Pictures of the carb project and Video

some random pictures from progress on the carb project today
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...mechanic/1.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...mechanic/2.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...mechanic/3.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...mechanic/4.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...mechanic/5.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...mechanic/7.jpghttp://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...mechanic/8.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...mechanic/9.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...echanic/10.jpg

that is going to look how when it goes in Tim! and did u gian weight??? fatty..... j/k

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Originally Posted by lostforawhile

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...echanic/10.jpg

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ports don't line up. are you going to address that issue?

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Originally Posted by shepherd79

ports don't line up. are you going to address that issue?

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it's just sitting on there in the picture,they line up closer in the inside,the two outer ones are off a little bit,thats why the plate is so thick, I wanted enough material to be able to blend the ports together,once that plate is welded to the original manifold piece,I willl get in there with a pencil grinder and a flap wheel and blend them together. it's really hard to take a picture inside of the manifold.

are u going to dyno?

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Originally Posted by Cheeseburger

are u going to dyno?

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someday my california texas burger king whopper,someday LOL I better lose weight first or I'll mess up my dyno results,says this as eating choclate LOL:)

ok just have a few minutes,will get back with everyone tomorrow. a few pictures of the air cleaners being made. as of right now,one base is welded on,I'm waithing for a matching air cleaner to come in. tomorrow I'll solder up the base ring to the velocity stack to seal it,and hopefull the other air cleaner will come in then.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/4-3.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/3-5.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/2-5.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/1-5.jpg

awsome man!

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Originally Posted by lostforawhile

ok just have a few minutes,will get back with everyone tomorrow. a few pictures of the air cleaners being made. as of right now,one base is welded on,I'm waithing for a matching air cleaner to come in. tomorrow I'll solder up the base ring to the velocity stack to seal it,and hopefull the other air cleaner will come in then.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/4-3.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/3-5.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/2-5.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/1-5.jpg

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:eek5: that is a big ass velocity stack

i hate to say this, but that's going to flow poorly. i'm hoping that you have provisions there for velocity stacks, because what i'm looking at is just an air cleaner. you have plenty of room for velo stacks, though.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velocity_stack

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Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

i hate to say this, but that's going to flow poorly. i'm hoping that you have provisions there for velocity stacks, because what i'm looking at is just an air cleaner. you have plenty of room for velo stacks, though.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velocity_stack

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Yeha he's right, also those flanges you have in the middle sticking up 1/2 inch are going to totally screw any decent air flow., but they look neat. Good luck with them!

they remind me of metal mixing bowls....

i'm thinking he's going to be bolting velo stacks to the flange there. that would be the only reason i'd use air cleaners that big.

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Originally Posted by Bglad420

Yeha he's right, also those flanges you have in the middle sticking up 1/2 inch are going to totally screw any decent air flow., but they look neat. Good luck with them!

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ok some explanations,sorry about the short post. the flanges in the middle will be tapered in the lathe, I'm just not done with them yet. the venturi on SU type carbs looks like a tube,not like a standard venturi. in stock form they just suck air in the end of the carb. I just wanted to make something kind of wild looking. I'm in the process of leading in the seam on the air cleaner flange right now. I think when they are done (and purple) they will be really wild looking. what the extra holes in the center piece are are the vents that go to the dashpot piston on the top of the carb. they are factory on the carb,thats how the entire principal of constant depression carbs works. I will find the url to the definition of the carbs in a little while,it explains them a lot better then I can. and yes they (were) mixing bowls, stainless steel is a bitch to work with also. I've seen parts on custom cars made from everything you can imagine. if it's the right shape for the parts you need ,run with it. LOL. I even saw a set of headlight buckets made from the same thing on a street rod,he had just frenched the light assembly into the bowl and polished it. looked for all the world factory.

ok here is the url, this explains how they work and also what the extra holes in the flange are for. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SU_carburetor

as long as you taper that flange or what ever it is, it should work. try to find a way to get rid of that flange for a better flow. Also, are you going to use K&N filter or just regular paper shit?

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Originally Posted by shepherd79

as long as you taper that flange or what ever it is, it should work. try to find a way to get rid of that flange for a better flow. Also, are you going to use K&N filter or just regular paper shit?

