I'm not sure about the "HONDA" in it. I wouldn't object at all, I think it's cool, but it might look better without it. I think it's one of those things that will look good either way! I really love your car!!

Thanks man! :)
Just gotta wait a while til it gets warmer, still around 0°C (32°F) most days here. Seen a lot more of the sun lately tho, so it's coming. Less depressing now too. December sucks, only 4 hours of sunlight per day gets kinda gloomy. Now it's still light for quite a while after I get home from work.

2ndGenGuy

04-01-2009, 10:38 AM

Wow I thought it sucked being cloudy and rainy all winter, but literally having no sunlight would make me wanna kill myself. lol

Nafs Asdf

04-01-2009, 10:58 AM

Wow I thought it sucked being cloudy and rainy all winter, but literally having no sunlight would make me wanna kill myself. lol

We make up for it in the summer tho, barely gets dark ;)

Nafs Asdf

04-20-2009, 10:29 AM

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5055/ap2u.jpghttp://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1427/ap1g.jpg

I got me some lowering springs! :)

Bought them off a guy on a Finnish forum for 105€ including shipping. They're "brand new", as in they've been kicked around in a warehouse for eight years by the looks of them.

They're AP springs, made in Germany, anyone know anything about these?

Should lower about 40mm (a bit over 1.5 inch), hope I'll be fine on my stock struts for a while. Can't afford to get any replacements right now.

Within a few weeks I should be getting the springs on, and get the corners, front lip and visors that I'm getting from Aaron installed. Also hoping that I'll get my summer wheels sanded and painted this week.

thegreatdane

04-20-2009, 01:43 PM

Sweet!!!! Those parts will make your car look baller! I dont now anyone who tried the AP springs but I see them for sale all the time. Maybe noone wants them? lol naah

Nafs Asdf

04-22-2009, 09:53 AM

Got my new shift boot off ebay today. :)

What do you guys think? (don't mind the muddy interior)

I'm not really happy with what I did to the chrome piece in between, so I think I gotta find a new one. (Most of the chrome was chipped off it tho so I thought I might as well paint it.) Or maybe need a new shift knob, it's looking so worn out next to the brand new leather...

http://img123.imageshack.us/img123/6384/shiftboot.jpg

2drSE-i

04-22-2009, 10:56 AM

shift boot looks great! i think the red would look great if it matched the stiches a bit better. Maybe try a darker red?

Nafs Asdf

04-22-2009, 11:26 AM

shift boot looks great! i think the red would look great if it matched the stiches a bit better. Maybe try a darker red?

Thanks!

Nah, think I'll be skipping the red. If I paint it again I'll probably try satin black, or else I'll just get a new chrome one.

A new knob all together wouldn't be wrong either. Found this leather one on ebay I quite like, 98-02 accord OEM. But the price is a bit much for me, $69 USD.

http://www.hondawheelshop.com/ebay/1998-2000acd-leatherknob-59.jpg

Here's (http://global.ebay.com/HONDA_ACCORD_GEAR_GAITER_BLACK_LEATHER_85-89_90-97/270373633676/item) the ebay link for the shift boot if anyone else wants one. The red stitches aren't standard, but they'll do them (or other special orders) for no extra cost. Must say I was pleased with the feel of the leather, was a lot better than the OEM fake leather one.

AccordB20A

04-22-2009, 01:07 PM

the red is a bit overpowering but it still looks good.

Joay

04-22-2009, 01:40 PM

I've never noticed the [H] on those knobs before... that's pretty awesome.
IDK about the shift boot though, kind of loud.

Hazwan

04-22-2009, 02:58 PM

Looks great. I like the red piece and the stitches.

Nafs Asdf

04-26-2009, 04:41 AM

Woot, wheels are painted and on the car! :)

Need to get those springs on now.

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/984/newwheels2.jpg

While changing the wheels I also noticed where my brake fluid has been going, front left caliper was wet... :(

And while waiting for my stuff to arrive, some more photoshoppage ;)

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/9435/19092008730copy.jpg

AccordB20A

04-26-2009, 01:50 PM

that looks nice!!

did you photoshop the corners on that pic or did u ger them in the mail?

Joay

04-26-2009, 07:58 PM

That is going to look hot when it's lowered! Normally I don't dig everything being color-matched but you pulled it off great.

Nafs Asdf

04-26-2009, 08:29 PM

that looks nice!!

did you photoshop the corners on that pic or did u ger them in the mail?

They're shopped, that pic was taken last year.

EDIT: to clarify, the lower pic is photoshopped the upper is real :P

AccordB20A

04-29-2009, 02:32 AM

Nafs Asdf

04-29-2009, 02:46 AM

your corners showed up today, back here. aparently i failed with the address, so i paid another $10 and shipped them out AGAIN, this time they should get there. air mail takes 6-10 days :)

tell me when you get your other box it should nearly be there by now.....

Damn... I sure hope the other box gets here without failure (what was it exactly you had failed with?).

Don't think there's any way those corners will get here before I have to get it inspected, think last day is the 5th. Kinda sucks, no point in going to get it inspected without any blinkers on the sides, sure to fail. And if I go inspect it late and it fails something I can't drive it until it's fixed (If it fails when inspecting it in time you have 30 days to fix it and can still drive it).

When was it you shipped the first box?

gp02a0083

04-29-2009, 07:42 AM

gotta love nj inspection , went in there with my jdm markers , they didnt say anything about it

86ccord

04-29-2009, 05:03 PM

sick ride mannn.. ugh just slam the hell outta it.. :D

Nafs Asdf

04-29-2009, 10:35 PM

gotta love nj inspection , went in there with my jdm markers , they didnt say anything about it

I doubt they say anything if I actually had any sidemarkers. Only have the front bumper indicators, none on the sides.

sick ride mannn.. ugh just slam the hell outta it.. :D

Hehe, thanks. I'm not really into slammed cars tho, a small drop and a little bit less wheel gap is all I'm after. :)

I've started to think it might rub pretty bad when I get the springs on with the wheels I got, as the tire is about as wide as the outer edge of the fender...

