Nars Accord Hatch

[scars_of_carma]

Hi everybody I'm looking forward to contributing to this forum. I've been trolling for weeks but I screwed up my authorization so I couldn't post until now. In the meantime I've been working on my new 86 Accord Hatch.

A little about myself. I'm no stranger to modifying cars... I've had an 81 VW Scirocco "S", A datsun 280ZX-R, three S5 FC's, An SP-RX3, A 1st Gen RX7, a MKIII Supra, my 5 series BMW and now my Honda.

I was working at a speed shop for a few years but now I am starting my own web-based business. I am an HPDE Driving Instructor at my local track as well as a drifting coach/judge. I also competed in some rally-x and auto-x events but I am most passionate about touge. I rented a house in one of the best driving-canyons around here for that reason.

So this is my Accord. It was abandoned in a lot for 10 years after it rear-ended someone. It was free.

Here are some pics of the first week of disassembly:








I looks better now but I don't have my cell phone camera anymore so more pics are pending. BTW I am curious if these stats are accurate? I was trying to compare these accords to other Honda's of the same era.

1986-1989 Accord CA1/2/3/4/5/6 (3rd gen)
Wheelbase: 102.4 in
Length: 174.8 in
Width: 66.7 in
Height: 52.6 in
Curb weight: 2454 lbs in 86 < *edit* thanks Turabaka
Engine:
A20A3 110 hp @ 5500 rpm & 114 ft·lbs @ 4500 rpm, 6200 redline, 12v SOHC FI
120 hp@ 5500 rpm & 122 ft·lbs @ 4000 rpm, 12v SOHC FI <88-89
Hp-to-weight: 23.3 <> 20.45*
Tq-to-weight: 21.52 <> 20.11*

1986-1989 Teggy AV, DA1-DA3 (1st gen)
Wheelbase: 96.5 in
Length: 168.7 in
Width: 65.6 in
Height: 50.8 in
Curb weight: 2313-2355 lbs
Engine: D16A1 113 bhp @ 6250 & 99 ft-lbs @ 5500, 16v DOHC FI "browntop"
120 bhp @ 6250 & 101 ft-lbs @ 5500, 16v DOHC FI "blacktop" <88-89
Hp-to-weight: 20.8 <> 19.2
Tq-to-weight: 23.7 <> 22.9

1990-1993 Teggy DA5-DA9, DB1-DB2 (2nd gen)
Wheelbase: 100.4 in
Length: 172.8 in
Width: 67.4 in
Height: 52.2 in
Curb weight: 2544-2628 lbs
Engine:
B16A1 148 bhp @ 7600 rpm111ftlbs@7000,8200redline,16v DOHC FI VTEC
B17A1 160 hp @ 7600 rpm & 118 ft·lbs @ 7000 rpm, 7500redline?16v DOHC FI VTEC
B18A1 130 bhp @ 6000 rpm & 121 ft·lbs @ 5000 rpm, 7200 redline,16v DOHC FI
B18A1 140 bhp @ 6300 rpm & 126 ft·lbs @ 5000 rpm, 16v DOHC FI <92-93

1993-01 Teggy DC4 [LS, RS, GS] or a DC2 [GS-R] (3rd gen)
Wheelbase: 101.2 in
Length: 172.4 in
Width: 67.3 in
Height: 52.6 in
Curb weight: 2529-2667 lbs
Engine:
B18B1 142 hp @ 6300 rpm & 127 ft·lbs @ 5200 rpm, 6800 redline, 16v DOHCFI
B18C1 170 hp @ 7100 rpm & 128 ft·lbs @ 6200 rpm,16v DOHC FI VTEC
B18C5 195 hp @ 8200 rpm & 130 ft·lbs @ 7500 rpm, 16v DOHC FI VTEC

1983-87 Prelude AB, BA1/2/3/6, BB (2nd gen)
Wheelbase: 96.5 in
Length: 172.2 in
Width: 66.5 in
Height: 51 in
Curb weight: 2306-2954 lbs
Engine: A18A 110 hp @ 5800 rpm & 112 ft·lbf @ 3500 rpm, 12V SOHC, Carbed
2.0 S B20A3 104 hp @ 5800 rpm & 111 lb·ft @ 4000 rpm, 12V SOHC, Carbed
2.0Si B20A5 135 hp @ 6200 rpm & 127 lb·ft @ 4000 rpm, 16V DOHC FI
Hp-to-weight: 24.4 <> 17
Tq-to-weight: 26.6 <> 18.1

