Cooling fan resistance?

[hondaaccorddrew]

you should have another ground from the valve cover to the front of the car, close to the radiator. I added another ground from the valve cover to where the driver's side engine mount is located (there are a couple of threaded holes there that may be used)

Yea. I have the one from the cover to the body bolt by the radiator. I will add one to the drivers side mount. Thanks very much. Hope it gets rid of some of my resistance.

[Dr_Snooz]

Also, Optima's (and other AGM or Gel batteries) will not, and cannot sulfate. They degrade over time, but sulfation is caused by the oxidation of the lead plates in a battery, which can't happen in Gel batteries because the electrolyte level can never drop.

I'm not an expert on batteries really, so I'm open to learning more. My car sat for a couple months with a fairly new red top Optima (~2 yrs). I tried to start it regularly to keep everything ship shape, but you know how that goes. Several times when I came to start the car, the battery was stone dead. When I began driving the car again, I had a low voltage situation and a battery that charged slowly and died quickly. I replaced the battery and all was well. The only term I know for that kind of behavior is sulfation, but like I say, there's a lot I don't know about batteries.

[hondaaccorddrew]

I'm not an expert on batteries really, so I'm open to learning more. My car sat for a couple months with a fairly new red top Optima (~2 yrs). I tried to start it regularly to keep everything ship shape, but you know how that goes. Several times when I came to start the car, the battery was stone dead. When I began driving the car again, I had a low voltage situation and a battery that charged slowly and died quickly. I replaced the battery and all was well. The only term I know for that kind of behavior is sulfation, but like I say, there's a lot I don't know about batteries.

Yes. Same here. I even went to electronics class and got a degree in it. I am not a know it all. I wish I could say I did. It'd be easier that way.

[2drSE-i]

How new is your optima? As much as I hate to say it, after Optima was bought by Johnson controls and moved to mexico, they are one of the worst AGM batteries you can buy.

AGM batteries degrade as well in a low voltage situation (car batteries lose can lose up to 10% of their charge per month, meaning a good charged battery (12.8V) can drop to 10.2V in two months. 10% is VERY unlikely in a newer battery, but once it's dropped below 12v (1.2V per cell) degradation happens quickly. Battery tenders are your friends!

[lostforawhile]

99% of the time, the batteries in RVs (and boats for that matter) are dual purpose, starting/deep cycle batteries. Unless he is using a true deep cycle (IE golfcart or electric motor battery) it will be fine. As for sulfation, if it is truly sulfated, there is no getting it back. These "De-sulfators" do nothing but use ultrasound to vibrate off some of the sulfation, and all that does is knock it into the electrolyte. You'll gain some amperage back, but really not enough to make much of a difference. The only true solution to sulfation is to maintain the battery and not allow it to happen.

Also, Optima's (and other AGM or Gel batteries) will not, and cannot sulfate. They degrade over time, but sulfation is caused by the oxidation of the lead plates in a battery, which can't happen in Gel batteries because the electrolyte level can never drop.

EDIT:

I can get into proper maintenance of batteries if requested. I've become a bit of an expert in the field LOL

optima batteries are not true AGM batteries, they use water acid,vs the gel in real AGM types, Optimas are well know to sulfate ,the level does not have to be low, as well as have a lot of other issues, other then batteries such as the odyssey, there are no true water/acid dual use batteries, a starting battery is designed to flow a lot of current quickly and be able to be charged back up quickly by the alternator, a deep cycle is designed for a continuous amp draw over time and requires a low amp recharge over hours, with a wet cell design you can't make them both do the same thing well, despite the hype from optima. It's interesting they claim they are dual purpose yet they sell a starting battery and a deep cycle battery. The fact is a deep cycle battery is not designed for use in a cars charging system, you need a starting battery. for a tip, if you have a separate deep cycle for a stereo etc, you can often remove the ac transformer and bridge rectifier from one of those electronic battery chargers,then run it in line between the alternator and a deep cycle, just make sure it's set to deep cycle. You use a meter to find out which is positive and negative on the output side of the bridge rectifier,mark them, then remove the transformer and rectifier and hook a positive and negative wire to the terminals

[2drSE-i]

Your close Tim.

AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries, such as Optima and most powersport batteries are filled with acid either at the factory or in a store. The acid is added, and as the name suggests, is absorbed into an almost fiberglass like "Mat" if you will. They won't sulfate, but they do degrade. It's just a natural breakdown of the lead plates (or spiral wound cord, like in Optimas), but it's not sulfation. True Gel batteries are similar to these in design, but the gel starts out as gel (If that makes any sense...)