And yesterday my neighbor and good friend backed into my front bumper. :(
He said he'll pay for paint and a new bumper light tho, so it's all good.

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/391/rikki.jpg

A18A

04-29-2009, 10:39 PM

that sucks, but at least it wasn't a hit & run

Nafs Asdf

04-29-2009, 10:47 PM

Yeah, and as long as everything inside the bumper checks out ok I don't mind painting it again. Gives me a chance to do a better job at it than last time ;)

bullard123

04-30-2009, 06:15 AM

Aww man that sucks. Shouldn't be too hard to touch up though. You car has made some good progress

Nafs Asdf

04-30-2009, 08:01 AM

Aww man that sucks. Shouldn't be too hard to touch up though. You car has made some good progress

Thanks. Just removed the bumper to get a better look at it, and it's cracked at the horn cover. Think I'll ask the guy if he'll get me a "new" bumper from the JY.

Other than that, doesn't seem to be any damage to anything else.

thegreatdane

04-30-2009, 11:04 AM

Nice to see a shifter boot that is attached to the stock knob like it's supposed to! Looks good! (except from the now red chrome ring :) )

Looking at your pics I dont think you will get a problem with your wheels rubbing.

Nafs Asdf

04-30-2009, 11:56 AM

Nice to see a shifter boot that is attached to the stock knob like it's supposed to! Looks good! (except from the now red chrome ring :) )

Thanks, and yeah the red chrome ring failed. But wasn't much of the chrome left on it before either. ;)

Looking at your pics I dont think you will get a problem with your wheels rubbing.

I'm hoping you're right.

Civic Accord Honda

05-02-2009, 02:56 AM

i like the new boot!

Tdurr

05-02-2009, 09:46 AM

sick ride mannn.. ugh just slam the hell outta it.. :D

true story.

Nafs Asdf

05-08-2009, 11:36 AM

Yay, non-photoshopped pic with the JDM corners! Got them in the mail yesterday.

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/6992/corner.jpg

Haven't got them wired yet, since that fender didn't want to play nicely. But I got the right one off now. :)

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/1513/fenderoff.jpg

Got dark tho so I have to get the rest done tomorrow. Need to extend the old side marker wires a bit, and of course get the other fender off.

Also I was positively surprised that the original looms that go in the small round sidemarkers fit the JDM corners. But they should've made those wires longer. ;)

86ccord

05-08-2009, 06:37 PM

looks good yo! good work!

Hazwan

05-08-2009, 06:43 PM

Nice. Looking way better with stock corner lamps.

AccordB20A

05-08-2009, 07:55 PM

More JDM by the day :)

Tomisimo

05-09-2009, 12:34 PM

nice nice nicew, really nice..
Now I need those corners. And you have a black top, whar year is your car?

Nafs Asdf

05-09-2009, 01:31 PM

nice nice nicew, really nice..
Now I need those corners. And you have a black top, whar year is your car?

Yes you do ;)

It's an '89, B20A8 (KX model)

Nafs Asdf

05-09-2009, 02:03 PM

And thanks for the props guys :)

A18A

05-10-2009, 07:44 AM

real flash, cant wait to see it lowered :D

Nafs Asdf

05-11-2009, 01:34 AM

Just got back from inspecting the car, didn't pass, so there's a few things I have to take care of within 30 days. Emissions failed, well not really emissions but my rear muffler. It's got so many holes in it it wasn't possible to get a real reading. The leaking front brake needs fixing, and my right side handbrake didn't work at all. Also one spot under the car needs to be welded, the bottom was in good shape otherwise.

Could someone give me a rundown on what to do with the brake issues? The front brake seems to be leaking at where the brake line connects to the caliper. Got no idea what to do with the hand brake tho...

real flash, cant wait to see it lowered :D

Yeah, me neither. Never changed the springs on a car tho, so I could use some tips as to what I need toolwise and supplies. Also is there anything else that would be easy to change at the same time, bushings or whatever?

AccordB20A

05-11-2009, 02:07 AM

just take off the leaking brake connection and replace the crush washers on it
You have rear discs?? they allways fail!! will either be a broken cable or a seized caliper. have a look at the handbrake ajuster in the center console.

Nafs Asdf

05-11-2009, 02:26 AM

thegreatdane

05-11-2009, 04:40 AM

You'll probly need a new caliper on the rear. They always seize up in the ebrake mechanism in our climathe. You can try taking it apart but taking it apart is a bitch because they're always so rusted and you'll probably need some new parts for the caliper to get it working again so might as well get a remanufactured one.

You shouldnt touch the ebrake adjustment under the centerconsole, and even if you do it wont help anything. You basically only use that adjuster when you put in new cables or if someone tampered with the adjuster before.

Front brakes as mentioned just requires 2 new copper washers.

Regarding the spring job, make sure you have some sort of spring compresser and that you dont necessarily need the car the nex day. The bushing in the rear knuckle that the shocks bolts to may need replacing because the are bolts often stuck inside. Same with the front end, where the pinch forks attaches to the lower control arms. The bolts also gets stuck in there.

Nafs Asdf

05-11-2009, 06:08 AM

Are there any polyurethane bushings for those, or should I get OEM ones or some random parts store ones?

Do you think a rebuild kit would work on the rear brake caliper? Cause the kit would cost about 25 € and the whole real caliper is about 110€... This is at a parts store, guess they'll be double that at Honda.

thegreatdane

05-11-2009, 06:39 AM

For the love of god dont get brake calipers at honda lol. They are more expencive than gold. They probably havent got them any longer either.

I wasnt sure if you had rebuild kits available for the rear calipers but yea you could try giving the rebuild kit a go. Someone made a howto about it you could look at.

