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Hi guys, i recently installed a weber carb on my 87 accord dx and did some extra work since i had the engine open (head gasket) anyway, i put everything back together, it seems that my battery died when i was trying to start the car but i saw something weird happening when i was trying to start it, the rpm needle would jump to 2k any idea why that would happen?
Why in the heck would brake fluid deform the brake seals
poor battery would cause thisQuote:
Originally Posted by luisgonzalez
Okay, because it only clicks when I'm turning and accelerating (at the same time) at low speeds and it's cold outside.Quote:
Originally Posted by A18A
Usually the jumping tach needle is caused by a faulty ICM.Quote:
Originally Posted by luisgonzalez
If it's just starting to click, you can probably regrease them and it will stop. They go for a very long time if you just keep grease in them. Have you verified that you don't have a torn boot? Noises usually start after all the grease gets slung across the underside of your car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
The boot is completely disintegrated.
Hey I am new to the site. Ive searched for a while didn't find vary much info on it or maybe I just didn't search the right key words, but does know how or has anybody done a right hand drive swap? I have left hand drive 88 Accord LX-I but just like right hand drive look that much better.
Any and all info would be awesome thank you!
1st) I don't think anyone has done one. 2nd) Good luck finding a RHD front end you be better off importing a RHD 3gee!Quote:
Originally Posted by Burkharta
Ok really dumb question.
Does anyone know the exact size of the Flywheel bolts? i think mine are stripped or chipped from the time we replaced the main and rod bearings. i was thinking that since im rebuilding the engine i should just buy new bolts? next week im gonna buy the ARP head bolts. the last thing i want is a bolt's head to snap and have to do more work than i have to. i search on autozone but they have those spectre ones. rock auto doesn't have them.. :/ can anyone point me to the right site?
i read somewhere M12 1.0mm. dunno how long the thread is tho.
Here's my dumb question. were the vigor's available in Canada?
Try summit, they might have arp,Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
I don't believe so due to the fact that the Accord was widely available there like it was here.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89T
Is there any way to match up the serial # on the engine block to the VIN on the car? A lot of people have asked me if its the original engine but I never know what to tell them.
No worries, I should getting what I need from NZ soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
There will be a engine number on the top the the engine and then if its original motor the engine number will match the engine num stamp on the inside driver fender. At least thats how my 85 is.Quote:
Originally Posted by obdriver6
^^ The serial # I'm at talking about in under the "A20A3" engine code.
I have a question concerning engine codes. My engine says it is an A20A3, but the shop manuals all say that this engine is a fuel-injected version, where mine is a carbureted DX. What gives? Has the car been swapped from fuel injected to carbureted (doesn't seem likely)? Is the manual wrong?
sounds to me like the block was replaced... all dx models are carb.. but the blocks are interchangable
I guess that makes sense. I wonder how long ago that happened - the odometer reads just over 200k. But, I guess it's nice to know that at some point it's been rebuilt.
Thanks
Hey all, not sure if anyone will catch this but figure may as well give it a shot, recently I have swapped back from the weber that came on the car when i got it to the factory stock for now. Have never been a huge fan of weber, but my problem is I got all the vacuum lines hooked up cept for 2 on the rear, one after I had hooked it up to where I remember it going on the 88 i pulled the carb off of had antifreeze in it, and when testing to make sure all was connected right, car was running like crap and blowing white smoke like a champ. Pulled it and plugged it again, but there is that and another large one a little up and to the passenger side on the rear of the carb, anyone happen to know why it was blowin the smoke well other than the small ammount of water that got into the oil. Could really use some help.
P.S. would post pics but havent had enough posts to be allowed to yet :(
Hi !
I don't think. it's stupid things.
What is the "fluid" used in the constant-velocty boot to lubricate the joint? Just regular grease?
Yup, use some wheel bearing grease.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
:o Gracias.
its not regular grease, its a special moly based high temp grease, they usually sell packets of it at the parts store counters, just tell them you need the grease to repack cv jointsQuote:
Originally Posted by 2drSE-i
Does anyone know what the compression is suppose to be in our cars? I have the 1.8 carbed. I havent been able to find any info in the manual on this. I did a compression test today and came up with this.