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well I made those flanges because they are going to be turned into velocity stacks. that was the point of making them. on these carbs the air flows straight into a round untapered hole in front of the piston. any kind of flared area in front of it helps a lot in getting air into the carb. thats why those flanges are so thick,thats so I have enough material to machine the taper into them. these types of carbs respond a lot differently to air flow then a regular fixed venturi carb. remember the venturi in the carb gets bigger or smaller depending on engine demand. as far as filters for the moment I'll have the paper ones on here,then after everything is installed I'll get the K&n filters. this filter is a 6 1/2 X 2" the K&N filter is a 6 1/2 by 4" filter. almost 2 inches taller. there should be enough firewall clearance though. I had already measured from the back of the intake manifold flange to the firewall,before I even started this entire project.

the bottom part of them dishes look like there the magnetic part trays u get a p-bo

hey, it's no problem using stainless bowls for that stuff. just make sure your wife doesn't find out :p.

i've looked for egg poachers to make some ghetto velo stacks. when some guys on honda tech compared their looks and general (not precise) measurements to $150 velo stacks, they compared quite well, at all of $1 each at wal-mart. of course they didn't flow like the real velo stacks, but for the price difference, you could spend the money elsewhere and make more power than "real" velo stacks.

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Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

hey, it's no problem using stainless bowls for that stuff. just make sure your wife doesn't find out :p.

i've looked for egg poachers to make some ghetto velo stacks. when some guys on honda tech compared their looks and general (not precise) measurements to $150 velo stacks, they compared quite well, at all of $1 each at wal-mart. of course they didn't flow like the real velo stacks, but for the price difference, you could spend the money elsewhere and make more power than "real" velo stacks.

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I'm not worried about her finding out about the bowls,I got them for a dollar apiece. she helped hold the parts while I put the lead in the seams. she said if they were her bowls I would have been dead. the pieces at the bottom will be made into real velocity stacks. short ones,but read ones.

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the bottom part of them dishes look like there the magnetic part trays u get a p-bo

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those are made from billet aluminum,they just aren't turned into velocity stacks yet is all. the extra holes are the passages that go to the dashpot piston on the top of each carb.
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ok both air cleaner assemblies are finished,they look different in the pictures due to the fact that both identical air cleaner kits,had two different air cleaner elements. I'll fix that tomorrow. they aren't painted yet,this is due to the fact I need to weld on the fittings for the float bowl vents,and the two tubes for the pcv system fittings. the lead work came out pretty good around the seams,considering what i had to use .as far as equipment. the bottom picture makes it look like one air cleaner is off to the side,but thats just an optical illusion.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/5-2.jpgthis picture you can see some of the seam work,that involved a lot of lead work,then media blasting,then more lead work to fill the gaps.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/6-1.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/7-1.jpg

Interesting, now I know what a SU (Skinner Union) carburetor is. I seen one the other day on ebay. I had to copy & paste this, cause I seen this usefull on how the carburetor operates.

SU carburettors featured a variable venturi controlled by a piston. This piston has a tapered, conical metering rod (usually referred to as a "needle") that fits inside an orifice ("jet") which admits fuel into the airstream passing through the carburettor. Since the needle is tapered, as it rises and falls it opens and closes the opening in the jet, regulating the passage of fuel, so the movement of the piston controls the amount of fuel delivered, depending on engine demand.

The flow of air through the venturi creates a reduced static pressure in the venturi. This pressure drop is communicated to the upper side of the piston via an air passage. The underside of the piston is open to atmospheric pressure. The difference in pressure between the two sides of the piston tends to lift the piston. Opposing this are the weight of the piston and the force of a spring that is compressed by the piston rising. Because the spring is operating over a very small part of its possible range of extension, its force is approximately constant. Under steady state conditions the upwards and downwards forces on the piston are equal and opposite, and the piston does not move.

If the airflow into the engine is increased - by opening the throttle plate (usually referred to as the "butterfly"), or by allowing the engine revs to rise with the throttle plate at a constant setting - the pressure drop in the venturi increases, the pressure above the piston falls, and the piston is sucked upwards, increasing the size of the venturi, until the pressure drop in the venturi returns to its nominal level. Similarly if the airflow into the engine is reduced, the piston will fall. The result is that the pressure drop in the venturi remains the same regardless of the speed of the airflow - hence the name "constant depression" for carburettors operating on this principle - but the piston rises and falls according to the speed of the airflow.