[hondaaccorddrew]

optima batteries are not true AGM batteries, they use water acid,vs the gel in real AGM types, Optimas are well know to sulfate ,the level does not have to be low, as well as have a lot of other issues, other then batteries such as the odyssey, there are no true water/acid dual use batteries, a starting battery is designed to flow a lot of current quickly and be able to be charged back up quickly by the alternator, a deep cycle is designed for a continuous amp draw over time and requires a low amp recharge over hours, with a wet cell design you can't make them both do the same thing well, despite the hype from optima. It's interesting they claim they are dual purpose yet they sell a starting battery and a deep cycle battery. The fact is a deep cycle battery is not designed for use in a cars charging system, you need a starting battery. for a tip, if you have a separate deep cycle for a stereo etc, you can often remove the ac transformer and bridge rectifier from one of those electronic battery chargers,then run it in line between the alternator and a deep cycle, just make sure it's set to deep cycle. You use a meter to find out which is positive and negative on the output side of the bridge rectifier,mark them, then remove the transformer and rectifier and hook a positive and negative wire to the terminals

Sounds like a plan. I won't be running a powerhouse in my car. So I will just get a real car battery. Is these anything wrong with how I have done my new wiring?

[Oldblueaccord]

optima batteries are not true AGM batteries, they use water acid,vs the gel in real AGM types, Optimas are well know to sulfate ,the level does not have to be low, as well as have a lot of other issues, other then batteries such as the odyssey, there are no true water/acid dual use batteries, a starting battery is designed to flow a lot of current quickly and be able to be charged back up quickly by the alternator, a deep cycle is designed for a continuous amp draw over time and requires a low amp recharge over hours, with a wet cell design you can't make them both do the same thing well, despite the hype from optima. It's interesting they claim they are dual purpose yet they sell a starting battery and a deep cycle battery. The fact is a deep cycle battery is not designed for use in a cars charging system, you need a starting battery. for a tip, if you have a separate deep cycle for a stereo etc, you can often remove the ac transformer and bridge rectifier from one of those electronic battery chargers,then run it in line between the alternator and a deep cycle, just make sure it's set to deep cycle. You use a meter to find out which is positive and negative on the output side of the bridge rectifier,mark them, then remove the transformer and rectifier and hook a positive and negative wire to the terminals

Best thing for you to do is contact Optima and show them your credentials and tell them your theory.

I just amaze myself how I can get to back and forth to work daily with an Optima battery, a R12 converted to R134a AC system and 30% Ethanol in my car.


wp

[Oldblueaccord]

99% of the time, the batteries in RVs (and boats for that matter) are dual purpose, starting/deep cycle batteries. Unless he is using a true deep cycle (IE golfcart or electric motor battery) it will be fine. As for sulfation, if it is truly sulfated, there is no getting it back. These "De-sulfators" do nothing but use ultrasound to vibrate off some of the sulfation, and all that does is knock it into the electrolyte. You'll gain some amperage back, but really not enough to make much of a difference. The only true solution to sulfation is to maintain the battery and not allow it to happen.

Also, Optima's (and other AGM or Gel batteries) will not, and cannot sulfate. They degrade over time, but sulfation is caused by the oxidation of the lead plates in a battery, which can't happen in Gel batteries because the electrolyte level can never drop.

EDIT:

I can get into proper maintenance of batteries if requested. I've become a bit of an expert in the field LOL

I found this Hot Rod article pretty easy to understand.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g...y/viewall.html


wp

[hondaaccorddrew]

Best thing for you to do is contact Optima and show them your credentials and tell them your theory.

I just amaze myself how I can get to back and forth to work daily with an Optima battery, a R12 converted to R134a AC system and 30% Ethanol in my car.


wp

You have a 134a conversion on your car? I know I have the NipponDenso compressor, so it can tolerate it. But how well does it actually cool down? I have hesitated cause I do not wanna lose cooling capacity, but R-12 is EXPENSIVE!. Oh, and I will just stay away from Optimas, yes? They're too expensive and apparently suck now.

[lostforawhile]

Best thing for you to do is contact Optima and show them your credentials and tell them your theory.

