Printable View
How much do they charge for replacement keys at the dealership? I've heard anywhere from $10 to $80, but that seems way to high even for dealership prices. I would much rather have a factory looking key, than the cheap looking ones that i got with the car.
You can find factory blanks on eBay. Of course, by the time you pay for shipping, it might be even more than the dealer. Just make sure that the dealer is going to give you the factory keys and not the same cheesy keys you can get for a couple bucks at Wal-Mart.
Energy's is for teh front and back of the shift torque rod only. Caedda's is for the front of the torque rod and all 3 pivot points in the shift rod. Look at pictures of both. I have already put the Energy suspension kit on my car but I need to replace the bushings in the shift rod itself to fix the slop from worn bushings.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Just bought a kit from him. No clue if it has shipped yet though. I'll make a write up with pictures of course shortly after they arrive. It said it could take a week to 4 weeks to ship if the parts are not all stocked. I'm excited and can't wait to get them.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/20/ytura2yz.jpg
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks Dr_Snooz , i stopped by the dealer today and they just had the knock offs :/ well to ebay it is!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
This is the transmission torque rod bushings...Not the shift rod bushings. I already got this kit with the misleading words shifter bushings. They don't go anywhere on the shift rod...Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
Cheddas bushings for the 86-89 integras will not work as our shifter bushings. He contacted me earlier and explained they were for a d-series. No luck on that end. I'll measure some stuff up though and hopefully he'll cut us some. :)
I suspected as much. I went to the stealer awhile ago for a factory distributor oring. Instead of the sealed Honda bag with a part number on it, however, they handed me a bare oring. It was probably from the same Harbor Freight oring kit that I have at home. Still, they charged me $3.50 for it. There's nothing like paying 10x more than every other place for the same junk. I don't know how the dealer part departments stay in business. Yesterday they charged me $10 for another oring (too big to be in my kit this time). Next time, I'll be using RTV. Thieving rats.Quote:
Originally Posted by TKP89
damnn man, i feel like the only way to get anything thats a genuine honda part is used or ebay. with the key blanks i ended up paying 5 bucks for two which i dont feel too bad about paying for, probably a lot cheaper than if the dealer did have them.
The dealer out here was like $5-6 but they punched them for free.
Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
I cant believe this thread is still going lol, the other one I started years ago, the what are you doing thread, went through several revivals and disappeared. Probably the only thread to have so many pages it crashed the server rofl
That's interesting since he has the shifter linkage upgrade listed on the 86-89 accord page as well as the 86-89 Integra page. Did he give you the measurements on the bushings?Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
No. Its not listed on the 86-89 accord page either. I went through a link on here to find them. That's why I asked if they fit on here. I kept hearing they'd fit, but if they fit, why not list them for our car...he refunded me the money though. They are for a d series essentially.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2
let me look it up a kit that fits the civic and crx is the exact fit for our cars, thats what I used
here's the thread. The energy suspension part numbers that fit our cars are on here. I'm sure they still make them, but if not,this is a popular kit, and is probably on ebay https://www.3geez.com/forum/performan...ack-again.html
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/22/vuhyhy9a.jpg
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2
I need the bushings that go to the bottom rod in the picture. I've already installed the civic one everyone keeps referring to. I need the aluminum spacer you made basically. That part. Can you make another? Do you still have the dimensions used? I was just gonna order some Poly stick the right dimension and cut it to size...
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2
I can take it back out and measure when i get a chance,do you have the two plastic pieces that go on the end?
Yes, they're both cracked though...and worn quite down badly
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2
Did you use both energy suspension bushings? One goes at the back to support the shift assembly, and one goes in the torque rod at the transmission
Yes, and it has alot less torque movement when shifting hhard, but the shifter itself still has play. You can see it when you crawl under the car. I need to replace it all somehow. Chedda said he'd cut some if I could get the sizing for him as he doesn't have a 3gee.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2
I will try and measure this weekend, can you see if someone can find you some of those plastic things? The aluminum piece was simple i just need to reverse engineer my own part
I can try. I can really measure the ttransmission gear selector shaft easy. I still have that blown transmission sitting on the backburner to use the casing for the b series gears. I just have never really had spare money to sink into a good quality micrometer to make true best measurements with, and I know you have one.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2
Energysuspensionparts.com has universal bushing in a rather large collection but they're mostly made sae size and even with some cutting down, which one to order and try?
