Have a quick question? Ask it here!

Yo yo, first I have to thank the people on this site, and for Fixedit for teaching me how my 87 really works, and how to change and fix various things under the hood. However, I'm having trouble finding how to fix my cruise control. The light doesn't come on, and it doesn't engage at all. I don't know where to start, and I don't want to mess stuff up without a few photos of the process. I'm sorry if photos are asking too much, but I just want to be SURE I'm doing everything right. Thankyou.

Lets start with the basics. Check the fuses and also check your brake lights, if they are stuck on then your cruise wont engage.

Do you at least get the cruise light by the button?

Download the manual (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vtyhl48z5...udl0xk_Oa?dl=0) and proceed through the troubleshooting flow chart on p. 25-72.

No, I don't even get the light on the cruise control button :/

Will the transmission from a 94 5 speed 4 cylder fit in a 87 4 cylder??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by beutler

Will the transmission from a 94 5 speed 4 cylder fit in a 87 4 cylder??

---

Nope

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by beutler

Will the transmission from a 94 5 speed 4 cylder fit in a 87 4 cylder??

---

NO.

3G engines are A-type, 4G engines are F-type

What's the difference in these coils

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shane86

What's the difference in these coils

---

One on the right is a more modern E core style. The one on the left is the old school Oil filled type.

Alot to study online about ignition coils.

Main thing is you need to match the coil resistance to the ignition you are running. To far out of spec will load the moduals wrong and it wont last to long with out burning out.

Watch the stock coils as well I bought 2 brand new that the specs are totally off from what they should be. And i mean alot.

I dont know the difference but it seems like everyone on here has the older type oil filled, so thats what i got and it has served me well thus far.

yeah most people run the oil based one in these cars. best bet is to just convert to coil on plug but that is around 500 dollars worth of parts.

Going to start a b series swap in my 81 accord hatch...looking for detailed pics or advice from someone that has finished [email protected] thanks

where should i look to find out what all i need to delete i have an 89 accord lxi and want to delete everything it does not need anymore emmisions wise and other ? to make it faster !!!!

I just bought a 89 SEI coupe for a cheap car until I rebuild my truck. Kinda starting to fall in love with it though. I really need to replace the taillights and trunk garnish. Does anyone have a line on mostly the garnish?

You're looking for that plastic panel between the taillights? LOL. Yeah, we're all looking for that. They don't exist in a non-broken form, unfortunately. I'd say pull it off and try to epoxy it back together. I did that when I backed over my truck grill :nuts:. It's still holding years later. :thumbup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

You're looking for that plastic panel between the taillights? LOL. Yeah, we're all looking for that. They don't exist in a non-broken form, unfortunately. I'd say pull it off and try to epoxy it back together. I did that when I backed over my truck grill :nuts:. It's still holding years later. :thumbup:

---

i will try to upload a pic Attachment 7918but i have that garnish unbroken on my parts car lol i guess the south climate saved all the little trim pieces from being destoryed

is that the piece so sought after?

Yup. That's the one. I'd be surprised if you have one that's truly not broken. Guard it carefully if you do.

Hey guys I ve been having a real hard time finding the best way to bring my alignment in the front of my LXI to 0degrees, I'm trying to run almost no negative camber up front. Any help would be much appreciated. I have read 2nd gen prelude arms do the job but I'm assuming the only way to get them is from a junkyard.

My question is. Where can i find lowering springs for my 1981 Honda Prelude? Ive looked everywhere. Attachment 8080

.

Maybe try some seafoam in the gas tank with a full tank of fresh gas. Drive it until tank is 1/4 full and see if the problem persists. Just a thought.

.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stealth

Hey guys, I have a question about my '89 Lx-i. I believe that my oxygen sensors are starting to go bad and I just wanted to confirm the symptoms with you guys before I buy two new oxygen sensors. The car starts right up and idles cold at around 1600 rpm with no problems when the ecu is in open loop. After I start driving for about a minute, I can feel the car begin to hesitate as I give it gas. As I give it gas it won't respond until I input more throttle and then it will spring to life again. I believe this is because the ecu is entering closed loop and starting to take readings from the faulty oxygen sensors. The hesitation only occurs for the first couple minutes of driving and then goes away completely even before the car fully warms up. However; as the rpm drops down to around 1k rpm as the car warms up, it idles very rough and dips down to around 200 rpm at times. After driving for about 20 minutes fully warming up the car, the engine idles very smoothly and drives normally without any problems.