I just amaze myself how I can get to back and forth to work daily with an Optima battery, a R12 converted to R134a AC system and 30% Ethanol in my car.


wp

you are lucky, there are thousands including myself who will never again buy one of those pos batteries, I've done my homework, when production shifted south of the border quality went with it, an optima rep started a thread on the hamb to ask about quality, and the complaints were so overwhelming the thread had to be closed

[lostforawhile]

Your close Tim.

AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries, such as Optima and most powersport batteries are filled with acid either at the factory or in a store. The acid is added, and as the name suggests, is absorbed into an almost fiberglass like "Mat" if you will. They won't sulfate, but they do degrade. It's just a natural breakdown of the lead plates (or spiral wound cord, like in Optimas), but it's not sulfation. True Gel batteries are similar to these in design, but the gel starts out as gel (If that makes any sense...)

The odyssey and other dry cell batteries are installed into the case under compression,they are factory sealed and will be ruined if opened
.I've seen the demonstration where the odyssey is cut open and doesn't leak

[lostforawhile]

Best thing for you to do is contact Optima and show them your credentials and tell them your theory.

I just amaze myself how I can get to back and forth to work daily with an Optima battery, a R12 converted to R134a AC system and 30% Ethanol in my car.


wp

here's a couple of great threads for you from the hamb, these guys are serious about their cars,and most will never buy another optima, a lot of them bought the old ones, thought they were great, then discovered the new ones are crap, the quality hasn't gotten any better since this, just another formerly great product moved across the border and now built with sub standard manufacturing and no quality control, I had one myself, replaced it four times under warranty, I ended up turning it in for a core charge on a walmart battery, which actually lasted. And walmart batteries usually suck. I put my money where my mouth is, I have an odyssey pc 625 behind the passenger seat, it sat for a year without being charged, then it cranked the Lincoln right up

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=410932

[Oldblueaccord]

You have a 134a conversion on your car? I know I have the NipponDenso compressor, so it can tolerate it. But how well does it actually cool down? I have hesitated cause I do not wanna lose cooling capacity, but R-12 is EXPENSIVE!. Oh, and I will just stay away from Optimas, yes? They're too expensive and apparently suck now.

Ah that's one of my favorite stories the old green goo purple jelly story. I bought the car with the air broken in 1994. I did some research about converting and did it 1995. When I went to Pep boys to get some parts they explain to me that if I did this my AC system would make, and I shit you not " green goo or purple jelly" . I get a laugh about it when I get into internet debates. Some stuff you just have to try for yourself no matter what the "experts" say.

For me a junkyard 100$ compressor and original parts it works great. I put a can in it otw to work last week and run it on the 1-2 fan setting. So what 15 years I been pretty happy.


EDIT

http://www.ueitest.com/products/clamp-meter/dl49

this is the meter I use alot. its way out of date for work but I think it was like 100$ new. I just buy new fluke leads for it every year. Amazon has em for 85$

wp

[lostforawhile]

Ah that's one of my favorite stories the old green goo purple jelly story. I bought the car with the air broken in 1994. I did some research about converting and did it 1995. When I went to Pep boys to get some parts they explain to me that if I did this my AC system would make, and I shit you not " green goo or purple jelly" . I get a laugh about it when I get into internet debates. Some stuff you just have to try for yourself no matter what the "experts" say.

For me a junkyard 100$ compressor and original parts it works great. I put a can in it otw to work last week and run it on the 1-2 fan setting. So what 15 years I been pretty happy.

wp

I think what they are referring to is the two oils being incompatible, you are supped to flush the system and replace the receiver dryer, well you should do that anyway once it's opened, then fill the system with the correct amount of new oil for the 134, you can tip the compressor on it's side and drain most of the old oil out, the small amount left won't hurt anything. The main issue is the Keihin compressor isn't very good with 134, it damages the main compressor seal or something, the Keihin one wasn't much good anyway

[Dr_Snooz]

You know, it used to be you bought a battery and that was it. It worked for a good long while and when it needed to be replaced, it was cheap.Then we got smart and invented AGM batteries. They were the coolest and most awesomest thing you ever saw. They were so vastly superior to the old wet cell batteries and if you didn't get one, you would die from shame. So I bought one. But it sucks and I'm constantly swapping it on warranty. So now the gel cell is the newest and most awesomest and best ever don't-even-bother-talking-to-me-until-you-run-out-and-buy-one thing in the whole, wide world. But it's super temperamental about charging and overcharging or whatever. I certainly can't use my old charger on it. I have to buy a new and special charger that's twice the price of the old style chargers. And as sure as I buy one, I'll learn all the reasons why the whole setup is in fact much worse than the old batteries and chargers I used to buy.

