Check the resistance on your injector resistor. It should be 5-7 ohms. Find more info in the manual on p. 12-61.
Check the resistance on your injector resistor. It should be 5-7 ohms. Find more info in the manual on p. 12-61.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Yes sir. I don't think you have to drain all of it but I could be wrong. When you fill it back up use a synchromesh formula. You'll like it best
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Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
Havent gotten to the transmission yet ha this carb rebuild is taking a little longer then expected haa.
But they guy at AutoZone told me to use motor oil..?
And it won't be over, even after it's done. LOL
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
it originally used motor oil, but the original type of honda manual transmission fluid is best, it superceded the original use of motor oil, don't use the new kind of manual fluid from them, or you can use regular syncromesh. both of these types of fluid have friction mofifiers that make the syncros work better
Hey guys so i finished my carb rebuild yesterday, and when i went to start her up i found that my stater was bad so today i replaced the starter and at first sge still wouldnt start but after priming her she started but only because i propped the choke open....
So my question is if the choke isnt opening what can cause this? Maybe i messed up somewhere rebuilding it but i wanna trouble shoot before i go back to ripping it apart?
Also iit was idling extremely high.
(Started at 2500rpms stayed there for a few seconds then began to climb)
Any help will be great(:
What in the world does this switch do? I don't feel any difference in the airflow with it off or on.
Also, I replaced the dome light with a 12 LED chip, but it does not come on full brightness when I open the door. However, if I touch the trigger on the door jamb it gets brighter...do I just need a new spring so it makes full contact? Thanks for answer to either of these.
That switch changes the temp of the air coming through those vents. For instance if you have the heater on blowing at the face and feet, that switch will allow you to have cooler air blow on the face instead of the heated air while still warming the cab.
What is the wiper and turn signal control stalk called? I mean, the name most people on here call it. Combination switch?
You probably want to do a rebuild or replace your door jamb switches.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/how/75391...mb-switch.html
https://www.3geez.com/forum/appearanc...-switches.html
Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 05-07-2014 at 07:03 PM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
is there anyway to bypass the coolant to the carbuetor?"
ive searched but all i find is about blocking it for weber install,
i dont have weber just did stage 4 vac removal to stock carb my main concern is while the carb still function without coolant?
Blocking it off is the only thing I think you can do since it runs through the manifold. Not sure how that will effect the carburetor if at all. Maybe has something to do with the choke and warming it up? That's just a guess my stock carb hit the trash can years ago.
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Steve
Latest Poll and thread for you B20A guys:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/classic-a...ts-2013-a.html
My Build
https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...x-new-car.html
The switch between the vents controls the air for the vents. In the up position, the upper vents will flow outside air. In the down position, the vents will flow air that is routed through the heater. Turn the heat up and the fan on. In the up position the vents should blow cool air. In the down position - warm air.
Deleted. Question already answered.
So can anyone help me with a b20 swap
Umm, what is a radius rod?
1988 Accord LX-i 2-door coupe, 205K miles, updated 1/4/18.
you have to use the webber block off plate. you could block off the hose coming from the carb base, and block off the other end on the coolant pipe, coolant would still be there, but just not flow through it. You can't just block the hoses to the manifold, as thats your coolant bypass before the thermostat opens, your temp sender is also in that coolant passage
got an 89 accord lx carb automatic...
purchased recently without exhaust [cat was chopped out in a parking lot], found an exhaust/muffler at the scrap yard and hung it. going to have a cat installed soon. for now im running the car, fixing other misc body stuff, headlights etc. noticed the idle is inconsistent through gears - right around 1,000 in drive and then sinks when in park, will sometimes die if i dont give it gas. just trying to connect the dots here, mostly wondering what issues could be caused by not having the cat down there. never dealt with cars before but am getting some guidance from friends who have experience [though none with hondas], figured this was the place to go. thanks for any help.
The source of the issue is not likely related to the exhaust. Start by making sure your coolant is at the right level and there is no air in the coolant system. Then download the shop manual and check out the idle troubleshooting sections.
If you're still stumped, start a thread and list the troubleshooting you've already done.
The problem with the carbed cars is that the carb is kabbalistically complicated. It is covered with solenoids and dash pots and vacuum actuators. Then there are solenoids and actuators on the solenoids and actuators, and still more solenoids and actuators in the black box on the firewall controlling the solenoids and actuators on the carb. What isn't run by electricity is run by a million vacuum lines that spring leaks and cause more problems. At the age of these cars, there are a host of things that can go wrong. That is not to say that it's hopeless, only that you must spend some time with the manual (http://geminiwebhosting.ca/1989AccordServiceManual.pdf) learning about all the controls on the carb. There are tests and troubleshooting procedures for each one. Learn how everything works and test to make sure that each part is doing what it should. With patience and persistence, most members make these old carbs run great and pass smog without any trouble.
Edit: this assumes, of course, that the basics like routine maintenance and tune-ups, have already been done.
Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 08-20-2014 at 06:42 PM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Hello, Thanks for this site, and all the community input!! I am restoring a 1986 honda accord hatchback lxi. I am new to this site and to hondas. Got this car and it is peppey and economical, but has lot of interior issues. Here are three delimmas I am facing right now. Door panels are shot and need new ones, they are grey, where can I find some new ones, or info on making my own. 2) aftermarket radio was stolen and thieves broke the black radio support box underneath the ac/heater controls. I found some at the junk yard, but they don't come out easy, or do they? suggestion 3) , all the interior top side trim panel and on the roof post were broken, so I found one in the JY and got all the trim, what a find!! so psyched, but the the tabs that go in the fasteners broke. What is the best way to fasten these now that some tabs are broken? Glue or velcro ?
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