It can't hurt to try. Basemap on the P75 is probably going to be pretty damn close to what you would want and would eliminate the secondary O2 codes.
I am running damn near prefect on a stock PR4. Passed emissions way better than with the obd0 PJ0, power and fuel milage were improved as well. I'm getting 30-32 city and 38-41 highway. P75 should be a bit richer than the PR4, probably perfect for the B20A.
88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.Originally Posted by stat1K
yeah obd1 makes these cars run good
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
update, all was going good everything seemed ok. Yesterday I finished the exhaust and went for a long drive. I made it out of the driveway which really is a long drive. It hasnt left the garage in 3 years.
Anyways the differential soundslike its fighting itself. Jack up the car and it sounds great. It doesnt matter if its in gear or out of gear but if you drive the transmission with engine power it grinds, moans, clunks and otherwise seems broken to me. Ive got the stock diff Ill install just to be sure and Ive alreeady sent an emailt o quaife asking them questions. Te diff was new and has been sitting on my shelf for 4 years looked great and mint. The only other thing I can think of its fighting the pseedo drive gear which Ill pull out just to be sure.
The engine has always purred even with no idle circiut. Today when I started it the dang thing wanted to idle lower than normal and die. Easy fix, up the idle an 1/8th of a turn. I let it warm up and waited to make sure everything else seemed ok and started driving. I couldnt get it to idle past 1200 rpm. Its acting like its bouncing off the rev limiter. Affter pulling the plugs though they are so overheated and tan the entire electrode is burnt not even just the tip. the tune Ive got is not going to work. Ill try the stock cchip that came with my P06 and Ive also got an unmolested P75 Ill try out just to be sure.
The intake still needs a filter as pics will show and unfortunatly pics will have to wait. we havent had rain in seattle for over a month and today its pouring. This will also give me a chance to swap out IACV and throttle bodies again to see if i can get one of them to work even better.
Oh on a side not, how can I check and see what flywheel Ive got. i bought this one from 86preludeb20 or whatever his name is and the transmission case is shawing signs of wear as if the pressure plate is digging into the case like the b20a5 flywheel would. That would suck since I paid extra for the stock JDM B20A flywheel.
well in the bad news column I can say my coupe didnt make the meet and the hatch couldnt go because I had to hack up the exhaust to put it on the coupe. Since Im now on less of a time restraint should I bag on the "just get it running" routine and go back to the turbo program.
The speedshop i talked with about chagepiping had said my T3 should be fine on a stock engine since its technically small for my application evean at a 60/63. Basically all I need is the tuning software, piping and ijectors done. I can start installing it and fab it as i go or should I just try it get back to driveable. I wont be able to afford the parts I need for a while since I have no job but I do have most of the parts needed anyways.
Ok back on topic, Wprocomp did me a great favor and shipped me the DC lower tie bar and I got it on thrusday with the intent of tossing it on. Ill post pics when it stops raining and I get a chance to install it.
I went down to my parents place to grab my other ecu but it turned out it was a P28 vtec ecu not the P75 I thought it was. I wonder how it would run if I kept it below the vtec limit switch. any thoughts or opinions?
Last edited by mykwikcoupe; 06-22-2009 at 02:04 PM.
get it chipped and disable the vtec bro
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
well Ive been a little pissed at the car since I missed the portland update. Im yet to turn a wrench on it again. Im thinking its time to bolt the turbo back onto it again and go from there. My 1st project is to finish the interior. I need to swap the dash since my is currently black/tan and my interior is black/grey. When I have it removed Im debating if I should remove all the a/c componets? Ive read that its a major weight savings and here in washington we really dont need it but for a few months a year. keep in mind this is not going to be an every day car. What do you guys think?
Ive already got the engine bay free from such clutter including the condensor. i was thinking of having a radiator shop make me a custom radiator that fits the size and mounting of the condensor saving me a good 2-3 inches of room between the stock radiator and turbo. That or the idea was to get pusher fans and mount them on the side of the condensor. Its easier but will it really save much room?
on a second note the car hasnt moves or ran so I cannot update on the condition of sounds, qwerks or happenings.
Ditch the A/C, I know I will. I never use mine, no matter how "hot" it gets. Windows down, speed up.
sure charlie only I think if you could get a nice pair of shoes and cut the floor out of your car, you'd gladly do it to say your the most minimalistic. I think that when i removed the condensor I made up my mind. Im just seeing if anyone has an objection to doing so. It didnt work, the ac system adds at least 100 lbs, and imagine all the room I could gain for important things down the road.
yeah if you are not going to drive it as a daily dont use the a/c...im taking mine off
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
and you live in cali. thats really saying something there
yeah in the bay area....we are spoiled...hottest it gets here is around 90ish and coldest is around low 60s....but yeah i bought mine with out working ac so it never worked....im still keeping my coupe...that has ac just needs freon
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Ok so i went in the garage and started looking at the engine again. my tb is from a mustang fox body and the adapter plate Im using doesnt allow for the sensor/valve behind the tb. I think its an IACV but Im not sure. Since Im obd1 and there is no passageway to to the valve, im wondering if I can just delete it and block off the hoses.
Also if I did disable the sensor can i make up for it or remove it from the tune in my obd1 swap? Thanks for the heads up guys.
http://www.preludeonline.com/f91/how...-plate-118675/ I found my answer. i posted after about 3 hours of reading and 30 minutes later I happen across this install. He doesnt mention a code and i believe i read that in crome pro you can diable the IAC code. We have very subtle weather here in teh NW so i dont think ill need it. im going to delete as many coolant lines off the car as well.
goinmg out today to clean up the interior a little more. Im going to start pulling the dash to swap in the all black one. id like to run the wiring for the folding fogs, power folding mirrors and a few other add ons while I have it out of the way and I can incorporate it better into the overall function of the car.