ok the air cleaners are finished,I painted them wih a wrinkle black finish,and the tops the purple that is on my engine. one top has to be painted yet,because I ran out of paint. there will be a lot of purpe on the manifolds when done,so the black accents will go with the purple.
air cleaner
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/1-6.jpg
the fitting on the side is the vent from the fuel bowl. the fitting looks off because it's the wrong size adaptor,I was trying to figure out exactly where the hoses will sit. I have to order more -4 to 1/8 fittings.
[/i]the adaptor from the fuel bowl[/i]
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/3-6.jpg
I made these from barbed hose fittings with a pipe thread nut on the outside,and a male coupler. there is an o ring on the inside to seal the air cleaners. I cut off the barbs on the hose fittings so they wouldn't act like a siphon on the fuel bowl.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/2-6.jpg
new breather
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/4-4.jpg
got this k/n breather for three bucks at the car show,I'm working on a trick way to mount it between the air cleaners,that will let me use the braided line coming off of the valve cover. the piece that fit in the grommet was damaged,so I will make a turned aluminum piece that screws to the inlet side of the breather.

Wow. You're really really creative. That's sick looking.

OK the breather is done,this started as a three dollar used K&N breather from a junk pile at the car show.
breather after being media blasted and years on grime and grease emoved
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...chanic/4-4.jpg
the rubber piece that held the push on fitting was completly torn up,as well as the fitting was clogged. I sanded the rubber end of the breather flat and the first order of buisness was to make a mounting flange. normally it would have a shorter set screw,but I believe the cat ate the original one I had,so this is temporary.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...nic/8Feb-3.jpg
the entire assembly consists of six pieces.
1. the filter
2. the mounting flange
3. the breather pipe that connects to the flange
4. the threaded end which is press fitted on to the breather pipe
5. the mounting bracket
6. the 1/4 npt pipe thread to -6 AN adaptor which will connect to my existing braided breather line
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...nic/8Feb-1.jpg
the mounting bracket. this attaches to the fuel rail support. I messed up several of these making them,including one that was perfect and I broke a tap off in it. that little square aluminum block took about 4 hours total time to get right
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...nic/8Feb-2.jpg
the filter itself,I have to redo the purple on the end,due to the fact i screwed it up.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...nic/8Feb-4.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...nic/8Feb-5.jpg

sweet!

Very nice work lostforawhile

Its Alive!

im still lost on what that thing is...but it looks awesome though :D

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Originally Posted by mkymonkey

im still lost on what that thing is...but it looks awesome though :D

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Its two carbs, as too what kind i have no clue.


Nice work Tim.

Nice!

wow that looks good. i wish i could hear it in person after its finished

Yeah me too!

looks like a set of Arabian Purple Tities with white lace tied around them with ornamental shiny Nipple tacks. Damn you it looks nice :)

lmao i just noticed that his chair is purple too haha


anyway i know they're carbs but i dont know what they would add to the 3g. im sure more air flow but is it supped to be a lot better than what you had? im sure it is or else you wouldnt go through all this trouble. when i first saw it in the other thread it reminded me of the carb on my forklift. it looks like it exactly....except no lines for the propane haha

nice work!

thats bad ass

hmm, that's looking really good. when are you looking to have them mounted up and running?

Looking good. I love how neat and tidy the fuel lines look, and all the beautiful hardware in that piece. It's like a piece of art.

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hmm, that's looking really good. when are you looking to have them mounted up and running?

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It's going to be a while,after i get everything fitted I'm going to send the carbs back to Z therapy for an exchange. since they are experts on these carbs,I'll get back a set in perfect condition actually better then factory. then I just bolt them up and tune them. they send out a video tape with every rebuild and they guarantee you'll have them tuned within 30 minutes.still a lot of work though,I want to get the paint on the car first before I tear off all the old carb stuff,that way i can move it around for painting. when it's been mounted I will still have to figure out the carb supports from underneath.

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lmao i just noticed that his chair is purple too haha


anyway i know they're carbs but i dont know what they would add to the 3g. im sure more air flow but is it supped to be a lot better than what you had? im sure it is or else you wouldnt go through all this trouble. when i first saw it in the other thread it reminded me of the carb on my forklift. it looks like it exactly....except no lines for the propane haha

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these will be a lot better then factory,the factory keihin is the worst piece of crap honda ever made. no more snake injection. these would be the equivilent of a 38/38 downdraft,except they flow a lot more then a single downdraft,and it's much better balanced to have dual carbs on four cyl inline engine. Honda tried this pricipal on the lude wih the dual keihnins,but ended up with twice the spaghetti and a very poor intake manifold design. plus a carb that even the most simple task would give you a migraine trying to figure it out. I know a lot of dealers that refuse to work on those carbs,well i also know dealers that refuse to work on the carbs on our car as well. you get the picture.