1988-1991 Prelude BA3/4/5/7 (3rd gen)
Wheelbase: 101 in
Length: 175.6 in
Width: 67.3 in
Height: 51 in
Curb weight: 2337-2954 lbs
Engine:
2.0 S B20A3 104 hp @ 5800 rpm & 111 lb·ft @ 4000 rpm, 12V SOHC, Carbed
2.0 Si B20A5 135 hp @ 6200 rpm & 127 lb·ft @ 4000 rpm, 16V DOHC FI
Si B21A1 140 hp @ 5800 rpm & 135 lb·ft @ 5000 rpm, 16v DOHC FI <90-91

[MiguelValente]

Nice! Thaks for saving that little honda! hehehe

Good luck with your project!

Regards!

[Joay]

1986-1989 Accord CA1/2/3/4/5/6 (3rd gen)
Curb weight: 2513-2564 lbs

That sounds a little light to me, but I'd be psyched if someone could corroborate that as correct. Great job hammering out the 3G! Almost no one would take a second look at an Accord in that shape, although it looks like the chassis fared pretty well.

[turabaka]

That sounds a little light to me, but I'd be psyched if someone could corroborate that as correct. Great job hammering out the 3G! Almost no one would take a second look at an Accord in that shape, although it looks like the chassis fared pretty well.

According to the faq lx-i hatches weighed 2454 lbs in 86.
Here's the linky. https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9293

Welcome to the board. Glad you finally got all the account stuff sorted out.

[Civic Accord Honda]

w000t hatchie touge project ftmfw

[Rendon LX-i]

Nope...sounds right...i put mine on those grain scales where semies weight there grain. with me out of the car and with 5 fives at the time. and stock everthing it was 2,530 or something if i remeber right...but it was under 2600. so thats right as for sedans and hatchys as for coupes they a bit heavyer for the better bracing that was made since it was a coupe....

[Pico]

Great Project car
Welcome to the Forum

[scars_of_carma]

That sounds a little light to me, but I'd be psyched if someone could corroborate that as correct. Great job hammering out the 3G! Almost no one would take a second look at an Accord in that shape, although it looks like the chassis fared pretty well.

Yes it was kinda brave of me to fix it. My BMW threw its timing belt recently and bent all the valves that's why I decided to work on another car. I did some custom body work on my MkIII Supra so I kind of knew what to expect. Also I knew the Honda ran great before it was wrecked so it was worth the trouble.

The chassis is perfectly straight behind the bumper supports. It's hard to see much detail in those pics but everything else was badly bent. I had to remove all the radiator bracing and sheet metal around the headlights with my grinder. I left the lower radiator support because its more important as a structural piece but it's slightly twisted.

After that I re-attached the bumper support which was also bent. However with some creative shimming the bumper cover hides that. Finally a new passenger side fender and hood makes it resemble something like its former self. I still have no idea what I'm gonna use for headlights the former pop-ups aren't an option anymore. Maybe I'll get creative like I did with my Supra. I retrofitted Z32 headlights on it instead of pop-ups lol.

Welcome to the board. Glad you finally got all the account stuff sorted out.

Yes I wanna thank you and everyone else that tried to help.

Nope...sounds right...i put mine on those grain scales where semies weight there grain. with me out of the car and with 5 fives at the time. and stock everthing it was 2,530 or something if i remeber right...but it was under 2600. so thats right as for sedans and hatchys as for coupes they a bit heavyer for the better bracing that was made since it was a coupe....

*nods* Well I'll give my car the benefit of the doubt since its completely gutted right now. There's a scale at the local landfill I think I'll try and use it one of these days.

w000t hatchie touge project ftmfw

Word ...you touge?

[scars_of_carma]

I installed some old-school Skunkworks springs and perches tonight. The total height of the car is now less then 50" which means it's been lowered at least 3.5". The stance is very nice now I wish I could take pics.

[MessyHonda]

nice stuff...good to see you are fixing up the car

[Civic Accord Honda]

Word ...you touge?

I will with my next car project

[scars_of_carma]

I will with my next car project

What's your next project gonna be?

