Haha, indeed. When the people from CT rolled up, I had my car running to keep it cool and I believe it was Steve who looked at my car and was like " A/C...fucker."Originally Posted by 2drSE-i
Haha, indeed. When the people from CT rolled up, I had my car running to keep it cool and I believe it was Steve who looked at my car and was like " A/C...fucker."
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
if its the pump that can be retro fitted to r134a or w/e its called keep it! otherwise ditch it! , i retrofitted my 4g and filled her up and been working good since October ^_^
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Speaking of A/C, now that it's spring and it's getting warm, anyone got any ideas to help me figure out why my A/C quit working? The system itself seems fine but I have an electrical problem, every time I turn on the A/C the fuse blows. Any ideas on how to go about diagnosing this?
Check the box that is bolted to the blower motor. Sits near the passenger foot well. Mine some how accumulated water in it, and it had the compressor on constantly.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
Check for open/grounded shorts, A locked compressor clutch can cause the fuse to blow as well.
Last edited by nswst8; 04-16-2010 at 07:06 AM.
Phil
I'd start by unplugging the clutch coil and checking the resistance. The wire's insulation tends to get removed by dragging on the pulley, or from vibrating against its little clamp on the compressor.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
The compressor clutch engages for like 30 seconds and runs before the fuse blows, for a while I could fix the problem by using a slightly larger fuse but now those blow as well and i'm not using anything higher than a 20 AMP, so I don't think the clutch is frozen. I'll check your other suggestions tomorrow, also, where are the grounds I should be checking for this problem?
Well, I guess it was a good thing I didn't start ripping out the A/c yet. I guess the guy who had it before me already converted it to R-134:
I guess that's my answer: Keep the A/C!
These are the R-134 fittings right??
'87 accord lx-I sedan: Koni adj, struts, Progress sport springs, ST sway bars, spec. prod. camber kits, dc strut bar, msd blaster 2 coil, ngk plugs and Ractive 9mm wires. Erebuni bodykit and Wings West trunk spoiler.
is one bigger then the other and had a red cap and blue cap? but yeah they look like r134a im pretty sure r12 had the tire valve style fittings lol. now get a can of freon with oil in it and stop leak from kmart that includes the hose and pressure gauge! ( you will probably have to jump the compressor at first since it wont kick on if its low on pressure)
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
There were no caps on them, but ya, one is bigger than the other. I'm glad I noticed it before I ripped it out. My girlfriend will be happy too.
'87 accord lx-I sedan: Koni adj, struts, Progress sport springs, ST sway bars, spec. prod. camber kits, dc strut bar, msd blaster 2 coil, ngk plugs and Ractive 9mm wires. Erebuni bodykit and Wings West trunk spoiler.
Looks like my compressor clutch is bad, but I have a keihin which means I need to convert to the Denso compressor. But there's no way I can afford $641 from Majestic! I posted in the wanted section (https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72495) looking for a cheaper solution.
true, fill up with the small one i think your know when u get the freon which to plug it in to
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Awesome. $35 beantastic walmart R134a conversion. I'd have even less faith in a non-functioning AC system with those fittings on there. Just means someone before you had a leak and decided that instead of repairing it properly they'd convert it.Well, I guess it was a good thing I didn't start ripping out the A/c yet. I guess the guy who had it before me already converted it to R-134:
I guess that's my answer: Keep the A/C!
These are the R-134 fittings right??
Last edited by LX-incredible; 04-17-2010 at 09:53 PM.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
So, I'm hearing mixed results about the A/C. Some are saying doing the conversion is not the right way to fix it, what is your idea of the right way to fix it? I mean are you against converting it to R134, or are you just against doing it without replacing the compressor and air dryer unit? I'd love to get some tint or a recharged A/C in my new DX..
I vote keep it.
A proper conversion is not the same as throwing as throwing a couple of fittings on there, venting what is left in the system, and adding oil with retrofit and stop leak additives and charging. Mineral oil will not mix with the 134a, adding to inefficiency.
I'm not against the conversion. With a complete flush, vacuum evacuation, new drier, o-rings, and a good compressor, it can provide years of service. However, it isn't as efficient as the old R12 and you're going to notice the difference in hot climates. Head pressures will be higher increasing the chance of leaks and compressor failure. R134a molecules are smaller than R12 and will leak out faster. This is why it's a good idea to replace o-rings and those stiff leaky hoses.
I have converted several vehicles years ago, all of which still have functioning AC. I don't bother with converting now as I have the required licenses and buy 30 lb cylinders of R12 for $300, which works out to $7.50 for 12 oz (about the same as a 12 oz can of R134a at the parts stores). I still go through the system and repair the leaks...
If you put the time into it and use the proper equipment, it will turn out fine.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.
I agree with Angus. Although I have seen a very few shadetree conversion they were not without their problems.
As stated the increase in head pressure alone will dramatically decrease the life of your compressor. If not "PROPERLY" maintained.
These systems are not difficult to work on. They are straight forward and simple to maintain.
I have alot of A/C work on the side right now with alot of vehicles. And it's all about maintainence.
Phil
Thank you guys for the clarification. It's starting to get hot here in Colorado and it will probably be a warm summer. I just purchased my 89 DX and the A/C blows air that is colder than the fresh air coming in from outside but not much cooler. Basically, you would recommend taking it to a pro to get it leak-tested/fixed and recharged?
Either of you guys ever used freeze12? Its supposed to be the poor mans legally obtained R12? Haven't heard much bad about it, but as the resident AC experts id love to hear your opinions.
I was beginning to wonder, since i'm too cheap to convert to the denso compressor, what all would be involved in converting back to R12? Or could I switch to something like that Freeze12 without doing any converting and just replace my current compressor with a cheap reman keihin? Any opinions?
I personally have never used freeze12 but a Army post autoshop in Texas was using it with good results in TX. Just follow the guidelines.
Personally, I would not use it just because it is to easy to obtain R12. I used R134a for 10 years with a Keihin compressor. Texas heat proved to be to much for R134a conversion. So I just took it back to R12.
Phil
Freeze12 supposedly mixes just fine with R12 and it uses the same oil. The weak point in the whole keihin system is the compressor. Which would be why most SE-i's no longer have working A/C...
Do you think Freeze12 would mix with 134a?
No, they have totally different weights and structure. Like they said above, the R134a is much smaller than the R12.
I would not mix them.
Phil
If you have a solid working accord, it makes no sense not to invest into getting the a/c working.
I personally will never go without a/c, it's to easy to get these things running.
Phil
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