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Prevail 2
im talking about the little plastic pieces that go on eithier side of the factory linkage bushings, maby someone has a good set on a parts car,Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
I wasn't clear enough on that, it is in the 86-89 accord page on the web store on Chedda's site, not the product page.Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
1986 - 1989 Honda Accord
I can help with the aluminum bushing, but you will need to hunt down a couple of the plastic factory pieces like these http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...e/S4021611.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by firefighterwhite89
I paid him for that kit in specific and i sent him a message with the payment double checking that the bushings would fit our 3gee. I got a straight up no answer and a refund...he told me that they would not fit...So, IDK. Anyone on here using his kit and can verify it fits correctly?Quote:
Originally Posted by HLW
I have two questions..
1. my 1987 honda accords Dx transmission kicks really hard into Drive. how can I fix that?
2. is it possible to replace my engine mounts without taking the engine completely out? I dont wanna have to mess with all those vacuum lines again!
1. When was trans fluid changed last? If its been a while then change it. Use either honda atf-z1 from the dealer or royal purple if u can afford it. Do NOT use dexronQuote:
Originally Posted by alex_crisp2
as it says on the dip stick.
2. Yes. A jack under the oil pan(with a piece of wood so u don't damage the oil pan) And just do one at a time with jack closest to which ever one you are working on.
- I feel like a complete idiot asking this, but how do I find the type of engine I have...someone gave me a 5spd '87 Accord LX Sedan and I want to know as much about it before I start work on the car.
- What are the best idiot-proof bolt-on upgrades for performance and handling? I am going to be replacing the broken clutch with a mechanic friend (I know nothing about this car)...are there any upgrades I can do while that area is all disassembled?
- What do I do for exterior looks? What are the best cheap rims for this deep blue color? Also, could I have your guys opinions on plasti-dipping the roof black? Maybe the trunk and back bumper as well?
You can find out what engine you have by looking for the engine code stamp like this http://asia.vtec.net/topics/engcode1.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by pajamas95
Judging by the looks of the picture I'd say your car has been sitting for a while. The best upgrade for you right now would be a tune up. Change the oil, spark plugs....
For cheap rims I'd say buy used rims off of Craigslist. Plasti dipping the roof wouldn't be a bad idea. Looks like the roof gotten eaten up by the sun pretty badly.
Is there a place I can start a temporary build thread until I can get foundation membership?
^ Start an "update thread" in "pictures & videos" under appearance.
new here :) want to make a build thread in project central but don't have the tab that says "+post new thread". appears in other areas but not this one?.. help
From the description: "All users may view and reply to threads, but a Foundation Membership is required to create a build thread."
Damn :(
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
you can join the foundation for like 5 bucksQuote:
Originally Posted by clean87sedan
^^^ And it's totally worth it.
I love your dash, BTW. Join the Foundation and put up some good pics of your car for us.
I just bought an 89 accord dx. It seemed to run pretty good i drove it from the point of purchase about 70miles to my house on the freeway i realized that my 5th gear wasnt working, and about a block from home the temp gauge spiked. (Pretty positive i resolved this issue)
Also my idle is extremely "odd" its just fluctuating alot, ill have my foot on gas and completely off the clutch before i begin to move, and when i shift gears acceleration time is extremely slow as well as my rpms will jump then decrease to where theu should be when changing gears....
When the car is running it shakes feels like its gonna stall?
Also i had trouble starting it tonight but its only 52 degrees Fahrenheit out, so that a carb issue?
Any thing that can point me to the diagnoses of these problems and how to fix would be greatly appreciated also the quicker the better as to i have class Saturday and no way to get there!
Lucy/ Kyle these carbs are finicky, start by removing air cleaner and check for damage or loose vacuum hose, assloads of them.