Ill try to get and post better pics depending on how clean it really turns out. Id love to be able to show off the led gauges but bitesize still hasnt returned them after # months. I think if i get time tonight Ill pull off the stock header and start bolting on the turbo manifold and getting it all ready to go as well.
If anyone knows how to remove the seem bump from the rear glass rubber trim without messing anything up. Maybe I dont have it lined up correctly or? Ive swapped a few interiors but this is the 1st to have an obvious issue with the seem. Ill post a pic of what i mean.
Actually, it's just the fact that I hate A/C. It's too cold, no matter how low I set it.
yeah. Justa quick update. i pulled the dash and realized i forget to grab the little side mouldings on either side of the dash above the kick panels. i had to paint my tan ones black. i hope the paint i chose works. they are a very low impact place and 80% of them are covered by the dash anyways.
I pulled the ac heat exchanger so i can plug the holes and dont have 2 empty conduits sticking out of the firewall never to be used again. the next time Im at the JY Ill find a dx and grab the firewall plugs for it. I didnt realize the exchanger was made from very lightweight aluminum. I bet the whole assembly weighs less than 5 lbs. Not much for weight savings. Not wahat I was going for anyways.
Ill get the black dash reinstalled when i get help managing it into the car. I dont want to scratch anything. Ill take pictures then. I do need to swap vin tags and get the old one riveted back in place. The ac duct was full of old dried leaves and debris. Im not sure how they got into there since ive never parked it under a tree. must be from one of the previous owners.
I need to jump under my house and grab the floor mats and a few other parts to help spruce up the inside of the car. For my second ever dash removal it went pretty easy. This will be my 1st dash install. I hope it lines up and falls back into place.
Charlie I think you meant to say no matter how high I set it. You do realize the ac is more of a drier than a cooling device. if you want to turn the heat up and keep the ac on it still works and doesnt have to be cold.
Dash is in. VIN tags swapped and looks so close to original I dont think someone would notice if you pionted it out. My interior is now officially all black plastics and grey leathers. I do have a few knicks in the plastics ill swap out as the parts come available. The leather is in 98* good shape. I have 2 small dime sized tears on top of the rear saets from sun fading and the drivers seat has some cracking but no tears or worn through spots. When you consider the interior has been moved through 3 cars and been in a 60MPH accident it looks fantastic.
I just finish cleaning it all up again. i need to go and wash the windows onemore time to remove the last of the interior dressing overspray. The 4th application made it super slick and shiny. Its normally a nice matte lustre. I guess it wasnt design for repeated applications in a single setting.
I need to get my gauges back from bitesize and I can assemble the cluster. Id like to swap in one of my nice decks as a headunit but not sure thats the routs the car is going to take. Id like super clean, good all around sound much like the new bose sytems. Not a ton of exposed components maybe just a set of tweets in the doors and a fiberglass spare tire box later. I dont want to run a ton of wiring through it again.
Ill let you guys decide. i cant take a great photoshoot like I would like simply because I dont feel like pushing the car to it. Pics to come tonight hopefully tomorrow at the latest. id really like an honest rating of what to change, what would make it pop, and what doesnt fit in the overall look. Ill see how many parts can be noticed as "hey, whats that doing in there?"
You can get that missing trim piece. Symmetry for the win! Or, un-break your power-folding fogs. I want to come up and see your car again.
If you wanna keep it simple with the stereo, you should do like I'm going to do in my 84. I've got a mid-90s Alpine CD player (no bullshit LEDS or mp3 playback and all that bullshit) and I'm hooking it into a period matched EQ that has a separate sub-out and tweaks for the speakers separately. I think the older decks are better because they're not crammed full of useless bullshit features, and they blend in nicely with the look of the car.
If you've got tears in your seats, nothing makes a car look 100% more amazing then getting them professionally recovered. I don't know if that's something you can do now, but definitely something down the road.
the tears arent visible from inside the car and once i get the windows tinted they wont be visible at all. They are up on top of the seat facing the rear glass. I suppose if I folded it down they may be. Professional recovering is great but hardly ever looks stock as well. Im going for a more casual pimp look. Like the subtloe things that make you wonder why the car looks so different. Id love to put more jdm goodness into it but all the goodies have already been had (carotman, that means you).
I do have quite a bit but not as much as I would like. Im sure anyone on here that reads alot of threads or has been around a while would know right away whats changed but to the average hondaholic Im sure they would know it looks different but now know why.
And the most recent picture of Mike's kwikcoupe:
Oh, we mustn't forget the "work" hatch (and Charlie's coupe, and a random Mexi sedan):
mike...go work on the coupe
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
all it needs is an exhaust and a tune. Unfortunatly I cant afford a tune since I havent worked since april. The economy sucks up here right now. Im hoping to get down and steal charlies old coupe exhaust and pup a new muffler on it. I just need to find time to do it. i wish I found one with better original paint but after looking for 2 years I settled on this one. The interior is 95%, the suspension, undercarraige is 96%, the engine and bay 95% but the paint is more like 60%. No bodywork, everything is original but as you can see the clear is fading. Thats after 4 years in a garage even. This is what happens when you dont wax a car
yeahmy car is not clean...it needs lots of body work....i need to find some one that can do it at his house for little to no money...and a pack of beer
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
wish i was there....i would do that LOL...i did my car
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
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