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looks like a set of Arabian Purple Tities with white lace tied around them with ornamental shiny Nipple tacks. Damn you it looks nice

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ROLF X 10

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im still lost on what that thing is...but it looks awesome though

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it's the intake manifold and my two sidedraft SU carbs. I just finished the breather assembly that will connect to the valve cover.I'm going to try and get the adaptor plate tig welded up to the piece of original manifold monday. then i have to match the ports together. it will look more like a manifold then. I've been trying to figure out how to hold the two pieces together for welding.the engine side of the manifold is at a 15 degree angle so it's not like I can clamp it it place.

Wild looking set up
It looks like it is propane and nitrous enriched !!!lol
Very nice work

very original

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Originally Posted by roodoo2

Wild looking set up
It looks like it is propane and nitrous enriched !!!lol
Very nice work

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thanks the extra lines from the fuel bowl are the bowl vents,they just go to the air cleaner. I need to get the proper adaptors,I was using the dash three ones to place the location of the lines. it's going to be a while on the project due to money, I deceided to just send the carbs back to z therapy and exchange them for overhauled ones,it's actually cheaper then overhauling them myself. same carbs,better then new. they not only rebuild them, then fix the throttle shaft leakage problems,the tendency of the choke mechansms to stick, they even have linkages that are replated. so once the entire thing is mounted,I just unbolt the carbs,send them off,then bolt on the new ones. i'm going to get the adaptor plate welded up as soon as my income taxes come in. someone at work is going to weld them up for 50 bucks. he is one of the best welders I've ever seen,so they will be solid. the entire thing has to be preheated with a torch first,then mig welded. it's a lot of work,he's giving me a deal since he's my friend,and he has to do it on his time. thats half of what everybody else wanted to charge.

So the breather lets air in between the suction tubes to the float vent?

Thats how I set up my vents for the carb and for the gas tank. That way air is mixed in from the "T" fitting with the breather which sits inbetween the gastank/carb and the aircleaner. It keeps fuel from getting sucked up, and too much vapor which tends to stall the motor if it comes in as one big glob.



Id be all iffy about working with lead... :(

nice work on the aircleaners though. :)

Sweet 3geezus man! That is beautiful!

Not to mention this is one of the most educational threads to come by lately.

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Originally Posted by A20A1

So the breather lets air in between the suction tubes to the float vent?

Thats how I set up my vents for the carb and for the gas tank. That way air is mixed in from the "T" fitting with the breather which sits inbetween the gastank/carb and the aircleaner. It keeps fuel from getting sucked up, and too much vapor which tends to stall the motor if it comes in as one big glob.



Id be all iffy about working with lead... :(

nice work on the aircleaners though. :)

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thats my engine breather,i have a piece of braided line now from the valve cover to the other intake tube i built,it will just have to be shortened a little to go to that breather,the fuel bowls on these carbs have a vent fitting that goes to the original air cleaners,it would have been set up the way mine is set up now. except ugly rubber hose.

heres the link to the post on the breather https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58196

some pics of the carb project,ok i put some of the carb pictures in an album,they aren't captioned yet,or organized,but might be interesting anyway. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2.../bodywork4.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2095044052

damn that looks cool, i want to run a multiple carb setup one day :D DTBCBTTC

props on all the work too :thumbup:

Mount them puppies now!

J/k

awesome job :)

I had fuel guages but then were cheap and died from the vibration.

edit" oops those are vaccum guages... hrm


I have a feeling those carbs setup the way they are will be quite responsive

Can't wait to see a video or a nice 3.0 + megapixle image of them installed. :)


what was the throttle bore size of those again?