Spray down the linkages and moving parts with wd40. Coolant sensors control a lot of what you describe as well so low coolant and burnt up thermostat can affect those
first off i can learn quickly and can follow instructions well but i am current;y not to knowledgeable about cars but im learning....
there was a loose screen possibly a sensor not 100% sure though, it was on the bottom of the radiator and i was most positive that thats where was my leak. i got that all taken care of and it was staying cool. but after about a 5 mile drive at around 50mph it did not read hot but i could here the coolant (premixed 50/50) bubbling, got a a new rad cap and you could still here a bubbling noise but not near as loud or long...
BUT this morning i had a nice little puddle of coolant under my car kind of underneath the overflow.... and i could see coolant sitting on my bleed valve/nut but the bleeder was tight?
If you overfill the coolant reservoir, coolant will bubble out the top and make a mess on the driveway like you describe. If the temps are cold, then any coolant left on the bleed bolt from bleeding will not evaporate overnight. You may have fixed the leak and are dealing with residual issues now. Just keep an eye on your levels to make sure they aren't going down.
Your drivability problems sound like a bad clutch to me, but it's hard to tell from your description. You could have some other things going on, including a bad head gasket.
I'd say try to relax. From your description, it doesn't sound like anything is badly wrong with the car. It will keep running enough to get you to class. Learn how to troubleshoot and test for problems before spending money. That will save you an enormous amount of money in the long run. Always start with the simple, cheap stuff and move toward the more expensive when you fix things. Also, download the manual and read it thoroughly before opening the toolbox. Make sure you know everything you'll be doing and every part you'll need before you start a repair. Otherwise, you'll end up frantically calling around for obscure parts on a Sunday afternoon, desperately trying to get your car running enough to get to work Monday morning. (Can't tell you how many times I've done that.)
I have a 1987 Honda Prelude SI. My injectors are not getting any signal to fire. I have fuel going to the fuel rail and spark at the spark plugs. Does anyone have any recommendation on how to fix this issue?
So im rebuilding my carb today, so far going smoothly but after carb is finished i plan on flushing my fluids just, plugs wires regular tune up stuff.....
But is there anyway i can look at my gears or gearbox without removing the transmission?
Attempting to get a proper diagnosis of the no fifth gear
The ten mm bolts on the black cover on the side of the transmission can be removed. Fifth gear is housed inside it
Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk
Bcrumbley, your ecu may be fried. That's what controls the signal for the injection system
Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk
The trans oil should be drained before looking in there correct?
Pull one of the plugs off of an injector and check to see if there is 12 volts on one of the wires while the key is in the run position.Quote:
Originally Posted by bcrumbley33
If there is then you have a sensor or ecu issue, if there's not then you have a blown fuse or bad wire somewhere.
Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
unless you like a messQuote:
Originally Posted by lucytripping
Check the resistance on your injector resistor. It should be 5-7 ohms. Find more info in the manual on p. 12-61.
Yes sir. I don't think you have to drain all of it but I could be wrong. When you fill it back up use a synchromesh formula. You'll like it best
Sent from my SPH-M840 using Tapatalk
Havent gotten to the transmission yet ha this carb rebuild is taking a little longer then expected haa.
But they guy at AutoZone told me to use motor oil..?
And it won't be over, even after it's done. LOL
it originally used motor oil, but the original type of honda manual transmission fluid is best, it superceded the original use of motor oil, don't use the new kind of manual fluid from them, or you can use regular syncromesh. both of these types of fluid have friction mofifiers that make the syncros work betterQuote:
Originally Posted by lucytripping
Hey guys so i finished my carb rebuild yesterday, and when i went to start her up i found that my stater was bad so today i replaced the starter and at first sge still wouldnt start but after priming her she started but only because i propped the choke open....
So my question is if the choke isnt opening what can cause this? Maybe i messed up somewhere rebuilding it but i wanna trouble shoot before i go back to ripping it apart?
Also iit was idling extremely high.
(Started at 2500rpms stayed there for a few seconds then began to climb)
Any help will be great(:
What in the world does this switch do? I don't feel any difference in the airflow with it off or on.
Attachment 6188Attachment 6187
Also, I replaced the dome light with a 12 LED chip, but it does not come on full brightness when I open the door. However, if I touch the trigger on the door jamb it gets brighter...do I just need a new spring so it makes full contact? Thanks for answer to either of these.
That switch changes the temp of the air coming through those vents. For instance if you have the heater on blowing at the face and feet, that switch will allow you to have cooler air blow on the face instead of the heated air while still warming the cab.
