Ignition Coil Thread (UNDER CONSTRUCTION)

[Mike's89AccordLX]

I am just installing my accel chrome coil tonight. It's sweet but I don't know the details about it.

[ACCORD EX]

BTW 50 ohm's is ok for continoutiy !

MIKE

[Greg]

OK, I realize that I screwed up my decimal point when I tested my coil the first time AND that there is a mis-print in the shop manual that Paul has.

It says the resistance from A-D should be like 1,200 ohms, but mine was like 1.9 ohms.

Chilton's and the post here in the How-to say like 1.2 to 1.5 ohms.

Anyway, so mine is STILL out of spec, even though I took the wrong measurement.

But now I'm kinda worried about the whole ACCEL thing. Like, why do you only use 2 terminals. Isn't the 2.2k ohm resistor betw B & C and the A to C continuity important?

Would you screw something else up eventually by putting the stuff on only 2 posts?

I went to a cheapo auto store and tested a Well's aftermarket coil ($30 w/ lifetime warranty). OK, it's no hot-rod coil, but it was giving me measurements of like 9.something k ohms from A to secondary (which I think is kinda LOW actually. does this mean the field has fewer windings or something and will give less spark?)

But I think the other stuff -- the primary winding -- was in SPEC.

The shit is, I'm not even sure if my coil is the main problem. There are other weird things going on w/the car, and I'm not sure it's JUST a weak spark thing or if a new coil will help at all.

How much do you think it would screw things up if my A to D resistance is 1.9 instead of 1.5 ohms. Isn't that a pretty insignificant diff?

[DanG86LX]

...How much do you think it would screw things up if my A to D resistance is 1.9 instead of 1.5 ohms.

Greg, it is difficult to measure such small resistance with an ordinary multimeter due to leads resistance. But u can short the leads first and read leads resistance, then subtract it from A-D readings. And when u take a reading, wait like 10sec till multimeter settle to final value.
For example, measuring my spare coil:
A - D = 1.8 ohms
Meter leads = 0.4 ohms
True A - D = 1.8 - 0.4 = 1.4 ohms i think is good!
There is no way a multimeter can measure with 3 decimal point accuracy! A 4 wire measurement would do it though.

B - D = 2.2 kohms is important since B goes to tach, fuel cut-off relay and some other engine speed related devices. If u use a 2 terminal coil as suggested, u may have to attach an external 2.2 kohms resistor to it.

A - C should be ZERO ohms. 50ohms looks too high. C goes to distributor - igniter and supplies 12V to it. Maybe that's where the problem is.

Is the coil good when all resistances are on specs? Not always, like the distributor cup and rotor, spark plugs and wires, low voltage measurements could be good but the spark may find another path to jump to and there's when engine misses.

Forgot, coil part # 30500-PH1-026

[Greg]

Dan,

thanks so much for your help again! I just bought my multimeter and haven't done much of this kind of diagnostic work on electrical stuff before, so your info is helpful.

I'll see what resistance I get when I short my leads. Maybe my coil is on spec???

Yeah, I thought that the 50 ohms from A to C was high! I'll probably pull the coil again, run more tests, and then get back to everyone w/ the results.

I tested my wires, and they're good (NGK's only a few years old, no tears or anything, and they're all like 2.5k ohms to 5k ohms)

I'm pretty sure that my cap and rotor are OK. I will still test my ignitor and some other stuff.

Hey, if you get a chance, can you look at my other post about the same car blowing luke-warm w/the heater @ hot. I'm thinking that my thermostat is stuck open, my engine doesn't warm up properly, and then my low idle coupled w/weak spark (maybe) and cool engine give me that occasional miss.

It smooths out after 30 min of driving and idles @ 900rpm w/almost no miss.

I gotta say that in many ways i like my carb lx better than my girlfriend's EFI because diagnosing for bad sensors or other stuff can be a pain!

[A20A1]

So you still need the coil or are you gonna hold on that?