[Civic Accord Honda]

What's your next project gonna be?

ether another 3g or DX 4th gen leaning towards the 4th gen since i happen to see more of them for sale and most of the time cheaper lol going to start looking for one after the holidays

i'm keeping my current accord stock for comfort and reliability

[markmdz89hatch]

damn damn damn damn damn, I wish you were closer. I have been picking the brains of HPDE instructors, and a few local racers for years now and playing at auto-x and even a short course at Skippy. I just wish I could really spend some time working with an HPDE instructor and get some cool tips on flinging the car around.

Did I say damn? ok, if not... ..DAMMIT!

[scars_of_carma]

damn damn damn damn damn, I wish you were closer. I have been picking the brains of HPDE instructors, and a few local racers for years now and playing at auto-x and even a short course at Skippy. I just wish I could really spend some time working with an HPDE instructor and get some cool tips on flinging the car around.

Did I say damn? ok, if not... ..DAMMIT!

I know what you mean everyone would be better off with a good driving mentor. I managed to learn in the mountains and canyons but I don't recommend it. Learn your limits on the track its safer.

I dunno what kind of tips your after? I just started practicing how to drive the FF layout properly but feel free to pose some questions... if I don't have an answer right away it'll stick in the back of my mind until I figure it out. I call it unconscious analysis and that's just how my brain works. I love a good driving challenge

Tonight I am installing KYB shocks and a thicker swaybar (1" vs 3/4") off an 87 Legend. These shocks definitely have a stiffer dampening/rebound rate then those on my Accord. I'm guessing its because the Acura sedan is much heavier with a big V6 upfront. They should suite my Skunkworks springs better. (Ideally I would use adjustables to match the springs)

[scars_of_carma]

Hmm well turns out the Legend lower shock mounts are not identical to the Accord's because the shock itself is a few millimeters larger in diameter. No big deal but if you are stripping shocks off a Legend grab those too.

[scars_of_carma]

Tonight I am installing KYB shocks and a thicker swaybar (1" vs 3/4") off an 87 Legend.

Acura swaybar will not fit on an accord unless your willing to grind stuff. I did get the Acura lower mounts for the shocks. (I should have put them back on when I removed the shocks in the first place)... ...So the shocks are mounted now and lookin good.

[scars_of_carma]

So I went for a spin earlier today with the new struts and springs installed. I must say, this is the lowest and harshest-riding car I've ever driven. With the stock setup the car had a great ride now it's bone-jarring. The stock seats actually make it worse because of their springiness. You feel like your always bouncing but it hurts lol ...a proper racing seat would be nice

What's also clear is I need a wheel/tire upgrade... these 13" steelies with 8 year old 185/70's are not cutting it. Even so I am not disappointed with the car at all. Hondas are fun!

[scars_of_carma]

My home course is not clear during the day... too many cyclists. I run all my cars at the same cruising pace during the day. However since yesterday my Honda has working headlights so tonight I was able to kick the pace up a notch or two and take it on its virgin touge run.

One thing I noticed immediately is how stiff and responsive a lightweight hatchback feels. The Honda chassis feels stiffer then say my 1st gen RX7 did. The steering ratio is damn quick. I can use the big OEM steering wheel without complaint. I still think there's too much pedal travel though in the clutch and the throttle. I can't shift or heal-toe that quickly which kinda fucks up my timing and my rhythm. I'll have to get used to that.

These seats are awful even worse then the BMW's... I have to hang onto the steering wheel to stay seated and that's dangerous. Your arms should not be tense on the steering wheel.

I hoped the suspension would smooth itself out more at higher speeds but that isn't the case. I felt more air under the tires than I ever did in my Supra or BMW and at slower speeds.

Considering this I dunno why anyone would mount these springs on anything but a serious track car? ...Speaking of which I would really love to drive this car on a smooth track I think it would do well. On the touge however it needs work...

I also noticed how easy it is to spin the inside tire in a hairpin. I didn't expect that from a FWD but that's why I'm trying to learn. As for the setup I am open to suggestions before I ditch it altogether?

For starters I am going to lower tire pressure. That should help traction in the hairpins and may smooth out the ride.

[markmdz89hatch]

ok, now let's talk suspension....

