The Journey 89 turbo'ed-----89T

[Hash_man_Se_i]

Ummm.... Wow!! .... That power and torque curve is wicked. That thing must be awesome to drive, damn.

Keep up the good work!

[89T]

has anyone thought about it?
we know that you can modify the ford dizzy to fit a a20..... I can vouch for that one...

now lets say you take the ecu, harness, and all the sensors from a 85-88 thunderbird turbo coupe and install them in to a accord.(88 uses maf sensor)
you'd be able to boost up to 20 lbs with out any extra tunning. no btm noting but the ecu.
course you'll still have to upgrade all the supporting mods for a turbo car.
the ford ecu also uses low impeadance peak and hold injectors.

there are tunning options such as the eecIV tunner.

Do you guy's think i am way off base here or is there something there..

edit: heres the eec tuner link. http://www.eec-tuner.com/products_choice.htm

heres another one this bad ass.. http://www.tweecer.com/CalEdit.htm

[A20A1]

Cool the font they used in their logo "click here" is "Sofachrome"
same as our "3Geez".

anyways sound interesting.

[89T]

First thing that comes to mind is firing order, but that can be reset via software or hardwiring via dizzy.

I know it can be done, just like any other given standalone and ECU hack. Didn't Sean use GM parts?

I think this is a hell of a lot more economical and straightforward then most setups though. Ford parts are hella cheap, especially from the JY. The MAF makes tuning a little easier. This might be one step forward from OBD1 conversion as well.

yea sean used gm parts, the only differance is you can find the ford parts easier, and like you said alote cheaper.

firing order is easy to get around...all you have to do is switch plug wires around.

i was reading on turboford.org that they were doing DIS setup's also. If that is not a huge step in the right direction I dont know what is!

the mustang SVO has the same motor as the thunderbird.

[89T]

Nice numbers dude, the HP line is very smooth and I cant believe how much TQ you made. That is insane, becasue 2.0L b-series TQ numbers are always about 50 less then HP. Good build and do you plan on upping the boost anymore?

i knew the torque #"S were going to be pritty high judging from the time slips i got earlier in the year. I was hoping for better hp #'s but i guess this will do.
I still need to simplify the ignition system, upgrade it were possible.pull the btm i think it is killing me on the upper end.(the reason for the drop off at 5800 rpm.)
as for boost yes after i build a tunned manifold, ignition mods,copper head gasket ,arp's,and possibly built head and custom turbo cam.
I am also looking into ways to reduce crank case and valve train pressure.
i know i can use the exhaust to pull vacume, or use a vacume pump but i am undecided.
If i get that figured out i will try to tune it to 18lbs and hope she holds up.

what do you have for management?
I would like to know how they tunned it.
very nice numbers i like them a lot. good job.

I am running the holley commander950 standalone with a modified ford distributer.
this dyno is totaly different from a standard dynojet. This dyno you can tune at 30 40 50 60 70 80 mph... basicly you set a speed at say 40mph and you can tune partial throttle, mid throttle, and full throttle.. the dyno wont let the wheel's travel any faster than what you set it at. also as you change mph you also move up or down in the rpm range. This thing is bad ass.
on a dynojet you make a pull stop and tune off a graph and hope you fixed an issue then make another run to see if you fixed it then tune it again if needed...and so on.
and thanks.

awesome numbers man? shoot me an email ([email protected]) with alllllll the details on your build and i will put up a web page for it.

i'll get it to you soon.
I appreciate it.

Ummm.... Wow!! .... That power and torque curve is wicked. That thing must be awesome to drive, damn.

It's a handfull! Literally!
the tourque steer is crazy.

I think I'm more impressed with the torque curve than I am the peak HP. =)
That just shows how the A20's head flows though.
What is that, ~233ftlbs @ 4600RPM? Almost twice as much with an average amount of boost

yea i was hoping for at least 280 on hp,but those are the card's i got. not a bad deal though.
yup i need head work.
acctually the peak hp and peak tourque were almost exactly 10 off.
so that would mean 224 peak tourque.
that would explain the 1.7sec 60' times "torque".and a 14.2 at 85 mph verses 103-105 for the avarage low 14 sec run.

