89 Accord Automatic SEI Starts cold most times, but struggles on first few attempts after it's warm. Any ideas appreciated.
89 Accord Automatic SEI Starts cold most times, but struggles on first few attempts after it's warm. Any ideas appreciated.
Here's a video link of the Sei starting attempts.
https://youtu.be/DYinwUwWTIA
ROFLMAO!! Yeah man, I might know a little something about that.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/efi-tech...+restart+issue
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Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I read thru your post, I see you feel my pain with this issue. I probably should have said that I have a new battery, removed the starter, had it tested (good), removed the +/- battery cables to completely clean both ends and connections. \
Unlike yours, mine cranks when warm but sounds terrible, as though it's running on 2 of the four cylinders, kinda pulsing when warm as my YouTube video shows. What does the TW stand for on the sensor you mentioned? I have removed the distributor cap cleaned. Wires are relatively new and not more than 3000 mile on them. I also thought of taking my injectors apart to take a look at cleaning them, I first poured a bottle of StarTron StarBrite cleaner in my full tank of fuel to see if it would do any good. I don't drive my car very often maybe 10-15 times a year, so that explains possible problems with fuel, we have 10% alcohol in it here.
Any codes flashing on the ECU
no codes, I looked at that and was hoping it could point to something. I turn the key to position 2 with the car off. No light. Let me know if I'm reading it wrong.
If the CEL doesn't come on for 2 seconds when you first turn the car on, that means your ECU is dead. The TW sensor supplies engine temperature info to the ECU. I don't know what it stands for and I don't think it's your problem. What finally solved my issue was cleaning up my ground contacts and replacing my ignition switch. You might look at those items for yours too. The valve cover ground is an especially fragile connection and many stereo shops will wire a new one rather than trust it. The slow start indicates a ground problem. The fact that it magically goes away with a turn of the key would point to a bad ignition switch, possibly a bad starter relay if you have a MT. It's also worth inspecting the wire connections on your starter (like the wire to the solenoid). If that's corroded, it can cause problems like you're having too. Finally, if you did clean any corrosion of the battery cables, bear in mind that that can also creep up under the wire insulation where it causes problems without you really seeing it. Keep us posted on what you learn.
Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 05-20-2019 at 09:48 PM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Yes that's what I was referring to the light on the ECU under the seat. The info I had read said to turn the ignition key to position 2 then look at the ecu under the seat for lights.
I'll check to see if the CEL is on at start. Can't say I look for it, I just know a lot of lights are flashing as I start it. It always cranks strong, just sounds terrible and seems to be fighting itself, for a few attempts then it finally starts and runs great.
I can see the CEL is on at start.
When starting the car, leave the key on position "II" before starting it. This allows the fuel pump to prime if needed. Basically, you wait for the Check engine light to turn off.
You jump it straight from 0 to III or I to III on the video.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
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