Hi guys, i recently installed a weber carb on my 87 accord dx and did some extra work since i had the engine open (head gasket) anyway, i put everything back together, it seems that my battery died when i was trying to start the car but i saw something weird happening when i was trying to start it, the rpm needle would jump to 2k any idea why that would happen?
Why in the heck would brake fluid deform the brake seals
poor battery would cause thisOriginally Posted by luisgonzalez
Okay, because it only clicks when I'm turning and accelerating (at the same time) at low speeds and it's cold outside.
Usually the jumping tach needle is caused by a faulty ICM.
If it's just starting to click, you can probably regrease them and it will stop. They go for a very long time if you just keep grease in them. Have you verified that you don't have a torn boot? Noises usually start after all the grease gets slung across the underside of your car.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
The boot is completely disintegrated.
Hey I am new to the site. Ive searched for a while didn't find vary much info on it or maybe I just didn't search the right key words, but does know how or has anybody done a right hand drive swap? I have left hand drive 88 Accord LX-I but just like right hand drive look that much better.
Any and all info would be awesome thank you!
1st) I don't think anyone has done one. 2nd) Good luck finding a RHD front end you be better off importing a RHD 3gee!
Ok really dumb question.
Does anyone know the exact size of the Flywheel bolts? i think mine are stripped or chipped from the time we replaced the main and rod bearings. i was thinking that since im rebuilding the engine i should just buy new bolts? next week im gonna buy the ARP head bolts. the last thing i want is a bolt's head to snap and have to do more work than i have to. i search on autozone but they have those spectre ones. rock auto doesn't have them.. :/ can anyone point me to the right site?
i read somewhere M12 1.0mm. dunno how long the thread is tho.
Here's my dumb question. were the vigor's available in Canada?
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
Try summit, they might have arp,
I don't believe so due to the fact that the Accord was widely available there like it was here.
Is there any way to match up the serial # on the engine block to the VIN on the car? A lot of people have asked me if its the original engine but I never know what to tell them.
No worries, I should getting what I need from NZ soon.
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
There will be a engine number on the top the the engine and then if its original motor the engine number will match the engine num stamp on the inside driver fender. At least thats how my 85 is.
^^ The serial # I'm at talking about in under the "A20A3" engine code.
I have a question concerning engine codes. My engine says it is an A20A3, but the shop manuals all say that this engine is a fuel-injected version, where mine is a carbureted DX. What gives? Has the car been swapped from fuel injected to carbureted (doesn't seem likely)? Is the manual wrong?
sounds to me like the block was replaced... all dx models are carb.. but the blocks are interchangable
I guess that makes sense. I wonder how long ago that happened - the odometer reads just over 200k. But, I guess it's nice to know that at some point it's been rebuilt.
Thanks
Hey all, not sure if anyone will catch this but figure may as well give it a shot, recently I have swapped back from the weber that came on the car when i got it to the factory stock for now. Have never been a huge fan of weber, but my problem is I got all the vacuum lines hooked up cept for 2 on the rear, one after I had hooked it up to where I remember it going on the 88 i pulled the carb off of had antifreeze in it, and when testing to make sure all was connected right, car was running like crap and blowing white smoke like a champ. Pulled it and plugged it again, but there is that and another large one a little up and to the passenger side on the rear of the carb, anyone happen to know why it was blowin the smoke well other than the small ammount of water that got into the oil. Could really use some help.
P.S. would post pics but havent had enough posts to be allowed to yet
Hi !
I don't think. it's stupid things.
rishikesh tour package
What is the "fluid" used in the constant-velocty boot to lubricate the joint? Just regular grease?
Yup, use some wheel bearing grease.
Gracias.
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