What is the wiper and turn signal control stalk called? I mean, the name most people on here call it. Combination switch?
Yes, Combination switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
combination switchQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
You probably want to do a rebuild or replace your door jamb switches.Quote:
Originally Posted by pajamas95
https://www.3geez.com/forum/how/75391...mb-switch.html
https://www.3geez.com/forum/appearanc...-switches.html
is there anyway to bypass the coolant to the carbuetor?"
ive searched but all i find is about blocking it for weber install,
i dont have weber just did stage 4 vac removal to stock carb my main concern is while the carb still function without coolant?
Blocking it off is the only thing I think you can do since it runs through the manifold. Not sure how that will effect the carburetor if at all. Maybe has something to do with the choke and warming it up? That's just a guess my stock carb hit the trash can years ago.
Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
The switch between the vents controls the air for the vents. In the up position, the upper vents will flow outside air. In the down position, the vents will flow air that is routed through the heater. Turn the heat up and the fan on. In the up position the vents should blow cool air. In the down position - warm air.
Deleted. Question already answered.
So can anyone help me with a b20 swap
Umm, what is a radius rod?
you have to use the webber block off plate. you could block off the hose coming from the carb base, and block off the other end on the coolant pipe, coolant would still be there, but just not flow through it. You can't just block the hoses to the manifold, as thats your coolant bypass before the thermostat opens, your temp sender is also in that coolant passageQuote:
Originally Posted by lucytripping
the two rods from your front cross member to your lower control arms, they set casterQuote:
Originally Posted by derolph
got an 89 accord lx carb automatic...
purchased recently without exhaust [cat was chopped out in a parking lot], found an exhaust/muffler at the scrap yard and hung it. going to have a cat installed soon. for now im running the car, fixing other misc body stuff, headlights etc. noticed the idle is inconsistent through gears - right around 1,000 in drive and then sinks when in park, will sometimes die if i dont give it gas. just trying to connect the dots here, mostly wondering what issues could be caused by not having the cat down there. never dealt with cars before but am getting some guidance from friends who have experience [though none with hondas], figured this was the place to go. thanks for any help.
The source of the issue is not likely related to the exhaust. Start by making sure your coolant is at the right level and there is no air in the coolant system. Then download the shop manual and check out the idle troubleshooting sections.Quote:
Originally Posted by d-ham
If you're still stumped, start a thread and list the troubleshooting you've already done.
The problem with the carbed cars is that the carb is kabbalistically complicated. It is covered with solenoids and dash pots and vacuum actuators. Then there are solenoids and actuators on the solenoids and actuators, and still more solenoids and actuators in the black box on the firewall controlling the solenoids and actuators on the carb. What isn't run by electricity is run by a million vacuum lines that spring leaks and cause more problems. At the age of these cars, there are a host of things that can go wrong. That is not to say that it's hopeless, only that you must spend some time with the manual (http://geminiwebhosting.ca/1989AccordServiceManual.pdf) learning about all the controls on the carb. There are tests and troubleshooting procedures for each one. Learn how everything works and test to make sure that each part is doing what it should. With patience and persistence, most members make these old carbs run great and pass smog without any trouble.
Edit: this assumes, of course, that the basics like routine maintenance and tune-ups, have already been done.
Hello, Thanks for this site, and all the community input!! I am restoring a 1986 honda accord hatchback lxi. I am new to this site and to hondas. Got this car and it is peppey and economical, but has lot of interior issues. Here are three delimmas I am facing right now. Door panels are shot and need new ones, they are grey, where can I find some new ones, or info on making my own. 2) aftermarket radio was stolen and thieves broke the black radio support box underneath the ac/heater controls. I found some at the junk yard, but they don't come out easy, or do they? suggestion 3) , all the interior top side trim panel and on the roof post were broken, so I found one in the JY and got all the trim, what a find!! so psyched, but the the tabs that go in the fasteners broke. What is the best way to fasten these now that some tabs are broken? Glue or velcro ?
You can glue the trim on, but it maybe tough to get it off in the future. They make plastic repair agents as well. There is a bunch of info in the how to thread on interior work including fixing door panels.Quote:
Originally Posted by ratufia
Ok thank you !!!