I'm so done with this. Why is it that everything new and cool is inevitably worse than my old and boring stuff? Why is every new cell phone I get more confusing and less capable but bursting at the seams with useless crap I'll never use than the one I just gave up? I was supposed to replace all my incandescent bulbs years ago with CF bulbs. They're good for the environment. But they bathe everything in a sickly green light and cost four times as much. Oh, and they're filled with mercury which is great for the environment. But now there's something even BETTER!!! I'm supposed to run out and replace all my CF bulbs with LEDs!!! They're so good they cost 10x as much. And they last FOREVER! Well, not really forever, but a long time. And light output degrades almost from day one. But that's okay, because I'm too busy buying hybrid cars now to worry about my terrible light bulb options. Those things are going to save the planet. Except that they still use gas. And every toxic chemical that a normal car requires and at the same intervals. And roll off the same carbon polluting assembly lines. But there's a lot MORE battery chemicals in them. Yay! That's the big environmental plus there and for that you get to spend 50% more to buy the car. When I replumbed Mom's house, PEX was the new and cool gotta-have plumbing option. It's so wonderful that every glass of water still tastes like plastic and poisonous chemicals over two years later.

Every single day, I buy new stuff that is billed as being so vastly superior to the stuff I bought the day before. Unfortunately, I can't verify that because it breaks before I get it out of the box. Sometimes it's broken in the box. And if it makes it out of the box, it is sure to break during the first week of use.

Is our society really incapable of producing anything of lasting value anymore? We used to mock the USSR because they couldn't build anything good. We can't either. We build the same trash but a million times more and a million times faster and we have a vast marketing and propaganda machine keeping us convinced that our trash is so very wonderful. I guess that makes us superior.

I can't believe people still fall for this, but I have friends still call me all excited about their new iPod (that is known to konk out after 3 yrs and have terrible sound quality), or their new iPhone (which breaks the first time you drop it), or their new iPad (which costs as much as a laptop but comes without a keyboard) or their new, shiny, whizbang whatever who cares.

Forgive me, but I am now a loyal, old, boring, stick-in-the-mud buyer. Keep your new and cool and give me the old stuff that I know works. I'll be buying boring batteries from boring stores with counters full of boring, old men who know what I'm talking about when I ask for a battery that works.


Edit: sorry guys, that Optima thread on HAMB sent me over the edge tonight.

[lostforawhile]

snooze,what kind of battery did you get that keeps failing? I got the odyssey because it doesn't out gas,doesn't spill, weighs 20 pounds lighter then the one I took out, holds it's charge when disconnected, and doesn't die because it ran down a couple of times, if your electrical system is good they can last ten years easy, you need a special charger if you run it all the way down, it will charge but not 100 percent, I found one for aircraft that works for it and they are under 80 bucks, it will charge my other batteries too of course, It's got so many advantages I will never go back to an old style battery. The main issue with them is the correct charger if needed, and you need to trickle charge them if there is a load such as a radio memory or alarm memory, but that's only for a long term drain

[2drSE-i]

Lol snooz. you can use the same charger for Agms, gel or wet batteries, gel isn't necessarily better, CFLs can be bought in soft white, bright white and daylight, only have enough mercury to cover the tip of a ballpoint pen, and use about 20% as much energy. LEDs have no harmful gases, use 15% as much energy, and don't have to warm up, are dimmable, etc. It has become environmentally irresponsible to use 60 watts for 600 lumens, when you can get the same light output from 8. A single CFL (60 watt equ.) will pay for itself in energy savings (on a 3 hr per day average) in 3 months. including the 50 cents a regular 60 watt bulb would cost.

[hondaaccorddrew]

You know, it used to be you bought a battery and that was it. It worked for a good long while and when it needed to be replaced, it was cheap.Then we got smart and invented AGM batteries. They were the coolest and most awesomest thing you ever saw. They were so vastly superior to the old wet cell batteries and if you didn't get one, you would die from shame. So I bought one. But it sucks and I'm constantly swapping it on warranty. So now the gel cell is the newest and most awesomest and best ever don't-even-bother-talking-to-me-until-you-run-out-and-buy-one thing in the whole, wide world. But it's super temperamental about charging and overcharging or whatever. I certainly can't use my old charger on it. I have to buy a new and special charger that's twice the price of the old style chargers. And as sure as I buy one, I'll learn all the reasons why the whole setup is in fact much worse than the old batteries and chargers I used to buy.

