true, they will get pretty dirty since its a daily driver. i'm not going to be able to get an SE-i proportioning valve. for the time being, will the carbed one be ok? i know its not going to be as great as one for all disks, but should that work until i find one? i really just want to put everything on now, but maybe i should wait till i get some more parts.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
*Weber 32/36*Pacesetter Header*2.25 in. Cat Back exhaust*SE-i rear disk brakes
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
well i would just get something that send a lil more presure to the back since you still have smaller rotors in front. unless you upgrade your whole brake system but then that means you wont be able to run 13 inch rims.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
ah, so this will work alright with the original MC and P valve? and yeah, i was wanting to keep the 86-87 front brakes so i can still run 13's. i'm not really willing to change the fronts because of that. i have 2 nice sets of 13s, one set which i'm working on getting refinished.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
well, it took me about an hour to remove a complete swap today in the jy. and if you have someone helping you, it shouldn't be much longer than 2 hours to take everything off and put it on again.
well then, get some of those 2x piston brakes for the front to balance things outOriginally Posted by HondaBoy
we should have an exclusive all disk brake club. haha. so you decided to get rear disks too eh? honestly, i really dont like having someone work with me. being that most times its usually someone that doesnt really know how to do things and that annoys the hell out of me. i'd rather work by myself, even though a buddy would make things go along faster. i had better remember to go pick up my jack stands that are holding up my datsun parts car. those will be quite useful and make it nice and roomy under the car so i can get in there with a creeper.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
lol...yeah took me 3 hours cuz i also changed out my sturts and i put in my rear sway bar.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
i was always going to get some. but now that i finally got some and seeing how heavy they were, they would've definitely been a job to get them shipped. that's what's usually prevented me in the past. i'd end up paying just as much or more for them to be shipped as i pay the seller for them to begin with.
just to get some clarification what are the part #'s for the master cycl. for the 86-87 vs the 88-89?
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
how much did the jy charge you?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
$233.22
man you should of gone when they have 50% off sales...
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
i paid 121
yeah but you didnt get alot of the stuff just the hub...no e-brake cables...i paid around that too but with all the stuff....it just bolted in...i just changed my rotors and pads cuz i wanted to.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
yeah, that's not til next weekend (feb 3). no guarantee that the car will still be there. and this is the first time i've ever seen an se-i in the jy. but yeah, when i was buying it, the girl at the window was asking if i wanted a warranty or if i wanted them to check and be sure it'll fit and stuff. i told her it was fine, no need.
over here is the fed 17th weekend but im going to a weading...so no junkyard run for me.
we have total of 9 local junkyards.....i really wish i could hit all of them. 3 are close together so i go to thoes ones since they are kinda big.....it was like a 110 mile trip....
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I would at least wait for till you can afford to buy ball joint. Since you have an extra set of UCA then all you have to do is buy new ball joints. I did this and replaced the ball join in my driveway. I used the curb to hammer the old one out (you must remove the snap ring), then hammered the new ones in. Took about 30 min total. Would be a shame to upgrade your rear suspension then loose it all to a broken ball joint.
you are talking about lower and upper ball joints? since mine wont taken out they didnt have any play.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
the rear only has upper ball joint, and mine had no play but I took them apart and they were definitely ready to go.
man more money....dont you love our cars...il look into geting some balljoints.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
heh. there's quite a few close to me. pick-a-part is like 8 miles, ecology is 2 miles, and there's another ecology like 8 miles from my house. and others i don't even know where they are that are within 10 miles. i've only been to the p-a-p and the close ecology.
ya know, now i'm thinking just replace the ball joints. i've priced them, and they wont be too much. i know the front ones are going to be needing replacement. so i'm thinking i might want to do this in my classes at school so i can take advantage of the tools. plus i can do a 4 wheel alignment after doing so. now, do i really have to replace the A arm or what because i found an upper ball joint listed for my accord.
Keep it HONDA. Or at least Asian.™
B18C swap ditched, A20 to be revived
Looking for K20/trans for ultimate swap
the rear balljoints are fine last I checked(this set is off the 4-door that got stolen)like I said dont worry about the Porportioning valve,I dont care what anyone says I went through all 3-there was never a differnce in pedal feel-you should however replace the master cylinder assembly with the 88-89 because the resivior is larger then the 86-87 models and i would defintly look into some techna-fit stainless lines,there quailty is top notch( http://www.techna-fit.com/ )
but its looking good man I hope you enjoy them!
Replacing the A arm is only for the people willing to spend the extra cash, so they don't have to remove the ball joint from ther old one. I went to the Junk yard and bought a set of control arms for $10.00 then remove/installed a new set of balljoint into them. Cost me $20 or so and I have new ball joints. As for the front lower I paid to have them pressed in/out, but if I had the option again I would do it myself.
excuse me for being a bogan aussie, but over here every accord has rear discs..... or am i missing out on something, se-i discs better than the s-i???
im quite confused
fraza
dont worry mate, that'll buff right out
Our LX, DX, and LX-i's all come with rear drums, and the SE-i is the only model that comes with rear disk here in the USA. Our SE-i is close to your SI model.
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