FTW!!! and that car sounds/runs smoother then mine and its 10 years older :O
FTW!!! and that car sounds/runs smoother then mine and its 10 years older :O
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Awesome work there.
- llia
i'll have to check htis out on my phone right now and report back my findings
dead white and blue
well shit if that doesn't make me REALLY jealous. Damn you John. ...and congrats on the install and getting it running.
-Mark D.
watched it, looks good.
dead white and blue
Hey man, congrats on getting it running.. didn't take too much time! The little beast sounds great too, now comes the tuning part?
Thanks guys! Yeah, after I redo all the wiring, and make a mounting bracket for the coil packs, then I'll take it for a spin and give it a tune. I might install the hard rev limiter first though since it will require me to rewire the coil power back to the MegaJolt unit.
you should re-wire that MJLJ into a USPS box and ship it my way.
-Mark D.
lol
dead white and blue
Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
Well the tach out on the EDIS does run my tachometer just fine. I used a little starting fluid and the car fired right up!!But it won't fire the fuel pump.
I'm going to just bypass the relay for now, since I can't get any diodes tonight. Do you have a picture by chance of how you set up those diodes? Did you put them on a little board in a box or just heat shrink around the diode and put them inline with the wire?
You can put them on a board but it's kinda overkill. I just soldered the diodes together directly will some wire pigtails to connect to the rest of the wiring. Add lots of heat shrink to make sure nothing shorts out and you're good.
Now comes the fun part of figuring out a good timing map. Best way to do that is on a brake dyno, but that will cost some money. I could probably reverse engineer a timing map from the stock distributor if I had one to play with. But then that would only get you to stock, not necessarily the best in terms of power.
C|
Yeah the timing map is going to be the fun part. I sorta understand how to do the timing under load, advance it until I ping and back it off a few degrees. But what about idle and cruise? Do I still want it advanced as much as possible? I was playing with the idle timing last night, and it seemed smooth anywhere from 14 up to like 20 degrees. I didn't really take it any higher than that, as I just was trying to figure out the operation. But do I want to advance idle up like that as well? Or just go with where it runs best? Sorta like running it by ear? The local shop here will rent out an hour of dyno time for $80 with a sniffer and let me use it as I please. So I can do as much street testing as I can and then hit the dyno and try to squeeze out a bit more.
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 11-30-2009 at 04:43 PM.
That's the coolest thing I've ever seen.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
So awesome John! Your engine sounds sooooo good.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
as for the tuning it's really difficult to explain how to street tune, i know a guy that does them really well, obviously better with a dyno, but if you have access to the dyno i'd just work out a map while on it, for 80 bucks it's worth the money in my opinion.
dead white and blue
+1 - its easier to see the tq on a load bareing dyno than by seat of the pants. Get the idle really good then tune WOT after that work on part throttle and cruise.
I tune my idle for best "tip in" throttle response. on a complete efi engine. For a carb i add timeing until it gets hard to crank when the engine is hot, then i back off ~3 degrees. Your mileage may very, and alot of tuners will tune things differently.
here is a link that should help you with your spark tune -http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Tuning_Manual.htm#sparkmap
P.S. congrats on your car and running with out a dizzy.
Last edited by Importordomestic; 12-01-2009 at 02:26 PM.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
That is epic win sir (y)
^^ +9
lol +9 ftw! hahaha
dead white and blue
The advance 'till it pings and back off strategy works for some engines but not so much for others. Really the best way is to advance until maximum torque, and then stop. Or stop before then if it starts pinging, but that won't happen unless you have higher compression or REALLY crappy fuel.
I would imagine this engine is similar to the A20 in that it will like lots of advance (because of the not very optimal combustion chamber). Here's a map that pretty close to what I'm running at the moment:
This is sort of a hybrid between an A18 distributor vs. a P75 ECU. The heavy advance between 1500 and 2000RPM makes for really zippy throttle response. Before you start tweaking the timing do make sure that the timing you set in the map matches what the engine is actually doing. If it's off then you can either adjust the sensor mounting location or just include an offset in the map to compensate.
C|
DAMN....John congrats and your ass just came along way from you first joined. YOU gave alot of openings for the 1gees and the guy that did it all was you. COngrats once again and very great work buddy
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
+10 It sounds so nice man full of win^^ +9
You sir, needs help+10 It sounds so nice man full of win
what did he just say LOL
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Says the guy who cleans hidden parts :pYou sir, needs help
noticing pointless details on the mac and confusing Rendon ftw!
Back to the topic :p this is full of win
lol ^ don't make him too confused he'll go ghetto on your ass!
dead white and blue
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