#1. 150psi
#2. 160psi
#3. 165psi
#4. 160psi
your compression is good. they all have to be within 20% from eachother
is it worth rebuilding a over heated engine? this dude told me that it will never run the same but how about i bore it over and put new parts in it... do you guys think its worth it? when i ran the car it had no problems in the block like knocking or anything just blew smoke. i don't wanna spend money on parts if the block is no good... if i get a good answer then maybe i can start ordering parts asap to get the block and head finished thanks everyone for any input!
these blocks are tough as shit, whoever told you it would never run right again is an idiot, you may not even have to rebore anything, the bores may be just fine just need some honing. if you tore an engine apart and rebuilt everything,why would it never run right again?Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
well i figured it would run but he said no so it got me thinking i was like 90% positive it would till he said it wont so 10% was like "uh did i misread something???0_0". i even bet him $100 or even his truck that ill be able to get it running right. So he chickened out cause i was sure it would. Thanks Tim i needed someone to help me on that. Tomorrow im gonna tear the block down in pieces and send the block in for work as well as the crank and connecting rods. Thanks once again.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
with motors that are cast iron blocks & alloy heads, it tends to be just the head &/or gasket that fails when they're over heated. bottom ends are usually fine so i've found.
the head is what im worried about...gonna check the inside of the block tomorrow and see how bad it is.
oh also another question, how do i get the head and block look like "new"? do they sand blast it or repaint them?
they usually hot tank iron blocks, once everything is stripped off of the block, the machine shop can tank it, don't try this with an aluminum block like a civic lol, the old engine rebuild shop here had a ricer come in insisting that it's safe to hot tank an aluminum block so they did, they gave him the remains and told him to pound sand. These old iron closed deck blocks will take a lot before they are damaged beyond repair, I can't say the same for the disposable blocks they make nowQuote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
Well, if the block is cracked, the crank scored and the head warped beyond shaving, then it will be pretty hard to get it running right. Just depends on how badly it was overheated and how severely it was thrashed in that condition. I'm always impressed at the power of idiots to destroy things.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
the block doesn't show any signs of cracks on the outside. the freeze plugs are still intact and no signs of leakage. the head isn't crack either. can't remember if they ran the car and then it shut off on them and wouldn't turn on. can't remember. im with you on the idiot part...probably someone that didn't know anything about cars. IMO everyone that owns or have a car should at least know the basics of car. Im anxious to know the internals condition, i couldn't find a 12 spline socket for the Flexplate bolts i mean i found some but i really only need one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz
i am selling a 87 accord carb engine and trans with racing headers on it with 181,xxx miles and still a strong clutch in it. 300 obo
wrong section...Quote:
Originally Posted by 86hblxi
I saw some rear cupholders in a 3G at the junkyard yesterday... I would have got them since they matched my Hatch's interior, but I wasn't sure they'd fit my hatch. Are the rear cupholders compatible with all 3G's? I didn't know they existed since my hatch just has empty side pockets there. I desperately need some form of cup holders for my car, and if they have to be in the back of the car rather than up front in the console, thats fine with me. So, anyone know if they'll fit a hatch?
Rear cup holders? I've never heard of them. Post pictures! They're probably aftermarket.
Crud, I thought they were a coupe option. Well then, I'm gonna go back and pick them up as soon as I get a chance. The lid of the pocket area opens to reveal the cupholders inside, the same color as the interior and everything. They did a pretty good job matching & fitting them if they were custom/aftermarket.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Stupid question: do both front wheels spin or is it just one?
