SO how would i take out the ps on are cars...i heard many things...like just taking the lines out..but im affair of loosing oil in there...i rather have some then any....I also heard of looping the lines...which lines..??
SO how would i take out the ps on are cars...i heard many things...like just taking the lines out..but im affair of loosing oil in there...i rather have some then any....I also heard of looping the lines...which lines..??
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
take it out till its broke
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
lol....its works like a champ now...ill prolly just take the belt off at the track
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
werdOriginally Posted by Rendon LX-i
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
i was surprised at how much the alternator & p/s stole power from the motor (probably cause of my way too tight belts) it wasnt much but it was noticeable when ripping through 1st & 2nd
mine went for 2 years without it and the lines just choped off before the rack started going out(by going out i mean if i turned the steering wheel all the way one way and tried to turn it back it wouldent it would just lock up and i would have to beat the shit out of the steering wheel)
but mind you my rack was having problems before i even pulled the ps and was leaking hella bad from the rack its self
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
I've heard of guys just running a hose connecting the inlet and outlet, leaving whatever fuild is in there. Not sure how long they lasted though.
'87 accord lx-I sedan: Koni adj, struts, Progress sport springs, ST sway bars, spec. prod. camber kits, dc strut bar, msd blaster 2 coil, ngk plugs and Ractive 9mm wires. Erebuni bodykit and Wings West trunk spoiler.
you know some of the newer cars have ps with an electric clutch like the AC,above a certain speed the racks revert to manual anyway,so the clutches keep the pump freewheeling to save fuel. i'm sure one could be adapted over
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php
Our racks are similar, so most of this does transfer over to our cars.
Take everything out and loop the two lines at the rear crossmember. Leave a little fluid in the lines or not its up to you. been running mine psing less for about 2 years no with no problems.
1986 Honda Accord Lx-i
~~NGK~~Silvania~~MSD~~Pioneer~~MSW~~Bosch~~DC Sports~~115WHP 116WTQ
I've done this to a Miata and an Accord rack. The Accord rack valving is setup differently so you need to secure the pinion holder or you'll end up some extra slack between the pinion and the rack.
Mike
When you say "secure the pinion holder", does that mean something other than adjusting it?
C|
umm very interesting... so looping the lines affect how the valve is working? or like say the pump is moving that valve to make it work.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
The pinion holder has no adjustment. You need to keep it from rotating. I should have some photos around that detail the process. I'll post them once I find them.
Mike
The part I'm thinking of is #5 and #8 here:
If you mean something else then I'm all ears. I depowered my (Prelude) rack and it still has a little slop, which I thought was just simple gear lash, which there isn't any way to fix.
C|
before my car was totalled i had to take out the p/s system cuz the right side blew a seal and there was an explosion of fluid all over the floor haha.. but i just removed the pump and all surrounding lines that involved the p/s.. she ran fine with no problems at all.. not sure if it was good for the rack running it w/o oil but eh i had no choice
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
The pinion holder is the lowest part in the #9 grouping.
The part I'm thinking of is #5 and #8 here:
If you mean something else then I'm all ears. I depowered my (Prelude) rack and it still has a little slop, which I thought was just simple gear lash, which there isn't any way to fix.
C|
Mike
same here. i got home one day and noticed a trail behind me. once i figured out it wasn't engine oil or water, i didn't really care one bit. that was almost two years ago and my steering still works fine. i've been thinking of pulling the pump and stuff but just been too lazy to.
ummm well im cutting the belt in portland LOL
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Ahh, yes. That's the part that pushes the shuttle valve back and forth to send the fluid to the correct side of the rack. But as I recall that part doesn't do anything once you remove the power assist. I removed the valve on mine so that it wouldn't ever buildup any pressure (probably overkill). The pinion shaft is on bearings so I don't see why you couldn't just remove the pinion holder altogether.
C|
just remove it foo
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
HAha...yeah i need to guy. Just the lines an all..ill do it when i get my other setup going...
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
The pinion bearings locate the pinion shaft in the pinion holder. The pinion shaft axis is offset from the pinion holder's axis. When you turn the steering wheel, part of the motion moves the pinion holder the opposite direction you're trying to move the rack. The pinion holder doesn't do anything USEFUL without the power assist, but there is no easy way to remove it.
Mike
Ok, now I see what you mean. The upper pinion bearing is in the rack case but the lower one is in the pinion holder. And the pinion holder has its own (somewhat limited) rotation that moves the shuttle valve. So if the pinion holder has any slop in it that slop will translate to the meshing of the rack with the pinion. Well how annoying is that? So the ultimate solution here would be to replace the whole pinion holder and valve mechanism with something that simply supports the lower end of the pinion shaft with a bearing.
C|
shit man if you live close to me ill help you remove it.. its not hard at all..
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
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