anyway, the shifter is out, so I can replace the bottom dust seal, plus put in the new poly stuff. I forgot the big inner seal is torn up, so that will be another three weeks before it gets here. I think I can replace it from above. As long as the stuff that has to be installed from the bottom is done, I'm happy.
the new bushings
new dust seal, this is supposed to be the last one in the US
you can see where it's torn
This is one of the most important pieces I made as far as the shifter, this is the bushing where the shift rod attaches to the transmission, at this junction, you have a large movement of the shift arm, converted into high torque and small movements, any wear here is amplified into a sloppy shifter. I made the stepped aluminum bushing, and a steel washer fits over both ends. I reused the two plastic factory sleeves
Last edited by lostforawhile; 08-29-2010 at 12:36 AM.
I think you're going to have a very jittery feel in the shifter that way, but rock on dude.Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I've been running that piece for several years when the car was on the road and it was great, shifter was nice and tight
bushings make a difference....my car had no heatsheild so it melted them so i went to the junkyard to get one and install new bushings
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
I also have a minor slow leak from the transmission case, not bad enough to fix, but enough to coat and rot away the torque rod and shifter bushing. shift rod seal actually, I just occasionally wipe off the oil. the poly bushing and the aluminum bushing are immune to the oil rot problem.
the energy suspension kit is part number 16.1101R it's a civic kit. you can sometimes find them on ebay. the kit fits the three G perfectly and you can really see a difference between stock and these. It's a little bit of a pain to install the torque rod bushing, but once it finally snaps in, it's a nice tight fit, you use the palm of your hand to push it, then keep working the edges, and eventually it'll pop right into place,
well I was going to put it in today, but I can't find my stupid white lithium grease, I've looked everywhere,will be too broke to get anymore until the middle of next week, figures
omfg hahha when i saw this on the new post's page i thought it read "some shitter progress it's ready to go back in again" and thought to myself god damn now he is putting a toilet in his car.
naaa new shift bushings rock and make a world of diffrence, no one likes floppy shifters
I finally found the white lithium grease after tearing apart the house, now I can take the shifter apart and replace that bottom grease boot. The one on top looks like it can be pulled out from in the car, just remove the outer boot, pull it out, slide on the new one and attach the lip to the edge of the steel. I never want to pull and install this SOB again.
New dust boot on, this is very important as it keeps crud out of the shift ball area. It was a son of a bitch to get over the piece on the end. when the shifter is assembled, it sits in the hole at the bottom of the assembly, I was going to order and replace everything, but the shift ball cage is excellent, the spacers are good, the bushing at the bottom, the one with the teflon pieces over it, it looks brand new, no up and down movement of the shift ball,no slop. Since the car will be driven as a project car for fun, I doubt I'm going to wear out any of those pieces. I feel better knowing they are sealed from dirt, All I need is the inner dust boot, the big one. it goes in from the top anyway.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 08-29-2010 at 03:37 PM.
boot installed
torn up inner dust boot
I thought this post might be interesting,since most people have never seen the lower dust boot, just the remains of it
yea you might say it got shifter viagra
^haha. solid shifters are ftw. I couldn't stand having like 4 inches of play before the shifter actually does anything
DUDE.....thanks a bunch lost. I have the worst SLOPPYEST shifter in the world in my boosted sedan. Going to get that civic kit. SO what is worn out that makes the shifter sloppy.
Im asking cause mine is bad like it moves by it self lol....like a rag doll. I mean it dont pop out or nothing but its aynnoing as hell.
Great info man. I VOTE STICKY
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
one of them is probably the big bushing in the torque rod, that one in the kit, the other is way up under the car, behind the shifter, it's also in the kit, the entire shifter assembly actually floats, the only solid connection is the one at the transmission. suspect the bushing between the shifter itself and the shift rod, and the bushings, sleeves, in the connection to the transmission, the transmission one made a big difference driving it, even without the other bushings, I can't remember exactly whats in the stock bushing, mine uses the factory plastic sleeves over an aluminum bushing , there are a lot of plastic parts that can wear. you might have wear in the ball cage or seats, most of the parts are available, one thing is DON"T loose the metal piece over the rear shifter bushing. It's discontinued. most of the parts are pretty cheap, but you may have to wait a while, I know I got the last lower dust boot in the US, he said he could possibly order more but they have to come from Japan. Best to order everything and rebuild it while you can. the bushing connecting the shift arm to the shift rod is designed for some play, it's a metal sleeve with grooves cut in it and o rings down it's length, and two graphite bushings over it that snap in place. I think the O rings are supposed to give to prevent grinding into gear for bad drivers. I will be able to make a solid bushing to replace it if it gets discontinued One thing is when you drop the shifter, disconnect the downpipe and lower most of the exaust, the two nuts up under the heat shield are nearly impossible to reach otherwise. make sure you loctite those nuts, they will be a real pita to replace if they fall off. when you install the rear shifter bushing, you will need to transfer the two metal sleeves from the old one. the entire shifter floats under engine torque, when the engine rotates on it's axis, the shifter torque rod rotates and actually moves backwards, as well as the entire shifter. the entire thing is hung on a pin in the rear bushing, the bushing is bolted to the rear of the shift assembly plate, which is bolted to the tunnel. as the engine rotates the entire shifter slides back and forth on that pin. If one ear of that bushing is broke you would have terrible movement of the shifter.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 08-30-2010 at 07:09 PM.
the entire weight of the shifter,plus the shift rod, and the torque rod, is on this one bushing, the center hole in it. I could see a stock ear breaking after 20 plus years
the shifter feels great, no slop or anything, can't wait to get it done and drive this thing, next is the set of pedals i made five years ago, and a new brake booster, or new used one, it may seem like i'm doing things in a haphazard way, but there's a method to the madness, everything has to go in in a certain sequence to prevent it from going in and out 20 times, i had to work on the oil pan, so the cross member was out, while it was out and the exaust disconnected at the downpipe, i went ahead and finished this, while it was easy to drop the exaust to reach the bolts under the heat shield
sweet. how much did the kit cost you
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
I paid five bucks for it on ebay, i'm not sure what they usually cost,it's been in my parts for several years. you should be able to go to their website and put in that part number to get the year civic
pedals you made? Got pics of those? Are they placed better than the stock pedals or something? Extra adjustability?
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
I'll take some pictures mostly cosmetic is all and i overhauled all the bushings and everything
Yeah pics would be cool. I've meaning to grab a pedal assembly for modification. I really hate our pedal placement. Especially the way the accelerator sits in relation to the brake pedal. I'd like the get the accelerator to sit higher, and close to the brake pedal. Heel toe down shifting is nearly impossible with the stock pedal placement.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
new bushings ftw stuff looks nice man, but hey you should pull an LXI exhaust manifold and down pipe from the junk yard , 4-2-1 FTW, and i noticed a nice increase in power too ( i ran the 4-1 manifold on my 3g for awhile due to stuck bolts lol and the 4-2-1 gave it alot more high end)
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
made this today for this project, didn't use the DRO, just layout fluid, calipers,scribe, and a center punch. I like doing the holes the old fashiond way
and here are those pedals, they need cleaning up a bit
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