Engine Swaps

[SZfiftyfour]

un-fucking-real! Im so jealous.

[Dr_Snooz]

Many congratulations Ichi! Very righteous build.

[Ichiban]

john mail him your digital camera then i wanna see videos now!!!

Yeah, I wanna share that unreal howl with everyone! I got a K+N short ram and filter from Steve yesterday for free, and now the entire downtown turns to look when she clears her throat. I'd also like to see other people do this swap. (esp keep the EFI or multi-carb)

Hooray & congratulations! Terrific & exciting achievement.
Didn't realize you actually had it semi-driveable when you said you almost had it running! (You skipped the exhaust / routing / cross-member clearance details.)

I'm using the modified crossmember and transmission beam from the 84-85 Accord. I installed it, jacked up the car with it and had a bunch of people jump on it and it didn't flex, so I said OK for now. Eventually going to design a heavy square tube version that uses multiple mounting points, but until then will keep an eye on this one.

mint as. this is a different engine to the one i sold you?

Nope, very same one. No discernable smoke at any RPM or load. Does leak oil from the headgasket, but not really much. Everything sounds tight, even though the cams did show some wear. I am having some low RPM issues, it seems to load up when hot unless I drive at WOT everywhere. I bled all the air out of the T-stat housing, and have a new Bosch uni-fit O2 sensor. I wonder if the FPR is bogus or maybe the 1/4 inch fuel return line is causing too much restriction, and loading at idle/cruise? No MIL to speak of, but oil smells slightly of gas.

Sweet dude! Oh man, I want to come up and see how she goes! That transmission sounds like it's working out great then! I'm so stoked to hear it, I wish mine ran so well! Maybe I should just replace the cams with some B18 cams, and toss in a new oil pump and see what happens...

I should be able to make it up in September. I can't do it this month, I've got obligations every weekend... through the 4th of September...

B18 cams are gonna suck. See if you can get the B20A cams repaired or copied. I'm sure these motors are all about the cams.

Unfortunately this weekend I'm going back to Red Deer, school for 2 months, then life goes on. But we should plan something, I want to come back down after school is finished.

congrats! and I know that stupid grin feeling and love it

I still get it every time the tach says 7.

un-fucking-real! Im so jealous.

Many congratulations Ichi! Very righteous build.

Thanks!

[AccordB20A]

i was hoping that motor i sold you wasnt going to be a dud glad its working out for you

[Ichiban]

I am having some low RPM issues, it seems to load up when hot unless I drive at WOT everywhere. I bled all the air out of the T-stat housing, and have a new Bosch uni-fit O2 sensor. I wonder if the FPR is bogus or maybe the 1/4 inch fuel return line is causing too much restriction, and loading at idle/cruise? No MIL to speak of, but oil smells slightly of gas.

I was still having this problem when I parked the car. Does anyone know what it is? I was thinking back the other day that I might have read the timing marks from the B20A flywheel are different to the A20 flywheel I used. Is this true? Really can't remember.

All I know is the car should run idle/part throttle way better than it does, and I'd like to fix it when I get back to it.

[AccordB20A]

set the motor to TDC on the flywhel and have a look at where the crank pulley key is, if its upright i think that its good. or put a screw driver down a spark plug hole haha

[Ichiban]

I was looking down #1 plug hole before when I was lining it up and TDC seems to be, well, TDC. I'm curious if maybe the distributor is a bit wack, or not advancing properly.

[AccordB20A]

are you using the ph3/pj5 and the B20A dizzy and cam sensor?? maybe go get a b20a5 dizzy and cam sensor to rule that out

[Ichiban]

are you using the ph3/pj5 and the B20A dizzy and cam sensor?? maybe go get a b20a5 dizzy and cam sensor to rule that out

I'm using the PJ5 you sent and the dist/crank and cam sensor from the B20A I bought from Quebec. I swapped them before I knew about the ignitor problem, and your distributor looked kinda rusty inside. I'm eventually going to go with a new B20A5 distributor but I thought it would run for now on what it has. The cam sensors are identical between B20A and A5, yes?

Edit, the car seems to run best when I push the timing all the way advanced, at least within the limited range offered. It barely runs in the middle/retarded, but improves if pushed ahead.

[AccordB20A]

i guess the cam timing is set correctly?? lol both up things on the cam pulleys are up and the marks on the pulleys all line up together and be in line with the head?

[Ichiban]

i guess the cam timing is set correctly?? lol both up things on the cam pulleys are up and the marks on the pulleys all line up together and be in line with the head?

We're wondering about that. We tried a bunch of things, and can't get it perfect. If the exhaust cam is set to flat, the intake came is either slightly ahead, with a bunch of slop in the belt, or obviously trailing by one tooth. With the front of the belt tight and the exhaust cam perfectly flat, the crank is either about 5 deg late, or with one tooth different, 15 deg early. I'm really curious how you guys actually get these to run well?

Still wondering if the MAP or TPS is screwed, given the terrible part throttle stumble and idle issues...

[Ichiban]

Pictures of all this crap at the end of October. If I don't forget my fucking camera.

Gonna try and get it running better, I think a restriction in the return line might be causing rich mixture at idle/part throttle.

[AccordB20A]

correct my crx may have this problem too lol

[Ichiban]

So some pictures finally of said engine swap....

[A18A]

having the alternator up front looks pretty cool

[Ichiban]

Yeah it wouldn't fit in the back.

[AccordB20A]

mean now for some video please i wanna se how fast this fulla is

also get rid of that black box!

[2ndGenGuy]

Fuck yes! That engine just looks so natural in there. Should have come that way from the factory!

[Ichiban]

It needs to run moar better. Alls the black box does now is hold the MAP sensor up.

[2ndGenGuy]

Your problem is perplexing. Maybe it's a timing issue? The flywheel have the proper timing marks on it? Isn't it an A20 flywheel or some shit? Wonder what the difference in base timing is between A20 and B20A...

[Ichiban]

yeah A20 flywheel. I had set the timing initially with the B20A flywheel, but to the wrong mark. It was shit covered so I couldn't see the right ones. Ended up setting it to the A20 f/w.

[2ndGenGuy]

Did you try advancing or retarding it just for shits and giggles?

[Ichiban]

Sure did. Funny noises resulted.

[Ichiban]

I wonder if the advance/retard in side of the distributor is pooched. I'm gonna replace it with a B20A5 dizie anyways. Also, I wonder if I got the right igniter unit as well? Would it make a difference other than not running? NZ ppl post a pic of yer igniter bocks.

[AccordB20A]

theres no such thing as an advance/retard part in them dizzys, it just tells the ecu when the engines at certain angles and the ecu looks at its map and the vacuum/tps and says lets advance/retard the timing. even tho the engine runs fine their could still be a fuckup somewhere tho eg a dizzy sensor or cam sensor etc, Maybe you should run it on a 1g teg dizzy and cam sensor and rule out ignition being the reason its doing a weird running thing?