I'm so done with this. Why is it that everything new and cool is inevitably worse than my old and boring stuff? Why is every new cell phone I get more confusing and less capable but bursting at the seams with useless crap I'll never use than the one I just gave up? I was supposed to replace all my incandescent bulbs years ago with CF bulbs. They're good for the environment. But they bathe everything in a sickly green light and cost four times as much. Oh, and they're filled with mercury which is great for the environment. But now there's something even BETTER!!! I'm supposed to run out and replace all my CF bulbs with LEDs!!! They're so good they cost 10x as much. And they last FOREVER! Well, not really forever, but a long time. And light output degrades almost from day one. But that's okay, because I'm too busy buying hybrid cars now to worry about my terrible light bulb options. Those things are going to save the planet. Except that they still use gas. And every toxic chemical that a normal car requires and at the same intervals. And roll off the same carbon polluting assembly lines. But there's a lot MORE battery chemicals in them. Yay! That's the big environmental plus there and for that you get to spend 50% more to buy the car. When I replumbed Mom's house, PEX was the new and cool gotta-have plumbing option. It's so wonderful that every glass of water still tastes like plastic and poisonous chemicals over two years later.

Every single day, I buy new stuff that is billed as being so vastly superior to the stuff I bought the day before. Unfortunately, I can't verify that because it breaks before I get it out of the box. Sometimes it's broken in the box. And if it makes it out of the box, it is sure to break during the first week of use.

Is our society really incapable of producing anything of lasting value anymore? We used to mock the USSR because they couldn't build anything good. We can't either. We build the same trash but a million times more and a million times faster and we have a vast marketing and propaganda machine keeping us convinced that our trash is so very wonderful. I guess that makes us superior.

I can't believe people still fall for this, but I have friends still call me all excited about their new iPod (that is known to konk out after 3 yrs and have terrible sound quality), or their new iPhone (which breaks the first time you drop it), or their new iPad (which costs as much as a laptop but comes without a keyboard) or their new, shiny, whizbang whatever who cares.

Forgive me, but I am now a loyal, old, boring, stick-in-the-mud buyer. Keep your new and cool and give me the old stuff that I know works. I'll be buying boring batteries from boring stores with counters full of boring, old men who know what I'm talking about when I ask for a battery that works.


Edit: sorry guys, that Optima thread on HAMB sent me over the edge tonight.

Well said, my friend!!! Quality sucks! We're no better than Mexico making the Optima batteries for us. Ford and Chevy both moved to Mexico too. Things made in America aren't of quality anymore, that's why we're loving these wonderful cars from Japan. Their cars continue to be better than ours, my next car will be another Honda no doubt. I have a shiny iPhone. It works good. That means I received a mistake. Cause the ones they build 'right' go back for continuous repairs. They made them messed up so customers kept buying new ones. Nothing to do about it now, quality is gone.

[lostforawhile]

Lol snooz. you can use the same charger for Agms, gel or wet batteries, gel isn't necessarily better, CFLs can be bought in soft white, bright white and daylight, only have enough mercury to cover the tip of a ballpoint pen, and use about 20% as much energy. LEDs have no harmful gases, use 15% as much energy, and don't have to warm up, are dimmable, etc. It has become environmentally irresponsible to use 60 watts for 600 lumens, when you can get the same light output from 8. A single CFL (60 watt equ.) will pay for itself in energy savings (on a 3 hr per day average) in 3 months. including the 50 cents a regular 60 watt bulb would cost.

AGM batteries like the odyssey are voltage sensitive, if your charger puts out around 15 volts like many do, it will damage the battery, I had to do a lot of searching to find a charger that kept the voltage within a safe range. There are high dollar expensive ones made, but I was looking for one at a reasonable price, I bought and returned a lot of battery chargers after measuring the output voltage during charging, especially during maintenance charge, also to bring an AGM battery back from completely dead you need enough current, trickle chargers won't do it. I know mine requires a minimum of ten amps to come back from full discharge, that's ten amps with the voltage properly controlled

[A20A1]

When I replumbed Mom's house, PEX was the new and cool gotta-have plumbing option. It's so wonderful that every glass of water still tastes like plastic and poisonous chemicals over two years later.

