i would like to see this to. getting sick of ps always breaking.
i would like to see this to. getting sick of ps always breaking.
I ended up buying this rack from Mike, and already have it in the car, but haven't driven on it yet. I'll let you all know how the steering feel is once I get it going.
-Mark D.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
i just unbolted the lines and everything on my 4th gen and now the rack is grinding after a couple months >< i need to do what Rendon did but need more detail on how to do it
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
mines not bad, while slightly moving, at a dead stop it's a little stiff.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost....1&postcount=29
This is all i did and never had a problem.
Thanks to Jfern once again
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Can't find the jug he's talking about,would something else do.
i'll tell him you want some detail and see what he says, haven't talked to him in a bit but i'm going to call him in the next few days and he how he's been.
to my recollection it was pretty straight forward, just had to change one of the braces on the rear subframe so that it would mount properly (ie: weld a new bracket/piece to hold the rack because of the different size) it's not a bolt in procedure if i recall. I wasn't there when he did it but i have driven the car and can say that it's a lot better than when my dad's 2g power steering pump quit working. that thing was impossible to turn, but with the 2g manual rack in the 3g it was just like driving my civic with a manual rack.
dead white and blue
I wound up extending the threaded portion of the accord tie rod ends 1" on each side. The nissan are the correct thread and length, but the stud taper is quite different. If you rebuild the rack with 84-87 civic tie rods you should get away without welding extensions as they are a little over 3/4" longer. Another good possibility might be honda fit tie rod ends, but I'm not 100% positive the threading and taper is the same...
Either way, you will need to remove the power brackets from the 3g crossmember, and weld in the 2g manual brackets. It's a lot of work, but worth the effort IMO.
I also have a bolt on plate designed to properly convert the power rack. It bolts in place of the valve body and loops, seals, and demobilizes the offset pinion holder. No cutting and teeing off lines and no slop.
Bookmarks