Have a quick question? Ask it here!

[JJ'sAccord]

Hey thanks for asking! I tried seafoam but it didn't change anything The engine itself runs strong and gets great mpg which is why I'm thinking it might be something other than the oxygen sensors. I don't have symptoms other people have such as terrible mpg and crazy jerking when accelerating when the oxygen sensors go out.

I was reading the other day that a bad throttle position sensor can give the same symptoms I'm having. The hesitation is very slight and only occurs for less than a minute and the bad idle goes away completely when the car is warmed up. I really hope it isn't the oxygen sensors because I heard they can be difficult to remove after 30 years of rust. I'm going to soak them in penetrating oil for like a week and attempt to break them free. If they don't break free then I'll replace the tps and hope that fixes it lol.

Edit: I noticed that the hesitation begins just as the temperature needle starts to move from being completely cold. When I went for a drive the other day it was warm out and the needle quickly began to move after I started the car due to it being hot out. The hesitation then started right away. Could this issue be related to the coolant temperature? Maybe I need to replace some coolant sensor again. Or it could just be the ecu entering closed loop because it thinks the sensors are hot enough.

IACV and FIAV are the things i cleaned/replaced to solve this problem. it happened more during warmer days. i would be driving normal when i press clutch in and go into nuetral the car would drop rpm down to 150 then raise back up to 750 then back down until it settled at 650-700rpm i cleaned my IACV and FIAV out i no longer have that issue. though i still do have hesitation as ive always had. i know its not TPS b.c i replaced it and set it exactly to to proper voltage needed when fully closed and fully opened. hell i even replaced injectors too due to one of them being clogged. and fuel filter still i have the hesitation. i run non ethanol mid grade i still have hesitation. ill solve it one day but to get back on topic take a look at the IACV and FIAV take the bottom off of the IACV and make sure there isnt dirt and grim coating the walls causing problems. i found that to be the biggest issue with my idle drop.

[Stealth]

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[JJ'sAccord]

I replaced the IACV with an oem part a while ago and nothing changed. I then thought it could be the FIAV since the problems only occured when the engine was cold but that oem part has been discontinued for a while now. I took it out to clean it but it was already very clean when I sprayed it down so nothing changed. The idle problem I'm having isn't a dropping/surging idle that a bad IACV would cause. It's more of just a very rough idle that shakes everything.

It's good to hear that it's probably not the TPS which would make sense because the hesitation would occur all the time and not just when the engine is cold. This all leads me back to bad oxygen sensors which I think is the problem.

Hell is replace em honestly at this point what 60 bucks and your headachr free unless theres another prob but atleast you have new sensors lol

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[netplus]

Hey thanks for asking! I tried seafoam but it didn't change anything The engine itself runs strong and gets great mpg which is why I'm thinking it might be something other than the oxygen sensors. I don't have symptoms other people have such as terrible mpg and crazy jerking when accelerating when the oxygen sensors go out.

I was reading the other day that a bad throttle position sensor can give the same symptoms I'm having. The hesitation is very slight and only occurs for less than a minute and the bad idle goes away completely when the car is warmed up. I really hope it isn't the oxygen sensors because I heard they can be difficult to remove after 30 years of rust. I'm going to soak them in penetrating oil for like a week and attempt to break them free. If they don't break free then I'll replace the tps and hope that fixes it lol.

Edit: I noticed that the hesitation begins just as the temperature needle starts to move from being completely cold. When I went for a drive the other day it was warm out and the needle quickly began to move after I started the car due to it being hot out. The hesitation then started right away. Could this issue be related to the coolant temperature? Maybe I need to replace some coolant sensor again. Or it could just be the ecu entering closed loop because it thinks the sensors are hot enough.

I would replace thermostat , and see if the problem persists.

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[netplus]

I would replace thermostat , and see if problem persists.

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[Stealth]

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[JJ'sAccord]

It hasn't even been a year since I last replaced the thermostat lol. I've had to replace it like 3 times over the past years because it was causing the engine to overheat.

I'm going to start soaking the oxygen sensors with penetrating oil for the next week or so. Hopefully I can break them free in one piece.

This might sound crazy but whats your pcv look like?

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[JJ'sAccord]

This might sound crazy but whats your pcv look like?

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Also what about emissions system? Wouldnt hurt to check that out as well

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[Stealth]

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[Oldblueaccord]

I replaced the IACV with an oem part a while ago and nothing changed. I then thought it could be the FIAV since the problems only occured when the engine was cold but that oem part has been discontinued for a while now. I took it out to clean it but it was already very clean when I sprayed it down so nothing changed. The idle problem I'm having isn't a dropping/surging idle that a bad IACV would cause. It's more of just a very rough idle that shakes everything.

It's good to hear that it's probably not the TPS which would make sense because the hesitation would occur all the time and not just when the engine is cold. This all leads me back to bad oxygen sensors which I think is the problem.