1. I'm very happy to see an experienced HDPE guy realize the fun that this chassis really is.

2. Yes, the seats do leave quite a bit to be desired, but considering they were selected for their comfort and not lateral G 'stay-put', they serve their intended purpose pretty well. For a dirt cheap 'upgrade' I'd look into snagging a seat from an 88-89 DX coupe. For some reason I find they have better, stiffer, bolsters which help quite a bit. Or you could always go the cheap ebay route, but they're not certified. (dammit)

3. Steering wheel and steering rack ratio are very good fits for the car, but a slightly smaller wheel could benefit you and get the wheel a tiny bit closer.

4. Clutch... ...remember this is a mechanical clutch (ie. no hydro) so you can just take out all slack in the cable by tightening up the adjustment nut on the tranny end of the cable and that should pick up the pedal engagement a bit. Sorta out of luck on the throttle unless you want to start screwing with the pivot point on the pedal itself.

5. Now let's talk turkey. Can we get full disclosure on not just your spring setup, but shocks, anti-sway bars, endlink bushings on said anti-sway bars, control arm bushings, shock tower bushings, and shock tower bars?

I'm not at all familiar with Skunkworks springs for the 3G (and honestly had no idea they were available) so I don't know their spring rates. But I can guess they're similar to most all other springs out there for our cars. Much stiffer up front and a good bit stiffer out back. ...either way, there is only one aftermarket spring (and only the back) that I would consider using the GR-2's on, and that's Eibach/H&R. The GR-2's are (at best) about 20% stiffer than oem, however KYB markets them as oem replacements. They do this because they figure the slight bump in stiffness could help make up for the fatigue on the rest of the suspension (ie. bushings & ball joints) and the customer would feel a more noticeable improvement.

Anyway, if you haven't done so already I'd swap out the lower control arm bushings (or just the whole damn arm) and make sure your ball joints are all good and stiff with no slop in the joint. (A very important one is that damn upper rear because it's notorious to separating if you dogleg the car hard.)

So you mention BMW, Supra, and RX. All RWD's. For those yeah you do want to stiffen up the front and keep the ass pretty loose to keep traction up front. For this new hatchie, because it's FWD you have to think completely opposite. To loosen up the ass you'll need to stiffen up the suspension. ...and keep the front much softer.

As a test would you be willing to grab the oem front springs and hacksaw a few coils off them to get them to about the same ride height as the back on the Skunks? This will soften up the front a bit and maybe keep that inside tire a little more planted so you don't get as much spin.

Also, go grab that Vigor rear anti-sway bar, or spring (no pun intended) for the SusTech rear bar. Keeping the weight shift and lean on the rear to a minimum should also keep that inside front from lifting so much. ...but beware that will make the car much more ass-happy. Now in that hairpin you should stick much better because on weight transfer the ass will just want to come around. A little throttle play and you'll just pivot on your inside front and can nail it on exit.

Another cheap cheap upgrade would be to find a set of 14" wheels/tires from a Civic (1992+) as they take the same tire size as us, and it'll get you a bunch less sidewall to roll onto. Until then, lower the pressure in the front a bit, but raise it in the rear.

Sorry for the book, but if you do try any or all of those, report back with your findings. I'm really interested. In theory this will work, and I have every intention of putting all those 'theories' through their paces on my car, but sadly she's no-where near ready to even leave the driveway.

[Civic Accord Honda]

odd about lowering the front and raiseing the front ^ on my civic it ran best in the canyon with 40psi up front and 28 in back... i meen it would HUG the turns even passed a couple bmws and an audi ... how ever it also had no rear sway bar.. tiny front sway bar..blown shocks and worn bushings ....

[scars_of_carma]

ok, now let's talk suspension....

1. I'm very happy to see an experienced HDPE guy realize the fun that this chassis really is.

That's true... I will never look at an Accords the same way again lol

2. Yes, the seats do leave quite a bit to be desired, but considering they were selected for their comfort and not lateral G 'stay-put', they serve their intended purpose pretty well. For a dirt cheap 'upgrade' I'd look into snagging a seat from an 88-89 DX coupe. For some reason I find they have better, stiffer, bolsters which help quite a bit. Or you could always go the cheap ebay route, but they're not certified. (dammit).

My BMW snapped its timing-belt as I was leaving town to go pick up a used racing seat lol... if only it had snapped after I got back! gah...

3. Steering wheel and steering rack ratio are very good fits for the car, but a slightly smaller wheel could benefit you and get the wheel a tiny bit closer.

