Thanks Messy.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
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Thanks Messy.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
wix is good and i'm looking at the microguard from oreilies the exploded diagram looks just like wix,I need to cut one openQuote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
bosh filters are always good. Btw, Fram isn't that bad. A lot of people use them without a problem. I've seen Bisi use them on his builds plenty of times. I too have use them when I'm broke. It's better than not changing filter out. $.02
What's the biggest bore anyone has gone on the A20xx? I'm going 84mm, anyone else gone that big?
i think the biggest was 83 or bore over 0.050. i think thats to much IMO.Quote:
Originally Posted by gfrg88
have you ever cut open a fram and LOOKED at the inside of it? you would chuck every one you had in the trash. They are the most poorly made piece of shit available. The wix are probably the only decent one left, I was looking at the microguard at oreilies because they look like wix inside and are priced like fram.Quote:
Originally Posted by gfrg88
Don't think it's too much. Just wanted to see if anyone else has done it... I'm all for things that haven't been done before ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Like I said, they're better than a old dirty filter. I don't use them really... Gets the job done, imo.
I think I'd opt for a dirty Wix over a new Fram. There are more than a few stories of engine failures stemming from crappy Fram filters that simply collapsed and clogged the oil supply, like this guy, or this guy, or this one, or orings that failed and dumped all the oil on the highway (I can't find the story about the guy who blew up his new Vette this way, though I read it about a year ago). Near misses following Fram failures are legion on the net as are cutaway studies showing their dreadful quality. I would never recommend them and most definitely would never use them.Quote:
Originally Posted by gfrg88
Lost, when you get time, you can geek out on this website: http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml
It has cutaway views of all the major filters with comments about quality. It's dedicated to motorcycles, but I'd doubt the quality is different for the auto filters. You can save yourself the trouble of cutting them open. Enjoy!
when the little plastic flapper bypass opens in a few miles, because it's so weak you can open it with finger pressure, then it'll get the job done of bypassing all the dirty oil right past the filter. I'm not going to turn this thread into a fram vs no fram debate but read Snooze's links up there,Quote:
Originally Posted by gfrg88
Gonna replace the wheel hubs on my car since im guessing they are bone dry. After 23 year old hubs i think its about time i get new ones.
So im on rockauto and looking at hubs of course Timken and Moog hubs are the ones im looking so which one would you put on your car?
thats a good question both are good, why would your hubs be dry? they are sealed bearings, both the front and rear. when I took my bearings out the grease was still goodQuote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
well it makes a lil roaring noise. Not to loud but figure it might get louder if I keep using it.
ah sounds like the bearings are on the way out what are those part numbers you got for the timken and moog anyway?Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
heres TIMKEN:Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
TIMKEN Part # HA594460K Ball Bearing; 3.937 in. Bolt Circle Diam; 5.45 in. Flange Diameter; 56.08 mm Wheel Pilot Diam
Front; LXi Model
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1116663
and heres MOOG:
MOOG Part # 513033 Hub Assembly; Rear Wheel Bolt Quantity=4 Flange Dia=5.354" Bolt Circle Dia=3.941" Bolt Size=M12X1.5" Wheel Pilot Dia=2.0108" Brake Pilot Dia=2.4016" Flange Offset=2.154" Hub Pilot Dia=2.598" (Previously branded as National; package may be labeled as either brand)
Rear
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=219268
Well i misread on the hubs for Moog thinking it was for the Front:facepalm:
but these are for the rear and they also have timken rear hubs as well.
TIMKEN Part # 513033 Ball Bearing; 3.937 in. Bolt Circle Diam; 5.354 in. Flange Diameter; 56 mm Wheel Pilot Diam
2 required per vehicle; Rear
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1119804
Im not sure how i would replace the ones on the rears since i haven't or ever changed hubs myself. but im am confident in the work i do on my cars more the car shops here anyway. Also ill be getting rear disc from a member on here so drums will be gone.
the rear are so simple you can do them in a few minutes, you will need to order the nuts though,exactly the same as the ones on the cv axles on the front, you unstake the nut,take it loose, and everything comes right off, it will make sense when you do it, if you have drums you slip the drum off, the backing plate,springs etc all stay in place when you replace the hub.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
Okay so i dont mean to jack anybodys thread, but im new andi cant figure out how to start a new one of my own. Help pls?!
pick a section that matches what you are trying to figure out and post a thread,you can't hijack this thread as long as it's a stupid questionQuote:
Originally Posted by '88lx-i
Jumping in!
Hello, another fellow Cali member here (Humboldt). My girl recently was given an 87 accord sedan (pretty sure dx model... gold valve cover on the engine, efi, and power windows/cruise/tilt as options) from a family friend. She was told it needs a new starter and that was it. After towing it to my house, replacing the starter, replacing the neutral safety switch and checking fuses I have become stumped at what may be the issue.
History:
I checked fuses first and foremost. I dont have a voltmeter available but will be buying one soon. All fuses look in tact and somewhat new (bought a box just in case.) The solenoid wont click when the ignition is turned to start. The battery on the car is brand new, has even been charged after i drained it. The starter is brand new (just replaced today) and I even replaced the neutral safety switch a week ago.
I am a prior aircraft mechanic and do a lot of the mechanical maintenance on diesel tractors at work. I do all my own work on my cars unless it involves extensive amounts of tools/hoists since I dont have a garage. Please dont belittle me by asking me stupid questions like "Is the battery hooked up?"
Any help would be greatly appreciated and I look forward to being a member of a great community!
-Horis
There should be a transmission ground. Have you checked its condition? Have the main fuses also been checked? I've had those go bad with no visual indication that there was anything wrong.
Seems like you have all bases covered, and I think the best thing for you would be the same thing that helps me when I need help, and that's a factory service manual. We do have one available in digital format. It's available here. Sounds like you have a good bead on things and the wiring diagrams will help more than forum posts. That link has saved my ass many times.
Does anything happen if you rap the starter with a wrench while starting? Do the dash lights light, etc?
Do you still have the old starter? I would power it directly, testing it outside the car and see if it was really the problem.
What about the ignition switch itself.
Thanks for the reply guys. I do not have the original starter (core replacement) and I have not tapped on it, which from what I understand readjusts where the starter is positioned? I was going to try and "jump" the solenoid today to see if it will start that way. I have not checked the transmission ground either, where is it located? The dash lights, open door ding sound, windows, etc work (no stereo for some reason but I believe this was an issue before the car was ours.) Still no solenoid click. I will recheck the main fuses today as well but I am confident the ones under the dash are all good (the starter one is replaced so I know it's new.)
I was thinking yesterday it could be the ignition. I dont know too much about ignitions other than when I turn the key to certain positions, certain things happen except when it goes to start... then nothing happens.
Hopefully today is the day I can get it started. I really need the car for tomorrow to move with rather than move it. Wish me luck!
-Horis
Tapping the starter jars the solenoid and can help loosen it if it's sticky. x2 on possible bad ignition switch. They are pretty easy to replace.
is there power to the starter solenoid itself with the key turned? I know on manual cars it's direct to the solenoid from the key switch,but auto cars have a start relay which is part of the neutral safety switch, If I'm not mistaken later manual cars also have this,it's part of the clutch safety switch. Also check to make sure there isn't the remains of an alarm in there with a starter kill relay