They all spin? if you mean which ones drive the wheels, both front wheels do. but as with any car with a open diff, the wheel with the least resistance is going to spin if you try to do a burnout
How many lights are affected by the "dimmer switch going bad"? A couple of nights ago my dash suddenly went out, and I just realized last night that none of my corner lights or tail lights work - only my head lights and brake lights. None of my dash lights up except for the two (three w/ a/c) selected vent positions on my climate control (nawwwwwwwmean?).
hay i have a 1983 accord hb and i wanted to know what newer honda sway bars will work on my car any info will help thanks
see if addco is still in buisness they make the high performance bars for the older carsQuote:
Originally Posted by 83beater
thats not the dimmer switch,thats the switch for the headlights or the fuse, you have power that comes into the switch,then it splits for high low beam and then on to the four headlight fuses, the same feeder wire also splits off for the running light position this runs all of your tailights marker lights etc, and the power to the dimmer circuit comes from that position on the headlight switch,if the taillights don't come on but the headlights do, the issue is in the switch, make sure it's not the fuse for the running lights also, after power comes off of that position it comes into the fuse for the circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
My head lights both work (high and low beam), and so do my brake lights. None of my dash lights up and my corner and tail lights do not work, including all side markers and license plate lights. The clock does not dim when I turn my head lights on, either, and the buckets go back down in the second position when I turn my head lights off (they usually stay up until you turn them completely off). Still not the dimmer switch? Why would the head lights work and the dash not if it's the control arm that went bad?
Wait, nevermind. I understand what you meant now. I will check the fuse - hopefully that's the problem.
Hello, I don't know if this is the right place but here goes!
victim-88 Honda accord- carburetor
problem-mystery to me please help!
The car will start but will only continue to run if you constantly keep feathering (pumping) the gas pedal.... you can actually even drive it (very miserably) if you keep pumping the gas! It's did this one other time, I let it set for 3 days, drove it again for couple months, But now it won't come out of it! I believe it's getting fuel because it will run if constantly pumping it! I AM LOST I bought the thing for cheap beater car but have grown dependent on it and need it running any help much appreciated! :bow:
lostforawhile; what fuse am I looking to replace? There are two under the dash: one says "left tail lamp" and the other "right tail lamp / license plate lights". Is it one/both of those, or is it one under the hood?
A few questions. The car is an '89 DX sedan.
--It takes like five minutes of furious gas pedal pumping to get the thing started and another five of sitting to let it warm up enough. Would a Weber conversion remedy this?
--If I were to replace the AC compressor and accumulator, how much mineral oil would I need to add?
--My cruise control is broken. The button on the left side of the dash appears to not work but the bluish-green light over Cruise Control is lit. I'll get it up to the speed I want and hit the SET button, and the green light in the instrument cluster comes on momentarily but blinks off as soon as I take my foot off the gas. I've gotten it to work once before at around 35mph but nothing since then.
--My headlights suck. What would be a good replacement bulb?
--The head to my stickshift isn't attached right and it kinda twists around. On occasion it makes a full rotation and binds up all the leather, making me miss a shift. Not really a major problem but kind of an annoyance. How do I fix this?
it should be fuse 14 under the dash, should be 15 amp, if the underhood 40 amp fuse was blown the head lights wouldn't work, after power comes through the switch it goes to fuse 14 and then is distributed to dash lights tail lights etc, I don't know why it's showing two tail light fuses, the factory wiring diagram shows one 15 amp for all that, I can't remember if you have an lxi or not, if you do check connector 4 under the carpet next to your door, after power comes out of the switch it goes through a connector there firstQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
there's a solenoid on the back of the carb pointing towards the firewall, check to see if that has power going into it. that causes similar problems to what you're having when there's no power going to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by tdr
grab the chrome thing just under the knob and yank it downwards, if you've never done that before, you will probably whack your hand on the center console lol. but that would seperate the leather boot thing from the gearknob so you can tighten it down even more. or you can unscrew the knob, wrap a bit of tape around the lever & put the knob back on for it to be a bit tighterQuote:
Originally Posted by Samwise
That solved it. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by A18A
Do Aerodeck window visors fit the coupe windows?
Yes; coupes, hatches, and aerodecks all have the same doors, as far as the overall design goes.