I did manage to go pick up a used suede Sparco steering wheel with the BMW before it broke-down. Where can I find a hub for it???

4. Clutch... ...remember this is a mechanical clutch (ie. no hydro) so you can just take out all slack in the cable by tightening up the adjustment nut on the tranny end of the cable and that should pick up the pedal engagement a bit. Sorta out of luck on the throttle unless you want to start screwing with the pivot point on the pedal itself.

I am gonna make a project out of modifying the pedals

5. Now let's talk turkey. Can we get full disclosure on not just your spring setup, but shocks, anti-sway bars, endlink bushings on said anti-sway bars, control arm bushings, shock tower bushings, and shock tower bars?

Everything but the springs and front shocks are stock. I haven't even started to shop for aftermarket parts for this car I figured there is little to nothing available. The stock bushings aren't that bad I've seen worse... I did lubricate the subframe bushings for the swaybar and replaced the endlink bushings with some newer ones and tightened the shit out of em.

My car would really benefit from a nice strut-tower brace considering how much sheetmetal I had to cut out from the front end lol.

I'm not at all familiar with Skunkworks springs for the 3G (and honestly had no idea they were available) so I don't know their spring rates. But I can guess they're similar to most all other springs out there for our cars. Much stiffer up front and a good bit stiffer out back. ...either way, there is only one aftermarket spring (and only the back) that I would consider using the GR-2's on, and that's Eibach/H&R. The GR-2's are (at best) about 20% stiffer than oem, however KYB markets them as oem replacements. They do this because they figure the slight bump in stiffness could help make up for the fatigue on the rest of the suspension (ie. bushings & ball joints) and the customer would feel a more noticeable improvement.

I dunno what these Skunkworks springs were made for honestly but I figured the balance for most FWD's is about the same and the accords are heavier then other hondas anyway so I didn't think they would be this stiff lol.

Remember the GR2's I mounted were made for a legend with a heavier V6 up front so they are much stiffer then a 4cyl accord shock would be. That's why I figured they would be a better match for these springs.

I'm sure a set of springs actually designed for this era Accord would perform better all-around and the germans and the swiss certainly do make good springs.

Anyway, if you haven't done so already I'd swap out the lower control arm bushings (or just the whole damn arm) and make sure your ball joints are all good and stiff with no slop in the joint. (A very important one is that damn upper rear because it's notorious to separating if you dogleg the car hard.)

The balljoints are currently ok I checked em but I don't expect them to last the boots are all dried-out and torn. I just packed em with grease and wrapped a latex glove around em in the meantime lol.

So you mention BMW, Supra, and RX. All RWD's. For those yeah you do want to stiffen up the front and keep the ass pretty loose to keep traction up front. For this new hatchie, because it's FWD you have to think completely opposite. To loosen up the ass you'll need to stiffen up the suspension. ...and keep the front much softer..

As a test would you be willing to grab the oem front springs and hacksaw a few coils off them to get them to about the same ride height as the back on the Skunks? This will soften up the front a bit and maybe keep that inside tire a little more planted so you don't get as much spin..

Sure I can try that good idea. Perhaps the stiffer shocks will compensate for the missing coils?

Also, go grab that Vigor rear anti-sway bar, or spring (no pun intended) for the SusTech rear bar. Keeping the weight shift and lean on the rear to a minimum should also keep that inside front from lifting so much. ...but beware that will make the car much more ass-happy. Now in that hairpin you should stick much better because on weight transfer the ass will just want to come around. A little throttle play and you'll just pivot on your inside front and can nail it on exit..

*nods* the rear swaybar on the Acura didn't appear to be thicker at first glace otherwise I would have grabbed it too. I will go back and measure it though to make sure.

Another cheap cheap upgrade would be to find a set of 14" wheels/tires from a Civic (1992+) as they take the same tire size as us, and it'll get you a bunch less sidewall to roll onto. Until then, lower the pressure in the front a bit, but raise it in the rear..

Heh, apparently my tire pressure is at like 45+psi! ...that explains a lot. *face-palm* The last time I added air to the tires was when it was on the trailer. I used an air compressor but it didn't have a gauge so I just filled it up till they were rock-hard. I knew I wouldn't be driving it for weeks and the tires are so old I figured lots of pressure would leak out before it was rolling again. Since then I haven't checked the air pressure till today lol.