I have replaced the spark plugs, ignition coil, and various coolant sensors which leads me to believe that this problem has to stem from the oxygen sensors starting to go out. I currently have no ecu light/codes and I have read online that the ecu won't throw a code for a bad oxygen sensor if they are beginning to fail and has not gone out completely. Can anyone confirm that it is indeed the oxygen sensors? Or if anyone could point me in the right direction if it is not those sensors causing these symptoms? My gas mileage hasn't suffered either because the symptoms disappear after the car is fully warmed up.

---

I bought 2 o2 sensors and they are like 40 bucks a piece. make sure you install them correctly because its easy to mix the primary with the secondary.

Any luck with the seafoam ? I just wanted to follow up to see how things are progressing.

.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stealth

Hey thanks for asking! I tried seafoam but it didn't change anything :( The engine itself runs strong and gets great mpg which is why I'm thinking it might be something other than the oxygen sensors. I don't have symptoms other people have such as terrible mpg and crazy jerking when accelerating when the oxygen sensors go out.

I was reading the other day that a bad throttle position sensor can give the same symptoms I'm having. The hesitation is very slight and only occurs for less than a minute and the bad idle goes away completely when the car is warmed up. I really hope it isn't the oxygen sensors because I heard they can be difficult to remove after 30 years of rust. I'm going to soak them in penetrating oil for like a week and attempt to break them free. If they don't break free then I'll replace the tps and hope that fixes it lol.

Edit: I noticed that the hesitation begins just as the temperature needle starts to move from being completely cold. When I went for a drive the other day it was warm out and the needle quickly began to move after I started the car due to it being hot out. The hesitation then started right away. Could this issue be related to the coolant temperature? Maybe I need to replace some coolant sensor again. Or it could just be the ecu entering closed loop because it thinks the sensors are hot enough.

---

IACV and FIAV are the things i cleaned/replaced to solve this problem. it happened more during warmer days. i would be driving normal when i press clutch in and go into nuetral the car would drop rpm down to 150 then raise back up to 750 then back down until it settled at 650-700rpm i cleaned my IACV and FIAV out i no longer have that issue. though i still do have hesitation as ive always had. i know its not TPS b.c i replaced it and set it exactly to to proper voltage needed when fully closed and fully opened. hell i even replaced injectors too due to one of them being clogged. and fuel filter still i have the hesitation. i run non ethanol mid grade i still have hesitation. ill solve it one day but to get back on topic take a look at the IACV and FIAV take the bottom off of the IACV and make sure there isnt dirt and grim coating the walls causing problems. i found that to be the biggest issue with my idle drop.

.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stealth

I replaced the IACV with an oem part a while ago and nothing changed. I then thought it could be the FIAV since the problems only occured when the engine was cold but that oem part has been discontinued for a while now. I took it out to clean it but it was already very clean when I sprayed it down so nothing changed. The idle problem I'm having isn't a dropping/surging idle that a bad IACV would cause. It's more of just a very rough idle that shakes everything.

It's good to hear that it's probably not the TPS which would make sense because the hesitation would occur all the time and not just when the engine is cold. This all leads me back to bad oxygen sensors which I think is the problem.

---

Hell is replace em honestly at this point what 60 bucks and your headachr free unless theres another prob but atleast you have new sensors lol

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stealth

Hey thanks for asking! I tried seafoam but it didn't change anything :( The engine itself runs strong and gets great mpg which is why I'm thinking it might be something other than the oxygen sensors. I don't have symptoms other people have such as terrible mpg and crazy jerking when accelerating when the oxygen sensors go out.

I was reading the other day that a bad throttle position sensor can give the same symptoms I'm having. The hesitation is very slight and only occurs for less than a minute and the bad idle goes away completely when the car is warmed up. I really hope it isn't the oxygen sensors because I heard they can be difficult to remove after 30 years of rust. I'm going to soak them in penetrating oil for like a week and attempt to break them free. If they don't break free then I'll replace the tps and hope that fixes it lol.

Edit: I noticed that the hesitation begins just as the temperature needle starts to move from being completely cold. When I went for a drive the other day it was warm out and the needle quickly began to move after I started the car due to it being hot out. The hesitation then started right away. Could this issue be related to the coolant temperature? Maybe I need to replace some coolant sensor again. Or it could just be the ecu entering closed loop because it thinks the sensors are hot enough.

---

I would replace thermostat , and see if the problem persists.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I would replace thermostat , and see if problem persists.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stealth

It hasn't even been a year since I last replaced the thermostat lol. I've had to replace it like 3 times over the past years because it was causing the engine to overheat.

