Tdurr's round two!

[Tdurr]

I might take you up on that, but I probably will buy another poly mount to replace the broken one this week.
Im sure the quicker I get one the better this all will be.

[89T]

When you attached the front mount did you take into account the traction bar sits lower than the the stock cross member.

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[89T]

I cant remember, but the vc should tilt forward about 11 degrees.
Can any one confirm? It could be the reason you are breaking axles.
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[Tdurr]

When you attached the front mount did you take into account the traction bar sits lower than the the stock cross member.

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yes we sure did. it wouldn't have bolted up if I even tried because there was a solid 2 inch gap. but I got a new rear mount and used axle from pete(thanks again man!) and hopefully will be able to get this thing to the shop to correct the front mount.

[89T]

I cant remember, but the vc should tilt forward about 11 degrees.
Can any one confirm? It could be the reason you are breaking axles.
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This

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[JohnBoy]

since you have a different front crossmember make you front mount adjustable to correct it.

[Tdurr]

I remember, but the vc should tilt forward about 11 degrees.
Can any one confirm? It could be the reason you are breaking axles.
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Wow, I didnt see that at all. But yea ill deff take that into account.

since you have a different front crossmember make you front mount adjustable to correct it.

That is a very real possibility. I might hit up explicit speed and get one from them.

But I did find out that the Rear mount only had 1 bolt going going into the block, & it was loose. The 2 for the tranny were gone. I think that was a big factor in breaking the axels. Got them replaced anx loctite-ed. At the shop now getting the front mount fine tuned for now

[Tdurr]

ill leave u with this.





just a test run to see how the colors i ordered would come out.

[Dr_Snooz]

LOL. Looks like pixie dust on the toaster handle.

[Tdurr]

^^ damint! why do u guys always point out the weirdest things! lol

[2oodoor]

Lmao





Lookin good

[gfrg88]

Pixie dust!!

[89T]

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[Dr_Snooz]

Uh oh. The feeding frenzy has begun. LOL

[Tdurr]

i hate yall lol.

ANYWAYS back to car stuff. I picked up a backup car the other day.






its gonna stay untouched for a while, pretty much once the accord is boosted and tuned ill start tinkering on the Corona. Oh yea its a 1980 Toyota Corona Luxury Edition thats a 5 speed. pretty sweet little car.

[Dr_Snooz]

The Toyo looks like it could be a lot of fun. Nice score!

[gfrg88]

Nice score on the Corona!

[Tdurr]

Yea I actually picked it up from the same guy/shop I sold my fc to a few yrs ago. Once I get at a solid point with the 3g ill spend money on making the corona fun.

[Tdurr]

Did something long overdue to the accord today, I finally got to putting this on the car.




I ran into to typical (but always unusual) problems. First I found out that my prop valve is leaking -_- my resivor is pretty damn low. Secondly found my driver side caliper was missing a bolt. Idk how long that was gone. I also was having trouble getting the rubber spring perch on the tophat, but I ended making it work. Then I had problems with the strut rod being too short/poly bushings were too tall, so had to use the slightly dry rotting d2 ones. I think I will be able to shave them down via deli slicer (lol) but other than that I got them on. Coilovers are now preloaded, and wheel comes off the ground with no "hangtime".
Here are a few pics.











I didn find a upper balljoit that is going bad so now I gotta get some lude uppers.

[Dr_Snooz]

I had a leaking prop valve too. ecogabriel sent me some of his special EPDM orings to fix it, but it still leaked. I went online and learned that you can also use those green A/C orings for brake fluid applications. I put a slightly oversized one in and it's doing fine now. I also bled the brakes with canola oil and it seems to work great. It's a little viscous though, so next time I'll be using soy oil.

[Hazwan]

Mine is leaking near the weep hole. It wasn't that bad that the fluid is noticeably low or anything but I've sort of fixed it temporarily with an epoxy plugging the hole and its been holding up fine so far lol

[gfrg88]

Did something long overdue to the accord today, I finally got to putting this on the car.




I ran into to typical (but always unusual) problems. First I found out that my prop valve is leaking -_- my resivor is pretty damn low. Secondly found my driver side caliper was missing a bolt. Idk how long that was gone. I also was having trouble getting the rubber spring perch on the tophat, but I ended making it work. Then I had problems with the strut rod being too short/poly bushings were too tall, so had to use the slightly dry rotting d2 ones. I think I will be able to shave them down via deli slicer (lol) but other than that I got them on. Coilovers are now preloaded, and wheel comes off the ground with no "hangtime".
Here are a few pics.











I didn find a upper balljoit that is going bad so now I gotta get some lude uppers.

I've got a set of lude arms if you need them...

[Tdurr]

^^^ how much for them?

& you used canola oil in ur brake system? ?? Weird.

[Dr_Snooz]

Yup. Works great. It has the same boiling point as DOT 3, doesn't absorb moisture from the air and is $8/gal. vs. $8/qt. for DOT 3. And I can throw it down the drain instead of transporting it in my trunk to the parts store giving it the opportunity to spill and make a gargantuan mess, like it did a few months ago (gawd what a mess it was). If it spills on the ground, I don't need to call a hazmat crew out. My guess is that all my seals are going to last a lot longer too. It meets my needs far better than regular brake fluid.

[Tdurr]

Well, thats creative. I try to use dot 4 fliud. And if I start to track the car its gonna get fancy dot 4 fluid for racecars.

But here's a random photo of two of my homeboys cars at a shop.