Sorry for the book, but if you do try any or all of those, report back with your findings. I'm really interested. In theory this will work, and I have every intention of putting all those 'theories' through their paces on my car, but sadly she's no-where near ready to even leave the driveway.

No worries I appreciate the ideas and feedback. If they work out I will make sure to give you credit! It's nice to have a plan now I know what to grab next time I am out collecting parts.

odd about lowering the front and raiseing the front ^ on my civic it ran best in the canyon with 40psi up front and 28 in back... i meen it would HUG the turns even passed a couple bmws and an audi ... how ever it also had no rear sway bar.. tiny front sway bar..blown shocks and worn bushings ....

What size/type tires were you running? I'm actually surprised these little 185's grip at all... I always ran a 225 series on my other cars.

Honestly the more I think about setup the more indecisive I get. I am (apparently) the only touge-fan in my area and the only place I get to compete is the auto-x or the track. I guess what I want is a compromise somewhere in-between that makes the touge doable but is also competitive where I get to compete.

[scars_of_carma]

Guestimating with springs and shocks is frustrating. I think its funny I had much more success putting Honda springs on a BMW then a Honda I am currently trying to find some sort of article examining dampening vs. spring rate in more detail.

Shocks convert mechanical energy into heat energy right? So putting too much stress on a shock probably overheats it. Ever notice how old shocks have burn-marks on the piston sometimes? When shock oil overheats it probably leaks through the piston-seal. When oil escapes the shock becomes less efficient in absorbing heat. Everytime oil escapes it also increases the piston speed and travel within the shock body which reduces its dampening effect. (The progression of shock failure probably increases exponentially once its been overheated.) Eventually the dampening valve will be completely overloaded and then its game over. The dampening valve itself will fail and the shock piston will bottom out inside the strut housing making a horrible tinging-sound.

Obviously this overheating effect can happen both in the compression stage or in the rebound stage. I dunno if pushing or pulling on a shock is worse either way... but it seems logical to think that there is an ideal dampening rate for a particular spring and varying from that is just gonna kill your shocks. Adjustable shocks were obviously made so you can achieve this harmony with a variety of different aftermarket springs but you have to wonder how those settings compare to the stock dampening rate?

For instance, is setting "1" supposed to be equal to stock dampening or is setting "4" supposed to be equal to stock dampening? I dunno why anyone would want a dampening setting weaker then stock because why would you ever put weaker springs on a car???

Even if you use stock springs and reduce the dampening below stock that isn't gonna make the springs any softer it'll just increase the rate of spring travel to the point where the springs are no longer working within the range they were designed for ruining your handling and your springs at the same time. Also it seems like using an adjustable shock to increase the resistance of the shock without increasing the spring stiffness is just gonna overheat the shock and ruin it.

The only shock I can think of that could actually change the dampening rate of a spring while also preventing overheating are those magnetic-shocks with the particles inside. The valves in those shocks actually change the flow-rate of the valve based on the strength of the magnetic field in milliseconds! Therefor you can always change resistance to piston travel without actually putting stress on the valve. Either the oil is allowed to flow quickly through the valve or it isn't. In other words, that shock can change dampening/rebound rates independently without changing the actual volume of oil inside. If you time that right you can probably prevent or at least significantly reduce overheating.

Remote-resevoir shocks probably work on another concept that says if you give the oil inside the shock-housing an option to leave the housing at a measured rate you can change the dampening rate without overstressing the valves and overheating the oil.

I have no idea how coilovers work better then manually adjustable shocks w/adjustable springs btw... That's another thing I'll have to read up on...

Oh, and I just went on another run with lower tire pressures. Much better! ...but the car is still too stiff for certain sections. I think maybe these current settings balance out with stock... meaning that the stock setting will handle better in certain sections and the current setting will handle better in others. In other words it is not an improvement overall on my home course but it should be an improvement at the track or some other form of competition on smoother/flatter tarmac.

[Civic Accord Honda]

i was rocking 165/70/13 ROFL..... i swapped them for 195/60/14(ran about the same psi) which was perfect for that car imo... about 205/50/15 is perfect for the 3gee.. but u can go up to 225 i believe .

[Rendon LX-i]

i love the 205/50/15. Just rides great.