People with b series Intake manifold! do you guys get the idle surge when warming up? like bouncing idle?
Finally gonna buy a B series Intake mani
Also, How many quarts go in the Manuel trans?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
You know, I've noticed that I always have this problem. Weird. Just thought it was cause I bypass the IACV... Anyone else have this problem?? I get it at around 1500 rpms, and can't seem to fix the damn thing!! :chainsaw:
I just did mine: Took all of two and most of a third bottle of Honda manual transmission fluid. (So, almost three quarts.)Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
you are supposed to fill it until you can just feel fluid at the edge of the filler hole. with what the honda fluid costs, clean a drain pan until it's spotless, then catch the excess fluid that always drains out, and put it back in the bottleQuote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Yeah its $10 a quart which I dont mind paying. Just wanted to know how much I should put. Also gonna order a honda headgasket now thats pricey.
im tired of obd0 so ill be going obd1. I just dont want the surge to be a problem.
I had a munter of a time fixing the idle surging problem on my car yesterday (though different engine, i'd expect it to be the same problem being a honda) basically I ended up having to clean the IACV & FITV, fix all the coolant issues I had (had a blocked radiator hose) and then remove all vacuum leaks to the point where I could block the TB off with my hand to stall the motor, and have it not lose any vacuum. once I achieved that, I had no more surging idle
I pulled two mirror+light sunvisors from an LX-i coupe in the JY yesterday to replace my hatch's standard sun-visors. I took off the passenger side visor and looked for the wire to connect the new visor to. I didn't see a wire, so I felt around in the hole and I think I might have possibly found the wire over to the left (something that feels like a wire with a plastic/rubber covering on it) however, it seems to be stuck between an area of the roof and the ceiling. I couldn't get a visual of the 'possible wire', so I searched the electrical troubleshooting guide and the honda manual, but neither one said anything about the wiring for the mirrors and whether or not it is standard in all 3Geez. I might be able to get at it using a needle nose pliers but I don't want to break whatever it is if it isn't actually the visor wiring. My question is: is the wiring for lighted mirrors in ALL 3Geez, and is it a good idea to try to get the possible wire with a needlenose pliers, or is there a better way to go about installing these new sun-visors?
you need to tie into the blue/white wire at the dome light and pull the wire overQuote:
Originally Posted by 89HatchbackLxi
Oh.. Well, shoot. I was really hoping I wasn't going to need to remove the headliner for this.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
you don't have to remove it, just pull the dome light loose, and take the bolts holding the sunvisor and it's retaining clip loose, you might have to remove the trim around the passenger side door, the plastic piece that curves down to the dash, but you should be able to fish the wire throughQuote:
Originally Posted by 89HatchbackLxi
how fast are people getting these cars? my girl has an '86 LXi and i can't really imagine there being any point in modifying it to go "fast". i'm not stranger to making Hondas fast, mind you.. but we haven't seen a point, yet, in doing extensive modifications. we aren't even looking to put any exhaust or intake work into it.
so, i'm just curious. i've never dealt with anything other than a B-series engine. i'm completely knew to these older cars.
These are definatly not going to keep up with mustangs. but with a little work you can make a really fun grocery getter/daily driver.Quote:
Originally Posted by FresnoCA5
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
Depends on how much you're willing to spend! lol If you want NA, the most I would say 210-220hp and thats with a lot of custom parts but if you want more info you can talk to rjudgey. If you plan on turbo, you can easily do 600+hp with fully built engine and good tune, iron block will hold MADS amount of boost.Quote:
Originally Posted by FresnoCA5
Thanks! I tried this before attempting to remove the headliner, and I was able to get the wires through on both sides only removing the visors and the dome light. I now have two visors with mirrors and working lights. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Whats a good Air Compressor to use? like how much psi for any car?
