great answers. thanks for the information. ill see about that's weathertight crimps. since.the wire itself is small a few crimps shouldn't matter. the ones I know for sure I need to change are to extend factory wires for sensor placement. the #4 cylinder injector plug, the iat sensor plug.
I agree I solder once in awhile but since I'm in school crimping is as affective . Solder tends travel a bit up in the wire causing it to be stiff. There is no flex that way. More potential to break. Good crimp toolis key (snap on)an I use uncoated butt connecters an use heat shrink with weather resistan coatin in the tube of heat shrink it self . Hardly noticeable an looks as of it was not touched.
Last edited by Rendon LX-i; 11-18-2011 at 02:31 PM.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
That is exactly the problem with solder. It's also very easy to damage the insulation with too much heat.Originally Posted by Rendon LX-i
Using separate crimps and tubing is actually a little better than the combined ones. It's easier to get a good crimp if you don't have to crimp through insulation. And there is no risk of damaging the insulation if you don't crimp through it. It is a bit more work though.
C|
Today I was removing added systems I didn't think I would use. he ran a new power wire to the rear of the car to power a relay switched from the reverse lights. He was very thorough in routing and finish. I'm not going to run anything more then the stock reverse lights so that had to go, plus it freed up another extra wire to remove in the car.
I took out the starter switch bypass Zack put in but I need to grab a firewall plug that was removed. I don't like the idea of a 3/4in hole in the firewall, too much wind, noise and cold for me. I traced out the wiring for the old alarm setup. He added leds in the doors by the rear panel so you can see its armed. He also added power door lock solenoids. I found those wires as well. I traced out a positive and negative for a replay up near the passenger side headlight switched from a solid green wire coming from the 8 pin harness? Anyone have any clue what this is for? I cant find it in my manuals. I'm sure I'm going to remove the extra wires but first i want to know what he was trying to control with it.
All in all today i was rather impressed with how he built the car that is until I say the radiator mounting and front cross member clearancing he did. The radiator should have been moved over an inch and he would have been able to keep the stock overflow can. Instead he moved it all the way to the passenger side, bent the upper radiator mounts to make enough room which he had to remove the hood rod holder so the rod just bobbles around as you drive.
The front cross member is cut a bit which is fine but to make enough room to get the header past he bashed in the down pipes so far they are less then half the size they should have been. Ill have to source another down pipe and find a better way to clearance the front cross member.
I would love to find that green wire on the diagrams, please help so i know what its for
My plan was to get a weld in bung for the aftermarket aluminum radiator and install the factory thermocouple in it. i will need to get another weld in bung and have it installed on the thermostat housing so I can retain the entire factory cooling system. The only other idea would be to place the sensor some place else anyone have any ideas?
Ill post more tomorrow Im sure
bad temp gauge sending unit found and I need to reroute the engine bay wiring on the trans side. he doesn't have any wire supports so the harness is hanging off the sensors. its pretty depressing really. Ill have to see how Honda routed it stock and try to find those mounts or supports. he doesn't have anything on the harness itself.
If the headlights go up but not down is that the retractor control unit under the dash?
hopefully found the problem with the windows as well. the relay is bad.
Im going to the local yard tomorrow if its not wet outside and see how much stuff I can cram in my pockets. the prices have raised so high its almost cheaper to buy the parts new considering you have to pull them and clean them.
Most of the parts Im going to grab now are small anyways. Im going to see about power steering hoses allover the place. The guy used weapon r tubing in place of coolant lines and I dont care for that at all. Ill have to grab a few feet of that as well.
Last edited by mykwikcoupe; 11-19-2011 at 11:53 PM.
LOL! Nice. The yard I go to also jacked up their prices a couple years ago. When they first opened they had great prices, and there was a half price day every month which was even better. But then one time they wanted to charge me $35 for a freaking crank pulley, because they said it was a harmonic balancer, which it wasn't. I didn't really feel like arguing with the guy so I just paid it. But I won't buy certain parts there anymore. And sometimes if I just need small stuff like switches I'll put a few in my pocket and then actually pay for one or two of them, just so I'm not totally ripping them off.
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take pictures of the relay and I'll tell you what it is
Went out today and took a good look at the stock fan system. I shorted out the thermocouple at the radiator and wired in the aftermarket fan into the stock wiring but nothing happened. I checked the relay with a.battery and it fires as it.should. i did a continuity test to be sure sure the fan and thermocouple wires are unharmed and everything checks out. I have a constant 12 volts at the relay but what i am missing is.the 12 volt power ffrom the ignition switch to the relay. I checd the fuse which is good. I checked for 12 volts at the fuse which is good.but qhen i checked continuity from the fuse to the relay i had none. Am i lookingat the diagram wrong or.does.it.go someplace else. Help
According to the factory service manual, if both headlights fail to move in either direction then the problem should be the retractor control module. I swapped that out but no change. You can hear the internal relays clicking so i doubt thats the issue. Could it be the underhood.relays
finally got back on this project.The headlight retractor relays are good, the retractor control module is good, the motors are good. I think the only thing I havent checked is the timing relay on the back side of the fuse box. Has anyone ever had one go bad? I can manually activate the relays with the covers off and everything works. Its either the control signal coming from the dash area or a component failure of some sort.
