Leaking Oil (I want to cry).

[OptimusPrimeSr]

also, for this work I'm doing, is it necessary to detach and set aside the AC compressor unit, Alternator, and PS pump?

Just checked my haynes manual and it says detach that shit...but sounds like a head ache.

[russiankid]

Seems to be. And no you do not have to remove anything but the belts.

[Oldblueaccord]

first set of parts arrived, but I didn't notice until about an hour ago and it was too close to sunset to begin.

Anyway, I went ahead and installed a few misc parts and removed the black plastic protective shield up under the front bumper. The driver's side was caked in oil and dirt...passenger side was clean. Sprayed it with degreaser, hosed it off, and its drying in the back. So now I have a better view of the driver's side of the engine from up under and oil is everywhere. I'll snap a few pics tomorrow morning before I begin the work.

Oh, and what's this tube (outlined in red)?

Thats the hose I am saying add hose clamps too cuz it can leak. Its really a bitch to change out without the oil pan off the hose is very stiff. I wold just add clamps to it.


Also with the MC you can put it on the car and then bleed it out. It will keep you from pushing the plunger to far in and messing it up. Just pump it with the pedal.


wp

[lostforawhile]

that hose always leaks, i have one thats not that old and it's already leaking, the oil seems to dissolve it. changing all those fittings to threaded and going AN on all of it, so no more leaks. the box is already all threaded fittings.

[russiankid]

I have a hose from Autozone that has been in there for 5 or 6 years now leak free.

[OptimusPrimeSr]

quick pics from up under of oil leakage...


and from the wheel well...



Now...god damn pulley (water pump?)...soaking in PB-Blaster (penetrating lubricant) along with crankshaft pulley bolt to see if that helps... any trick in removal? I just tried a short 1/2" socket extension jammed in one of the holes, but when I started to wrench down on the bolt, the pulley started to warp...

the hole underlined is the one that was threaded with the socket extension...damage = negligible...hopefully will not need to be replaced.

[OptimusPrimeSr]

ok, soaking the waterpump pulley bolts in PB-Blaster did the trick...

now, as for the tensioner seal, I assume that's simply a bolt that I can unscrew...lol the haynes manual just shows a hand pulling it out...why don't the call it the tensioner bolt?

edit: yeah a little PB Blaster and that finally came loose. I was just a little concerned about possibly stripping it or torquing the head off...read a few horror stories when researching it.

game on!

[lostforawhile]

i would start from the top down, new valve cover seal,they leak all the time, dizzy o ring seal,they do the same, have you gotten under the car and looked at the oil pump adaptor where it bolts to the block? there's a special o ring in there that leaks all the time. little bit tricky but with patience and a torque wrench,not too bad. how old is your timing belt? have you checked it for oil? the cam seal can leak and oil runs down inside of the belt cover. and drips out the bottom. what about the grommets that hold on the vlave cover? they should come with a valve cover gasket. they can leak and the oil runs down the corner of the valve cover.what about the crank and the oil pan? this sounds like a lot,but when you get done,even if one at a time, you will have solved all your leaks for a long time. these gaskets get old is all.

[OptimusPrimeSr]

BOOM got the crank pulley bolt off...using a combination of a large flat head jammed in the timing hole on the tranny side of the engine as well as 2x 5/8" bolts in the pulley hole with a floor jack bar wedged between and forced against the frame. Then I just squat thrusted the bitch loose with my 24" breaker bar with a 1.5' 1/2" extension.

LUNCH BREAK!

[OptimusPrimeSr]

i would start from the top down, new valve cover seal,they leak all the time, dizzy o ring seal,they do the same, have you gotten under the car and looked at the oil pump adaptor where it bolts to the block? there's a special o ring in there that leaks all the time. little bit tricky but with patience and a torque wrench,not too bad. how old is your timing belt? have you checked it for oil? the cam seal can leak and oil runs down inside of the belt cover. and drips out the bottom. what about the grommets that hold on the vlave cover? they should come with a valve cover gasket. they can leak and the oil runs down the corner of the valve cover.what about the crank and the oil pan? this sounds like a lot,but when you get done,even if one at a time, you will have solved all your leaks for a long time. these gaskets get old is all.

ty, checking all that.

another GA member...good deal. lol Moultre?

[Dr_Snooz]

You seem to be struggling with frozen bolts. Try this thread:

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...=rusted+frozen

Think especially about the "hillbilly impact" method. I use it the most.

[lostforawhile]

BOOM got the crank pulley bolt off...using a combination of a large flat head jammed in the timing hole on the tranny side of the engine as well as 2x 5/8" bolts in the pulley hole with a floor jack bar wedged between and forced against the frame. Then I just squat thrusted the bitch loose with my 24" breaker bar with a 1.5' 1/2" extension.

LUNCH BREAK!

they say install the crank seal dry,but try coating it with permatex high temp thread sealant, the outside of it,before you drive it in. it will set up and help stop oil from leaking around the seal. it comes in a small white tube, advance carries it,about 4.95. if you are cheap,get some indian head gasket shellack and do the same thing. the permatex is supposed to be for pipe threads,but it works well to seal the outside of drive in seals as well. any airtight gap like that.