Driver and passenger side with mirror and lights...?Quote:
Originally Posted by 89HatchbackLxi
14 was right tail lights, corner lights, dash lights, license lights, side markers...15 was just left tail lights. Replaced 14 and everything works! Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
iron block? whaaaaaaa?Quote:
Originally Posted by obdriver6
600whp single cam. interesting. we had 650, but it took a sleeved 2.0L GSR and a rather large Precision SC63 turbo. i guess these engines are also 2.0L so...
are they that efficient? i've seen d-series engines make that kinda power.. but they were ridiculously built. and with about a 1,000RPM power band. LOL
yep they are the last generation iron block Honda madeQuote:
Originally Posted by FresnoCA5
As long as the pistons and rod hold, the closed deck iron block will be fine. I would say the only draw back these engines has is the head that doesn't flow very well but a good big valve upgrade should really help.Quote:
Originally Posted by FresnoCA5
This is AccordEpicenter's accord and he want to reach 500whp with a bigger turbo.
Yes sir. Both with mirrors and lights. Didn't know the driver side had the option, but apparently it does.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie
The Lx-i I got them from also had leather seats, so the car definitely had a few options added.
oh, no. you should NOT have told me this. you see... my Grand National had an iron block... my Evo had an iron block...Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
..... :D
I'm swapping out my auto tranny for a manual one...where's a good place for all the parts I need...pick-n-pull...or is there a better place I can buy a tranny and parts...thanks........
pick and pull ,check the stickies here to get a complete list of what you need and all the info you need to do the swapQuote:
Originally Posted by 87hondalx
Dont know if this has been asked but why do people always hook up civics with turbo and never accords. Accords are naturally a faster car stock so y not boost those more. All I ever see is turbo'd Civics WHY???
Quote:
Originally Posted by SladeHonda
we regularly got about 400whp out of a stock GSR engine. the b-series respond WELL to boost. just lucky engineering, i guess.
this was on 100% stock engines. never cracked open. i don't remember any of accord engines being as robust.
i can't say the same for a d-series engine other than it's a pain in the ass to put a turbo kit on a Honda AND worry about swapping an H22.
wait. you said Civics. so my paragraph above is all that applies here. LOL
So I'm swapping out my auto tranny for a manual tranny with 200k on the manual tranny...also the clutch is fairly new...my question is...is 200k too much mileage for the manual tranny or can it likely last another 50k...what's the avg. Mileage for the manual trannies...thanks in advance....
ok, the three spade connections in the middle of the fuse box,with no connector plug, 1,2,3 do they go to open fuses? and what circuits do they connect to,if I had a spare fuse box I would dismantle it and look
check the diff, input shaft & shifter for play, if they all feel nice and tight, it should be all good. just put some new oil in itQuote:
Originally Posted by 87hondalx
i cant remember how they work exactly, but i know one has power when the key is on ACC and the other has power when it's turned to IGN, can't remember what the other one's for.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Thanks for the help A18A....
I think the other one is tied into the lights.
Whats the OEM part number for Our cars Oil Filter? I see alot of them with different parts number listed on their site unless they all fit?
Wanna get everything ready! :)
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure it goes (from left to right) 1=ACC, 2=IGN, & 3=GROUND. At least that's how my workedQuote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
My fogs switch power source is connected to that second one. So that when I turn the car off my fogs will turn off as well. First on had power when turned on ACC and 3 never had any power
Ha! I found the liitle thing. I just bought mine yesterday. Its HM3593AQuote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
Thanks for that but i talking about Honda OEM filter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Honda Man
Is it ok to go OBD1 on a fresh rebuilt engine?
you know a lot of the new factory filters are made by the same company that makes fram right? the good filters Honda puts on are only available overseas, here you get the crappy filtersQuote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
That i didn't know. not sure how it would but it has the Jap. writing on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by lostforawhile
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
of course. why not? the only difference is you get a few more sensors to monitor engine performance. it could only be a good thing.
Ok Thanks. Just wanted to confirm this since the engine will be out and i could clean up and wiring everything up.Quote:
Originally Posted by FresnoCA5
Is it possible to use 15x7 +38 offset wheels on this car?
yup thats not a problem unless you are slammedQuote:
Originally Posted by ShyBoyCA6