Yes you can get poly bushings for those if you'd like. Otherwise get them at honda. I dont think you can find any non oem bushings at a parts store, I've never seen those bushings here in europe except at honda. They are available as non oem in the US though.

Nafs Asdf

05-11-2009, 09:07 AM

So which poly bushings should I get if I go that route? As theres no kits for 3g's, right?
Guess while I'm at it, it would be good to do a bigger overhaul and do all of the bushings. New shocks wouldn't be all wrong either, shit's gonna get expensive tho. But all that will have to wait til I get the car through inspection.

So for the copper washers I guess Honda is the place to go? If I have time tomorrow I'll go order them, and go to the parts store and order the muffler and caliper rebuild kit.

thegreatdane

05-13-2009, 11:14 AM

You can buy copper washers at many parts stores and steel hardware stores but if you're closer to a honda dealer might as well get them from their shop.

I dont know how many poly bushings that are listed specifically for the 3gee but lxi-incredible just did all of his so look for some of his posts.

Nafs Asdf

05-13-2009, 11:30 AM

Yea, I ordered them from Honda. Want to be sure I get the right ones. Also ordered the muffler and caliper rebuild kit, should be here tomorrow or Friday.

Tomisimo

05-14-2009, 11:34 PM

About rear calipers, Yes youre absolutely right, there is a small rubber ring where the cable goes, it gets dry and fracture over time, and moisture gets in in to caliper. This is why they stop do what they suppose to do. Have same problem on my both cars. lill better on new car but still.
I believe LXi-Inkredible used some civic and other accord bushing kits and used few of doth kits. There is front UCA bushings you can get from NZ. just ask Hauntd ca3. He can help you.

Nafs Asdf

05-17-2009, 03:13 AM

Me and a buddy spent yesterday and this morning with the brakes, changed the washers on the front caliper and took off the rear one.

Couldn't do a full rebuild on the rear caliper since we didn't have any way of making the special tool to get all the stuff open. But we lubed it up and got the hand brake lever working better, it was all frozen when we took it off.

Everything is back on the car. But now, I got a problem. Is there any way to properly bleed the bloody ALB brakes without the ALB Hand Pump Assmbly special damn tool? We tried to just bleed the front left and rear right brakes, but the brake pedal doesn't feel right.

Nafs Asdf

05-17-2009, 10:57 AM

Took it for a small test drive around the block, the brakes work but the pedal is a bit mushy. Now that I think of it, I think it was a bit like this before too. Not as much tho. If I give it a few pumps it stiffens up a lot, so there is air in the system still.

The right handbrake now works again, probably better than the left one. Think the left one is seized up a bit too as the right was, but not nearly as much.

I think it wouldn't be a bad idea to change all the brake fluid either, don't think it's been changed in a long while and there's probably a bunch of different brands in there. Might have to take it somewhere to get that done tho.

thegreatdane

05-17-2009, 12:12 PM

Everything is back on the car. But now, I got a problem. Is there any way to properly bleed the bloody ALB brakes without the ALB Hand Pump Assmbly special damn tool? We tried to just bleed the front left and rear right brakes, but the brake pedal doesn't feel right.

If you do the bleeding properly I think you should be able to get away with only bleeding the brakes at the affected calipers.
If not then you could try skipping step 1 in the bleeding procedure since that is the only step that requires the pump.
You may also be able to find something to replace the honda pump tool, just something that will allow you to pressurize the reservoir (be creative).
Also many auto garages have generic pressure bleeding tools which fits most master cylinders.

Nafs Asdf

05-23-2009, 11:15 AM

Some updates, me and a buddy fixed the spot that needed welding. Well he welded and I watched so nothing would catch on fire... Also changed out the muffler, had to take an angle grinder at the bolts. And no wonder the things been making a racket, there was three finger sized holes and one fist sized in the old muffler... The sound deadening had all gotten packed in the rear half, and the inner pipes were pretty much like a jigsaw puzzle.

Then we were going to bleed the brakes properly, we bought a vacuum/pressure pump tester/bleeder thingy and I had printed out the pages on how to do it from the manual. So I pop the hood, and start looking for the bleed screws on it. Can't see any so I remove some of the intake piping in the way and look closer... Still none. So I look at the manual, and then look at the alb stuff, look at the manual, and again at the albs... They're not the same! :rant:

Apparently the ALBs for 88-89 are different from the earlier ones, and I had the directions from the master manual. So we pack up and call it a day. When I got home I checked the 88 supplement, open the brake page, go to the section for bleeding. 1. Fill master cylinder with brake flud. 2. Connect the ALB checker... ARGHSDF!

:help:

AccordB20A

05-24-2009, 01:43 AM

you help an ALB checker?? you should gibs it to me for a while we has some ALBS that need diagnosis, well my mate does.

when are you installing your box of goodies?!?!?!

Nafs Asdf

05-24-2009, 08:31 AM

No I don't have an ALB checker. But apparently you can't bleed the newer ALBs without one, so I'm lost for what to do. Need to pick the box up from customs, hope I don't have to pay too much to get it out from there.

Adjusted my valves today, and seems like everytime I have the valve cover off I break one of the bolts. So need to order a new one from Honda. Also when I took it out around the block for a test, I get pulled over. Reason being the car wasn't inspected. So I had to drive home with them following me to show them my inspection papers proving I still have time to drive it. But then they decided that they didn't like my wheels, said they have too much offset and that the lugs don't thread all the way. Let me off with a warning for not wearin the seatbelt tho, so I didn't get a fine. But now I have a note on my registration papers saying I have " illegal" wheels. Weird how no one at the inspection ever has said anything about them. I know these wheels have been on the car for a bunch of years before I even got it. I'm going for my recheck on the inspection tomorrow, wonder what they'll say about them.

