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Damn Tim, looks like you yanked out the motor too. Maybe it is just the dark pic.
Edit- alternator is a bitch to change, have to pull some of the suspension out.
nope,checked,it's still in there,might have been a little eaisier. I wonder who the genius at honda was who decided to make the alternator come out from the bottom. I forgot what a pain this was,haven't done this since 2002, that old one looks like it was in a bar fight and lost. this job pretty much made my day go down the :toilet: . even a rain delay,went from 70 degrees and sunny to freezing ass cold and rainy.
its gold!!!!!!
the seal for the driveshaft was leaking too,so the driveshaft came out,had to drain the transmission,and the freaking crossmember had to come out,I had made some special drivers for putting those seals in,but they still wouldn't drive in right,tok about four tries.Quote:
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
Thanks for the headsup. I have both seals for the half-shafts to put in, along with new C-clips. I was wondering what I'm going to drive them in with. I'm thinking something along the lines of a pretty big socket to fit the diameter. Hopefully something will work.
Yeah man those alternators for these cars are a real pain. I got lucky when I bought my hatch, the previous owner had just replaced it. Mechanics will charge you $500 to replace it.
nice shirt....and rockin da gold altinator yo...lol
$500 4 machanics 2 change it?!?!?!? wtf! could buy another car for dat price, or just buy a *proper* socket for it and change it yourself, and you can get the alt out thru the top on a carbed engine, it aint that hard, just need 6 point sockets, or you'll end up like my alt bolt, you dont needa take off anything to get it out either, but yet again you have a LHD so that will prolly be alot different. btw, very very nice shiney golden alt there :)
It's more like a $250 job for a quick mechanic. Maybe more at the Honda dealership.
haha tim.
you can get one of those seal driver sets with the steped drivers,that should work,and fit other seals too. it just holds the seal straight while you drive it in. I had made a set for the left and right transmission seals. remember the right side seal is a lot bigger then the left so i'm not sure if they make a driver to fit. it's a lot eaisier to get to though,so you might be able to tap it in. the left side has the cross member in the way which can be unbolted,and the exaust pipe in the way,if you have a driver with a long shaft you can tap it in from the oposite side of the pipe. what I did was put the driver in place then put a long piece of pipe on it and my wife hit the other end of the pipe with a hammer.Quote:
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
that's why I hate the carbed cars.... took me like an hour to get one out of a carb because of rusted bolts and such, however, I DID manage to get it out through the top.
At the time i didn't know there was a difference between the carbed and EFI alternators. So i had to go back to the J/Y and pull one from an EFI car.
the efi car took me 5 minutes... i even timed it :D
then to put it back in is about 10 or 15 minutes.... alternators are easy shit.... intake manifolds are the hardest things to ever take out IMO.
your master cyl and booster,also your brake lines going to it are on the opposite side. thats mostly what gets in the way. on these carbed cars the alternator can't go up,sideways in eithier direction,only straight down,which happens to be occupied by the same space as the cv axle. last time I had to replace it I tried everything possible to get it out without removing the axle. even removing the pulley while it was still in the car,just won't go. also the lower alt bracket has to come out because it's in the way before the alternator will come out. of course I had loctited it in,like I do everything else,real fun to get loose. :rant:OH the alternator is just a stock replacment nappa unit,I do like the gold anodized pulley though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Overdosed A18A
I removed the alternator from going across the firewall behind the intake. I had to take loose a heater core switch on the firewall. It was a tight fit. Probably not the right way to do it, but it worked.
That was years ago. I started thinking, "how in the f*ck is this coming out? This was before I puchased haynes & chiltons manuals too.
what I could never figure out is why didn't they switch the location of the ps pump or the ac compressor when they designed this? I mean how often do you pull a ps pump or ac unit vs. an alternator. I'll remember that though if I ever have to replace one on the side of the road. On my 81 civics the alternator was right on top. as a mattter of fact I had swapped in a 68 amp delco instead of the factory 25 amp unit,fit right in just by drilling one of the holes on the alternator bigger. on that car running the lights,the radio,and the ac would cause the bettery to go dead even with a perfectly good alternator. it was never designed properly for ac,the ac was installed at the dealership as an aftermarket item.Quote:
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
On these carbed cars, you can usually get the alternator out from the passenger side. You have to find a way to get it through the heater code hoses but it can be done. On the EFI cars it's a breese to remove.
For the seals, I usually use the old seal as a driver to install the new one. You can hammer it in with a rubber mallet and you don't rink damaging the new seal this way.