I only use Copper http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1slibJ52yoc

[Oldblueaccord]

Well, I took the battery in for load testing and it showed good. The cranking and output current was within range with the stickers on the battery. 600 cranking amps. Should i still replace it?

Can they check the amp load of your car if you bring it down to them if it makes it?


Ill nose around Orilleys if I get a chance I know the advanced here they drag out some kinda load tester on a cart. But I don't know if it can test a load on a car it self I never pay attention.

Semi -Interesting story. I was gasing up a while back and when I do someone always ask me about the E-85. Guy had I would guess a 1968 pickup with the hood up. He was letting his motor cool because it wouldn't start. he had a new battery because the old ones he gotten "where all bad". The battery appeared small in size and about a 650 cranking amp capacity. I had that meter in a Klien bag I take it back and forth from work a lot since it so handy. I convinced him to let me check it when he cranked on it. 350 amps right off bat slow slow cranking. To much timing making the starter pull hard voltage drop and some bad wires floating around the cab didn't help it any his spark was real weak. I tried to explain to him about maybe a bigger battery, little less timing, and new brushes in his starter to get the amp draw down might help him. I don't think he was to convinced.


wp

[2drSE-i]

AGM batteries like the odyssey are voltage sensitive, if your charger puts out around 15 volts like many do, it will damage the battery, I had to do a lot of searching to find a charger that kept the voltage within a safe range. There are high dollar expensive ones made, but I was looking for one at a reasonable price, I bought and returned a lot of battery chargers after measuring the output voltage during charging, especially during maintenance charge, also to bring an AGM battery back from completely dead you need enough current, trickle chargers won't do it. I know mine requires a minimum of ten amps to come back from full discharge, that's ten amps with the voltage properly controlled

Odysseys are the exception. They must be charged with Odysseys charger or you void the warranty (how they tell is beyond me...)

[hondaaccorddrew]

Can they check the amp load of your car if you bring it down to them if it makes it?


Ill nose around Orilleys if I get a chance I know the advanced here they drag out some kinda load tester on a cart. But I don't know if it can test a load on a car it self I never pay attention.

Semi -Interesting story. I was gasing up a while back and when I do someone always ask me about the E-85. Guy had I would guess a 1968 pickup with the hood up. He was letting his motor cool because it wouldn't start. he had a new battery because the old ones he gotten "where all bad". The battery appeared small in size and about a 650 cranking amp capacity. I had that meter in a Klien bag I take it back and forth from work a lot since it so handy. I convinced him to let me check it when he cranked on it. 350 amps right off bat slow slow cranking. To much timing making the starter pull hard voltage drop and some bad wires floating around the cab didn't help it any his spark was real weak. I tried to explain to him about maybe a bigger battery, little less timing, and new brushes in his starter to get the amp draw down might help him. I don't think he was to convinced.


wp

They couldn't even give me the output of the battery. The meter just said it was good. It had a bunch of coils under a cover on their meter, so I assumed it ran a load test particularly when they started glowing red. Anyhow, yesterday I decided to see if it was the battery causing the load on the car. I removed the alternator from the circuit with the engine running and the load was lifed off. The car ran smoother and the alternator didn't smell anymore. As soon as I put it back on, the load came back and the alternator started heating up and the engine wasn't too happy. So, I decided one last test. I removed the fuses from anything that had to do with a computer. I kept the alternator on the circuit, and removed the battery this time. The problem went away. The car seemed to have A LOT less of a load and kept it's voltage as long as you didn't put something over 30 amps on it. IF you ran the AC and the lights, or the lights and the defroster, it would lose voltage and current. Is this a sign it cannot put out a lot of power? On the timing part with that guys truck, I think I have wrong timing too. The keys rattle in the ignition when you accelerate. I think the last time it was replaced, it was off by a tooth or something.

[hondaaccorddrew]

I think what they are referring to is the two oils being incompatible, you are supped to flush the system and replace the receiver dryer, well you should do that anyway once it's opened, then fill the system with the correct amount of new oil for the 134, you can tip the compressor on it's side and drain most of the old oil out, the small amount left won't hurt anything. The main issue is the Keihin compressor isn't very good with 134, it damages the main compressor seal or something, the Keihin one wasn't much good anyway

Yeah I would plan on doing a system flush and a new receiver/dryer. I bet anything it needs replaced already since it's 23 years old. How much oil goes in a system like this? I heard you put an ounce in each, the compressor, condenser, evaporator. Is that true or is an ounce too much?