Nafs Asdf

05-24-2009, 08:52 AM

I'm thinking the above thing with the wheels would never have happened if I hadn't painted them white :(

Nafs Asdf

05-25-2009, 05:52 AM

Just got back from the inspection, passed just fine now :)
Didn't say anything about my wheels either, didn't bother asking about it either in case they would've had something to say then...

Got new registration papers now without the cops comment on them, don't know if they keep the stuff in their own computer systems but if they don't I'm in the clear.

A18A

05-25-2009, 07:25 AM

cool!

Nafs Asdf

05-27-2009, 09:46 AM

Finally got the box O' goodies Aaron sent me, had to pay 18 € to get it out of customs but I can live with that.

Some of the stuff:
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9845/goodies.jpg

Now I just have to figure out how to put them in place... Not sure if I'll end up swapping the cams, the exhaust one had some nasty looking rust on it.

Got the visors installed!
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9582/visorsinstalled.jpg

Just gave them a quick wash before putting them on (car needs a wash too), I was thinking that later I'd sand em down a bit and put a couple of clear coats on them to get rid of the scratches. Now I need one for the sunroof too... Anyone got one for me? (preferrably cheap ;))

Also got the front lip, no pictures of it yet, it's taking a bath. Gonna need a bunch of work before I install it (Aaron, sure you had enough rivets on it? ;)). Going to sand it down and paint it the same color as the car. Think I'll do the Honda text on it with a tire marker like I did with the mudflaps.

As can be seen in the pic, need to repaint my window trim. I washed it in a car wash in the winter, and the paint didn't like the high pressure water jets all that much :(.

What else, oh yeah I got the vinyl stripe all cut out and ready, just need to get myself to put it on. Altho I've been thinking I'd want to go over the car with a buffer before I do that. As the stripe would kinda interfere if I did it the other way around.

Tomisimo

05-27-2009, 10:05 AM

As can be seen in the pic, need to repaint my window trim. I washed it in a car wash in the winter, and the paint didn't like the high pressure water jets all that much

Well thats because you didnt use scratching wool. you can find P120-fine cloth to do the job at any paint store., it simple rifle the surface so paint has something to hold on to, those are so minor that you'll never know they were there after painting it.

Nafs Asdf

05-27-2009, 10:12 AM

Well thats because you didnt use scratching wool. you can find P120-fine cloth to do the job at any paint store., it simple rifle the surface so paint has something to hold on to, those are so minor that you'll never know they were there after painting it.

Actually I did use that. Maybe I just didn't do a thorough enough job with it.

Tomisimo

05-27-2009, 10:18 AM

maybe, or just was poor prep work, maybe you got it contaminated before paint?, or you needed to use chrome striper before, I know that paint dont like chrome.

AccordB20A

05-27-2009, 11:27 AM

loooking good mate.

Nafs Asdf

05-29-2009, 12:01 PM

Took some closer pics of the stuff, tell me what you think. Sorry for the poor quality pics, iPhone's no good at closeups.

Cam as I said got some rust on it :(
This is the biggest spot.
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/7484/rustycam2.jpg

Also opened up the dizzy and cam sensor, to see what shape they were in.
Cam sensor looked pretty clean inside, but I think the dizzy's seen better days. Here's pics of the dizzy.
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/852/dizzy2d.jpg
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/328/dizzy1.jpg
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/520/dizzycap.jpg

The white stuff you see in the cap is all over the dizzy too, I guess it's corroding aluminum? The stuff inside the dizzy got a bunch of rust too.

Also seems like anything made of rubber is literally toast, so at the very least I'll need new seals for them. The casings look pretty similar to the EDM B20A dizzy and cam sensors so maybe the seals will be the same, otherwise I'll need em from JDM land...

And some pics of the lip, done some sanding on it but still a long way to go. Need to find some kind of putty or something to fill the deeper scratches with, not sure what to use as it needs to be flexible as the lip is, but I also need to be able to sand it.
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1828/lip2.jpg
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/306/lip1.jpg

Joay

05-29-2009, 12:47 PM

Did Aaron send you that lip as well, or did you find it in Finland? I've been dying for one since I saw it on one of Tommy's cars.

AccordB20A

05-29-2009, 12:52 PM

yeah i sent him it, theres was one in pick a part too the other day but it only had the front long single piece, the other two were missing

fuck that dizzy is DIRTY inside, i probably should have checked that before i sent it, i think the white stuffs corrosion from water

Hauntd ca3

05-29-2009, 12:59 PM

Nafs Asdf

05-29-2009, 01:04 PM

Did Aaron send you that lip as well, or did you find it in Finland? I've been dying for one since I saw it on one of Tommy's cars.

Yea, doubt I'd find one here. Wouldn't be surprised if this was the only one in the country, same goes for the corners and visors. ;)

fuck that dizzy is DIRTY inside, i probably should have checked that before i sent it, i think the white stuffs corrosion from water

Yeah it is :(
Also the grommet on the wires from the pick up coil fell apart, don't think just the grommet is replaceable. And the thing won't seal without it... Wanna ship me a new dizzy? :hsugh:

Nafs Asdf

05-29-2009, 01:08 PM

with the rust on the cams, find a way to hold the cam in a vise without damaging it and use some 2000 grit or finer wet and dry sand paper.
cut a strip of it bout 2 inchs wide and as long as the sheet of paper.
fold it in half so its an inch wide and and use it sort of like a polishing cloth.
going in only one direction, preferably the same direction as the follower would wipe over it, until the rust is gone.
or if you have a polishing wheel on a bench grinder, use that

I thought about doing something like that. Spent some time googling for ways to remove rust tho, and I think I found something that might be better. Gonna get me some citric acid and give the cams (and maybe some other stuff too) a bath. :)

But I'm afraid any way I do it, might leave a hole where the rust was... It feels like it's pretty deep. But I hope I'm wrong.