Im going back to the yard again tomorrow to look and see if they have anything cool. Im going to see about grabbing the timing relay and swapping that.
I cant seem to locate a diagram that shows the routing of the 12 volt power from the fuse panel to the radiator fan relays in the under hood control box.
Ive managed to get alot of problems to individual issues with the troubleshooting complete. Id like to get it ready to make the meet but i cant promise anything. It needs alot of work to be up to my standards. i got my hands dirty working on the engine. You can eat off the coupe aside from the dust collected from sitting.
The car is an 86 hatch, I pulled the under dash fuse box out to replace a few relays and realized the fuel cutoff relay isnt even installed? It runs like a champ, whats the function of it and should I reinstall it.
I also noticed there are 3 spade terminals above the fuses themselves. Are these for extra additional power devices you could add if you wanted to? The car has an aftermarket sunroof and it would be nice to elimate the splice and add it directly to its own port. if this is the case, is it fused already or do i need to add provisions of the fuse.
I replaced a bunch of small things, cleaned up some stuff, JY charged almost 100 for a small handful of relays, and a couple gas struts. Wow I should really start just buying new. $7 each relay. Does honda have a DPDT relay I could use for the sunroof motors, they currently have there own (open, close) relay and it would be nice to make the extra area a bit cleaner possibly.
The three above the fuses are for battery,ignition,and lights.
Okay, another update, I removed the AC evaporator under the dash and filed the holes with the stock plugs. Anyone know if the box is different from cars with ac and without. Il;l head to the JY this weekend and grab one just incase.
I figured out the headlight issue. I have no clue why but Ive troubleshoot everything in the system. Today I pulled the dash bypass switch to the right of the steeringwheel and wouldnt you know it. It wasnt even plugged in. The wire was tucked back in the dash a ways. I rerouted and it, plugged it in and the headlights went down. I further total dynamic test results in complete usability. A lesson learned, with this switch as defective or completely removed from the system, the headlight operations default position is up. Must be a safety feature.
I installed the fuel cutoff relay and thats another feature i would appreciate having.
I banged the back wheel well spare tire area dent out. The car was originally totalled out after a rear end collision that dented the area about 2 inches in. I was able to reshape it with a plastic deadblow hammer. Looks pretty nice aside from a single bend. I need to scrape it down and put some POR15 on it. Unfortuantly its right on a seam. I should probably reseal the exterior of the seam and then paint it with POR.
The only issues I have left are the windows which I bet is the relay in the drivers door and the radiator wiring. Im almost ready to get it state inspected, transfered into my name and then its ready for the meet later this summer. Not sure if i want to keep the B16A3 or install the B18c I have. The HP numbers are close enough compared to the 120HP stock.
Well I managed to get alot accomplished this week. I swapped out the hollowed out AC condensor box under the dash for the correct duct from a non AC car. For those that haven't seen its a much smaller assembly that allows for alot of foot room under the glove box.
I swapped fixed the slow power windows and fixed alot while I was at it as you could read in my slow power windoes thread. I reinstalled the main under dash fuse box reassembled the dash and cleaned the interior a bit. I need to really scrub the upholstery in this thing but overall its in good shape for a 86.
I need to do a bit more little stuff and it'll be ready for the state inspection to be licensed in this state. I think the only violation I currently have is the tint is too dark. The from doors are 20 and the rest is 5. State law is 20 I believe. Do I pull it off and redo it after the inspection and if so how romex pull it off the hatch without damaging the defroster. The passenger window has vertical scratches from inside the door. Do the window rub on the regulators by design or is that a clue to a worn out and needs to be replaced piece.
Bleed the brakes, remount the radiator, fix an oil leak, install the hood prop rod and I can start rebuilding the suspension. The car itself is now 100% functional which is more then its been the last 5+years
a bit more research on the raditor fan system. The only ything keeping it from working is the 12 volt switch power at the relay under the hood for the fan motor relay. Im assuming this only power to latch the cotrol power to the relay not to power the device itself. is there another 12 volt switched source in the main fuse box under the hood i can grab power from to supply to my relay?
The list gets smaller every day. Still long enough though it may not make the late summer trips.
Finally got the radiator working again. It turned out that the wire that latches the relay ciol is broken or disconnected some place from the fuse box under the hood to the fuse box under the dash. I replaced it with a new chunck of wire and it fired right up. this makes me so much happier. This was the last of the questions I had for the car on work done previously. It has just a few small things left and itll be on the road sporting the b16.
I took the voltage regulator from a stock alternator, put it in the alternator of the motor going into the car, and then wired a IMA sensor where the ELD would be on the ECU. worked flawlessly
Last edited by A18A; 08-07-2012 at 09:57 PM.
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