.
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interesting project I'm working on for the carbs setup. since I'm running liquid filled gauges,I needed a vent line for each gauge to equalize the pressure,the problem is that when the gauges are horizontal,opening the vent holes allows the glycerine in the gauges to run out. my solution was to build a breather system for the gauges.
this consists of a mounting plate,a round machined tube with a vent hole in the bottom side,and the associated hard lines to connect to the gauges. this represents about 30 hours of work so far,I also integrated the lines that go to the advance/retarded diaphram on the distributor. my goal with the dual carb setup is to not show any rubber vaccume lines if possible. all connections to the temp/vaccume valves will be on the bottom side of the manifold. all I want visible are hard lines or braided line. I will try and get a picture of this with it installed on the manifold,the paint is drying right now. it's easier to appreciate how it all fits when it's installed
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...2/ea633419.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...0/ea633414.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/ea633411.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...2/ea63340e.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...0/ea63340c.jpg

Good fix, I swear that car is going to look like barny when your done :lol: .

finished
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...7/ea63078a.jpg
the engine has been purple for a long time,i already had a dodge aspen[POS]painted green with a paint roller and that had big purple spots,called it barney the dodge dinasaur

barny car FTW

lol any good job :D

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Originally Posted by lostforawhile

finished
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...7/ea63078a.jpg
the engine has been purple for a long time

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I already knew that :D . How long do you have untill the carbs are on the car and functional?

You're soooo dedicated to this car. I can tell I'm dedicated but you're on top of my lift. I was recently showing pictures of your project to my girl and telling her how much time you spent on this car!

Can't wait to see those carbs installed. You got to find a way to show us a video of those.

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Originally Posted by Legend_master

I already knew that :D . How long do you have untill the carbs are on the car and functional?

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it's going to be a while waiting on money too. I still have to take the manifold somewhere and have it finished up being tigged. when everything is done and ready to go on the car,I still have to send the carbs off to z therapy and have them exchanged. just lots of little pieces and parts to make,working on a support system for the manifold/carbs,these are heavy!! probably not more then all the factory crap assembled though. thought about building a brace off the three valve cover bolts, then a couple of heim joints to an aluminum bar off of the manifold adaptor plate. anything behind the apator plate is bolted on with eight 5/16 bolts,just want to makew sure the plate and the welds on the manifold are supported.

bump

still working on it,thanks for the bump, spent 4 hours in the machine shop at work saturday working on the throttle cable bracket assembly, got it done,now it will connect to a factory cable. took a bunch of pictures,but the only place to develop them is at Walmart and their photocenter has been down for over a week. when it gets fixed i will post them. have to figure out the choke cable itself,the one from the mazda is too short,i'm thinking lxi throttle cable will work,just have to modify the pedal end. then i'll make a bracket like i did for the throttle cable,should be easy now that the engineering is done. still haven't found a machine shop that can weld the manifold, need to take a trip to atlanta to see my parents,there are a ton of shops there. there isn't too much engineering to do, i need to find a junk cyl head with a valve cover,then i can bolt the manifold to it and make the brackets i need. the accord is down right now anyway due to an exploded cv axle and a leaking heater core. I also had to modify the hard tubing i talked about in this post, it got in the way of the throttle cable,i had to strip the paint off of it,rebend it,and make some new brackets. i still need to solder the tubing to the brackets.

well here's a pic of the bracket,sorry about the quality picture came out blurry,had to run it through imagestation,still need an lxi throttle cable for the choke if someone has one lying around they don't want. just pm me or send me a mail through the site. http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/2...cketpx9.th.jpg

I cannot wait to see these on the car. Great work. You really spend a great amount of time thinking it through and doing quality work.

well here is another pic i found,i had to strip all the paint from the hard lines,i have to resolder them in a different position. this is to clear the throttle cable. i made a new bracket at the same time i made the throttle cable bracket. you can see it in the picture before this one. i have to solder the bracket to the lines,then repaint them.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/3...ket2lq7.th.jpg

bumped this back up,in case anyone finds an lxi throttle cable. would like to get busy on the machine work to get the choke cable done. :)

got the choke knob in,it doesn't look that big from the front,but this is the assembly from the mazda,it's a lot bigger on the back side. very tight fit.I already had a half inch hole there for a switch,but i had to start a 7/8 hole partway across it. i couldn't do it on the drill press.the bit would have walked,so i had to take the entire console apart,clamp it in the milling machine,and mill it out. there is zero clearance between the bottom of the choke pull and the back bracing in the console. I was going to take some technical pictures,but i ran out of film. I will take some later. I'm going to put the grommet in the firewall tomorrow,just to see how much cable i've got to work with. another small step done.sorry if the car looks messy,i can vaccume the floor and it looks dirty in five minutes. the carpet is due to be replaced soon anyway. everything looks dusty,thats because it's pollen central here and it's simply impossible to keep the dust down. the red lamp on the panel tells you that the choke is pulled by the way.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...26-00A_027.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2.../chokeknob.jpg

il bet it will come in handy on those cold days.