AccordB20A

05-29-2009, 01:09 PM

dont has any. you might have to cut its plug off put a new grommet in there and put a new plug on it anyway cause the wires that go into it go different places than the plug like that on your motor

Nafs Asdf

05-29-2009, 01:31 PM

For clarification, this is the thing I'm talking about.

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/7268/thisthingy.jpg

Nafs Asdf

05-30-2009, 02:26 AM

Cams getting an acid bath :D
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2319/cambath.jpg

Been soaking them for an hour or two, and most of the rust is already gone! Going to keep them there til tonight or tomorrow.

Nafs Asdf

05-30-2009, 09:48 AM

I took the cams out of the tub now, seems like they cleaned up pretty good. I dried em off and soaked em in wd40 so the won't go rusty again. There's one thing I was wondering about, the treatment kinda dulled down most of the lobes, the highest part still stayed shiny. Would I need to polish up those parts?

Also took apart the dizzy, I'll post up some pics when I get on the comp. On with my phone right now. The bearing sounds like it has a bunch of crap in it, also looking at the diagrams of the edm dizzy of looks like the cap seal is different. So I'm gonna need if not another dizzy, a bunch of parts from jdm land for the rebuild...

Need to study up ok the wiring and stuff too. Anyone have the pinout for the jdm PJ5 ecu?

Nafs Asdf

05-30-2009, 11:10 AM

In this pic you see what I was talking about, only the top part of the lobes retained their shine. Is this something I should worry about? What I'm guessing is that the parts that got dulled down were somewhat corroded even if it wasn't visible, and when the corrosion was cleared off the shine went with it...

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1872/camcleaned.jpg

And the dizzy.
Sorry Aaron, but every time I take a look at it I notice more stuff that don't look good. I noticed a bunch of the wires were in the same condition as the seals, the shielding is broken off right at the plugs (inside the dizzy), and the wires themselves are looking dangerous too. :(

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/7140/dizzyapart.jpg

AccordB20A

05-30-2009, 03:44 PM

cant do much with 20 year old distributors aye, but it came off a working car and i sold it in working condition, Might pay to take the cap off from now on if i sell any more tho!

Nafs Asdf

05-31-2009, 01:26 AM

Yea, I know it came off a working car. But if I had put it on, it would've
A. leaked
B. failed in one way or another pretty soon.

Bottom line is I'll still need a dizzy if I'm to do this swap. Can you find me another one? And yeah take the cap off this time. ;)
Also, if you can get fresh seals for the cam sensor and dizzy I'll need those too.

Nafs Asdf

06-09-2009, 10:55 AM

Finally fixed my leaking valve cover the other day, all it took was an OEM gasket... Apparently random brand ones just don't work. So I thought I'd wash the engine bay a bit to be sure it doesn't leak. Was so damn gunky before that it was kinda hard to tell. Need to get that valve cover painted some day, any ideas on what to do to it? I was kinda thinking about painting it gold to go with the gold top ECU conversion.

Aaron if you read this, when are you on AIM these days with your job and all? I need that dizzy, would be nice to have everything by July when I get my vacation...

Also gotta make myself go wash it from underneath, a LOT of oily gunk there. Hoping all of it is from the leaky valve cover, which it might very well be too as it's been leaking for over a year. Otherwise cleaning it up will atleast let me see if it's leaking somewhere else.

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/7651/baycleaned1.jpg

I'm looking forward to losing all those damn vacuum lines.

markmdz89hatch

06-09-2009, 11:04 AM

so fresh and so clean. What vacuum lines? pshhh, take a peek under the hood of a carb'd car and then let me hear you complain about vac lines. No really though, it looks great.

Nafs Asdf

06-09-2009, 11:17 AM

so fresh and so clean. What vacuum lines? pshhh, take a peek under the hood of a carb'd car and then let me hear you complain about vac lines. No really though, it looks great.

Haha, thanks. And yeah, I think I'll stick to EFI ;)

AccordB20A

06-09-2009, 11:39 AM

eww carbs ftl!! lol

ill get onto checking out that other dizzzzzzzy so win can occur

Nafs Asdf

06-09-2009, 11:41 AM

eww carbs ftl!! lol

ill get onto checking out that other dizzzzzzzy so win can occur

ooo, there shall be win!

Nafs Asdf

06-18-2009, 09:36 AM

Been working on the lip for a bit, filled in the cracks and cuts with body filler and sprayed on some rattle can filler after I had sanded them down. Waiting for the filler to dry now, still need to sand them and then they just need some paint.

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7995/lips1k.jpg

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/779/lips2m.jpg

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/3854/lips3q.jpg

My vacation starts next week so when I get the new dizzy from Aaron I'm gonna tackle the ecu/ignition swap.

Nafs Asdf

06-18-2009, 10:08 AM

Pretty much dried up now, so thought I'd snap another pic.

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/9603/lips4.jpg

codyJDM

06-18-2009, 10:47 AM

Bad ass :thumbup:

carotman

06-18-2009, 11:09 AM

Just get a dizzy from a 3g prelude.

Nafs Asdf

06-18-2009, 11:21 AM

Just get a dizzy from a 3g prelude.

I am. Funny thing is that it's a hell of a lot cheaper for me to buy it from half-way around the world and get it shipped here than it is to go to the junkyard and pick one up.

I've asked a bunch of people parting out 3g ludes, the local JY and checked a national online JY database... Prices range from 70-200 euro (~100-280 USD), for a used dizzy in completely random condition!?!?!? And it'd probably be another 10 euro for shipping it to me.

I think I'm payin at most 30 euro to get it from Aaron.

carotman

06-18-2009, 11:46 AM

Hahaha that's nuts! I guess the high value of the Euro allows you to get great deals overseas.

AccordB20A

06-18-2009, 11:50 AM

i should really get onto checking the inside of that dizzy too

A18A

06-18-2009, 04:12 PM

and i should really get onto shipping those alb sensors to aaron lol

Nafs Asdf

06-19-2009, 01:46 AM

Hahaha that's nuts! I guess the high value of the Euro allows you to get great deals overseas.