I'm going to start soaking the oxygen sensors with penetrating oil for the next week or so. Hopefully I can break them free in one piece.

---

This might sound crazy but whats your pcv look like?

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JJ'sAccord

This might sound crazy but whats your pcv look like?

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

---

Also what about emissions system? Wouldnt hurt to check that out as well

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stealth

I replaced the IACV with an oem part a while ago and nothing changed. I then thought it could be the FIAV since the problems only occured when the engine was cold but that oem part has been discontinued for a while now. I took it out to clean it but it was already very clean when I sprayed it down so nothing changed. The idle problem I'm having isn't a dropping/surging idle that a bad IACV would cause. It's more of just a very rough idle that shakes everything.

It's good to hear that it's probably not the TPS which would make sense because the hesitation would occur all the time and not just when the engine is cold. This all leads me back to bad oxygen sensors which I think is the problem.

---

Bleed the coolant and then bleed the air out of the IACV. I just loosen the hose fitting and let air/coolant run out while the engine is running. youll hear/see the air escaping from the IACV. I forget which side is the out on that one i think the side going to the drivers side.

Hi I'm so questions. When my mustang is off it shifts fine but when I turn it on it won't shift at all. To drive it I have to start it in first and go. Shifting is really hard after that from 1st to second and back and anything above just grinds. The clutch doesn't feel like it has a bite point what is wrong what do I need to do?

Hi James new guy here. 1988honda cord lxi&1991 Honda Vic std lol never gets old manual 4speed. Nearing200k on each. Each has its own of course. Question being what's the best way to further these posts and post of questions and comments for both Hondas without upsetting anyone. Thanks and keep riding

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shiki

Hi I'm so questions. When my mustang is off it shifts fine but when I turn it on it won't shift at all. To drive it I have to start it in first and go. Shifting is really hard after that from 1st to second and back and anything above just grinds. The clutch doesn't feel like it has a bite point what is wrong what do I need to do?

---

Well first, find a Mustang forum to answer your questions. Second, adjust your clutch.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by hondasRus

Hi James new guy here. 1988honda cord lxi&1991 Honda Vic std lol never gets old manual 4speed. Nearing200k on each. Each has its own of course. Question being what's the best way to further these posts and post of questions and comments for both Hondas without upsetting anyone. Thanks and keep riding

---

Say what?

re: have a quick question ask it here!
i have a 1989 carbureted accord dx which idles very low and then stalls. My question is very simple, which way would i turn the throttle stop screw if
i wanted to increase engine speed--- clockwise or counterclockwise???

I just bought a 1994 Honda civic dx sedan 5 speed and when I let off the gas it dies no matter what speed I'm going and to start it I have to push in the gas. What could cause this? I haven't had this problem before and I did notice oil in the spark plug area and a spark plug wire broken but it also overheats super quickly

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cat

re: have a quick question ask it here!
i have a 1989 carbureted accord dx which idles very low and then stalls. My question is very simple, which way would i turn the throttle stop screw if
i wanted to increase engine speed--- clockwise or counterclockwise???

---

I believe its counter-clockwise to increase idle. If manual trans should be between 750-850 rpm . If Auto trans with AC should be 700-800 rpm in P or N with AC on.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by magmarules1

I just bought a 1994 Honda civic dx sedan 5 speed and when I let off the gas it dies no matter what speed I'm going and to start it I have to push in the gas. What could cause this? I haven't had this problem before and I did notice oil in the spark plug area and a spark plug wire broken but it also overheats super quickly

---

This forum is dedicated to 3rd gens you have a 5th gen there. Anyhow try to adjust the throttle cable. There is a forum dedicated to 5th gen civics here : (5th Generation Honda Civic (1992-1995) | ClubCivic.com - Your Online Civic Community)

netplus,
thank you for your response to my "Quick question" re: throttle stop screw ---- i thought it was counterclock to increase the rpm.
I'm having trouble maintaining an idle on my 1989 accord dx with carb. Seemed like turning it counterclock did get the idle up enough
to keep it running. It's better, but still stalls occacionally when i take my foot off the gas at stop signs.Probably vacuum leak related,
that's why i want to get rid of all the vacuum lines and see how that works. Any information on vacuum deletion you could direct me
to would be appreciated-----------thanks again