well these don't work like a convential choke, they actually move the needle in the carb to ritchen the mixture, it's handy to have even when hot starting,with these big SUs you need a little bit of choke to start the car even on hot days. I remember these carbs off one of my Z cars, i'm sure they will act the same way on the hatch. speaking of the dust,i'm suffering big time,i usually don't get allergies bad,but this year is horrible.we've gotten like a half inch of rain in two months,and the wind is kicking up big time,has been for weeks,thats why we are having those really bad wildfires just south of here. the dust is covering everything,even inside the house.

you pull that out right before you wanna jump shit right?





:D

yay manual choke ftw.. auto chokes are gay and are half the reason why accord carbs suck cock

well i didnt even think about it but i think my 280Z parts car still has the choke cable in it. i was thinking of doing exactly what you have done when i got the parts car. using the SU's on a modded manifold and what not for the accord. they have been sitting in my garage for quite a while now, of course in need of a good cleaning and rebuild to work. well, looks good, now it can run decently i guess.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wohdog

yay manual choke ftw.. auto chokes are gay and are half the reason why accord carbs suck cock

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ahahahah i completely agree

Nice work. :rockon:

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Originally Posted by frantik

you pull that out right before you wanna jump shit right?


:D

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I see you figured out what the altimeter is for.

:thumbup:

nice job lost


you got a drought also lol in manitoba i think they have only had 2mm of rain this month :thumbdn: atack of the wasps 2007...........

ok finally some pictures of some of the new projects
I believe i posted about this before,I had to extensivly modify the choke pull assembly i got from the mazda,in order to make it be able to work,with my SU setup. I got rid of all the guts inside of the choke pull assembly,made a new rod that goes all the way through the part,and extends ouside of it, this is vs. the factory cable that was attached to it. this will link to the choke cable externally. I wanted to keep the choke warning switch,so i had to redesign a new plate activation switch. also the original guide plates wouldn't work any more,so i had to design an external system for the rod. this consists of a guide block and a guide bushing. the rod is 1/4 inch or .250, I reamed the guide bushing to .003 oversize,that means it's only three thousands of an inch bigger then the rod.
here's a picture of the back side of the center console
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...5/e98da98e.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/e98da985.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/e98da946.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...e/e98da909.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...e/e98da8d6.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f/e98da8b0.jpg
the articulated choke linkage thingy-mc-bobber-whatever you call it
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/e98daa04.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...a/e98da9f9.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...2/e98da9ee.jpg

here are those two pictures with the arrows again,photobucket is acting up,and image station limits your picture size,i think this one will show actual size.
http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7...184aka3.th.jpg

i already posted this in carb tec,but since it's mostly pictures i posted it here ..................also ok finally some pictures of some of the new projects
I believe i posted about this before,I had to extensivly modify the choke pull assembly i got from the mazda,in order to make it be able to work,with my SU setup. I got rid of all the guts inside of the choke pull assembly,made a new rod that goes all the way through the part,and extends ouside of it, this is vs. the factory cable that was attached to it. this will link to the choke cable externally. I wanted to keep the choke warning switch,so i had to redesign a new plate activation switch. also the original guide plates wouldn't work any more,so i had to design an external system for the rod. this consists of a guide block and a guide bushing. the rod is 1/4 inch or .250, I reamed the guide bushing to .003 oversize,that means it's only three thousands of an inch bigger then the rod.
here's a picture of the back side of the center console
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...5/e98da98e.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/e98da985.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/e98da946.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...e/e98da909.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...e/e98da8d6.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f/e98da8b0.jpg
the articulated choke linkage thingy-mc-bobber-whatever you call it
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...9/e98daa04.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...a/e98da9f9.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...2/e98da9ee.jpg

Yay!

pimp

ok more work on the choke linkage,had to reengineer the linkage assemby, the cable housing wanted to move,so i redesigned it to allow the cable end housing to swivel on two ball bearings in a cradle. i'm going to have to reengineer the loaction of the voice box again,going to mount the cable holder to the brackets that hold the combination timer unit. right below the timer. this will allow the housing to swivel slightly with the choke actuator rod and prevent binding.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/e978bd85.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/e978bd27.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/e978bcf2.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...0/e978bca0.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...0/e978bc46.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...6/e978bc0a.jpg

what the hell is altimeter? is that for airplanes to measure the altitude?

why is that in your car?


looks good. can't wait to see everything done and running.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shepherd79

what the hell is altimeter? is that for airplanes to measure the altitude?
why is that in your car?
looks good. can't wait to see everything done and running.