Well kinda, if you compare with local prices. But still expensive compared to most parts of the world as I need to pay shipping. And if the stuff gets stuck in customs I have to pay up a bunch more (any fees customs decide I have to pay, plus 22% VAT on the merchandise, shipping and said fees.)

i should really get onto checking the inside of that dizzy too

and i should really get onto shipping those alb sensors to aaron lol

yes :)

Nafs Asdf

06-19-2009, 03:01 AM

Test fitted the lip. It will take a while before I get it painted, don't have the equipment myself, and I don't want to just rattle can it. Going to do it in my girls uncles garage like the car was done, and I'll fix up the scratched bumper at the same time. But in the mean time here's a pic of it test fitted and one painted in photoshop. ;)

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/5233/liptestfit2.jpg

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/4856/liptestfit2shopped.jpg

GraniteLXI

06-19-2009, 03:20 AM

Wow, looks nice to me...that photoshopped pic looks great too- its almost hard to tell that you colored it in and put "Honda" on it haha.

Ever consider painting the lip a gloss black? Wonder how that would look, also as it is right now the white seems to almost match your rims XD

Nafs Asdf

06-19-2009, 03:37 AM

Yeah, I actually tried it as black in photoshop but the red looked much better. Might look good if my side trim and top of the bumpers was still black.

Nafs Asdf

06-19-2009, 04:58 AM

Swapped out my ricey painted chrome thing on the shifter for a stock one. Think it looks much better now. :)

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/6738/shiftere.jpg

carotman

06-19-2009, 05:33 AM

Nice lip!

Is it common where you live? I'm missing one of the side parts :(

carotman

06-19-2009, 05:33 AM

Nice lip!

Is it common where you live? I'm missing one of the side parts :(

Nafs Asdf

06-19-2009, 05:47 AM

It's probably the only one in the country... Bought it from Aaron.

Nafs Asdf

06-19-2009, 05:47 AM

It's probably the only one in the country... Bought it from Aaron.

thegreatdane

06-19-2009, 09:03 AM

Sweet :) Can you upload the picture where you made the lip black because I think I'm going to have to vote for black :) I think it will look good together with the black grille.

Btw regarding the JDM B20 parts swap I have previously expressed on this forum that I thought the cams were the same as I attempted the JDM B20 conversion myself once.
Today I had a closer look on a set of JDM goldtop B20A, JDM blacktop B20A and B20A2 cams. Conclusion:
I was right, they are the same.

I thought I would spare you the trouble of putting in other cams for no reason.

The JDM B20A ecu you got is without EGR right?

carotman

06-19-2009, 09:11 AM

so, if the cams are the same bewteen the black and gold top, I'm pretty sure they have the same power since their compression ratio is also the same.

Tomisimo

06-19-2009, 09:38 AM

So what makes them have different power output? digital timing?

Nafs Asdf

06-19-2009, 09:44 AM

http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/4262/liptestfit2shopped2.jpg

I don't really like how it looks as black. I was however thinking of painting the center grille part of the lower bumper black, not sure of it tho.

Sweet :) Can you upload the picture where you made the lip black because I think I'm going to have to vote for black :) I think it will look good together with the black grille.

Btw regarding the JDM B20 parts swap I have previously expressed on this forum that I thought the cams were the same as I attempted the JDM B20 conversion myself once.
Today I had a closer look on a set of JDM goldtop B20A, JDM blacktop B20A and B20A2 cams. Conclusion:
I was right, they are the same.

I thought I would spare you the trouble of putting in other cams for no reason.

The JDM B20A ecu you got is without EGR right?

What about B20A8 cams, any information on those?
The ECU should be without EGR. It's out of an 85 BA1 lude.

so, if the cams are the same bewteen the black and gold top, I'm pretty sure they have the same power since their compression ratio is also the same.

What if the difference is the same as EDM black (A8) and goldtops (A2), one has more emissions stuff?

Nafs Asdf

06-19-2009, 09:45 AM

So what makes them have different power output? digital timing?

Shouldn't be, both I think have PGM-IG

Tomisimo

06-19-2009, 09:58 AM

Yes but we have vacuum advanced dizzy. The B20a had digital advanced even if its not OBD1

Nafs Asdf

06-19-2009, 10:06 AM

Yes but we have vacuum advanced dizzy. The B20a had digital advanced even if its not OBD1

Were you talking about the difference between EDM and JDM B20's or the difference between gold/blacktop JDM ones? I was saying that both JDM engines have electric advance.

So if everything else is pretty much the same, the power difference should be in the electronic advance and ECU programming.

thegreatdane

06-19-2009, 12:40 PM

Which leads us to another suspicion previously expressed by me. DOES the JDM B20 goldtops even have anywhere near 160hp?

All the stock EDM B20A1 and B20A2 engines I've seen dynoed have had ~145hp. This is suspiciously close to the JDM B20A blacktop rating of 145hp...

The biggest difference between JDM black and goldtop is the intake manifold and a more modern ecu on the blacktop.
On USDM A20A3's the '88-'89 intake manifold, a new ecu and a new exhaust manifold means a good bump in power.
So if anything I would expect the JDM blacktop to have more power than the goldtop. Otherwise they would have to have made a really crappy map in the blacktop ecu.

Regarding the lip, yes that does look a bit weird lol, but I still vote for black and painting the grille part of the bumper black as you say would also help a lot.

carotman

06-20-2009, 05:31 AM

The map in the bcklatop ECU is similar to the 88-91 Prelude B20A. Even the ECU are 99.9% the same.

I haven't checked the goldtop maps yet.

AccordB20A

06-20-2009, 03:44 PM

Interesting stuff. ill dyno mine when i get it rebuilt.