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cat

netplus,
thank you for your response to my "Quick question" re: throttle stop screw ---- i thought it was counterclock to increase the rpm.
I'm having trouble maintaining an idle on my 1989 accord dx with carb. Seemed like turning it counterclock did get the idle up enough
to keep it running. It's better, but still stalls occacionally when i take my foot off the gas at stop signs.Probably vacuum leak related,
that's why i want to get rid of all the vacuum lines and see how that works. Any information on vacuum deletion you could direct me
to would be appreciated-----------thanks again

---

Personally I am not a fan of deleting anything ( I am a stock guy). That being said , I would invest in a vacuum gauge to check for vacuum leaks. Here is the cheapest I found on ebay that measures inches of mercury (in. Hg): Automotive Caburetor Fuel Pump Vacuum Valve Diagnose Tester Gauge Tool kit . Also some auto-part stores have tools you can rent. I have the service manual for 1988 and electrical troubleshooting manual for 1987-1988 should be the same for 1989. I also have access to an automotive program on the computer. So let me know if you need torque specs or any other specs.

Anyone got an oil cooler how to?

I just picked up an 87 prelude 2.0si, dirt cheap, runs and drives but needs a wheel bearing, I can't find a front hub assembly anywhere. Can someone please help me?

You need the wheel bearing or the hub?

I'd like to do both, the hub is not bad but I might as well replace it while it's off

You can find the bearings without much difficulty. Finding the hubs is going to be impossible.

Well thanks for nothing I guess

i guess E-Bay should help you out.

Thank Honda for consistently stiffing the classic community.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aSoftVtec

I'd like to do both, the hub is not bad but I might as well replace it while it's off

---

Pretty common on these type cars to do just the bearing.

I know most of the new vehicles like pickups its comes together but they dont last long anyway.

.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stealth

Hey guys. I've changed out all of my exterior bulbs with LEDs, but I'm having a problem with the bulb out/brake light warning on the bottom right of the cluster lighting up. I know this is due to the lower power draw of the LEDs as compared to the original bulbs. I read on various 4th gen accord sites and on this thread: https://www.3geez.com/forum/3geez-ac...-question.html that I need to ground the white/green wire on the driver's side tail light. I cut that wire and grounded both ends of the wire. I can now replace the passenger tail light, the passenger side tail light on the trunk, and the high-mount brake light with LEDs and the indicator won't light up. However, the driver side light (both on the trunk and body) will still trigger the indicator if I replace them with LEDs.

I thought that the driver side sensor was responsible for the driver side lights and that the passenger side sensor was responsible for the passenger side lights and high-mount tail light. Are my sensors switched? Do I need to ground a wire on the passenger side sensor?

---

I've had this problem and the problem relies in that higher brake light

.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stealth

Why is the problem with the high-mount brake light? I can take out the bulb and the indicator won't come on. It's anytime that I remove the driver's side bulbs that my indicator bulb triggers. The wire that I grounded will let me remove all passenger lights and the high-mount bulb with no errors on the dash.

---

Possibly bad wiring then did you install the bulbs without touching them with your bare hands

.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Stealth

Yea I wore gloves when I put the bulbs in. They work great. Basically every bulb would trigger the dash light so I grounded that one white/green wire. Now everything doesn't trigger the the dash light except for the driver's side LEDs. There was no dash light before with the old bulbs so I know the wiring is fine. Something is still sending a signal to trigger the dash light which is why I'm thinking I need to ground something else. Unless maybe I wasn't supposed to ground both sides of the white/green wire?

---

Here's a picture of a tail light harness. Try replacing theses. My old ones the connectors were so corroded it kept popping the bulbs or sending the brake light to this cluster

.

Hi friends! I have a quick question about my 88 LXi 5-speed. It's fuel injected and needs a new tranny (E2Q5). My only question is, would a tranny from an 88 carbureted car be cross compatible? I've been having trouble finding info on this online. I know that the gearing is different, but that doesn't really bother me if it means it'll bolt in without issue.

Thanks guys!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by asundine

Hi friends! I have a quick question about my 88 LXi 5-speed. It's fuel injected and needs a new tranny (E2Q5). My only question is, would a tranny from an 88 carbureted car be cross compatible? I've been having trouble finding info on this online. I know that the gearing is different, but that doesn't really bother me if it means it'll bolt in without issue.

Thanks guys!

---

I've heard all 86-89 honda accord transmissions will swap carb gears are longer

i have a 1989 sei and i have a carb transmission in mine the taller gears r better for the highway

i took the fuel inj trans out because i wanted taller gears

Okay I've googled and looked through the threads. Check engine light Is on code 12 egr and idle would flucuate, hesitate to go and it would bog down even with unplugging the egr. I cleaned the egr valve and the light is still on I know my catalytic converter is clogged pretty bad too but disadvantages and advantages of egr delete? Will it fix my idle and bogging down issue?