[89T]

I just picked up a 4-g dizzy and thinking about trying neptune again.

[teck]

sexy

[89T]

looks like march 24 or 25 i'll be down getting some time slips.
hoping to pull low 13's to high 12's. If the tranny holds up.

[gfrg88]

looks like march 24 or 25 i'll be down getting some time slips.
hoping to pull low 13's to high 12's. If the tranny holds up.

WERE?!?! i thought bandimere was openining up on april 29?!? GIVE ME SOME INFO!!! PM where youre going out to

[89T]

http://www.pueblomotorsportspark.com/pmidrag.htm
pueblo about 45min south of the springs.

sat is street tires and jr drag's.
sun is drag radial and slicks.
i am not sure which day i will be going yet.

[89T]

bad news. i changed the oil in my trans yesterday, the oil came lookin a greenish lookin color. there was a bunch of metal flakes in the oil also.
this bad winter has killed me money wise so it will be awhile before i can get another trans.

so here is the question.
do i run it and run the risk of blowing it on the track?

or do i wait and get another and rebuild it?

[mkymonkey]

wait

[AccordEpicenter]

does it grind? Metal flakes are usually just syncro material, nothing fatal nessescerily. Just take 2 hands and put them on your inner cv joins and push them up and down, if they have alot of play in them your diff bearings are going out, but unless your diff bearings are going out or your tranny grinds, i would just leave the trans, its probably fine. My tranny was beat to shit and i only changed it because its missing an ear off the bottom case and there area about 12 stripped bolt holes on it (for real)

[MessyHonda]

get a bad ass rebuild tranny...with carb gears

[89T]

does it grind? Metal flakes are usually just syncro material, nothing fatal nessescerily. Just take 2 hands and put them on your inner cv joins and push them up and down, if they have alot of play in them your diff bearings are going out, but unless your diff bearings are going out or your tranny grinds, i would just leave the trans, its probably fine. My tranny was beat to shit and i only changed it because its missing an ear off the bottom case and there area about 12 stripped bolt holes on it (for real)

2nd gear is getting hard to get into on a hard pull. no real grinding but it wont go in sometimes. i'll check the diff tommarrow night, today is family day.
thanks for the advice.

get a bad ass rebuild tranny...with carb gears

i will admit that the trans is my weakness. so where would i need to go to get a bad ass rebuild?
i thought the teg swap was the way to go?
whitch trans is it any way. the d16zc or the b18a?

[MessyHonda]

i will admit that the trans is weakness. so where would i need to go to get a bad ass rebuild?
i thought the teg swap was the way to go?
whitch trans is it any way. the d16zc or the b18a?

short gears are for NA cars. the carb gears are the longest gears so the turbo spools up and you dont run out of RPM.

and yeah the 1st gen teg gears fit our trans..but i would not recomend it...ive been in Openloops car with teg gears...you are doing like 60mph@3000rpm in 5th gear.

[AccordEpicenter]

im gonna say teg gears are a no no on a boosted accord, they will be wayyy short. If youre na they might do the trick but in reality, any carb or fi accord trans should do the trick. A lude SI tranny might not be that bad either, because 3rd 4th and 5th are a little shorter. Right now im running a carbed trans, and it has slightly longer gears than my old lxi trans, so 1st gear/2nd gear are more useable.

EDIT: Sloppy shifter bushings can make it hard to find gears somtimes also

[89T]

thanks guys! it looks like the carb'ed trans is the way to go.
any specific year or model?