Nafs Asdf

06-21-2009, 01:28 AM

Aren't JDM blacktops more heavy on emissions components? Which is what the difference between the B20A2 and B20A8 is.

Anyhow, even if the difference isn't that big or even non-existant, wouldn't swapping to the electronic advance still be an upgrade? And it would get rid of most vac lines that clutter up the bay.

carotman

06-21-2009, 07:22 AM

Electronic advance is definetly a big upgrade!

Nafs Asdf

06-21-2009, 10:03 AM

I wonder why Honda didn't use it in the European and American models.

carotman

06-22-2009, 06:45 AM

Well, the A20A never used it in any market.

I guess it's only for costs savings that they kept the vacuum advance.

Nafs Asdf

06-22-2009, 11:40 AM

Bought myself a timing light and tried setting my timing and I got a question. The mark on the flywheel, is it at TDC or 15° BTDC? Right now I either have my timing where it should be or 15 degrees advanced depending on where that mark is... As I set the timing spot on to the mark with the timing light set at 15° advanced (it got a nifty dial on it to set the advance anywhere between 0 and 60 degrees)

All I found in the manuals about it is the stuff in the main manual for the A20's, and it talks about a red mark... All I could see was a shiny mark, like it was engraved.

And for the B20A debate:
According to the shop manuals the B20A2 and B20A8 have different cams. The part numbers in the EPC are different too.

Cam lobe heights from the shop manual:
B20A2 - IN 33.676 / EX 33.737
B20A8 - IN 37.716 / EX 37.781

Nafs Asdf

06-22-2009, 12:17 PM

Guess I should add that I did the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected... Tried to find an answer on here but I only get confused. Can't seem to find a single answer, each thread has half a dozen different "right" ways to do it.

Nafs Asdf

06-24-2009, 01:13 AM

Played around with the timing a bit again, I'm pretty sure that mark is TDC so now I set it to 15° BTDC with the vacuum advance connected, think I'm going to leave it like that.

Right now I'm putting on the pinstripe, got one side done and took a break cause it's hot like hell. Here's a couple pics.
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/2545/striped1.jpg

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/3822/striped2.jpg

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9366/striped3.jpg

A18A

06-24-2009, 01:23 AM

lol wow, just see now that you've been needing a alb sensor since the start of this thread, over a year ago haha

AccordB20A

06-24-2009, 01:25 AM

not bad, looks great

Nafs Asdf

06-24-2009, 08:59 AM

lol wow, just see now that you've been needing a alb sensor since the start of this thread, over a year ago haha

lol, yea. Can't really find one at the junkyard and can't afford to buy one from Honda. So was great that you're de-albing your car :D

not bad, looks great

Thanks, I started thinking it might have been better if it was 1-2mm thinner, but I guess it's ok like it is.

AccordB20A

06-24-2009, 09:24 PM

got the alb sensors from matt today

just a kick kwestion... where did you get an ALB checker from?

Nafs Asdf

06-24-2009, 09:38 PM

Still don't have an ALB checker, said that already earlier I believe.

AccordB20A

06-24-2009, 09:56 PM

eye fail. give me a IM when/if you want that dizzy etc etc

Nafs Asdf

06-25-2009, 12:24 PM

Getting all the crap of the cam sensor. Still in progress, gonna sand it a bit more to get all black spots off and then figure out what to do with the scratches from the sanding. Either get lazy and leave it like that, kinda has a brushed look to it, or figure out how to polish the scratches out. Any good ideas? Maybe I need to get myself a dremel, with some polishing bits or something...

http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/8543/camsensor.jpg

accordion89

06-25-2009, 03:40 PM

that pistripe is so sexy!

AccordB20A

06-25-2009, 10:27 PM

going for the bling bling look aye

Nafs Asdf

06-26-2009, 12:23 AM

that pistripe is so sexy!

Thanks :)

going for the bling bling look aye

Heh, not sure what I'm going for. Just wanted it to look clean for starters, don't know what I'll end up doing.

Civic Accord Honda

06-26-2009, 12:41 AM

the pinstripeing is defiantly hawt

Nafs Asdf

06-26-2009, 01:24 AM

Thanks
:D

Nafs Asdf

06-29-2009, 10:05 AM

Here's how the cam sensor turned out, not perfect but good enough for now... Unless I get the sudden urge to work on it some more. The TEC text is a bitch tho, and pic is crappy as usual.

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/5868/camsensorpolished.jpg

MessyHonda

07-01-2009, 11:38 PM

looks like the engine bay will look nice

Nafs Asdf

07-12-2009, 11:34 AM

Well yesterday I was giving a buddy a ride home at 3 am, he lives about 30km outside of town. And when I was on my way back I took the scenic route it was pretty foggy and the sun was just coming up. Times like this I wish I had a decent camera, now all I had was my iphone. Anyways here's a pic, only got one that came out good enough to be worth showing. Wish I had taken more shots tho but I was tired and wanted to get home to sleep. There was an awesome view a bit before this spot. This is in the middle of an ancient meteor crater.

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/7065/soderfjardin1.jpg

Tomisimo

07-12-2009, 11:52 AM

Nice. I think that any 3Gee would look good in Lappajarvi crater :D

Nafs Asdf

07-12-2009, 11:59 AM

Nice. I think that any 3Gee would look good in Lappajarvi crater :D

Heh, I would rather not put my 3g in lappajärvi crater, it's filled with water. ;)
This is from söderfjärden.

Tomisimo

07-12-2009, 12:14 PM

aha.. I see. I need to visit this crater!! dos it has an adj? or its eroded already?
I just love astronomy and stuff like that.
edit: offtopic but
http://www.sundom.fi/contentlibrary/Sundom/soderfjarden_for_ca_3800_ar_sedan_big.jpg
6.6km in diameter.

Nafs Asdf

07-12-2009, 12:22 PM

Doublepost...