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Yeah I don't understand the altimeter

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hans

Yeah I don't understand the altimeter

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its to see how high you are...WEEEEEEEEEEEEEE :bong:

the altimeter has been my joke for a long time, i work in an aircraft plant by the way lol. if you look at the three switches in the center console they are also aircraft switches. there are a lot of things on this car made from airplane parts,you would be amazed at what gets trashed in the manufacturing of airplanes. there is a lot of stuff that you would never know came off of an airplane,unless i told you. if you look at the post i just put up on the painting of some of my body parts,look at the intake tube,part of that is from an old cesna,i just cut it in half and welded on to it. the other thing about the altimeter is i've always been a big fan of Harley Earl,the famous car designer,he liked to do a lot of things inspired by aircraft,some of his concepts from the 40's look like airplanes on wheels. but he liked to use aircraft gauges in his cars,so thats a little bit of tradition to him.

hey it could still be used for carb tuning as jets, mixture screws, and float level need to be set based on altitude..

another one,if you can find a picture of my overhead console,the one that the xm is attached to,the part with the two switches, that would normally be inside out,and have two jacks mounted in it for an aircraft headset. it would be recessed. after i made this, i found out the very earliest hondas had overhead switches like it that were supposed to be inspired by jets. the japanese were always inspired by aircraft too.

anyway,back on topic, these cables i'm using have sliding metal rods,not stranded cable,again aircraft parts,the rods are threaded on each end with 1/428 threads. on the end that attches to the choke pull it has a high misalignment speherical ball joint end. this enables it to be a little bit out of line,and still work. once i get one of these cables into the engine compartment,i have to make a bracket that allows it to pull on an lxi throttle cable which screws into my slide i made,to connnect the dual choke cables together. so two cables and a bunch of linkage parts. Mousetrap anyone?

I hope your engine doesn't shift and cause the linkage to move as well... my engine would jump and twist inside the engine bay so I could never do what you're doing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by A20A1

I hope your engine doesn't shift and cause the linkage to move as well... my engine would jump and twist inside the engine bay so I could never do what you're doing.

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i'm not running a fixed linkage all the way to the choke assembly,i have to mount the choke cable under the dash,it has fixed metal rods on each end of the cable,but it's a flexible cable. i need the linkage between the choke knob assembly and the cable itself. the cable housing has to move a little in order for the rod coming from the choke knob to not bind up. it's flexible cable from where it's mounted under the dash to outside in the the engine compartment. these chokes work by pulling tension, they move the metering rod in the carb,not move a choke plate. once i get this cable assembly outside of the engine compartment, it will pull on an lxi throttle cable which actually moves the choke pull bar.

hey. engine pic walk around video,let me know if this is blurry,if it is,i'll redo it tomorrow. i can't tell because of my computer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yEBGSYxS1A

Video of manifold
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_04C-W3HHQ

dam tim nice engine its a bit blurry but it might be cause of the camera, try taking a pic of it with the flash on or if theres a lot of light take a pic with flash off try both.

its not really blurry but looks low res. Was someone hammering in the background?

And I though this was going to have that manifold on already.

i might have had the camera on macro. one of my usual mistakes with this camera. it'll be a while before the other manifold goes on. i will reshoot it tomorrow. I don't know what the banging is,haven't figured it out yet.

nice

That purple paint kinda reminds me of machinist blue the way it reflects and all

image station says they will be back up about 3 am PST so the pics in all three threads will be back up. if you looked at the engine video,look under al vidos,and there is one about the carb also.

image station is back up and so are the pics also click on the carb links on my signature,and the SU project link has new pictures up :)

I am redoing part of the choke pull so it works with my cable i just put in.
http://lh5.google.com/lostforawhile/...jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh6.google.com/lostforawhile/...jpg?imgmax=512
still more machining to do,but it slides freely.
http://lh4.google.com/lostforawhile/...jpg?imgmax=512
http://lh6.google.com/lostforawhile/...jpg?imgmax=512
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...88016712812800

posted the wrong video,here is the correct one http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...60972598499839

man you sure know what ur talking about, good work!

You do some excellent work.!