lostforawhile; what fuse am I looking to replace? There are two under the dash: one says "left tail lamp" and the other "right tail lamp / license plate lights". Is it one/both of those, or is it one under the hood?
lostforawhile; what fuse am I looking to replace? There are two under the dash: one says "left tail lamp" and the other "right tail lamp / license plate lights". Is it one/both of those, or is it one under the hood?
A few questions. The car is an '89 DX sedan.
--It takes like five minutes of furious gas pedal pumping to get the thing started and another five of sitting to let it warm up enough. Would a Weber conversion remedy this?
--If I were to replace the AC compressor and accumulator, how much mineral oil would I need to add?
--My cruise control is broken. The button on the left side of the dash appears to not work but the bluish-green light over Cruise Control is lit. I'll get it up to the speed I want and hit the SET button, and the green light in the instrument cluster comes on momentarily but blinks off as soon as I take my foot off the gas. I've gotten it to work once before at around 35mph but nothing since then.
--My headlights suck. What would be a good replacement bulb?
--The head to my stickshift isn't attached right and it kinda twists around. On occasion it makes a full rotation and binds up all the leather, making me miss a shift. Not really a major problem but kind of an annoyance. How do I fix this?
Last edited by Samwise; 04-05-2012 at 09:36 PM.
it should be fuse 14 under the dash, should be 15 amp, if the underhood 40 amp fuse was blown the head lights wouldn't work, after power comes through the switch it goes to fuse 14 and then is distributed to dash lights tail lights etc, I don't know why it's showing two tail light fuses, the factory wiring diagram shows one 15 amp for all that, I can't remember if you have an lxi or not, if you do check connector 4 under the carpet next to your door, after power comes out of the switch it goes through a connector there firstOriginally Posted by Charlie
Last edited by lostforawhile; 04-05-2012 at 09:34 PM.
there's a solenoid on the back of the carb pointing towards the firewall, check to see if that has power going into it. that causes similar problems to what you're having when there's no power going to it.Hello, I don't know if this is the right place but here goes!
victim-88 Honda accord- carburetor
problem-mystery to me please help!
The car will start but will only continue to run if you constantly keep feathering (pumping) the gas pedal.... you can actually even drive it (very miserably) if you keep pumping the gas! It's did this one other time, I let it set for 3 days, drove it again for couple months, But now it won't come out of it! I believe it's getting fuel because it will run if constantly pumping it! I AM LOST I bought the thing for cheap beater car but have grown dependent on it and need it running any help much appreciated!
grab the chrome thing just under the knob and yank it downwards, if you've never done that before, you will probably whack your hand on the center console lol. but that would seperate the leather boot thing from the gearknob so you can tighten it down even more. or you can unscrew the knob, wrap a bit of tape around the lever & put the knob back on for it to be a bit tighter
That solved it. Thank you.
Do Aerodeck window visors fit the coupe windows?
Yes; coupes, hatches, and aerodecks all have the same doors, as far as the overall design goes.
People with b series Intake manifold! do you guys get the idle surge when warming up? like bouncing idle?
Finally gonna buy a B series Intake mani
Also, How many quarts go in the Manuel trans?
Last edited by ShyBoyCA6; 04-07-2012 at 02:57 PM.
You know, I've noticed that I always have this problem. Weird. Just thought it was cause I bypass the IACV... Anyone else have this problem?? I get it at around 1500 rpms, and can't seem to fix the damn thing!!
I just did mine: Took all of two and most of a third bottle of Honda manual transmission fluid. (So, almost three quarts.)
you are supposed to fill it until you can just feel fluid at the edge of the filler hole. with what the honda fluid costs, clean a drain pan until it's spotless, then catch the excess fluid that always drains out, and put it back in the bottle
Yeah its $10 a quart which I dont mind paying. Just wanted to know how much I should put. Also gonna order a honda headgasket now thats pricey.
im tired of obd0 so ill be going obd1. I just dont want the surge to be a problem.
I had a munter of a time fixing the idle surging problem on my car yesterday (though different engine, i'd expect it to be the same problem being a honda) basically I ended up having to clean the IACV & FITV, fix all the coolant issues I had (had a blocked radiator hose) and then remove all vacuum leaks to the point where I could block the TB off with my hand to stall the motor, and have it not lose any vacuum. once I achieved that, I had no more surging idle
I pulled two mirror+light sunvisors from an LX-i coupe in the JY yesterday to replace my hatch's standard sun-visors. I took off the passenger side visor and looked for the wire to connect the new visor to. I didn't see a wire, so I felt around in the hole and I think I might have possibly found the wire over to the left (something that feels like a wire with a plastic/rubber covering on it) however, it seems to be stuck between an area of the roof and the ceiling. I couldn't get a visual of the 'possible wire', so I searched the electrical troubleshooting guide and the honda manual, but neither one said anything about the wiring for the mirrors and whether or not it is standard in all 3Geez. I might be able to get at it using a needle nose pliers but I don't want to break whatever it is if it isn't actually the visor wiring. My question is: is the wiring for lighted mirrors in ALL 3Geez, and is it a good idea to try to get the possible wire with a needlenose pliers, or is there a better way to go about installing these new sun-visors?
you need to tie into the blue/white wire at the dome light and pull the wire over
Oh.. Well, shoot. I was really hoping I wasn't going to need to remove the headliner for this.
you don't have to remove it, just pull the dome light loose, and take the bolts holding the sunvisor and it's retaining clip loose, you might have to remove the trim around the passenger side door, the plastic piece that curves down to the dash, but you should be able to fish the wire through
how fast are people getting these cars? my girl has an '86 LXi and i can't really imagine there being any point in modifying it to go "fast". i'm not stranger to making Hondas fast, mind you.. but we haven't seen a point, yet, in doing extensive modifications. we aren't even looking to put any exhaust or intake work into it.
so, i'm just curious. i've never dealt with anything other than a B-series engine. i'm completely knew to these older cars.
These are definatly not going to keep up with mustangs. but with a little work you can make a really fun grocery getter/daily driver.
Thanks!
Depends on how much you're willing to spend! lol If you want NA, the most I would say 210-220hp and thats with a lot of custom parts but if you want more info you can talk to rjudgey. If you plan on turbo, you can easily do 600+hp with fully built engine and good tune, iron block will hold MADS amount of boost.
Thanks! I tried this before attempting to remove the headliner, and I was able to get the wires through on both sides only removing the visors and the dome light. I now have two visors with mirrors and working lights.
Whats a good Air Compressor to use? like how much psi for any car?
Driver and passenger side with mirror and lights...?
14 was right tail lights, corner lights, dash lights, license lights, side markers...15 was just left tail lights. Replaced 14 and everything works! Thanks!
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