How many miles on the clutch? Its possible the throw out bearing was installed incorrectly or the spring broke.Originally Posted by labeledsk8r
How many miles on the clutch? Its possible the throw out bearing was installed incorrectly or the spring broke.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
if the clutch is brand new good chance the spring broke in there. loosen the tension on the clutch cable,pull it off of the bell housing, then try to move the clutch arm back and forth. if it feels strange it's probably the retaining spring.
Do you know anyone with the premium AAA? I do have a place we can work on it, and I'm more than willing to offer my assistance with the labor and parts. The only catch is that it would have to be over a weekend, and I know you work weekends. You're even welcome to stay overnight if we can't get the car going in one day.
the clutch has over 4,000 miles on it by now...but there were some problems when putting it in but it had to do with the flywheel..
and i dunno about the AAA my GF has AAA but i dunno if its a premium package.. theres alot of problems with takeing it out there... 1 i have no way to get to your place becuse my GF is normaly working when im off thus i cant take her civic.. 2 i never get 2 days off in a row... 3 i have no money to spend at all on it...and i mean none
the thing is im not motivated to work on this car anymore...the list of things it needs just to make it somewhat safe is just to much
and lost i have no place to even check anything cant even jack the car up really...
I REALLY REALLY want to just park the damn thing and get another car and mayby come back to the accord in a month or 2 i have to much else going on in my life to deal with this car
then thats what you gotta do mayne! good luck
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
I wish I could offer to store it. I have the limit of inoperable cars both here and at my parents' house.
Have you given any thought to buying something so cheap that you don't care if it breaks down? I drove my last 3gee like 15,000 miles and only payed $500 for it. Very few repairs, but I kept track of what was about to fall apart. Right now, it needs a lot of work to be road worthy again, but hey, $500 bought me a lot of miles.
im working on a place to store it... im just scared of mice or rats getting in while its parked...
i really dont want to get a car that might break down at any time... i need something reliable.. not to mention i dont even have 500 to dump on a car
well i have had no luck today getting into another car with payments... problem im haveing is this happend out of the blue so i have no money down and need low payments... blah
in need of money i most likely will be listing my NEW GE adjusable cam gear, it was bought durring the last group buy, its black... dunno on a price yet but its gonna be listed since i need some spair cash so keep a look out if your needing one
If your credit is ok try to get a loan at Florida credit union. There APR's are lower than the vast majority of banks. One time i got a $3000 loan for $144/mo with nothing as collateral. It's also easier to get a loan there if your credit isn't great.
thats actully my bank that i do my checking with... i have one problem with that.. i have NO credit history i allways pay cash for my items, i dont like oweing money on things os i make sure i have the money before i buy them... i have tried getting into a newer car but i need a co-signer... i even was looking at motorcycles but i would still need a co-signer
my options are now...
1. barrow 500 bucks and try to fix everytihng rong with the car with that and bum rides to work till its done...
2. find a co-signer and get into a newer car or a motorcycle and park the accord for a few months
3. get a moped and park the accord for a few months (LOL)
3
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
2
get a motorcycle
great mileage and so much fun
My opinion is that option 2 is best. Gives you transportation while the 3gee is down, and is cheaper to operate.
what if i did number 1? my only problem is finding a place to rebuild it... i dunno i dont think ima find a co-signer
i also forgot option 4. wich is to get a bike or car (if i can get a damn co-signer) and then sell the accord and look into a new project car that ISNT a 3gee.. i know it seems dumb but this is my second accord.. mayby i should try something else with more aftermarket...i like the accord for being difrent but its so damn hard to get them fast... a 240 or sometihng is nice cheep fun
honestly man i gotta tell you do what you feel is best
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
thats the problem every way i look at it theres a catch... if i sell the accord and get the motorcycle i HAVE to have a co-signer... if i barrow the 500 from a buddy theres a chance it wont be enough to cover the problem and fix it... the reason i say bike is becuse its much cheeper to keep running then a car right now.. and saveing money is sometihng i really gotta do
The cheapest thing you can do is keep the 3gee and fix what it needs as it needs it. Keep it off the highway as much as possible, trying to only keep it in town. Take a whole day, if needed, and write down EVERYTHING the car will need in the next 25,000 miles. Try to make an educated decision on whether it's worth putting that much money into, or if a newer (and honestly more reliable) car would be a better option.
I know you mention the 240SX. I can attest to the drivetrain in that car as being really reliable. I have the same engine and a variation of that transmission in my truck that's towed a trailer for about 50% of its miles. The only thing my truck needs is tune-up stuff from sitting, a timing chain (the tensioners go out and wear the chain; if you're buying a 240, make sure this has been done, or use that as negotiating room), and a bed.
If I had the cash laying around, I'd buy the 3gee from you so you could buy something else. I have no problem with fixing what it needs, and understand that it has problems. I just don't have more than a few bucks to spare right now with the wedding and all.
In the end, it's just a car. Don't let us talk you into keeping a car you don't think will last. It's your money, not ours.
yea why don't you save enough money to get it transported over to vanilla skys place and he could help you get it roadworthy. if you look enough maby you could find a parts car with a blown engine or something and use it for the suspension parts and such. if you could get the bearings and ball joints, i would rebuild these spindles i've got for you . just swap them out for yours so i have spare wishbones. it's really easy to swap an entire wishbone out.
1 i dont think he really wants the car sitting there, 2 i dont exactly have the time to work on such problems 3, i dont have enough money to pay for the parts.. thus why im trying to get into payments on something... 4 im just sick of problems and want something to be reliable...i have had nothing but problems from this car since the day i got it i mean i would rather put 500 down on a bike and pay around 150 a month then try putting 500 into the car and hopeing it runs
im literly at wits end and am getitng truely pissed off becuse i cant get anything to work out
well i hope something works out for you.
Yeah, I can't really store the car, but I'll let you pay me back for the trans. You'd still have to buy any fluids and stuff, and I know consumables can hit $100 to change a trans, but I'd let you pay me back.
I do think that $500 down and $150-$200 a month is better than $150-$200 a month in repairs in your case. If you had a place to work on it, that's one thing. If you're working in the dirt with very limited tools, then payments are a better option.
If you don't need a back seat, I've gotta say that a Miata is a good option, too. A $1500 is easy to find in this area, and almost anyone can get a personal loan for $1500 if they are willing to use a car as collateral. Going with a Miata puts you with a larger aftermarket than with the 240, and fewer people drift (and crash) them, so it doesn't artificially inflate the value.
my only problem is this every option of mine is flawed, if i keep the accord i have a list of parts that really all should be done, trans problem fixed, all suspention bushings and ball joints, window motor and actuator, seatbelt electrical problem worked out, oil leaks, power stearing rack replaced... that stuff can easly go over a grand right there..
getting the motorcycle means i have a smaller loan (but still have to find a damn co-signer) but i still need to get money for the rideing class and a down payment
getting a car is the same but i have to pay more for longer just wont need the money for the rideing class lol
and really i dunno about gettinga miata.. i dont really consider them manly cars lol.. no offence.. every option i have i can see failing
lol
www.grassrootsmotorsports.com
or google for "spec miata"
not manley cars? they are one of the most road raced cars in the united states. check the scca stats. they are a modern version of the brittish roadster. if you think thewy are wimpy get one,then do the turbo or supercharger swap later, all parts are available aftermarket for it easy. they become a beast with the conversion.
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