Hi, I have an 88 Accord lxi, it ran poorly when I got it, had a blown head gasket between cylinder 3 and 4. I replaced the gasket and put it back together, now it cranks but won't fire.... I'm not sure what to troubleshoot.... Any ideas?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by there4lcr8n

Hi, I have an 88 Accord lxi, it ran poorly when I got it, had a blown head gasket between cylinder 3 and 4. I replaced the gasket and put it back together, now it cranks but won't fire.... I'm not sure what to troubleshoot.... Any ideas?

---

Make sure your cam and crank timing are lined up if they are pull the distributor cap off and see that the pendulum is sitting at the number one firing order if not flip your distributor key 180

Looking for headlight retractor relays on my '89 Accord LX, looked where I've been told to look for them but haven't found them at all. Any help would be appreciated.

PS. The right headlight goes up when I use the actual headlight switch in the left, but does not retract when turned back off. Also the dashboard switch that makes them pop up without turning on the lights doesn't make either pop up or go down. Just adding this info in case it might help diagnose why they're not working properly in case it isn't the retractor relays when/if I can find those in the first place.

Those are going to be a junkyard item.

I just bought a 87 accord and the passenger window is missing and my pull a part dosnt have any 80s accord is there any other years that would fit also what are some modifications you can do with the A20

hi, i lost my old log in. i originally had a 88 honda accord lx, among 2 other early models. is there a site similar to this catering to the 2004 accord? i'm trying to find a free workshop manual. my car had the driver side busted yp from a drunk driver. 😔

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Bradleycole

I just bought a 87 accord and the passenger window is missing and my pull a part dosnt have any 80s accord is there any other years that would fit also what are some modifications you can do with the A20

---

86-89 accord? You can do all kinds of modifications to the A20 depends on how much money you want to spend

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by oliveoil

hi, i lost my old log in. i originally had a 88 honda accord lx, among 2 other early models. is there a site similar to this catering to the 2004 accord? i'm trying to find a free workshop manual. my car had the driver side busted yp from a drunk driver. 😔

---

You may want to try driveaccord.net
I think it deals with CB and newer Accords

What's good I have a 1987 Honda Accord LX-I. None carb. Manual transmission. I'm really interested in finding out what motor swaps can fit directly in it. I am also thinking about doing a all wheel drive conversion? Any thoughts feel free to put them down

How can I check my transmission fluid on an 89 lxi fuel injected Manuel transmission? All of a sudden I felt my stick shifter kind of sink in a little as I accelerated while shifting. Then the shifter felt really hard to shift and the clutch was loose like it no longer worked.

I was able to force the shifter into 1st and 2nd gears just to make it home somehow.

Open the fill bolt. If oil does not run out, then you need more.

have a tempremental fault , she starts first time every morning but then idle fluctuates a bit , and some time fails to start again. leave it for about ahour then restarts again , changed main relay cleaned plugs and idle valve but still no joy , thinking maybe temp sensor but unable to find a replacement one for a20a4 engine ,
appreciate some help

Could be your fast idle valve.

I need a brown glove box. I cannot find one so I will have to have someone who has a parts car sell me one.

I would like to be able to run my AC with my weber without foot idling it. Has anyone figured this out? Also, with the weber and the vac line delete what is the best solution for vacuum advance distributor. My cruise isn't working (fuse is good) I cannot comment as to whether it worked prior to the swap to the weber or not. No one is responding to my posts???

Would anyone be interested in my very good condition carburetor and vacuum accessories that I deleted when doing my swap to the weber?

The carburetor has a tag from National Carburetor saying that it was rebuilt and flow tested and such in late 2016. The car ran fine but would not idle. You could get anywhere you needed to go as long as you foot idled it. I never trouble shot this issue. It could be a tuning issue or a vacuum issue.

Oh and if anyone cares I have sourced a glovebox and was able to get my cruise control working. The switch had to be rebuilt and everything is right with the world. rHonda Gold is coming along nicely.

Only my side front turn signals are working, the front facing, rear facing are not but he front sides are. Also the dash indicators are dimmer. I have replaced the bubs to LED and replaced the flasher to an LED to remove the hyper-flashing. that was working well for over a year but now I am missing just the rear and front, but not the sides. ? any help diagnosing is much appreciated.

