no break presure... need input

[labeledsk8r]

Not sure on that but if the junkyard car has better pads than you, take those and use them for the mean time.

well actukly the pads looked great once i had them off.... so i dunno... but it seems fine without that adjuster screw..... felt like it was looseing presure agian but its stoping fine.... so i dunno

[2oodoor]

I saw a 3g today at JY that had all new wheel cyl and brakes.. you never know what you will find. I thought about you when I saw them.
sometimes the self adjusters get stuck and with wear that makes the wheel cyl move too far, eventually popping out and otherwise start leaking.
You bench bleed MC to get the little bit of air out of the end of it, some boooster rods /brake pedal never push the MC valve all the way to the tip.
Unless your brake lines are rusted, they should be ok, the flex lines from the frame to caliper can cause problems, so can water/moisture in the bottom of a caliper, water finds it's way to the lowest point of gravity which is in the cavity of the caliper. A good fluid flush is a good idea anyway.

[DBMaster]

I guess the 30,000 maintenance item of replacing the brake fluid was good foresight. I have had the car since new so I have been doing that. I have used Valvoline synthetic DOT 4 fluid since it came out - I don't remember how many years ago that was. I have had the M/C seals fail every 100K miles, but the rest of the system is totally original, except for the pads and shoes, of course.

[Vanilla Sky]

I agree with brake fluid flushes. On the flip side, NOT flushing quickly degrades the seals, and the bit of water trapped can become corrosive enough to erode anything it comes in contact with.

If the fluid isn't a light honey color, flush it. An hour and $10 of fluid now will save you hundereds of bucks and many more hours down the road.

[Soopitup]

Technically the color of the fluid shouldn't matter, I have a break fluid tester, tells the percentage of water in the fluid, 0% is great, 1-2% will need servicing soon, anything 3% or over is a very bad thing and you'll need a brake flush. So get it checked out first, most shops will have one on hand and will do it for free, takes like 5 seconds...

[lostforawhile]

you can get that kit with all new hardware at nappa and it was pretty cheap,talking about the brake springs,clips,etc i have to disagree on not replacing the parts, these cars are 20+ years old,it's not wasting money to overhaul the brakes.

[labeledsk8r]

well ... all last night it stoped fine.... today im driveing around get some taco bell... come home.. then go back out.. and the pedal starts getting spongy again... so it looks like ima need to swap master cylinders... i have one sitting here ... just need to learn how to do it lol

[DBMaster]

That sounds like an M/C to me, too. It comes with a bench bleeder kit. It's two plastic fittings that connect to the brake line holes and they have plastic tubes attached to them. You stick the ends of the tubes into the reservoir and pump the piston with the end of a screwdriver until you see no bubbles in the tubes. This is much easier to do with a bench vise. You keep the bleed tubes connected until you get the M/C bolted in. You will end up having a little fluid drip out when you pull the plastic fittings and connect the metal lines. You get very little air in the system this way. Then, you bleed at each wheel until the fluid runs clear. It should take one bottle of fluid or less to do this. I bleed mine in this order even though the shop manual has it a little different. RR, LR, RF, LF. I start at the farthest point from the M/C and work my way closer.

Just FYI, I have found that routine bleeding is much faster and easier if you replace the fluid in the M/C reservoir first.

[lostforawhile]

That sounds like an M/C to me, too. It comes with a bench bleeder kit. It's two plastic fittings that connect to the brake line holes and they have plastic tubes attached to them. You stick the ends of the tubes into the reservoir and pump the piston with the end of a screwdriver until you see no bubbles in the tubes. This is much easier to do with a bench vise. You keep the bleed tubes connected until you get the M/C bolted in. You will end up having a little fluid drip out when you pull the plastic fittings and connect the metal lines. You get very little air in the system this way. Then, you bleed at each wheel until the fluid runs clear. It should take one bottle of fluid or less to do this. I bleed mine in this order even though the shop manual has it a little different. RR, LR, RF, LF. I start at the farthest point from the M/C and work my way closer.

Just FYI, I have found that routine bleeding is much faster and easier if you replace the fluid in the M/C reservoir first.

also take off the resovoir cup, they usually don't come with the new master cyl. when you take it off,pop out the screen and clean the cup and the screen with brake cleaner. you will be suprised how much garbage is in there.

[labeledsk8r]

ok i just put a NEW MC on and reman booster becuse i had rust roles in mine... ..

now i have a new problem... the fucking brakes are to stiff.... feels and the idel doesnt go back down stays around 2,500 once on the gas... and when i mean stiff... there fucking stiff... i adjust the fitting for the pedal... so i dont know whats up...

[Vanilla Sky]

Defective MC.

[labeledsk8r]

Defective MC.

are you fucking for real.... i have to do that hit all over again !!!! FUCK!@!


**edit** wait MC ?? the car stops fine.... its just super stiff... and i think the front brakes stay on slightly.... wouldnt this be a bad booster not MC... i bled the brakes with a buddy hitting the brakes and there was fluid pumping.....

[A18A]

sounds like teh booster to me

[Vanilla Sky]

Yeah, my bad.

Defective BOOSTER.

/relpied when half asleep and in the middle of cleaning house

[labeledsk8r]

Yeah, my bad.

Defective BOOSTER.

/relpied when half asleep and in the middle of cleaning house

gotcha.. damnit i dont want ot do this shit again lol

sigh will have to wait till my next day off.... sigh

[forrest89sei]

That sucks man!

Well I'll get those brake lines out tomorrow for ya, so you can do it all at once

[DBMaster]

also take off the resovoir cup, they usually don't come with the new master cyl. when you take it off,pop out the screen and clean the cup and the screen with brake cleaner. you will be suprised how much garbage is in there.

Actually, mine came complete; reservoir, cap, and all. It has been on there for a good few years now. It was a nice surprise for $65.

[labeledsk8r]

do boosters take time to like brake in?? or no.... becuse i dont know why but it seems ot be getting better... but i dunno... the fronts are still dragging... but i have ot drive the car becuse i need to get to a interview in 3 hours lol

[89T]

no vaccume leaks?
plugged vaccume line....ect.ect.

[A18A]

is the check valve on the hose around the right way??

[2oodoor]

yep vaccum check valve on the boooster at the vac connection.

DBMaster a lot of companys stopped putting in the bleeder hoses in the box with a new MC

[labeledsk8r]

i will check that line later tonight... dunno how i woulda put it back on backwards....if i did ima feel soo damn dumb

[forrest89sei]

It's not being dumb, it's being under pressure

[Oldblueaccord]

Theres a rod in there that need to have the correct length or the fronts will start to drag the farther you drive it.


wp

[Oldblueaccord]

Its pages 20-24 20-25 in the 88 Helms book.

Just to parapharse from the book it looks like with the booster under vacuum you want justa small amount of play .016". I never have done it so someone might have something more to add to the process.


I do know this if its wrong the front brakes will slowly compress until there locked up completely.


wp