[si accord]

i'll take it if he don't , i'll pay shippin and if u won't me to buy it from u i will, i just need a new one and don't have the money to buy a new accel coil, thanks alot for ur help



opie

[Greg]

Hey Mike, thanks for all your help, but give the coil to anyone else who needs it. I think mine is OK, and I'm gonna try to track down other possible problems.

I'm thinking that I'll check my FI resistor next.

peace! :smokin: :smokin: :smokin:

[Nate2310]

Is an accel super stock coil a good coil to go with?


Who makes a cap and rotor kit for our cars? Where could I get it?

*someone move this thread to Performance** srry

[smufguy]

its the right setion, dont worry about it. anywayz, stick with a stock rotor and cap if u dont mind cause its not gonna make much difference and also i dont know anyone who makes it for us. ppl use accel and its pretty decent, but if u got nos or something like that (in the future i mean) u would wanna go with MSD cause they are just better.

Why would u wanna invest in ignition anywayz? ur not gonna get much power gains (noticable ones i mean) outta them unless ur ignition system is crapped out.

[rob49]

The igniton coil and acceleration coil are the same thing right. And what are some symptoms of a acceleartion coil going bad.

[Mike's89AccordLX]

It's called an Accel ignition coil. And I would suggest just getting one. It will increase the energy of the spark and looks sweet if you have the chrome one like I do.

[rob49]

What kind of brand do you recommend? And How much do they run for?

[anchovies]

Aftermarket coils (MSD or Accel) runs about $30. If your stock coil is working correctly then spend your $ elsewhere.

[Greg]

I agree w/anchovies on this one. If your coil works fine (test all the resistance across the leads. There is a description in the faqs or how-to on this board) then keep it.

While you're at it, check your plugs and resistance on ignition wires. If your ignition wire resistance is higher than a range of like 2.5-5k ohms (this is what my new ngk's measured, while my VERY old sumitomos were worn down to like 10kohms) then get new wires. Or check your cap and rotor and get those new if they're old.

Basically, I generally think it's a waste to get a part that gives you a slight performance boost if your old one is good because on old cars like these there will probably be a part that is actually worn to the point that changing it WILL give you better performance.

Unless you want to just start dropping money on your car, and then get performance everything.

[Nate2310]

it is shitting out

[1988starter]

No one makes a cap and rotor kit for us I have a borg and warner one. Yes an accel coil is good heps smooth things out get one off ebay or your local auto store.

[ACCORD EX]

i would go with a stick cap and rotor !

MIKE

[anchovies]

Originally posted by ACCORD EX
i would go with a stick cap and rotor !

MIKE

I'll like to get one of those stick ones :lol

[ACCORD EX]

Originally posted by anchovies
I'll like to get one of those stick ones :lol

me





sorry a typo !
i meant STOCK !

MIKE

[AccordEpicenter]

Stock cap and rotor are good ideas. Does the upgraded coil make the engine run smoother at idle? My car has just a light miss every once in a while, more like a half miss, but ive changed plugs cap rotor, cleaned injectors, umm a few other things cant remember but the car only has 112000 miles and i swear the stock ignition is doint it... like the coil or somthing

[1988starter]

Yea an accvel coil helps smooth idel

[Slamed89Accord]

If i got one of these would i expect any gains in hp/torque or anyhting. what would you guys recommend to get?

[A20A1]

It should be an improvement over stock... but don't expect a noticable gain.

I have both Accel Super Stock and MSD Blaster 2
I havent tested the MSD yet though.

If you want more torque, why not get a different mod?

- Exhaust:
- - 2.25 Cat Back
- - Header
- - Testpipe or High-flow Cat
- - Muffler

- Intake:
- - 32/36, 38/38, SINGLE 45 DCOE or DUAL 40 DCOE Weber conversion
- - Short Ram. Velocity Stack, Cold Air, or Ram Air

- Head Work:
- - CAM Regrind
- - Port and Polish
- - Valve Angle Job
- - Adjustable Cam Gear

--__--__--__--__--__

- Ignition:
- - Coil
- - Wires
- - Plugs
- - Ignition Control Box
- - Battery / Battery wires

[anchovies]

Save your money and do othe mods first.