Nafs Asdf

07-12-2009, 12:24 PM

aha.. I see. I need to visit this crater!! dos it has an adj? or its eroded already?
I just love astronomy and stuff like that.

I'm not sure what you mean... Try googling söderfjärden, might find something on wikipedia about it too.

And yes you should come visit. Let's have a Nordic meet here at my place :D

Nafs Asdf

07-17-2009, 10:35 AM

markmdz89hatch

07-17-2009, 10:47 AM

Went and ordered new bushings and bolts for the lower front forks today... Anyone wanna take a guess at what the fuckers charge for one freaking bolt over here?

15 euro a piece! Bushings were 30 something euros each too. :rant: (1 euro = about 1.41 USD)

He gave me a bit of a discount tho, 82 euro I think he said I'd have to pay for them. Did a quick check on hondapartsdeals.com, and you Americans are lucky. About 30 euro for the same stuff.

Would someone in the US be willing to buy OEM spare parts for me and ship them here when I need something small like this, I bet even with shipping costs I'd save a buttload.

That blows. Here's Majestic's page: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=2DR+SEI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=FRONT+LOWER+ARM

If you really do want to buy things here and have someone ship to you so you can save some $$, and don't mind the wait, I'll help you out. Majestic is not far from me (about a 2.5hr drive) so their shipping costs to me are not as bad as if they had to go to say Cali.

Nafs Asdf

07-17-2009, 10:55 AM

That blows. Here's Majestic's page: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=2DR+SEI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=FRONT+LOWER+ARM

If you really do want to buy things here and have someone ship to you so you can save some $$, and don't mind the wait, I'll help you out. Majestic is not far from me (about a 2.5hr drive) so their shipping costs to me are not as bad as if they had to go to say Cali.

Sounds good, but can't get that page to load... It times out.

And the ship kinda sailed on these parts cause I ordered them already, but there will likely be more. Or maybe I'll call them tomorrow morning and ask if I can cancel the order, usually takes a week before it arrives anyhow.

What kind of wait would we be talking about if I got them through you? And could you give some kind of estimate on the shipping to here?

Nafs Asdf

07-17-2009, 12:07 PM

Got the page to load now, dunno why but need to use a proxy to get to it.

epic1400cs

07-18-2009, 05:31 AM

The parts price in EU is very high isn't it. Unfortunately our car was either made in Japan or North America and all our parts for EU are coming from Japan. They have an EU warehouse in Belguim and if there is no stock there, the loca dealer have to order from Japan. Funny thing is that quite few parts sold in US are made in Japan but still the price is as same as in Japan. Its unfair!

The front lip looks great! If you lower your car together with front lip, the minimum clearance will be very little - hope you don't have lots of speed bump which may damage the lip.

ESDEEZ

07-18-2009, 07:30 AM

Yeah, European parts are messed up. My old Honda dealer once told me I needed a new steering rack to pass a roadworthiness test. They said it cost £5000 (Around $10,000) and that they didn't know if the belgium store had one in stock. And the only way to find out was to order and pay for it! If it wasnt't in stock then it was basically tough coz they no longer made em in Japan....

Unsupisingly i went to a local garage and it passed....

Honda dealers seam to have alot of hate for the old cars... They only want new sales.. :P

Nafs Asdf

07-18-2009, 01:37 PM

Yeah tell me about it. And here in Finland I have a feeling it's about as expensive as it gets. I know some people over here order stuff from the UK because it's cheaper. Tires, brakes and aftermarket stuff.

epic1400 - Unfortunately there are quite many speedbumps over here, but looks like it's gonna take a while before I get it lowered because of my troubles with the lower fork bolt. The springs should lower it 40 mm, I'm hoping I won't have too many issues with clearance...

Ordered a set of these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-89-Honda-Accord-Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Bushing-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZQ7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3 a30QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem43 99204087QQitemZ290331836551QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTru ckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories), will probably be getting the bolts from Mark. Just hope I'll be able to cancel my order at the stealership or else I'll be stuck with some expensive ass bolts and bushings.

Hoping to have the lip and bumper painted before august, so I can put it on.

Nafs Asdf

07-19-2009, 05:53 AM

Took off the bumper, now I just need to get myself to sand and filler it.

Did a compression test, got decent numbers. Numbers are a bit high just like on the A16 (compression test on that in my other thread), so I'd guess there's some buildup raising the compression.

190 psi on #1, and between 180 and 185 on the other three. Semi-warm engine and full throttle.

epic1400cs

07-19-2009, 11:57 AM

I know some people over here order stuff from the UK because it's cheaper. Tires, brakes and aftermarket stuff.

epic1400 - Unfortunately there are quite many speedbumps over here, but looks like it's gonna take a while before I get it lowered because of my troubles with the lower fork bolt. The springs should lower it 40 mm, I'm hoping I won't have too many issues with clearance....
Luckily these days aftermarket parts suppliers started price competition in UK so the price is getting a bit cheaper. I am hoping that Honda dealership will join the race too! :D

For the lip, here is the measurement I noted for myself.

With H&R (40mm drop) and OEM short lip, the front clearance was 160mm, scrape sometime but not too bad)
With Eibach Prokit spring(25mm drop), the road clearance w OEM short lip 175mm and didn't scrape at all.
With Prokit spring, the clearance w OEM Airdam (long lip) 140mm
So I raise the front 20mm(=clearance 160mm) by moving the front spring seat on my Konis 20mm upward but it still scrape if I drive into speed bump with moderate speed(may be due to softer spring). Scrape when it landed from speed bump rather than climbing up.

With your 40mm spring I assume your clearance will be around 125mm.

My assumption is the clearance limit is around 165mm with speed bump.

The sedan and aero might have different front clearance. Also Finish speed bump and UK ones might be different so might be ok.
However, I recommend you to keep the original lip so that you can go back to short lip if needed (thats I didn't and chopped it up for rear!!)