[89T]

Prelude Transmission on Accord (+gear ratio)
You can use the gen2 prelude (84-87) transmission on your Accord
It has a more performance oriented gear ratio (the higher the number, the shorter the gear)
However, if you use the transmission from a 1.8L engine, you will need to change the flyhweel, pressure plate and the clutch since they are smaller. If you're affraid about the clutch not being strong enough, replace it with a performance clutch and it will hold more than you need to. The 1.8L flywheel is also lighter.
'85 Lude (carb):
1- 3.181
2- 1.944
3- 1.250
4- 0.933
5- 0.757
FD 4.071 (86-87 carb FD is 3.875)
Si Lude:
1- 3.181
2- 1.842
3- 1.250
4- 0.937
5- 0.771
FD 4.066
88 LXi:
1- 3.181
2- 1.842
3- 1.208
4- 0.878
5- 0.694
FD 4.066 (including all autos)
carb manual FD is 3.866
Thanks to Night for this information.

when i swapped to a manual i used the 88 lxi trans because of this thread.
so what i am getting at is i need the 85 lude (carb)?

[EricW]

The longest gears are in the 86-87 carbs (dx,lx) because the final drive is smaller.

[AccordEpicenter]

86-89 carbed trans are all the same so far as i know... You dont want to use an 85 lude carb tranny it wont work

[mikes87lude]

Hi 89turbo'ed I'm noob, I mean, new to the site. Just read the post, and it is very incouraging. I have an '87 lude si and am in the process of turbo charging. My head is P&P, intake is port matched, and I'm running MegaSquirt. The only issue I have is ignition timing control. I could go with a BTM, but if I can use MS to control the ignition I would like to. My question is, how good do you feel about the amount of timing control you get with the '86 Tempo dizzy? The mod seems simple enough, take both dizzys to a machine shop and tell them make this one like that one. If it is effective I may try it. After all it would be more simple than what I was going to atempt, which is setup the motor to run GM DIS ignition. Again props on the thread.
Mike

[AccordEpicenter]

the GM DIS setup has also been done on an A20 but it required the use of a custom made crank trigger. Its probably the most accurate ignition ive seen yet for this motor but as long as you get rid of the stock vacuum advance dizzy when you go turbo and go to some kind computer controlled ignition you should be fine. Ive used the BTM and it does work but i would like to have more control over timing if i was gonna run more than like 12psi or so, its kind of a ballpark device

[89T]

Hi 89turbo'ed I'm noob, I mean, new to the site. Just read the post, and it is very incouraging. I have an '87 lude si and am in the process of turbo charging. My head is P&P, intake is port matched, and I'm running MegaSquirt. The only issue I have is ignition timing control. I could go with a BTM, but if I can use MS to control the ignition I would like to. My question is, how good do you feel about the amount of timing control you get with the '86 Tempo dizzy? The mod seems simple enough, take both dizzys to a machine shop and tell them make this one like that one. If it is effective I may try it. After all it would be more simple than what I was going to atempt, which is setup the motor to run GM DIS ignition. Again props on the thread.
Mike

hey mike the ease of instillation on the ford eec-IV dizz is A+++++!
i messed around with a hand full of honda dizzy's and i have came to the conclusion that they are a pain in the ass.

i am not real familliar with the megasquirt management, but i can lead you in the right direction to use the ford dizzy with that management.
go to this site www.turboford.org there are a bunch of people using megasquirt.

note the came key only goes one direction.........
good luck with you'r build.

ooh the amount of timing control excelent.

[mikes87lude]

....Ive used the BTM and it does work but i would like to have more control over timing if i was gonna run more than like 12psi or so, its kind of a ballpark device.....

I plan on running 10 to 12 psi. I'll be using a small T3 (.42/.48) compressor which is only good for about 15 psi before it runs out of breath. The reason I don't want to use a BTM is because it is a "ballpark" form of control, not to menton the price tag that is attahced to it. Money wouldn't be an issue if it was dead on accurate. I just can't see spending the amount of money I have, and will, spend on this build just to have the motor blow and need to be rebuilt. All because of an inaccurate tune.

Can you point me to who has done a GM DIS mod?