I’m looking to do a motor swap in my 88 Honda Accord lxi. I found a k2.4 swap many are saying it will not work

Anything will work with $

What’s up I’m new to 3geez but have already found a lot of info on here. Just got a 88 accord lxi not long ago and I’m wanting to know what engine swaps I can do easily without doing a bunch of stuff. Found a b18b1 engine online for $150 was thinking about getting it

My turn signals just randomly stopped working. I've done some searching. My grey box is still connected and all my fuses are fine. Anyone possibly have an idea? Going to get frost bite doing hand signals in Colorado.

Do your hazards work?

man thank you so much i was looking every where trying to figure out how to post. well obviously im new here so whats up guys. i have a 86 prelude 2.0 si fuel injected and im completely redoing it. im starting with the suspension i have just ordered my coilovers, but i want to upgrade the control arms (upper and lower) what are my options, will the 90-97 parts work like the coil overs? as yall know im sure finding parts for the 86 prelude is a B*%$#. i appreciate yalls time and glad to be part of 3geez

Hi all, newbie here. I have an 88 Honda Accord LX (original gold paint, we call her 'Goldie'). Been a good little car, but some months back I blew out the 5th gear while on the highway, it just popped out and I resumed into 4th gear for highway driving since then, and have had a mild to moderate grinding sound while shifting in the lower gears more particularly, as it fades out while in higher gears. I just never bothered to even try to use 5th gear again, and have had the transmission fluid changed a few times since then to clean out any possible metal shreds or grime, - my mechanic put in honda MTF each time. A rebuilt transmission plus labor looks like $1500 - 2,000, and while I love my Honda, I think i'll just do the best to nurse her along til she retires herself, and plan to get a newer model FIT, love the silver color and black trim ones (maybe a 2008 -2010 model, gotta shop around).

Anyways,...appreciate any help, suggestions and comments on the transmission. Im still just under 200,000 mi. - not sure if getting another transmission fluid change sooner will help the transmission flow smoother or not, or just change it at recommended interval. Otherwise, shes running ok (not the most optimal however). Last report by mechanic was some oil dripping out of timing cover, carb is worn out somewhat, power steering rack is torn open. She does have slow oil leaks, and the engine was a bit too dirty/oily for them to do a free steam clean (so they said). So, shes has put in her time so to speak. I've been putting 10w30 in her, sometimes synthetic blend or reg. oil. Have added Hyperlube and Lucas oil stabilizer with oil occasionally, if that helps any. Thanks for any help :D

Attachment 9596

u can swap out 5th gear without taking out the transmission u can remove the black case on the end of the trans and change 5th gear

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rushell

u can swap out 5th gear without taking out the transmission u can remove the black case on the end of the trans and change 5th gear

---

Thanks for the tip, not sure my mechanic knows about that, as they just referred me over to get a whole new transmission, so got a quote for near 2 grand for putting a rebuilt in. Interesting detail, - if i was more into working on car myself, i'd get into that, but prefer someone who knows what they're doing to keep it in best running condition most inexpensively.

Yes your 5th gear can be serviced without removing the tranny but the real problem is that you ran low on tranny fluid for it to go out. It's probably due to the shifter rod seal located on the back bottom of the tranny. That seal can only be replaced by taking the whole transmission apart.

I'd just check the tranny level every so often.

Have you driven a Fit yet?

I have a 1988 efi lxi
I recently failed smog and the guy says it needs a tuneup. there is no check engine light but It was running rough and recently started to rattle plus I have haven't done one in 8 years so I figured it was time. I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and coil along with an oil/filter change.
Since then it definitely runs much better but I still have the rattle and the misfire therefor it still wont pass smog. I asked a few mechanics and they say "if it rattles then your timing is advanced" but when I move the distributor there is no change. Well then they said that means your timing belt is off one tooth so I took off my covers and it was off so I reset the timing and now it is lined up perfect. Now it rattles even more and the misfire is still there. They say now that I need a new cam and I don't believe that is the case. Can anyone send me in the right direction?

Buy a timing light.

-buy/rent a timing light
-if you have never changed the fuel filters, change them
-listen to the injectors to make sure they are working with a stethoscope or screwdriver
-check for vacuumed leaks on all vac lines and don't forget to pinch the brake booster one as a test
-make sure there is no air in the coolant or if it's low
-is your air filter ok

-does the car rev or struggle
- is this an idle problem or does it drive crappy with no power

wait.. what state do you live in that still requires smog on a 30+ year old car?

Nevada requires cars since 1967 to be smogged i believe. Thats crazy