Bleed the coolant and then bleed the air out of the IACV. I just loosen the hose fitting and let air/coolant run out while the engine is running. youll hear/see the air escaping from the IACV. I forget which side is the out on that one i think the side going to the drivers side.

[Shiki]

Hi I'm so questions. When my mustang is off it shifts fine but when I turn it on it won't shift at all. To drive it I have to start it in first and go. Shifting is really hard after that from 1st to second and back and anything above just grinds. The clutch doesn't feel like it has a bite point what is wrong what do I need to do?

[hondasRus]

Hi James new guy here. 1988honda cord lxi&1991 Honda Vic std lol never gets old manual 4speed. Nearing200k on each. Each has its own of course. Question being what's the best way to further these posts and post of questions and comments for both Hondas without upsetting anyone. Thanks and keep riding

[Dr_Snooz]

Hi I'm so questions. When my mustang is off it shifts fine but when I turn it on it won't shift at all. To drive it I have to start it in first and go. Shifting is really hard after that from 1st to second and back and anything above just grinds. The clutch doesn't feel like it has a bite point what is wrong what do I need to do?

Well first, find a Mustang forum to answer your questions. Second, adjust your clutch.

[Dr_Snooz]

Hi James new guy here. 1988honda cord lxi&1991 Honda Vic std lol never gets old manual 4speed. Nearing200k on each. Each has its own of course. Question being what's the best way to further these posts and post of questions and comments for both Hondas without upsetting anyone. Thanks and keep riding

Say what?

[cat]

re: have a quick question ask it here!
i have a 1989 carbureted accord dx which idles very low and then stalls. My question is very simple, which way would i turn the throttle stop screw if
i wanted to increase engine speed--- clockwise or counterclockwise???

[magmarules1]

I just bought a 1994 Honda civic dx sedan 5 speed and when I let off the gas it dies no matter what speed I'm going and to start it I have to push in the gas. What could cause this? I haven't had this problem before and I did notice oil in the spark plug area and a spark plug wire broken but it also overheats super quickly

[netplus]

re: have a quick question ask it here!
i have a 1989 carbureted accord dx which idles very low and then stalls. My question is very simple, which way would i turn the throttle stop screw if
i wanted to increase engine speed--- clockwise or counterclockwise???

I believe its counter-clockwise to increase idle. If manual trans should be between 750-850 rpm . If Auto trans with AC should be 700-800 rpm in P or N with AC on.

[netplus]

I just bought a 1994 Honda civic dx sedan 5 speed and when I let off the gas it dies no matter what speed I'm going and to start it I have to push in the gas. What could cause this? I haven't had this problem before and I did notice oil in the spark plug area and a spark plug wire broken but it also overheats super quickly

This forum is dedicated to 3rd gens you have a 5th gen there. Anyhow try to adjust the throttle cable. There is a forum dedicated to 5th gen civics here : (5th Generation Honda Civic (1992-1995) | ClubCivic.com - Your Online Civic Community)

[cat]

netplus,
thank you for your response to my "Quick question" re: throttle stop screw ---- i thought it was counterclock to increase the rpm.
I'm having trouble maintaining an idle on my 1989 accord dx with carb. Seemed like turning it counterclock did get the idle up enough
to keep it running. It's better, but still stalls occacionally when i take my foot off the gas at stop signs.Probably vacuum leak related,
that's why i want to get rid of all the vacuum lines and see how that works. Any information on vacuum deletion you could direct me
to would be appreciated-----------thanks again

[netplus]

netplus,
thank you for your response to my "Quick question" re: throttle stop screw ---- i thought it was counterclock to increase the rpm.
I'm having trouble maintaining an idle on my 1989 accord dx with carb. Seemed like turning it counterclock did get the idle up enough
to keep it running. It's better, but still stalls occacionally when i take my foot off the gas at stop signs.Probably vacuum leak related,
that's why i want to get rid of all the vacuum lines and see how that works. Any information on vacuum deletion you could direct me
to would be appreciated-----------thanks again

Personally I am not a fan of deleting anything ( I am a stock guy). That being said , I would invest in a vacuum gauge to check for vacuum leaks. Here is the cheapest I found on ebay that measures inches of mercury (in. Hg): Automotive Caburetor Fuel Pump Vacuum Valve Diagnose Tester Gauge Tool kit . Also some auto-part stores have tools you can rent. I have the service manual for 1988 and electrical troubleshooting manual for 1987-1988 should be the same for 1989. I also have access to an automotive program on the computer. So let me know if you need torque specs or any other specs.

[Hondanewb]

Anyone got an oil cooler how to?

[aSoftVtec]

I just picked up an 87 prelude 2.0si, dirt cheap, runs and drives but needs a wheel bearing, I can't find a front hub assembly anywhere. Can someone please help me?

[Dr_Snooz]

You need the wheel bearing or the hub?

[aSoftVtec]

I'd like to do both, the hub is not bad but I might as well replace it while it's off

[Dr_Snooz]

You can find the bearings without much difficulty. Finding the hubs is going to be impossible.