What is the best way to clean the engine/head inside and out?
What is the best way to clean the engine/head inside and out?
Hot tanking
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Hmmm.....I figured hot water would work the best.
well i dont know if this would help but...here
Engine Block Preparation Guide for the Do-It-Yourselfer
take it to a shop and get it in an acid bath / hot tanked.will look way better than u could every do in the garage.
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Monkey - awesome how to! Thanks!
Chris - how much would it cost just to tank it at a shop?
Hot tanking is the best
Originally Posted by BITESIZE
it's not very expensive and the results are worth it. I can't give you an exact figure, because every shop is different. You have to completely dissemble the whole block to get it done.
yeah i dont remember exactly, but it shouldnt be more then $100 for both, but it may be much less..... just bring them bare head, bare block, totally dissasembled... wait im thinking it might have been like $26 per thing i had dipped... but im not going to go find my recepit to look! hehe
Originally Posted by bobafett
on the head you can leave the valve train in tack and they can still tank it. Just remove the cam
I'f I wanna clean the head up decent do I have to dissassemble it? I plan on redoing the bearings on the block as well. The rings were done recently, should I take the rods out and keep track which cylinder they went in, or should I leave the rods in the cylinder and just replace the bearings? I'm not a total retard, just a newbie at block and heads.![]()
Originally Posted by BITESIZE
No, just take the cam out and you should be fine. As for the bottem end, you are going to have to take out the pistons and rods anyways to have it hot tanked. If I were you I would go ahead and have the Crank, Crank pully, Pistons, and rods balanced. You would be pretty happy with how well the motor will run after that.
Question: If I get the head dipped, should I remove the valves and valve seals?
Honest opinion what all should i do with the block and head (stockwise).
What do you think about valve seals? Replace or leave alone? etc....
I plan on taking it slow on getting the engine fully assembled. I want to keep it stock. I want it to be clean and look awesome though.
P.S. I don't want to be digging far into my pockets for cash either. I'm no poor but not rich!![]()
Last edited by BITESIZE; 02-10-2006 at 05:06 PM.
Originally Posted by BITESIZE
With motors a old as ours it is a good idea to do anything you can. It all comes down to how much money you want to spend on it. Do you plan on turboing it or jsut keeping it stock.
No turbo
If your going to hot tank the block, take the pistons out. Keep track of which ones they go in by putting a punch mark dot on the lower part near the journal. One punch dot for #1, two punch dots for #2, etc. Don't mix up the rod caps.Originally Posted by BITESIZE
When ever you pull the pistons out, you should always put new rings back in. Plastigauge your rod & crank journals to see if you need oversized bearings.
With the head, should replace the cam seals. If you want to clean it up real good, pull the valves out & remove all the carbon on the whole valve. Use a piece of cardboard & punch holes in it to keep track of where each valve goes with numbers & intake & exhaust side. Don't mix up any parts.
Also replace valve stem seals, check for valve wear by moving the vavle back & forth, if there is any play, then you would need to mic the valves for wear or the vavle guide needs replaced.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 02-10-2006 at 05:18 PM.
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My Wife clean's my Head for me![]()
LX-R coming soon Here's a hint. 89mm stroke/ 41.60cc head /ARP head & main stud's /SRP piston's 81.5mm 9:5:1/Crower Rod's & more to come
I just need a better engine than my 293,000 miler...
I would just buy an engine in nice condition, but what is the fun in that? I want to learn how to master our engine.
I'm hoping the same for Valentine's Day.Originally Posted by TWOLOUDNPROUD
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Honestly I think I'm going to go the extra mile and replace as much as I need to and bust out my fatty chilton's manual. I'm like a blind man walking down the street with no cane. LOL.
Every Day Valentine's Day for MeOriginally Posted by BITESIZE
As the Guy from Cabin Boy Says These Pipes are Clean
Last edited by TWOLOUDNPROUD; 02-10-2006 at 05:14 PM.
LX-R coming soon Here's a hint. 89mm stroke/ 41.60cc head /ARP head & main stud's /SRP piston's 81.5mm 9:5:1/Crower Rod's & more to come
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
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Originally Posted by BITESIZE
Yeah you might as well just rebuild the one you already have and learn something in the process.
Just make sure she dosent give you an acid bathOriginally Posted by TWOLOUDNPROUD
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I want to pretty much yank my old engine out and put the whole new unit in.
I need new seals all way around.
Water pump
Timing belt/tensioner
Throttle Body FI
Distributer maybe...If I find one cheap enough
What else am I forgetting?
Originally Posted by BITESIZE
I had no prior knowledge of engine building and neither did my friend, but we built my LS/vtec in no matter of time and it runs smooth as hell. Just make sure that you have all the proper tools, you get all you part machined to the proper specs, and you use all the proper TQ # for your nuts and bolts.
The cylinder walls look damn good, so I don't need to get them done. Pistons are fine. The block belonged to a friend, he took it out because he said he may have put the bearings in wrong. Do you think it's fucked up? He said he put maybe 500 miles or 1000 miles on it after replacing the bearings. He replaced the rings as well.
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