I have an 85 that I want to convert to a Weber 32/36 ... looking for best thread or link to instructions helpful tips etc....I have searched the Carb section but not realy found much specific to the 84/85 1.8L
I believe that there is a how to on that
I can tell you that piece manifolds has the specific adapter you need as well as the linkage adaptersQuote:
Originally Posted by JKP
Ok, dumb question. What's a Weber 32/36?
Weber is an aftermarket carburetor that you can replace your stock carb with. 32/36 is the size of the barrels, there are two of them and since they are different sizes its called progressive. There are also some letters after specifying the model and kind of choke for example DGEV is electric choke, DGAV is water. The Weber 32/36 DGEV fits hundreds of vehicles as long as you have the correct adapter plates to attach it to your intake manifold.
trying to remember how the lude generations are different in Japan, I know they don't follow the exact generations we do, guy on HT has a bunch of third generation lude B20 parts, engine stuff, but it's Japanese third generation, I'm trying to remember if it's the B20 that goes in the 3 g or not,
Hello, fellow 3geez community I did a search, and could not fit it. And so short on time, and coming to you for efficiency. It is simple, I assume, but need info for certainty. I need to raise the power passenger side window. How do I add direct power? Thank you.
Maybe try taking the panel off and help the window up while using switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by ratufia
doing a restore. Panels are off. window I all the way down. I know there is way to give direct power to motors. I have seen it done a junk yards to seat motors and windows. Thanks for answering.
I saw a nice set of 17" rims 4-lug universal. was wondering if they would fit my 88 honda accord lxi??? It is stock no lowering kit on it. And if so does anyone know the size tire i would need for no rubbing or damage to occur?
You will need to know more than the rim diameter to determine proper fitment. This link will help you determine tire size as well: https://www.3geez.com/forum/suspensio...els-tires.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by 88acclxi4dr
Quick question: how hard would it be to unseize a A201 engine.I was given a freebie with an engine that ran hot.
Pretty easy. Just pull it, take it to a machine shop and drop a couple thousand there. LOL
Seriously though. I'd start by making sure it is in fact seized. More likely it blew a head gasket, unless they really, really worked at burning it up.
Where can I get a relay for the flip-up lights.
Pm MeQuote:
Originally Posted by 89T
hello everyone . I need help in my accord 1983 . I have transferred from manual gear to automatic . and I need pictures to know how to connect the pipes on it . and I have another question . if any one have the maps of electrical power for it .thx
I'm not aware of any pipes that connect to the transmission, unless you are doing something custom.Quote:
Originally Posted by yanal
If you haven't already, read the How-To. https://www.3geez.com/forum/how/102-c...nsmission.html
Thx man.
he must mean the transmission cooler to the radiatorQuote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
Just picked up a 1983 Honda Accord Hatch with an EK1 engine. The PO installed a re-manufacturered carburetor then sold it because he couldn't get it to run properly, it is idling PIG rich, like standing fuel in the intake rich. I need to know WHICH screws I need to adjust, WHERE they are located on the carb, and HOW exactly to adjust them.
I have been searching for two days, and only found where people have said that the carb needed to be adjusted, but no information on HOW to do so, any such advice or assisstance would be greatly appreciated.
I have not worked on those carbs, but if it is that rich, it could be something like the float sticking, or the needle not seating causing it to dump too much fuel in. Here is a link to the USDM 1985 Accord manual, it should be the same or similar carb. http://thedempsters.us/usdm-accord-1985-full.pdfQuote:
Originally Posted by Saavedro88
I have to see that but a lot of rich issues come from thermo sensors/switches that control mixture solenoids , choke pull offs, fast idle pull offs, secondary power jet contols & accuators etc..these would still present problems despite the carb being replaced or rebuilt.
Coolant temp knowledge is important to these sensors no matter their form so low coolant and air pockets in the coolant system can caus issues as can a coolant radiator fan that runs constantly which can prevent the coolant fom reaching the engineered temp that these sensors respond to.
.
The coolant temp gauge on the dash doesn't operate, is that the same sensor that would feed info to the carburetor somehow?Quote:
Originally Posted by 2oodoor