[OptimusPrimeSr]

now that the site has been un-hacked...

after lunch on Sunday, I managed to get the rest of the stuff disassembled fairly easily. The seals on the engine...all dry...all good. This was reassuring since they should have all been replaced 15k miles ago when the engine was replaced.

So here's where the leak is coming from...
1. a little from the oil pan gasket.
2. a little from the breather hose attached to the oil pan.
3. a decent amount from the AC compressor.

So while I'm going to replace 1 and 2 above this weekend, I'm trying to figure out what to do about 3. The oil from the AC compressor was being sprayed everywhere by the pulley and belt, and because the was NO seal on the lower timing cover, it had gotten behind there. Should I just remove the belt for now while its cold? This would buy me some research time.

Questions:
- Is there an aftermarket crank pulley with hex pattern that can accept the crank tool? This would make future timing work much easier.
- How necessary is the timing cover seal? I ordered a new one and then put everything back together...like a dumbass...the new seal will arrive on Friday...so I'm thinking I might as well install it before torquing down the crank bolt....

[OptimusPrimeSr]

ugh...dug a little deeper with the oil-leaking-compressor research and there doesn't appear to be a good (=cheap/quick) solution. I think I'm just going to remove the belt for now. It will be easier to convince myself that I need AC if I wait for the weather to warm up.

so next weekend, (possibly the weekend - might have to go visit the mother-in-law this coming weekend), tune in for an oil pan gasket change and a breather tube and clamp replacement. I'll check the oil filter base gasket (but am 99% sure its fine and was replaced 15k miles ago).

That will take care of the oil leak (aside from the gd ac compressor). after that, I should be back to regular maintenance ;-)

[Dr_Snooz]

I wouldn't worry too much about the timing cover seal.

If you haven't had a lot of trouble with your AC compressor before now, be grateful. It's your time now. It might be possible to reseal it. If you haven't already, it's definitely time to convert to R134. If you have a Keihin compressor, just throw it away and buy a Nippondenso.

[lostforawhile]

I wouldn't worry too much about the timing cover seal.

If you haven't had a lot of trouble with your AC compressor before now, be grateful. It's your time now. It might be possible to reseal it. If you haven't already, it's definitely time to convert to R134. If you have a Keihin compressor, just throw it away and buy a Nippondenso.

you need to find one in a junkyard first, the bracket and hoses are different. may need to locate the bracket and buy a rebuilt compressor.

[OptimusPrimeSr]

"A" for Anarchy. Those two small bolts where attached through the holes on the crank pulley, and the red floor jack arm was wedged between them to hold the shaft. Notice how the bolts are bent...


Locking the flywheel with my big flat head. I had to go out and buy this one since my formerly biggest flat head was not enough and popped right out when I cranked down on the breaker bar trying to loosen the crank bolt.


Clean front crank and oilpump seals. The block seems to be coated in a glossy-black-finish which makes it fun for pinpointing oil leaks

[OptimusPrimeSr]

checked with Majestic on Friday and the parts had to be special ordered so they won't ship out until early next week...sigh.

[w261w261]

<< If you haven't had a lot of trouble with your AC compressor before now, be grateful. It's your time now. It might be possible to reseal it. If you haven't already, it's definitely time to convert to R134. If you have a Keihin compressor, just throw it away and buy a Nippondenso. >>

Not necessarily "definitely time to convert." R134 loses you a good piece of cooling power, so you don't get that real cool punch that you might be used to. My (knock on wood) original compressor/system was recharged with Freon in 2001 when I bought the car. Two summers ago I added one can, which cost me 29 bucks I think. If your system is sealed well, the high cost of Freon is not really an issue, and the higher cooling is usually welcomed.

[griffonks]

I usually attach a chain to bolts thru the pully holes and rout thye chain around the frame. The bolts don't bend over like the ones that you pictured. I was afraid that the pulley might deform but so far no problem

[OptimusPrimeSr]

I usually attach a chain to bolts thru the pully holes and rout thye chain around the frame. The bolts don't bend over like the ones that you pictured. I was afraid that the pulley might deform but so far no problem

this is a good idea...ty.

-------------------------------------------
UPDATE: after further inspection, the oil is not leaking out of the AC compressor, but actually dripping down from the power steering motor. Will do a little research and then call the shop and complain. \

Also, the rest of parts are arriving later this week.

[russiankid]

You can also make a tool for the pump pulley. This tool is for my BMW to get the fan off(as pictured), but I used it on the 3gen and it worked wonders. Took me 5 minutes to get the pulley off.

Tool is on the left.

[russiankid]

You can also make a tool for the pump pulley. This tool is for my BMW to get the fan off(as pictured), but I used it on the 3gen and it worked wonders. Took me 5 minutes to get the pulley off. All you do is put one bolt into the hole and lean the rest of the tool against the next bolt. The pump then cannot spin and you can get the bolts off.

Tool is on the left.

[OptimusPrimeSr]

i like that idea alot...will definitely be making one of those tools. TY

[lostforawhile]

this is a good idea...ty.

-------------------------------------------
UPDATE: after further inspection, the oil is not leaking out of the AC compressor, but actually dripping down from the power steering motor. Will do a little research and then call the shop and complain. \

Also, the rest of parts are arriving later this week.

you can get a kit and rebuild the PS pump yourself easy, also it might be the o ring where the high pressure hose attaches.